J-MICHAEL

Yeah no worries.... It was purely set as a joke.... I hardly think the MCX could lift the 28 gram Gyro....LOL... I'am more on losing weight... I've got it down to 25 grams so far, but not sure there's much more to do to lose anymore weight... I do know that shaving some off the flybar greatly increased its forward flight performance, along with losing a little more weight in the rear. Still tweaking though, but I'll put together a video as soon as I'am done. I do have an older one with the chopped flybar, but since then I've chopped more and won't go anymore as it now delivers what I want from it and don't need to sacrifice stability from doing so, as it still offers its great stability as it did stock... Right now it delivers a good flight time with it being much lighter than stock, and using my higher end lipo chargers to charge the 110 mah lipo...

Older video:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swWaYaAqgYo

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

I thought something seemed strange about it.
Nice helis. We should call you heli man

Perry3182

I just picked up a micro cx and noticed the flybar is different than any other I have seen. The ones I've seen are more like flybar paddles as opposed to the ones on mine which are cylinder shaped. Is this an "improved" flybar or is the other paddle shaped one better?

Rickochet

Horizon changed to the round flybar weights to make them easier to manufacture. Supposedly they both types fly the same.

monsterbrad

Lets see some pics of the round fly bar.
My lower gear was running out a little so I straightened that out and now it does not shake as bad.
I will just fly it for now having to much fun to mess with it.

Rickochet

There's nothing exciting about them. They weights are 1/2" long and 1/8" diameter and the flybar is 5 1/4" long.

J-MICHAEL

I had the joy last night slamming the little MCX around the tiny living room of a guest house I'am staying at here in Cali... I miss my own living room back home, but with the MCX and its size, I'am still able to fly at night and on these bad winter days... These things are so fun !



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9emrekcSD_o



Cheers,

~ Jeff

Abzauris

Man, i'm not having the luck with these small parkzone toys... my Vapor had a bad board on it, so i tried to replace it only to cause damage to the piece connecting the main beam to the wing... then i buy a blade mcx and after only a week when i apply full power the thing starts spinning counter clockwise... i called horizonhobby tech support and they said to take off the main board and send it to them... they wont let me send them the whole unit for repair on either unit... over $250 in toys that dont work... never again...

-Matt

gatornovak

Anyone have any problems with the servo motor continuing to spin when the right stick is held all the way to the right or left? Doesn't seem to affect the flight but it makes makes an awful, "Chattering" noise. The Forward/back servo stops at full stick like it should...not sure if it's a bad servo or a problem with the 5 in 1

thanks

J-MICHAEL

Not sure on that one... You may check on top of the servo casing as there is a little stopper that keeps the rod in place inside the servo casing, and it will sometimes have a tendency to slip up making the servo gear at the very bottom miss the other gear and will make that constant running sound if its not in place with the other gear if that makes sense.... Make sure there is no play up or down on the servo rod inside that case so to speak....

I've got two Vapors which are a few months old in which I got at the same time, and while one is still brand-new with a 2 minute flight, the other has over 100 flights on it and I haven't had to replace a thing on it.... Very stout crafts like the MCX's....

Vapor Flight :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q1aGPHOmSFw


I've only had my MCX for a week now, but with some tweaks and mods its a fun little heli... I've crashed it plenty with my style of flying, and haven't had to replace nothing so far. I see it following the Vapors footsteps are far as durability....


I just took the MCX outside again over the weekend, and it was even raining lightly, and it still flew just great and performs very well for such a small craft :



MCX flight :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vesKxbhXBOY



Cheers,

~ Jeff

Steve Joblin

J-MICHAEL - awesome vid of the mCX (you are lucky to have such a great backyard!) Where is the posting that describes Soloboss's mod to make the 5in1 canted? I've been monitoring the mCX threads pretty closely and this is the first I saw of this. It looks like a neat mod and I would love to get more details about it!

J-MICHAEL

I'am heading out the door to work right now, but look at the description on the You-Tube video where it says "more info" it shows where to obtain this info....


Take care,

~ Jeff

Steve Joblin

Thanks! I found it at post # 3438 at [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_6807677/mpage_138/key_/tm.htm[/link]

jrizzle

My Feedback: (16)

Installed my new MIA upgrades!! This is an awesome upgrade. The ability to move the battery forward has made forward flight a real joy! The carbon look canopy is sweet. I highly suggest this mod!!!!

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Sounds cool. I am working on a paint scheme for mine. If I could just find the time

tanasit

RE: Member Okinchi modified the swash plate for more control.

I did similar but with minor changes. As I see the contact points of the arms can be improved, so insteasd of cutting off the whole arm, I cut it off but left about 3 mm. and trimmed off the raise portion on it. Then I lightly sanded the 2 contact surfaces which were 1: the top of the left over and the bottom part of the arm that just got cut off and 2: the end of the cut off arm and the outside surface of the plate. The overlapped contact surfaces made very strong joint with super glue. Be careful not to apply too much glue or the top disk or the ball bearing may get stuck. The pictures tell all.

The test flight only required some trim off the TX and the right stick now has more authority. Now I am ready to try it outdoor.

Perry3182

Does this mod effect the initialization of the 5n1 gyro? Now the board being angled would have the same effect of the heli not being level.

J-MICHAEL

No effect of the gyro or holding its plane of levelness... But if it did pose a problem, I could counter-it with the trims on the DX-7 in which I'am using as the TX for the MCX... Canting the esc just made more sense to me to achieve in getting the linkages parallel to the board rather than sacrificing the swash in cutting the arms and extending them outward. With my type of flying, those swash arms would snap super-glued in a crash case scenario. With my angle of the esc board also it allows because of my slightly cut canopy on top, to be cooled by the rotor wash of the heli... And also because of its canting effect it pushes the board and servo gears away from the battery, as I have my skids cut more low-profile in which gives the MCX a lower stance when sitting but also allows me to keep the battery from hitting the servo gears when snugged up tight...

One thing I did to boost the power to weight ratio on these little things, and gaining more from the little motors was removing the extra spokes from the gears as Solo had suggested... I applied it, and it works great... They held there rigidness and form just fine and are not out-of-round so to speak. This reduces the weight mass of the motors to crank when operating in flight, while also reducing the weight in general to the craft...

With all my mods to date, it gives the heli much more control in flight as you have seen in the videos, and my motors don't even get warm... Much longer flight-times also in result from those mods... The heli to date now sits at 24 grams from its stock 28 gram weight...


Cheers,

~ Jeff

J-MICHAEL

here is another write up I put in another post to Soloboss who was my mentor last year when I started out with the heli's... He was inquiring on purchasing one, so I had to offer him some insight on the little MCX... so I copied it and I'll place it here also... Its about a week old now, so its a little outdated, but it does show some of the things I've done to the MCX but not all...

When I first brought my MCX home there wasn't even really a thing called forward flight for it. I'am sure maybe every MCX could be different since they are mass produced, but this just would make it even more fun to really tweak and expand its limits for its limited size and reduced capabilities... It also goes to show, you don't have to spend a lot of money or have the big expensive helicopters to still have fun in this hobby... I can have just as much fun with a $100.00 helicopter as I would with say a Trex 500 and such...

The very first thing I noticed was the swash wasn't level and fixed that... The second thing I noticed is the adjustment on the little servos showed it still had more room to advance to for more forward flight. I moved the servo arms into the middle hole on the little servo arm by the servo, and tweaked my DX-7 to achieve the maximum amount of throw possible with the servos... It seemed they were set for more backward flight than ff...

Then because I noticed the canopy was very very thin, and fragile I used small tiny pieces of scotch tape to adhere over the seams in the canopy to keep them from seperating and coming apart in case of a mishap or crash. This was done inside the canopy, and also put a little tiny piece behind all 4 little holes where the canopy support rods poke through to hold the canopy. That way they wouldn't hopefully tear through the canopy in case of a crash. This is just a measure of preventative maintenance in which I do to any thin plastic canopies like our CX2's... Makes them last much longer, but also does add a tiddy bit of weight in which for the MCX in needed a tad up front anyway to help boost the CG forward...

Now since we can't really beef up the motors for performance, I used my own ideas in which you've heard the saying, if you can't afford horespower deduct weight !...LOL.. So I needed to lose some weight, and the rear of the craft is where I was starting to help the MCX still lean toward forward flight. I shortened the boom, by just a little bit and it should help it to be more rigid and stronger from being shorter as the longer version would make it more flimsy and more likely to break in a crash, I reduced the size just a tad of the rear tail fin to lose weight there also but also thinking that if it was smaller, the wind outside or drafts inside would minimize the hit on the tail and reducing its tendency to act as a weather vane so to speak... I looked at other things from the main shaft back, and saw there was an overkill of extra wires from the lead from the esc to the battery, so I de-soldered that lead from the esc, and cut a chunk off and re-soldered it back on and now it was much more tidier and I still had plenty of room to connect it to the battery, but lost again that tiddy little bit in the back... Man, that was the smallest solder job I ever did...!...LMAO...

I took the landing gear and made them more profile by cutting a bit off those... The MCX sits a little lower now by a few millimeters... You really got to work hard to lose weight on these things I tell ya ! Every stray dog hair counts !

I also drilled a small hole on the bottom of the canopy toward the front to help assist in cooling of the esc... I didn't sacrifice durability, as the tape is securing the seams inside the canopy, and its strength has increased dramatically from that, and various stickers on the outside to assist also... Then on the very top of the canopy toward the back, I shaved off a little more of the canopy to allow the rotor wash from the MCX to act as a cooling fan so to speak, and to also assist in cooling the esc...

The esc is fastened by two small screws... I ditched one, as it still is secured fine by just one and just made sure that one is tight... The servos also have about 4 screws holding them to the esc board... I lost two on each servo, but made sure those two have one on the top right, and one on the bottom left. Still tight as a whistle... This goes a bit overboard, as some may not want to do this... Do it at your own risk... With me, when I get involved with something I tend to go all the way...LOL..

I also lubed with Tri-Flow every moving part... The flybar holder where it pivots in the head, the main gears, pinions, motor bushings, bearings, other bushings, linkages, swash... You name it... But very tiny specs of the lube. Gotta watch the excess...

I also of course (Second thing I did after centering the servos) cut the flybar shorter along with shaving the weights... I didn't take a picture of the before pic of the flybar with a caliper, but you can see what the flybar looked like from a picture in its stock form... If you look close at the weights on the flybar, there is a tiny seperation and two different little lengths of the weights on the end of each side of the flybar... The smallest section is at the very end of the flybar. That is just plastic. In my first video outside, that's all I removed from the flybar on each end... In my second video, where I was zipping around in tight quarters, that's where I had removed some from the second little set of the weights no the flybar, and those are actually metal... I shave off as you can see in the pics a tad from that... I haven't done anymore, as I didn't want to go over the deep end and do to much... It flies better now from all these mods, and I still do want to tweak more with it... Its only about 6 days old, and I still have a few more things to try...

One thing, but only after I get a few more sets of blades (they were out of the upper blades at the LHS yesterday, but did get lowers) but one other thing, and as you remember from our CX2 days is the clipped wings...LMAO.. Yes, your idea a long time ago and I remember doing a video of my CX2 with that experiment and placing it on You-Tube, but I would be curious with the MCX also... I would do 1 mm at a time to see maybe what the hek...! Or maybe running 2 of those little lipo's in series, as see if anything starts smokin' or the motors lasting only a few flights perhaps...?!... LOL...

She is down to 25 grams now from the stock 28 grams... Not sure if there's much more to do to lose anymore... I really don't think you'll ever damage the outer shaft on this MCX as it is made of CF, and is pretty similiar to Goldslingers that he came up with for the CX2 last year... The inner is the thinner one which I see getting bent possibly in time, from taking the hit and trying to support the upper blades, and flybar, with those weights on the flybar... In reducing the mass from the flybar by shaving off the weights, I had hoped it would help take a load off of one of the motors that's cranking it, and also helping the small inner shaft from possibly bending in a crash... The motors do run cooler now in mine, from what they did when I first brought the MCX home... I did note that...

I probably missed a few things, but I need to run to town, and this will give ya somewhat of an idea for your pondering mind in regards the the MCX....



Outside flight with just the plastic part cut off the flybar :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swWaYaAqgYo


Inside flight with the second part of the metal on the weights shaved off :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9emrekcSD_o


Last flight in the light rain with all the mods except the grinded spokes from the gears, and another mod I just did last night to the flybar for improved performance :

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vesKxbhXBOY



Cheers,


~ Jeff

J-MICHAEL

BTW........ I wouldn't recommend cutting the spokes on the gears down to two spokes... This is just a personal experiment and over-kill to try out to see how well they perform on a long-term basis... I do recommend though on cutting 4 out, and leaving 4 though... There just as strong with 4 as with 8... And less stress to the motors... (Pic-Below) It will give the motors a bit more power thrust to the rotors, while also providing a slight longer running time, while also helping the motors from generating heat...

~ Jeff

tanasit

I think TriFlow is too thick especially after a while it will sometime gum up. I use the oil for the ball bearing of the high speed motor for RC car.

Not sure if this question posted: why the top blades are heavier than the bottom ones (110 vs. 104 gr.)?

k-root

Thanks for the info on the E-Flite Micro CX. I was wondering if this heli can be bound to the 2.4 Ghz Walkera radio for a 5G6 micro heli.


Thanks again for the good info.

Wheelnut

My Feedback: (81)

Hey Guys,
Who can tell me which motor in the Blade CX/CX2 is the main motor?
The one that powers the inner shaft or the out shaft?
Thanks

animalnut

just got it two flights in it's awesome!

SomeJerk

I don't think you can really call one the main motor. They are identical other than pinion placement and work equally in flight.