jratuszn

I'm renovating an old '70s Pay n' Pak hull. The original hardware was a Veco 19, still with good compression after a thorough cleanout job. Unfortunately, the strut was bent pretty badly during it's stint in the attic, and to get it out I had to cut the driveshaft, as the set screws on the u-joint were stripped. I can get a new shaft and a serviceable strut no prob, but I am having a hard time finding a replacement 3/16" u-joint. I only need the male end, but will take what can get. All I've been able to find so far are cable collets and cheapie plastic u-joints for electrics. I've even looked a McMaster, but none of their u-joints are rated for a high enough rpm.

I'd appreciate any suggestions

Thanks,

-J

Spetz

You can buy universal shafts etc but the ones that are designed to fit this kind of stuff seem brittle... also for electric boats

Can you make the connection solid?
Pics would help

f16man

Convert it to flex drive so you can get parts in the future and have far less problems.

Sean Bowf

Ditto... Convert it to a newer type flex setup.

Sean

jratuszn

I really don't want to replace with a flex drive. I'll drill out the existing fitting and re-tap before I would even consider it. This is a renovation of my dad's old boat as a birthday present for him, and I'd like to keep as much of the original quality of the boat as I can. Cutting into the hull to remove the existing stuffing box and replacing it with a flex drive is a last option for me.

I've added a pic of the existing hardware. I am still hoping to find a bolt-on replacement, but if not I'll try to remove the old set screws and go from there.

Isn't there anybody out there who still runs a straight shaft on their nitro's? What makes flex drives so advantageous? It seems like they would have alot more inherent friction than a properly set-up straight drive.

Thanks,

-J

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Dreamin Hemi

Most of the hobby grade boats I know of are using flex cables. Ease of installation and reliability are why they are so popular. Plus they can handle gobs of power over the straight system with that joint I see there. I've busted many joints like yours with the 1/8 scale trucks I've had...but forces are different I suppose. I have to back up the suggestion of flex...

ormer

i still run nitros on solid shafts and i get all my bits from a uk shop [link=http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/hdwrrubbersetc.htm]hardwars parts and available from him[/link]

glennb2006

You can get them here too, Ian will ship worldwide if you give hime a buzz.

http://www.iansboats.co.uk/

Glenn

tarsier33

My Feedback: (12)

Try Octura models, Inc. Phone 847 674 7351

f16man

Is it a dumas set up? they still sell that old stuff and why can"t you run a flex in your existing thru hull tube, you may need to run a teflon liner for good clearance.

jratuszn

Thanks for the links guys- I'll give some of those couplers a try. The engine position is in line with the shaft, I really only want to replace with a u joint/ flexible coupler vs a rigid coupling to give some leeway for any misalignment that is present that I can't see, or that occurs with engine vibration. Plus it's not going to be run very hard, just sport, so I'm not too worried about HP losses to the coupler.

The existing stuffing tube only runs for a short distance through the hull exit - not the full distance between the flywheel and the strut. I'd be worried about the cable coiling/whipping without more support than the current setup can provide. In addition, it has no significant clearance around the shaft to tuck in a liner. I'd have to go with a much smaller flex cable.

Thanks for all the advice,


-J

Dan S

J-,

from your last post "The existing stuffing tube only runs for a short distance through the hull exit"

this is exactly what you want from a stuffing box, what you need to had is a stuffing tube that will start from the strut, up the stuffing box and stops 1" or less from the collet.
depending of the ID of the existing stuffing box it may or may not need to be replaced.

whatever you decide, I understand you wanting to keep the setup as per the Era it was built but maybe your Father stopped using the boat due to that same porblem.

Dan.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Octura still carries all its universal joints. Dumas only carries its 1/2A size now, but they did have a couple sizes.

I'll post the catalog pages. The descriptions might be a bit confusing because they refer back and forth with their other part numbers, and you dont have the whole catalog. The best thing is to give them a call, and they are good at matching up what you have over the phone. The odds are what is on there now is an Octura.

jratuszn

Hey Guys-

I really appreciate all of the help and advice. I'm going to give octura a call in the AM - it sounds like they have exactly what I need. Just starting my job (July 1 - avoid hospitals if you're wise) but I'll trudge through this project as well as I can. I'll post some pics when I finally have it all together.

Thanks again,

-J

MiniMental

http://modelmarinesupplies.co.uk/sho...fe9340e72f08da

what about that? its in UK but should be able to post to usa

Hope this helps

Regards
Aidan

f16man

You are just gonna hurt yourself running junk hardware like that, I really dont see the nostalgia in what drives the prop.

MiniMental

F16... he wants the boat in its original condition... if you restore a 1935 ford you dont put a 2001 Zetec engine in it because its more reliable ..

f16man

No you put a small block chevy in it [OLD FORDS NEVER DIE THEY JUST GET CHEVYIZED]

dannyual777

J, I may have what you're looking for. If I do, I'll send it to you free since I'm never going to use it. I'm sending you a PM.

Danny

matt420

with you on that F16 man , only one problem with fords and they circled it !!!!

MiniMental

ok bad example.. but u get the idea..

d-lo

i'm with you on this one, i think keeping it 'stock' is a fine idea, sure it might not be as strong, but so what. i'm sure it will be plenty strong for what you are doing, how often, and be original to boot..... as long as it's set up right, shouldn't be an issue, plenty of shaft driven stuff out there.........

if you come up blank on the new joint, since you have nothing to lose, you could send the old one my way, i have access to a full machine shop, and have done all kinds of mod work on the small scale. i'm sure i could get those screws out safely, and get some new ones in there for ya. (free labor of course, just a little $$ to ship both ways....)

i would be glad to help you out to get your dads present to him......


davey