ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
The extreme aluminum blade grips that I got from ushobbysupply work fine. I have heard that the TBE problem is most obvious when you get the aluminum swash plate and it is due to poor manufacturing. Blade grips need to be adjusted correctly to prevent this problem. I have heard of two ways to adjust them and I think one way may work for some helis and the other way may work for others.
The first way I heard of it was to adjust them so that when you turn your heli on its side the blade grips will just barely fall on their own.
The other way I heard was to adjust them so when you turn the heli on its side they just barely stay up by them selves.
These settings are very close and can make a big difference either way. So try both and see how it goes.
The first way I heard of it was to adjust them so that when you turn your heli on its side the blade grips will just barely fall on their own.
The other way I heard was to adjust them so when you turn the heli on its side they just barely stay up by them selves.
These settings are very close and can make a big difference either way. So try both and see how it goes.
#927
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
The problem with my grips seemed to be that they were stiff turning on the part that is connected to the shaft, not issues with the tightness of the blades within the grip, alghouth I never really worked out the problem so that was just my assumption. I did try them at the same tightness that I use to install the blades into the plastic grips... but now that I think of it maybe they were gripping a bit tighter than the stock plastic ones, as I remember trying to pry them apart a little bit with a small screwdriver.
I ended up just getting a couple of spare sets of the plastic grips, and I don't think I've gone through many of them yet (I crash a lot less now than I did in the early days - especially since I don't get blade strikes any more with the turbo shaft).
I ended up just getting a couple of spare sets of the plastic grips, and I don't think I've gone through many of them yet (I crash a lot less now than I did in the early days - especially since I don't get blade strikes any more with the turbo shaft).
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
ok so i did take off the Alum grips the TBE went away but now i cant keep it at a stedy hover if i left the right stick go it goes backwards at a pretty fast speed i have to hold full forward stick to keep it at a stedy hover any sugjestiong even with full trim up i also made the servo arms [Zbend thing] longer i extended them thinking if i could level out the swash it would help it did a little bit of help but not much still going backwards any help ?
Mat
Mat
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
If the swash is level but the heli is still going forward/aft, then it could be a problem with your CG. Try shifting the battery further forward in the holder, or hang the heli by a string at the top of the inner shaft and see if it leans backwards.
If this started happening after you installed and then removed a bunch of parts, including removing both shafts, my guess is that the swashplate is too high compared to where the original was. If the grips for the lower blades allow the swash plate to ride higher up the outer shaft (they are, I think the pivot point for the swash plate), then the back of the swash gets pulled down by the servos and the front tilts up to compensate. Can you compare the height of the swash plate (with respect to the ends of the servo arms) of the heli now vs. where it was before you started changing parts? (I photographed mine before doing anything to it... any pictures around so you can compare?) Lowering the swash has the same effect as lengthening the servo arms, but there should really only be one "correct" place for the swash to pivot on on the shaft.
If this started happening after you installed and then removed a bunch of parts, including removing both shafts, my guess is that the swashplate is too high compared to where the original was. If the grips for the lower blades allow the swash plate to ride higher up the outer shaft (they are, I think the pivot point for the swash plate), then the back of the swash gets pulled down by the servos and the front tilts up to compensate. Can you compare the height of the swash plate (with respect to the ends of the servo arms) of the heli now vs. where it was before you started changing parts? (I photographed mine before doing anything to it... any pictures around so you can compare?) Lowering the swash has the same effect as lengthening the servo arms, but there should really only be one "correct" place for the swash to pivot on on the shaft.
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
Hmmmm i switched out the swash back to the Stock one and it fixed the problem i will adress this issue a bit later but for right now im have fun with it cuz i havnt flown it since i broke it about 3 days after xmas =[ but shes back in the air
Mat
Mat
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
If you hold the metal swash next to the plastic one, are the ends where the servo connectors higher up with respect to the upper surface of the swash that pivots on the hard point on the shaft?
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
With respect to wiring of the lipos, I did a bit of searching around found this.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_lipo.html
If you set "Series Connections" to 2s, leave "Parallel Connections" at 1p, and select Yes for "Show Balancer wire hookup", it shows you the wiring configuration of a Lama pack.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/_lipo.html
If you set "Series Connections" to 2s, leave "Parallel Connections" at 1p, and select Yes for "Show Balancer wire hookup", it shows you the wiring configuration of a Lama pack.
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
Pavelsuc,
Sorry that noone answered you - we were dealing with someone else's issue. Is your helicopter a Lama 4? - I assume it is, so try this: Renew 8 x AA batteries in Transmitter, and SWITCH ON transmitter! Lower TRIM of throttle (just to the side of throttle stick) all the way down and centre other 3 trims on Transmitter. Plug in Heli battery. Lower throttle, if not already. Wait for 5 seconds before moving helicopter. Which lights are flashing on side of helicopter 4in1 and what colours[8D]. Thanks.
Peter
Sorry that noone answered you - we were dealing with someone else's issue. Is your helicopter a Lama 4? - I assume it is, so try this: Renew 8 x AA batteries in Transmitter, and SWITCH ON transmitter! Lower TRIM of throttle (just to the side of throttle stick) all the way down and centre other 3 trims on Transmitter. Plug in Heli battery. Lower throttle, if not already. Wait for 5 seconds before moving helicopter. Which lights are flashing on side of helicopter 4in1 and what colours[8D]. Thanks.
Peter
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
I am not sure if this is the best place to ask this question, but I am new to RC heli's and just bought the Lama V4. The transmitter is not connecting to the receiver. The little red light on the transmitter is supposed to blink for the first 3 seconds it is on, but does not blink, it just stays solid. I have tried binding and what not but have had no luck, please help me out. Thanks a lot....
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
Hey Eclipse690,
Yes - ask away here. We may ignore or just not read these pages - but will try to help any newbie we can! Try this: (you may be doing most of this now) Charge battery fully. Ensure AA batteries inside Tx (Transmitter) are OK also. Remove & reinstall crystals (they are near bottom LHS of face of Tx - behind a "holder" with the frequency printed on it. To remove just pull straight out - when reinstalling just make sure the pins are lined up and press them in all the way) as they may have been disturbed during transit. Lower throttle & THROTTLE TRIM all the way to the bottom. Center the other 3 trims. Switch on Tx. Seat battery in Lama4 & plug in. Hold heli still until red light changes to green flashing and then green solid (should take 5-6 seconds all up) - Now the heli should be armed & ready to fly! "Hold Your Heart" as the box says...[sm=shades_smile.gif]
Peter
P.S. If you're still grounded - please try typing again here (I may know what else it could be)
Yes - ask away here. We may ignore or just not read these pages - but will try to help any newbie we can! Try this: (you may be doing most of this now) Charge battery fully. Ensure AA batteries inside Tx (Transmitter) are OK also. Remove & reinstall crystals (they are near bottom LHS of face of Tx - behind a "holder" with the frequency printed on it. To remove just pull straight out - when reinstalling just make sure the pins are lined up and press them in all the way) as they may have been disturbed during transit. Lower throttle & THROTTLE TRIM all the way to the bottom. Center the other 3 trims. Switch on Tx. Seat battery in Lama4 & plug in. Hold heli still until red light changes to green flashing and then green solid (should take 5-6 seconds all up) - Now the heli should be armed & ready to fly! "Hold Your Heart" as the box says...[sm=shades_smile.gif]
Peter
P.S. If you're still grounded - please try typing again here (I may know what else it could be)
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
If he's talking about binding, isn't it a 2.4Gig TX/RX, with no crystals? I think that 2.4 Gig systems are completely different (and I don't have that kind of Lama, although I do have a Spektrum that I use with airplanes).
#939
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
I see that you have had a mishap before xmas, ok check if your shafts are straight by disconnecting one motor, power it up slowly to about half then do the other one the same way, look at it from above and the side, I did mine and found that both were bent but the inner was bent slightly so I straightened the inner but changed the outer
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
hmmm cant figure it out dont look bent but i know it has somthing to do with the uper blades/grips cuz if i take them off and power it up the tail dont wobble :\ i think maybe the plastic grips arnt snug enough on the Alum upgrade head ? im not sure =[ i mean it flys and all but its kinda anoying =[
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
thanks for the reply. I have tried everything you said with no luck. My controller is 2.4G, so I'm not sure about the crystals. If there was one in it I can't tell how to get it how, it is not where you said. If you have any other advice that would be great. Thanks
#943
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
There is Slite play where the little pins go into the grips themselfs but i put them back onto the old shaft and its the same there is still a little play that what i was thinking was the reason for it but i wasnt sure :\ i guess i must deal with it till i can get money to replace my head =[ Thanks for all the help
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
yah acually i did change them out and it does it but way Less i have incounterd a new problem =x not enough lift ? idk but it seems like it just dont have much lift lol im just full of problems sorrys guys =x
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
ORIGINAL: eclipse690
thanks for the reply. I have tried everything you said with no luck. My controller is 2.4G, so I'm not sure about the crystals. If there was one in it I can't tell how to get it how, it is not where you said. If you have any other advice that would be great. Thanks
thanks for the reply. I have tried everything you said with no luck. My controller is 2.4G, so I'm not sure about the crystals. If there was one in it I can't tell how to get it how, it is not where you said. If you have any other advice that would be great. Thanks
I do not have 2.4gHz in any of mine - never saw the need - so I can't be that specific. One guy from this forum that I know DOES is "cjennjr". PM him and ask politely for specific help re. 2.4G (tell him Peter off Esky Lama 4 Thread sent you). Here is part of his last post (I think it was his last): "I just received a 2.4G Lama V4 for Xmas - did three flights indoors (I already have a Belt CP and Raptor G2). The Lama is fun to fly; however, the ticks on the throttle stick won't let me maintain a stable hover. I have to always adjust one click at a time to raise or lower - it won't go stable for nothing...Maybe I'll adjust the trim tab and see what happens. I look forward to sharing my experiences with this forum". WHAT BETTER WAY THAN TO SHARE HIS KNOWLEDGE OF 2.4gHz with a newbie such as yourself?
Peter
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
Hey Motormat, miss me? I've been off flying my newest toy - a Big Lama!
Now, re. Your latest problem. Less power. Sometimes this is caused by binding of the components. Sometimes by collapsed bearings - this option sounds logical to me 'cause it would explain your last problem also, but you've masked it by replacing blades. Is there any "play" when you move head from side to side? How much? Can you identify any new noises near swashplate? If not, it could be your drive train. Start at either end of it (with battery is easiest, then wiring from battery to 4in1 & wiring from 4in1 to motors, motors themselves, motor pinions, main gear teeth, two SMALL SCREWS THAT HOLD GEAR TO INNER SHAFT, shafts - although you've looked at these already with aid from The Collector1 I see) What you are specifically looking for is: check battery voltages. (They should be adequate to provide enough juice for lift off!) Check loose (even unsoldered) or damaged wiring. If you have access to other motors change them out, otherwise just unplug one (check if shaft is running smooth and true) and then the other. While you are there ensure the pinions are not slipping on the motor shaft, and that they are meshing with the main gears smoothly. Main Gear teeth are next, ensure you haven't partly taken out a few on a hard landing (and you thought it was ok?!) Next is my personal favourite, the two small screws that hold the main gear to the center shaft MUST be screwed into the flat area on the shaft. Wind them in hard - really - I crank mine down real tight after lining them up! You really need to - what, with metal to metal contact - you could even put a dab of non-permanent (blue) loctite on the screw thread before tightening them in![8D] This would usually manifest itself in uneven spinning up of the blade pairs though, so if the two pairs of blades start to spin around the same time - skip this step! Another way to check that your shaft has worked itself loose is to (unplug heli) grip the main gear in one hand and, holding heli upside down, hand-rotate head/upper blades. If they feel connected - they probably are!
Some ideas for you to try out - Got to go now
Please keep us all informed of any progress/developments
Peter
Now, re. Your latest problem. Less power. Sometimes this is caused by binding of the components. Sometimes by collapsed bearings - this option sounds logical to me 'cause it would explain your last problem also, but you've masked it by replacing blades. Is there any "play" when you move head from side to side? How much? Can you identify any new noises near swashplate? If not, it could be your drive train. Start at either end of it (with battery is easiest, then wiring from battery to 4in1 & wiring from 4in1 to motors, motors themselves, motor pinions, main gear teeth, two SMALL SCREWS THAT HOLD GEAR TO INNER SHAFT, shafts - although you've looked at these already with aid from The Collector1 I see) What you are specifically looking for is: check battery voltages. (They should be adequate to provide enough juice for lift off!) Check loose (even unsoldered) or damaged wiring. If you have access to other motors change them out, otherwise just unplug one (check if shaft is running smooth and true) and then the other. While you are there ensure the pinions are not slipping on the motor shaft, and that they are meshing with the main gears smoothly. Main Gear teeth are next, ensure you haven't partly taken out a few on a hard landing (and you thought it was ok?!) Next is my personal favourite, the two small screws that hold the main gear to the center shaft MUST be screwed into the flat area on the shaft. Wind them in hard - really - I crank mine down real tight after lining them up! You really need to - what, with metal to metal contact - you could even put a dab of non-permanent (blue) loctite on the screw thread before tightening them in![8D] This would usually manifest itself in uneven spinning up of the blade pairs though, so if the two pairs of blades start to spin around the same time - skip this step! Another way to check that your shaft has worked itself loose is to (unplug heli) grip the main gear in one hand and, holding heli upside down, hand-rotate head/upper blades. If they feel connected - they probably are!
Some ideas for you to try out - Got to go now
Please keep us all informed of any progress/developments
Peter
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
I went to place place where the helicopter was ordered from and they just gave me a new transmitter, which fixed the problem. Now I just have to practice flying, its a lot harder than I thought it would be. Thanks again for all the help.
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RE: ESKY LAMA 4 THREAD
ORIGINAL: eclipse690
I went to place place where the helicopter was ordered from and they just gave me a new transmitter, which fixed the problem. Now I just have to practice flying, its a lot harder than I thought it would be. Thanks again for all the help.
I went to place place where the helicopter was ordered from and they just gave me a new transmitter, which fixed the problem. Now I just have to practice flying, its a lot harder than I thought it would be. Thanks again for all the help.
Practice in a BIG room - the bigger - the better! You will learn orientation in lots of room faster when you are not just avoiding crashing into walls/doors/fish tanks/dog/grandma's priceless antique vase...etc
Motormat,
What progress? Did you find and cure your troubles?
Peter