krproton

Hey Dave,

about the "windex" technique, I discovered it my self just about a year ago, but I've found many (like your self) already knew about this and had been doing it for some time. I knew they applied vinyl graphics to cars and such like this, so I started using it for stick-on decals and it works fabulously. Not only does it allow perfect positioning, it allows you to squeegee out all the air bubbles. And as you already know it works great for iron-on coverings too.

Yes, it would be good for ARF production, but I'm pretty sure it would make them longer to complete. Also, I must say, I don't know how they do it, but when it comes to putting a layer of MonoKote over another, all the ARFs I've looked at this is one thing they can somehow do better than I (I mean, if I were putting down a top layer over a base "dry" vs. them doing it in ARF production - now if I apply trim colors wet, there's no comparison).

Tell us about your Cap when you get her airborne.

Thanks.

Tim

P.S. Thanks "Super"

krproton

Okay, this is gettin' stupid.

Time for a progress report...

krproton

Okay, before mounting the horizontal, cut the covering from the elevator servo mounts. Oh, no. You don't just cut the covering along the edges of the opening...that's not how I roll.

First, use a straightedge to cut the covering about 1/8" inside the edges of the servo cutout. Then, slit the covering up to the corners and use a trim iron to seal the covering down inside. This makes for a more finished appearance and keeps window cleaner and what not from getting under the covering when you are cleaning your model to get a photo with the trophy girl after winning T.O.C.

Hmm, what's next...Oh yea, cover the stab and glue it in. First get everything together. Cut a bunch of small balsa sticks to be used for wiping away epoxy. A piece of MonoKote backing is good to have laying on your workbench for setting down your epoxy mixing stick and whatever else you get epoxy on. Finally, lay a few paper towel squares on top of each other and cut them into smaller squares for cleanup (the white bottle has denatured alcohol inside for epoxy cleanup with the squares).

After previously centering the stab and removing the covering (or centering and marking it previously and covering 1/32" past the lines you marked noting the fuse), slide the stab into position. Slide it over to one side a bit, add epoxy to the top and bottom of that side, then use a ruler or something as a spatula to work the epoxy into the joint. Slide the stab over the other way and do the same thing.

Center the stab and use the balsa sticks to wipe away excess epoxy. As the epoxy is hardening, use the paper towel squared dampened with the alcohol for cleanup.

Go have your step-daughter make you crapes while the epoxy is hardening.

Got the elevators covered too.

Laters...

av8tr

My Feedback: (37)

Looking good Tim!!

I look forward to hearing your thoughts on the flight performance of the Edge compared to your Extra. Especially since your powering them both with DL's.

Tim T.

krproton

Hey Tim, nice to talk to you again. You flying the Extra at all?

Okay, this is getting stupid. It's almost 1:00 AM and I took the day off work today (where I work on models!) to work on my own model! If you think I'm making good progress, it's not that I'm fast, I'm just working virtually non-stop. Though I did get to take my step-daughter on my motorcycle out for lunch today!

Well, had to take the DL off my Extra because my new one on order isn't here yet - hated to do that! I'll post details and more photos later, but you can see what I had to do to get the Slimline Pitts to fit. Got the cowl mounted and sanded ready for primer tomorrow - wheel pants too (they look shiny in the photos, but they're not). Got the wing and ailerons covered and hinged too.

I gotta get some sleep.

See ya!

Tim

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Good to know I'm not the only one who stays up all night working on models. I'll have to show your post to my wife to prove I really am normal.

av8tr

My Feedback: (37)

Yeap, got the Fuji back and it's running great.

Nice work on the motor box mod for the muffler. Looks very clean and professional. But really.....taking time off of work to work on an airplane? Ingenious!!!

Tim T.

sevans16

That is some nice covering work Tim!!
What size stand-offs do you have on your engine? I have a DA with slimline pitts on the GP Sukhoi with 3" stand offs and I did not have to cut into the firewall.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

He has the standard 2.75" that come with the DL-50. I think the reason for the cutting is because of the design of the engine box on the Edge, it comes down much lower than most do.

krproton

...what he said

krproton

Okay, got the cowl (and wheel pants) primed tonight. Got the elevator, rudder and aileron servos mounted and all the pushrods hooked up. Going for "3D" throws, so I have the AFR's cranked (to 140%) so I don't have to go too far in on the control horns or too far out on the servos. Then, on "normal" rates my dual rates are an acceptable 80% or so.

Look at the 4-40 (.095" ) pushrod. I use a cutoff wheel to grind small "notches" in the end for the silver solder to grab. Of course, pushrod ends are also cleaned with denatured alcohol and scuffed with sandpaper. Using a single Hobbico CS-170 servo for the rudder (same setup as in my Extra). Going 6 volts (NiMh).

Oh yea, made a cowl ring for mounting the cowl. Made from two layers of 1/8" lite-ply. Bolts to F-1 with six 4-40 socket-head cap screws.

More tomorrow.

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Looks like it was another late night. Good progress Tim.

Salty25

My Feedback: (9)

I have seen other pics of cowls mounted this way. How time consuming is it to get the alignment right for the ring inside the cowl? I take it you use epoxy to glue it in also.

I have two Edges and they are a handful to fly. I much preferred theCAP I had, but lost it when a wing folded during an inverted flight.

It is looking really good so far.

krproton

Hi Salty.

It's definitely more time-consuming to mount the cowl this way than just by screwing it on. But the cowl is much more secure and looks better and stays looking better as long as the model lasts.

The way I do it is first mount the cowl ring to the fuselage (the front former - F1) with 4-40 screws and blind nuts on the back of F1. Then, with the engine mounted and your spinner handy, find a way to fasten the cowl to the fuselage that will hold it in position. What I do is hook about four or five #64 rubber bands together to make one long rubber band and place it over the back of the cowl where the cowl ring is. This "clamps" the cowl in position but allows you to align the cowl with the spinner. Then I turn the model upside-down and use medium CA to glue the cowl to the ring wherever I can reach. I usually drip three or four drops of medium CA down to the top of the cowl. This is good enough to tack the cowl to the ring. Then, using your home made extended ball end wrench, remove the bolts holding the cowl ring to the fuselage and take off the cowl. Securely glue the ring to the cowl with more CA. I've found that CA sticks to the fiberglass the cowls are made of better than epoxy.

krproton

Well, another late one!

So, if you want your wheel pants to last a long time, don't fly your model, or do what I do - reinforce the wheel openings with Dave Brown carbon fiber tape;

Cut several strips - I cut eight because I need one strip for each side of each opening, but the Dave Brown strands are not very thick, so I doubled them up. Working over MonoKote backing (or a leftover plastic bag) taped to your workbench, pour a bead of epoxy over each strand. Place the second one on top, then work the epoxy into the fibers with an epoxy brush. Coat the inside of the wheel pants with epoxy where the strands will go, then (this gets messy) place the strands into position. Dip your finger in denatured alcohol and work the strands into position smoothing them out as you go. Hint: If you've never attempted this process before, do each pant with separate batches of epoxy - even with 30-minute epoxy you can run out of working time pretty fast.

Okay, what else; Oh yea, got the frame painted white on my canopy today - had to thin (reduce) the heck out of the paint to get it to flow out of my airbrush. Also got the white on the cowl which will be the color of the "AUDI" logo. Hope to get the black on tomorrow (and get the landing gear and wheel pants painted black as well).

Oh yea, my Pete's 4" carbon spinner showed up, but it's actually 4-1/4". Gotta send that back. Also, got the location of the ignition module figured out (but not permanently mounted yet - just test position).

Okay, gotta get to sleep.

Tim

maddog 71

Hey there Tim she's lookin real good! Chandy got with me today she is going to go out to the hanger and get me some more Photos to look at .You asked me when I was going to start the project well it will need to wait till this winter so I can get time to do all the covering and painting still doing research on her plane at the moment But I will stay in touch and watch your progress and watch the modification that you do! talk at ya later! MADDOG

krproton

Hey, that's cool MADDOG! I've never seen any of these kinds of planes in-person - let alone meet the pilot!

Well, here's what I have for today;

Got the black painted - on the main landing gear, wheel pants and cowl. The pants and gear shouldn't need a clear coat, but the cowl will as I have to smooth out the hard line from masking between the black and the white "AUDI" logo. If the paint dries enough overnight, I'll wet sand with 600-grit tomorrow and clear.

Did some work on the cockpit tonight. Got the pilot mounted. Had to cut off 1/4" from the pilot's base. Then custom-cut and glued in the ply base with a doubler and two blind nuts inside. Then another doubler on the inside of the cockpit floor and screwed in with 4-40 screws and threadlocker.

Decided to do an anti-glair. Wanted to flat black, but afraid it would get too hot and lift or wrinkle, and I'm going to permanently glue on the canopy so it won't be possible to take out any wrinkles later, so I made the anti-glair flat gray.

First, use a ballpoint pen to trace around the canopy. Then, use a sharp, new #11 blade to cut the covering 1/8" inside the line. Peel off the white, then use it as a template for cutting out the anti-glair. Use 3M 75 spray adhesive to adhere the top of the white to the bottom of the gray (that has the backing on). Cut the gray 1/16" around the white, then iron into position.

Got my propeller today - gotta go 3-blade on this one! Of course, now I have my prop, but can't use the spinner 'cause like I said yesterday the Pete's is actually 4-1/4", not 4". Ordered a Mejzlik spinner from DA today.

Also, pic of my new radio tray customized for my throttle servo, Rx, and Rx battery.

Finally, there was talk of mounting the fuel tank farther aft. Well, here's how I'm going to mount mine. It'll have to be on its side to clear the bottom of the wing, but that won't be a problem. Have to make a new tank mount tray.

Mmm, that's all I can think of for now. Going to get to bed "early" tonight - 11:00.

Hopefully clear coat on the cowl tomorrow.

Good night.

Tim

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

Tim did you make the Audi decals yourself? If so how do you get such perfect cuts?

PAPE

Hi Tim nice build, I see your using the futaba 2.4, I have the same receiver and just wanted to see out of curiosity how would you mount the antenas inside the fuse. Please once you mount it take a pic.

thank

Pape

krproton

Hi again Super.

What I did was do a google image search for "Audi." A bunch of logos came up and I brought that into AutoCAD on my computer at home. Then I can draw around the image, delete it and have the line drawings I need. Then I took the file over to my buddie's house who cut them for me on a miniature vinyl cutter (Stika I believe). He's into jets, so he has to paint everything and has everything needed. So the graphics were cut from special "paint mask" material.

The cuts aren't so perfect. After spraying the black and peeling off the paint mask, there are small imperfections along some of the edges where the paint pulled over the edges. That is cleaned up with a razor blade and a balsa stick with 600-grit sandpaper glued to the edge after the paint dries. (That's what I was doing this morning!)

krproton

I'll do it the same way as I did in my Extra...

I cut pieces from one of those small tubes from like a spray can of compressed air and mount the tubes wherever I want the antennas to go. Usually, the antennas just stay in the tubes, but if necessary I can add a dab of RC 56 canopy glue or RTV silicone to keep the antennas in place.

In the pic of my Extra install, you can see the one antenna going down into the tube and the other one runs up along the top edge of that former under the top fuse crutch.

I'll be certain to show photos of my Edge install too.

Thanks!

Tim

PAPE

Thanks I see I actualy do it the same way I use small tubes and run the anttenas through them. The thing is That I have lost so many planes to interference that I have been paranoid about the new 2.4 RX anttenas. Please post pics of the edge RX set up when done also.

Thanks

PAPE

PAPE

one more thing What size batteries in the extra?

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

It will blow you away when you here what they are if they are the same as his Extra. I learned I was using way more battery than I needed.

krproton

Hi PAPE.

Yea, I'm using 1,400mAh NiMh 6V. I get four flights easy before re charge, but I usually check my batteries before each flight and if I'm not in a hurry I charge "something" (Rx, ignition, Tx) between flights. I'm using 2000mAh NimH 4.8V on ignition (seems backwards that I'm using a smaller battery on Rx than ignition, but it's what was available at the time - I think you can get same size cell (1/2 sub C?) in 2,000 as my 1400).

About flying on 2.4gHz, I dunno man, that stuff is pretty damn solid. I guess you'll just have to see for your self.

Link wasn't working before. Does this work?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXMUG8&P=0

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNRH6&P=0