ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

I'm building a GTM DRI & I'm having trouble getting Titebond or CA to hold on a butt joint using Basswood. Is there a glue that works really well with this type of wood?. Thanks

dignlivn

Ghost,

Have you tried Epoxy ?

Bob

ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

Yes I did & it didn't hold up very well but I may give it another try. Thanks

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Try scratching up the surface

ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

Will do. Thanks

outdoorhunting

cut a "V" in one end & a "male" matching shape on the other piece of wood. Whatever glue you use ,the joint will a bunch stronger !!!

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Epoxy. I haven't had any of the wood glues or CAs work very well on the hard woods, I can understand the CA not working but I use wood glue all the time in my wood shop for big jobs. Even little pieces of hard woods like oak and walnut when making cutting boards without problems. I have small dental burrs and drill very little holes in some of the wood joints on my models so the epoxy will flow in and hold better. That has really helped hold things like hard wood servo trays.

ByLoudDesign

You could also dowel it with a hardwood dowel about 1/3 the minumum dimension of the basswood, about 1-1/2 - 2 thicknesses deep into each piece! As long as there is not twisting movement, then it is two small dowels. These will help to keep the glue joint from sheering. Make sure that all components are super clean and as Gray Beard indicated roughed up REAL good.

outdoorhunting

Yah, ByLoudDesign Definitly THE strongest joint !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

There will be a bend in it. There is a bend at about the mid-fuse point back to the tail on the Fokker DRI. Thanks everyone you are very helpful.

ByLoudDesign

Then I would seriouslly think about half lapping it for about 1-1/2 to 2 length measuring the widest side of the basswood. exopy and don't get in a hurry to use it. If you load it early if the joint dose not fail, you can still loose a lot of the joint strength as you can partically sheer the epoxy and not know it.

carlosponti

My Feedback: (1)

I am a hobbiest woodworker. are you talking butt joint to create a perpendicular joint of two hardwood sticks? if thats the case you wont get any glue that will hold up well. if you are talking two sticks with a parallel joint that will work if you actually smooth the surface as much as you can maybe down to 220 grit sand paper. what you are dealing with in the perpendicular butt joint is long grain to end grain joint which the end grain soaks up more glue than needed and robs the long grain to create a weak joint. works with balsa because the end grain and long grain are both equally as porous. I have made cutting boards with only wood glue that held together fine after i surface planed the edges to create as smooth a joint as possible. the perpendicular joints you will have to create an actual joint besides a butt joint. I would suggest a rabbet. you furrow a notch in the longest piece for the shortest piece to recess into or you can clamp the materials you are working with into their final position and insert a dowel , as someone suggested to joint it that way. you can also create gussets by using thin ply wood to brace on either side of the two pieces. also i saw someone said half lapping it that is another good suggestion.

abufletcher

Since the biggest problem with these sorts of joints on WWI fuselages is sheering off (rather than strength in a "pull apart" direction) it seems like one simple solution would be to drill 2 or 3 small "starter holes in both faces of the joint. Then either epoxy or titebond would go into the holes and when hardened help prevent the sticks from sheering off. Of course, the best solution might be to use gussets on all the joints.

What did Del do on his GTM DrI? That seems to have work out well!

ghost-RCU

My Feedback: (10)

I ended up using a 1/64 plywood brace on each side of the joint as you suggested Carlosponti & now it is holding up under stress. I thought about slotting the wood for each joint like Del did but he was also using dowel rod. I thought this would be the easiest way to remedy the problem. Thanks for the help everyone, I can't believe the number of responses I got & I just posted this question this afternoon. Thanks again.

captinjohn

Use deep slashes with a exacto knife in a criss cross pattern. The epoxy then will lock in. Use 30 min Capt,n

ByLoudDesign

If you can do this type of splice, the spice should be pointed up and down; or a top view as shown. The splice should be at least 3 widths long.

Ram Jet

I know a joining method called a "scarf joint" where you cut say a 60 degree matching bevel on the ends of say a piece of square stock and glue (epoxy) the two beveled ends together. I had to do this recently as I used a 1/2 x 1/2 x 24" pieces of basswod. I could only obtain 24" lengths and needed 34 1/2". It worked great. I think this is a technique that a-lot of carpenters use when fitting trim moulding inside a home. They do it to hide the joint as much as possible. I do it for strength. Hardwood dowel is a bullet proof method of joining two perpendicular pieces together.

Bill

RVman

+1, scarf joints at 1:8 or so.