Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
#101
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Thread Starter
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Spit,
I called you a newbie because of the following:
1. You are new in this forum, with only (currently) 62 posts to your credit...
2. You behave like one... Stating "disadvantages" of castor oil, without bothering to show (or to look at...) the 'big picture'...
It is like someone saying he does not want a door installed in his flat, because the hinges occasionally make a screechy sound when they dry up...
Castor oil still is the definitive lubricant for methanol based fuels.
It offers better lubricity than most North American synthetic lubes (the Cooper Fuels Ester based lube, as well as Fuchs Aerosynth II/III and Aerosave and Motul Micro are its equals in that criterion, at somewhat lower percentages).
In high temperature protection, a synthetic lubricant that offers the same level as castor oil, still has not been invented and probably never will.
All currently available methanol soluble synthetic lubricants; whether from the USA, or from Europe, have a flash-point of 370-445ºF (187-229ºC) (MSDS)... Castor oil is way up there with a flash-point of 555ºF (291ºC).
If your engine is run hot enough for castor oil to gum-up and to carbon it, any and all traces of any type of synthetic lube would have evaporated, or gone up in smoke long ago. Zero extreme heat protection with synthetics!
Some synthetic oils (Klotz KL-100) are hygroscopic too (!!!), which may explain why they may not offer much corrosion protection either (bearings 'going south' rings a bell?).
So, it bothers you that castor oil makes your engine a bit dirtier, or a bit hotter running...
As I see it: So What???
It is much better if those beans are all pressed for their oil, for glow engine fuels, than if a small child eats one and dies from the ricin toxin it contains...
As to my lack of hospitality. I am never 'politically correct'...
If you come into this forum, waving such non-sense as your castor bean remarks, in several threads, you may never get to see my hospitable side...
Bruce (XJet),
Please take note of my remarks regarding synthetic lubricants, including Brian's.
I called you a newbie because of the following:
1. You are new in this forum, with only (currently) 62 posts to your credit...
2. You behave like one... Stating "disadvantages" of castor oil, without bothering to show (or to look at...) the 'big picture'...
It is like someone saying he does not want a door installed in his flat, because the hinges occasionally make a screechy sound when they dry up...
Castor oil still is the definitive lubricant for methanol based fuels.
It offers better lubricity than most North American synthetic lubes (the Cooper Fuels Ester based lube, as well as Fuchs Aerosynth II/III and Aerosave and Motul Micro are its equals in that criterion, at somewhat lower percentages).
In high temperature protection, a synthetic lubricant that offers the same level as castor oil, still has not been invented and probably never will.
All currently available methanol soluble synthetic lubricants; whether from the USA, or from Europe, have a flash-point of 370-445ºF (187-229ºC) (MSDS)... Castor oil is way up there with a flash-point of 555ºF (291ºC).
If your engine is run hot enough for castor oil to gum-up and to carbon it, any and all traces of any type of synthetic lube would have evaporated, or gone up in smoke long ago. Zero extreme heat protection with synthetics!
Some synthetic oils (Klotz KL-100) are hygroscopic too (!!!), which may explain why they may not offer much corrosion protection either (bearings 'going south' rings a bell?).
So, it bothers you that castor oil makes your engine a bit dirtier, or a bit hotter running...
As I see it: So What???
It is much better if those beans are all pressed for their oil, for glow engine fuels, than if a small child eats one and dies from the ricin toxin it contains...
As to my lack of hospitality. I am never 'politically correct'...
If you come into this forum, waving such non-sense as your castor bean remarks, in several threads, you may never get to see my hospitable side...
Bruce (XJet),
Please take note of my remarks regarding synthetic lubricants, including Brian's.
#102
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
I was expecting some positive feedback and descusion into how ANY oil could increase engine temperature.
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
At least you are appearing to have got out the right side of bed this morning and provide some slight humour in recent post.
There is an excellent post in the RCU fuels forum on, why synthetic fuel? I'm suprised you have not commented on it?
Have a read
There is an excellent post in the RCU fuels forum on, why synthetic fuel? I'm suprised you have not commented on it?
Have a read
#105
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Well in the boating world the engines simply will not stay together without castor , I belive that a marine glow engine will have the greatest loads put apon it and that speaks for itself, castor is a nessisary part of the lubrication.
#106
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
No, I am saying if you have more oil, you have less fuel in the mix, so you have to open up the needle, if you don't the engine will run hotter.
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Yes, thats what im saying. The engine will run richer to accomodate less menthonol.
With the engine running richer it will eat more fuel so shorter engine run and run hotter
With the engine running richer it will eat more fuel so shorter engine run and run hotter
#108
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Thread Starter
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Isn't the Mk1 Spit with the 3-blade prop (also the SeaFire)?
If you read way back in this forum, you will learn that the needles in a glow engine actually control... the ignition timing.
Of course this is done indirectly, but in essence this is what it is.
The amount which determines the correct advance is not the total volume of the fuel, but rather the amounts of the combustible components of the fuel.
Let's say it is only methanol and oil, you would need significantly more total fuel, to have the same amount of methanol in the cylinder for correct combustion, with 25% oil, compared with just 12% oil.
The needles will need to be opened even further, since the high-oil fuel is thicker in consistency.
-
Let's try to keep the discussion here related to actual break-in of tapered-bore engines.
OK?
If you read way back in this forum, you will learn that the needles in a glow engine actually control... the ignition timing.
Of course this is done indirectly, but in essence this is what it is.
The amount which determines the correct advance is not the total volume of the fuel, but rather the amounts of the combustible components of the fuel.
Let's say it is only methanol and oil, you would need significantly more total fuel, to have the same amount of methanol in the cylinder for correct combustion, with 25% oil, compared with just 12% oil.
The needles will need to be opened even further, since the high-oil fuel is thicker in consistency.
-
Let's try to keep the discussion here related to actual break-in of tapered-bore engines.
OK?
#109
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
I think the seafire was a much later version of the spitfire used on carriers. Not to be confused with seafury too.
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
#110
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
I looked it up in the Glossary to no avail, and I have to ask. What is ABL?
I am familiar with ABC, ABN, AAC etc but not that one. [] And could somebody update the glossary.
I am familiar with ABC, ABN, AAC etc but not that one. [] And could somebody update the glossary.
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ABL (Advanced Bimetallic Liner) uses two O.S.-developed alloys to provide a durable barrier between the brass liner and piston.
#112
Senior Member
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Cool , Thanks. Wonder what the alloys are. I have often wondered if a Titanium Dioxide coating on a piston in a brass liner would work. It works on my reloading dies.
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ORIGINAL: mk1spitfire
I think the seafire was a much later version of the spitfire used on carriers. Not to be confused with seafury too.
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Either synthetic or castor or a blend works fine in either application. For most ABC/AAC/ABL ringless engines, keeping a bit of castor blended in the fuel provides a bit of extra protection (temp capability, viscosity and film strength) should you encounter an accidental lean or careless lean run or a temperature spike. For me personally, I run about 2-3% total castor oil (15% synth plus 2-3%) in my fuel. Its not enough to cause a mess or get in the way, but I know its there. I dont mix my own fuel, and most mfgs supply it this way. No issues running full synth like the heli fuel, cool power, or any other varient in an ABC engine. Just have to be careful.
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
It will not damage the engine. If it gets that rich where it is going to over-compress and hydraulic lock, its not going to run. You are more likely to damage the engine with a starter if it is flooded. Key on the ABC engine is keeping the temperature up near operating temp during engine break-in (run-in). Beyond that, the throttle alone will create differences in cylinder temps, combustion temp and mixtures - which are acceptable.
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
You are burning fuel that is creating itself into mechanical power, sound and heat energy. The engines, running at the same energy input/output will tend to create the same heat, thus will tend to require similar cooling. Mechnical friction does not play much into the heat produced by the engine unless something is not working right.
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Typically an ABC/AAC (ringless) engine can produce more power. It is capable of higher compression when designed properly. Its big advantage is the reducded piston drag (no ring) on the remainder of the power and intake strokes. Worth noting, that the oil plays a part here in providing some of the piston seal on an ABC engine during part of the stroke.
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Both can last a very long time when properly taken care of. The piston of an AAC/ABC setup should not wear unless subjected to abuse (heat, lean, dirt, particles). The ring on a ringed engine does tend to wear, but should wear slowely if properly setup and lubricated. Typically the bearings are the first to go.
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
For most modern ABC/AAC/ABL designs, you can run it right out of the box. The piston fit is by design and machine, not by wear (like an older cast-iron piston for example). The run-in period is mainly to allow the rest of the engine rod, pin, piston bosses, bearings - to find their best fit before placing them under load and before getting the engine hot. A few cycles in temperature will do a bit of good for the piston/sleeve as well, mainly as they develop and optimize the seal for the rpm and temperatures they will see in operation. (if any wear occurs on the piston of a modern ringless engine, it is might be measured in the .0002" range - less than polishing). The run-in process allows the engine USER more of an opportunity to understand the engine, its baseline performance, rpm ranges, all under controlled conditions. So in that respect, it should not be skipped. A ring engine does require a bit of physical fit-up - but there too, most modern designs are fabricated with tolerances that are much better than 20-30 years ago.
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
They just use a different combination of materials for the liner. Its not necessarilty cheaper or less/more effective. Heat transfer is actually pretty good, and the manufacturing tolerances can be held effectively. The ABL process is still ABN, but basically they use two layers of nickle alloy. One alloy bonds well to the sleeve material but is softer (if it were paint, would be considered a primer). The second layer is extra hard nickle alloy that tends not to bond well to other metals, but bonds just well to the first layer of nickle. Resulting performance and durability seems to be very good. In a world where Chrome and the process is sometimes considered hazardous waste and dangerous material, the ABN/ABL approach is a good alternative toward meeting RoHS and other world environmental standards.
I think the seafire was a much later version of the spitfire used on carriers. Not to be confused with seafury too.
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Either synthetic or castor or a blend works fine in either application. For most ABC/AAC/ABL ringless engines, keeping a bit of castor blended in the fuel provides a bit of extra protection (temp capability, viscosity and film strength) should you encounter an accidental lean or careless lean run or a temperature spike. For me personally, I run about 2-3% total castor oil (15% synth plus 2-3%) in my fuel. Its not enough to cause a mess or get in the way, but I know its there. I dont mix my own fuel, and most mfgs supply it this way. No issues running full synth like the heli fuel, cool power, or any other varient in an ABC engine. Just have to be careful.
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
It will not damage the engine. If it gets that rich where it is going to over-compress and hydraulic lock, its not going to run. You are more likely to damage the engine with a starter if it is flooded. Key on the ABC engine is keeping the temperature up near operating temp during engine break-in (run-in). Beyond that, the throttle alone will create differences in cylinder temps, combustion temp and mixtures - which are acceptable.
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
You are burning fuel that is creating itself into mechanical power, sound and heat energy. The engines, running at the same energy input/output will tend to create the same heat, thus will tend to require similar cooling. Mechnical friction does not play much into the heat produced by the engine unless something is not working right.
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Typically an ABC/AAC (ringless) engine can produce more power. It is capable of higher compression when designed properly. Its big advantage is the reducded piston drag (no ring) on the remainder of the power and intake strokes. Worth noting, that the oil plays a part here in providing some of the piston seal on an ABC engine during part of the stroke.
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Both can last a very long time when properly taken care of. The piston of an AAC/ABC setup should not wear unless subjected to abuse (heat, lean, dirt, particles). The ring on a ringed engine does tend to wear, but should wear slowely if properly setup and lubricated. Typically the bearings are the first to go.
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
For most modern ABC/AAC/ABL designs, you can run it right out of the box. The piston fit is by design and machine, not by wear (like an older cast-iron piston for example). The run-in period is mainly to allow the rest of the engine rod, pin, piston bosses, bearings - to find their best fit before placing them under load and before getting the engine hot. A few cycles in temperature will do a bit of good for the piston/sleeve as well, mainly as they develop and optimize the seal for the rpm and temperatures they will see in operation. (if any wear occurs on the piston of a modern ringless engine, it is might be measured in the .0002" range - less than polishing). The run-in process allows the engine USER more of an opportunity to understand the engine, its baseline performance, rpm ranges, all under controlled conditions. So in that respect, it should not be skipped. A ring engine does require a bit of physical fit-up - but there too, most modern designs are fabricated with tolerances that are much better than 20-30 years ago.
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
They just use a different combination of materials for the liner. Its not necessarilty cheaper or less/more effective. Heat transfer is actually pretty good, and the manufacturing tolerances can be held effectively. The ABL process is still ABN, but basically they use two layers of nickle alloy. One alloy bonds well to the sleeve material but is softer (if it were paint, would be considered a primer). The second layer is extra hard nickle alloy that tends not to bond well to other metals, but bonds just well to the first layer of nickle. Resulting performance and durability seems to be very good. In a world where Chrome and the process is sometimes considered hazardous waste and dangerous material, the ABN/ABL approach is a good alternative toward meeting RoHS and other world environmental standards.
Bob Brassell
#114
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ABL (Advanced Bimetallic Liner) uses two O.S.-developed alloys to provide a durable barrier between the brass liner and piston.
#115
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ORIGINAL: bob27s
I hope this is helpful......
Bob Brassell
ORIGINAL: mk1spitfire
I think the seafire was a much later version of the spitfire used on carriers. Not to be confused with seafury too.
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Either synthetic or castor or a blend works fine in either application. For most ABC/AAC/ABL ringless engines, keeping a bit of castor blended in the fuel provides a bit of extra protection (temp capability, viscosity and film strength) should you encounter an accidental lean or careless lean run or a temperature spike. For me personally, I run about 2-3% total castor oil (15% synth plus 2-3%) in my fuel. Its not enough to cause a mess or get in the way, but I know its there. I dont mix my own fuel, and most mfgs supply it this way. No issues running full synth like the heli fuel, cool power, or any other varient in an ABC engine. Just have to be careful.
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
It will not damage the engine. If it gets that rich where it is going to over-compress and hydraulic lock, its not going to run. You are more likely to damage the engine with a starter if it is flooded. Key on the ABC engine is keeping the temperature up near operating temp during engine break-in (run-in). Beyond that, the throttle alone will create differences in cylinder temps, combustion temp and mixtures - which are acceptable.
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
You are burning fuel that is creating itself into mechanical power, sound and heat energy. The engines, running at the same energy input/output will tend to create the same heat, thus will tend to require similar cooling. Mechnical friction does not play much into the heat produced by the engine unless something is not working right.
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Typically an ABC/AAC (ringless) engine can produce more power. It is capable of higher compression when designed properly. Its big advantage is the reducded piston drag (no ring) on the remainder of the power and intake strokes. Worth noting, that the oil plays a part here in providing some of the piston seal on an ABC engine during part of the stroke.
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Both can last a very long time when properly taken care of. The piston of an AAC/ABC setup should not wear unless subjected to abuse (heat, lean, dirt, particles). The ring on a ringed engine does tend to wear, but should wear slowely if properly setup and lubricated. Typically the bearings are the first to go.
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
For most modern ABC/AAC/ABL designs, you can run it right out of the box. The piston fit is by design and machine, not by wear (like an older cast-iron piston for example). The run-in period is mainly to allow the rest of the engine rod, pin, piston bosses, bearings - to find their best fit before placing them under load and before getting the engine hot. A few cycles in temperature will do a bit of good for the piston/sleeve as well, mainly as they develop and optimize the seal for the rpm and temperatures they will see in operation. (if any wear occurs on the piston of a modern ringless engine, it is might be measured in the .0002" range - less than polishing). The run-in process allows the engine USER more of an opportunity to understand the engine, its baseline performance, rpm ranges, all under controlled conditions. So in that respect, it should not be skipped. A ring engine does require a bit of physical fit-up - but there too, most modern designs are fabricated with tolerances that are much better than 20-30 years ago.
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
They just use a different combination of materials for the liner. Its not necessarilty cheaper or less/more effective. Heat transfer is actually pretty good, and the manufacturing tolerances can be held effectively. The ABL process is still ABN, but basically they use two layers of nickle alloy. One alloy bonds well to the sleeve material but is softer (if it were paint, would be considered a primer). The second layer is extra hard nickle alloy that tends not to bond well to other metals, but bonds just well to the first layer of nickle. Resulting performance and durability seems to be very good. In a world where Chrome and the process is sometimes considered hazardous waste and dangerous material, the ABN/ABL approach is a good alternative toward meeting RoHS and other world environmental standards.
I think the seafire was a much later version of the spitfire used on carriers. Not to be confused with seafury too.
Quetion 1 Is one type of oil better suited to tapered engines than ring engines?
Either synthetic or castor or a blend works fine in either application. For most ABC/AAC/ABL ringless engines, keeping a bit of castor blended in the fuel provides a bit of extra protection (temp capability, viscosity and film strength) should you encounter an accidental lean or careless lean run or a temperature spike. For me personally, I run about 2-3% total castor oil (15% synth plus 2-3%) in my fuel. Its not enough to cause a mess or get in the way, but I know its there. I dont mix my own fuel, and most mfgs supply it this way. No issues running full synth like the heli fuel, cool power, or any other varient in an ABC engine. Just have to be careful.
Question 2 Is their truth that a very rich run in on abn/abc/abl engine can over compress the engine and damage it?
It will not damage the engine. If it gets that rich where it is going to over-compress and hydraulic lock, its not going to run. You are more likely to damage the engine with a starter if it is flooded. Key on the ABC engine is keeping the temperature up near operating temp during engine break-in (run-in). Beyond that, the throttle alone will create differences in cylinder temps, combustion temp and mixtures - which are acceptable.
Question 3 Which engine requires more cooling, A ring or tampered?
You are burning fuel that is creating itself into mechanical power, sound and heat energy. The engines, running at the same energy input/output will tend to create the same heat, thus will tend to require similar cooling. Mechnical friction does not play much into the heat produced by the engine unless something is not working right.
Question 4 Which engine can produce more power a ring or tampered?
Typically an ABC/AAC (ringless) engine can produce more power. It is capable of higher compression when designed properly. Its big advantage is the reducded piston drag (no ring) on the remainder of the power and intake strokes. Worth noting, that the oil plays a part here in providing some of the piston seal on an ABC engine during part of the stroke.
Question 5 Which engine has a longer life, ring or tapered?
Both can last a very long time when properly taken care of. The piston of an AAC/ABC setup should not wear unless subjected to abuse (heat, lean, dirt, particles). The ring on a ringed engine does tend to wear, but should wear slowely if properly setup and lubricated. Typically the bearings are the first to go.
Question 6 why cant you just run and go on a new tapered engine?, Has longetivity been lost?
For most modern ABC/AAC/ABL designs, you can run it right out of the box. The piston fit is by design and machine, not by wear (like an older cast-iron piston for example). The run-in period is mainly to allow the rest of the engine rod, pin, piston bosses, bearings - to find their best fit before placing them under load and before getting the engine hot. A few cycles in temperature will do a bit of good for the piston/sleeve as well, mainly as they develop and optimize the seal for the rpm and temperatures they will see in operation. (if any wear occurs on the piston of a modern ringless engine, it is might be measured in the .0002" range - less than polishing). The run-in process allows the engine USER more of an opportunity to understand the engine, its baseline performance, rpm ranges, all under controlled conditions. So in that respect, it should not be skipped. A ring engine does require a bit of physical fit-up - but there too, most modern designs are fabricated with tolerances that are much better than 20-30 years ago.
Question 7 whats so special about os ax abl liner/pisten combination?
They just use a different combination of materials for the liner. Its not necessarilty cheaper or less/more effective. Heat transfer is actually pretty good, and the manufacturing tolerances can be held effectively. The ABL process is still ABN, but basically they use two layers of nickle alloy. One alloy bonds well to the sleeve material but is softer (if it were paint, would be considered a primer). The second layer is extra hard nickle alloy that tends not to bond well to other metals, but bonds just well to the first layer of nickle. Resulting performance and durability seems to be very good. In a world where Chrome and the process is sometimes considered hazardous waste and dangerous material, the ABN/ABL approach is a good alternative toward meeting RoHS and other world environmental standards.
Bob Brassell
You are ALLWAYS helpful Bob. A truly outstanding concise infomative reply. You are a legend. Thanks
#116
Senior Member
Thread Starter
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Spit,
Bob did a pretty good job of replying to your questions...
In most things we see eye-to-eye and he's much more experience than I.
Tapered-bore (not tempered, as you wrote) describes ABC/ABN/ABL/AAC and plasma-ceramic engines.
Please read the first post in this thread to better acquaint yourself with the terms.
ABL is OS' name for Advanced Bi-metallic Liner...
It is OS 'jive' for ABN, but with a proper copper flash-coat applied to the brass, before electro-less nickel is applied to it.
It does make the nickel bond better, but still not as well as chromium (ABC).
As to engine type, currently there is little choice...
In the far past you could choose between the ringed and the ABC version of many engines.
Most of today's engines are of one type only, with tapered-bores taking most small sizes and mostly large engines having rings (not Super Tigre).
Bob did a pretty good job of replying to your questions...
In most things we see eye-to-eye and he's much more experience than I.
Tapered-bore (not tempered, as you wrote) describes ABC/ABN/ABL/AAC and plasma-ceramic engines.
Please read the first post in this thread to better acquaint yourself with the terms.
ABL is OS' name for Advanced Bi-metallic Liner...
It is OS 'jive' for ABN, but with a proper copper flash-coat applied to the brass, before electro-less nickel is applied to it.
It does make the nickel bond better, but still not as well as chromium (ABC).
As to engine type, currently there is little choice...
In the far past you could choose between the ringed and the ABC version of many engines.
Most of today's engines are of one type only, with tapered-bores taking most small sizes and mostly large engines having rings (not Super Tigre).
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Why do not car engines not use this abc/abn/abl technology? or do they
I think i wrote tampered and not tempered but should have been tapered!!!!!!!! Doh
I think i wrote tampered and not tempered but should have been tapered!!!!!!!! Doh
#119
Senior Member
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
Tapered bore technology does not lend itself to mass production well. Also tapered bore engines require upper cylinder lubrication like a weed eater therefor emissions control would be a nightmare. [] Among other reasons
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
I guess you mean full scale 4 stroke multi cylinder engines with oil sumps. These engines have an oil sump underneath the crankshaft and get their lubrication oil pump. Since you dont want to burn any oil, there are oil retaining rings after the compression rings on the piston. these help to provide a fine layer of oil film to lubricate the liner wall and wipe it off before the compression ring. A ringless design wouldnt wipe the cylinder wall.
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RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ahh that makes sense large scale applications.
Ok, would 4stroke model motors benefit from abc/abn/abl technolgy. How come they stick to rings?
Ok, would 4stroke model motors benefit from abc/abn/abl technolgy. How come they stick to rings?
#125
RE: Tapered-Bore Engine Break-in - Upgraded
ORIGINAL: mk1spitfire
Why do not car engines not use this abc/abn/abl technology? or do they
Why do not car engines not use this abc/abn/abl technology? or do they
Instead we has chrome plated pistonring in upper ring groove of all three rings in the car engines. It will last longer with chrome plated ring since there are poor lubricate in upper piston ring.