muck76

i meant the badlands for buggy tires. I will see if i can find them later today. I know the OD is big, but the width of the tire is small and may make it ok.

HeliStyle

My Feedback: (2)

I have the 1100 and I get anywhere from 22 mins to 25 mins on one pack

Papa Jay

that is long enough to break parts

I search for the badlands too, but they're used for 1/8 buggy

HeliStyle

My Feedback: (2)

lol yeah it is, and when they go dead you will know it, it comes out of nowhere and you have no battey left, but I have had over 100 chargers on one of the packs and its still going stong

muck76

oh, you know what i thought you were looking for 1/8th scale, i forgot you were looking for sedan size rims. I had MG16 stuck in my head. I was going to use those on mine.

But you can use buggy tires on this if you really wanted. You would get the 1/10 scale adapters for the T aand then 1/8 scale adapters for 1/10 scale if you can understand that.....

I do like the tamyia tires you showed, what rims would you use?

Papa Jay

those flyboys like their batt detached when the plane crashed.
less damage than secure battery setup, imagine what happened if you crash with lipos.
You will run or just hope there is no magic smoke from your car.
I need to get rid lipo from my house, I don't feel secure playing that stuff with my son.


No muck, I will have steering clearance problems with 1/8 tires.
Tamiya 1/10 buggy rims, but I still don't know their hex size.

Maximum diameter tires that I can fit without any steering problem is about 75mm.
The front Traxxas Bandit Anaconda tires is 83mm, it will rub my roll cage a bit when the front shock fully compressed.

toymdngn

speaking of front shocks, my right front shock keeps popping off the top ball stud. is there anything i can do to stop this from happening? eventually i need to get better shocks anyways, which ones would you guys suggest that wont leak or blow in the first 5 minutes like the stock mini-baja units?

Frozen72

I'm getting 3 rtr Mini-T's from my friend for my XTM Rage that I bought for $50. One has a Big-Block motor and one a Venom FireBall.

muck76

every one i asked said the losi ones.

the only issue i have had with the stock baja shocks is the bleeder screws leaking. I think if i can seal the screw these would work fine.

Mr. Mugen

I would suggest a set of losi oil shocks and get an extra set of seals....3 extra bucks...woohoo... Then double up the seal on the bottom and your good as gold.

Kevin

muck76

what seal are you speaking of, the thread seal or the oring in the cartridge?


I looked at the front of my T last night, besides having to make a different camber rod, any reason MLST shocks could not be used on these?
I think if i picked up a long enough threaded rod, one could be bent to go around the shock. Seems i saw a plastic one on another model RC like that.

Papa Jay

Maybe he said the o ring seal one.
Muck I can fitted 16 mm shock in the front, I just don't have the shocks.
but it need to change the mounting on A arms

Mr. Mugen

It's the flat clear one on the bottom of the barrel. Not sure about MLST shocks but I did retro fit a set of KMI shocks on one of mine. Pics are a page or 2 back.

Kevin

muck76

ok, that is the cartridge to barrel seal.

Papa Jay

I still used stock dog bones, plan to upgrade to Mip cvd.
the dog bones severely bind when the shock is compressed.
How much shock travel increased by using cvd?

Mr. Mugen

Yes....the only one that leaks. The rest are fine. I have a set of 4 on every mini-t. No leaks.

Kevin

toymdngn

i've got stock dog bones with my MIP ball diff. the left side binds up really bad at about 1/2 compression. i'm hoping CVDs will take care of that...

Mr. Mugen

Well the answer to no binding is simple. Use a grinding wheel to shave some of the tips of the ball ends of the dogbones flat. The MIP diff has a nut inside the output yolk of the diff which needs room for travel.

Kevin

mini_mac

i think you upgraded out of order
cvds first, mip diff second


yes, cvds will solve your problem

Papa Jay

I've grinding my wheel outdrive about 2mm also done the flat head dog bone.
but I still have lock out, stock dog bones are too long, Mip cvd is shorter.
do the wheel rotate freely when the shock is fully compressed aka no binding?

toymdngn

yeah, i wanted the cvd's first, but after breaking 10+ stock diffs, i decided to go with the ball diff first. cvds would not have fixed my diff breaking problem, but i will upgrade to them soon. btw, i broke all those diffs on a stock mini-baja with a 60t spur gear. stock pinion.

joeyhatch11

I'm currently running the MIP Diff with stock dog bones and I beat the hell out of my Mini-T. I haven't had any issues running it this way so far. I had the Integy CVD's but after a few hard landings, the ends broke off. I think Losi makes steel ones that I'll try once the stocks go to hell. But till then, BASH ON. I have to go to the Post Office today and pick up my first 11.1v Lipo. I've only had 7.4v's and they make this thing scream, I can't wait to see what the 11.1's will do. Hahahaha

Mr. Mugen

Well depending on your esc the 11.1 may just let your smoke out.

mini_mac

I understand, I do, but part of the problem with breaking diffs (though the stockers are junk) is the lack of an adequate slipper clutch.
and it's why I tell everyone to upgrade MIP cvds & ball diff, and DD slipper all at the same time - solves a lot of headaches.

mini_mac

losi cvds are made by MIP

plan on signing up for the "frequent buyer program" once you add the 11.1