Jimeni

I have 6 screws in my cowl. 2 on each side, and 1 on top and bottom. Looks and holds great.

The easiest way to cover the holes is with decals, if their location permits. You could also span a decal from fuselage onto the cowl. Same color ultracote is an option. Otherwise, good luck matching the paint.

Yogy

thanks Jimeni , i`ll get the battery and see what happens. and as u said if its too big i`ll go with a smaller one u can never have enought lipos :P

trpastor

Hey Guys

So how should the saito 100 be sounding, and idling on this plane? I'm wondering if mine is in good condition or not. It vibrates a LOT in idle and spits and sputters in idle (and also needs a pretty fast idle to say idle without dying. Enough that it jogs down the runway in idle)

the whole plane shankes back and forth and vibrates a lot. Is this just to be expected witha saito 100?

thanks
Tim

tIANci

Tr ... try to lean the low end just a smidge ... but that engine does vibrate a bit.

Jimeni

Definately lean your idle some. A rich idle vibrates alot. If you take your time balancing and tuning, you will not have an issue with vibration. Remember to balance the spinner too. Again, if you are vibrating that much, something is wrong, whether its just tuning or balancing. NO PROPS OR SPINNERS COME BALANCED ENOUGH, NONE OF THEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Balance blades 1st, then hub. Also use at least 15% nitro. If this engine normally vibrated planes apart, they would not sell like hotcakes.

STG

My Feedback: (26)

My SA100/FL330 does not vibrate that bad. It does idle down nicely. I run 5-15%nitro. I am comparing it to YS110 on 68 yak. I like the smoothness of the two strokes (OS32,55,91,120,160).

victorzamora

Yeah, I was about to say that my Saito 100 doesn't vibrate much at all....and I'm still breaking it in. I mean, take the wings off and good luck keeping it from vibrating...but the engine runs like a top as far as I'm concerned. It's almost as smooth as my 46AX.

Jimeni

Finally, I was starting to think I was the only one in here who didnt have a vibrating 100.

trpastor

Ok, I'll try tweaking the needles and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks for your help guys. I'll keep you posted.

Tim

badfish

most saitos come sloppy rich on the low end. once its broken in. try leaning your low end needle. It should smooth out a bunch.

steve

STG

My Feedback: (26)

I have mine mounted inverted and have the low end as lean as possible. The down side to this is that on waterfalls I have had the motor quit with rapid increase & decrease in throttle.

badfish

key is finding a happy spot. I would definately put up with a little shaking over having a dead stick. another thing I do is listen for the rpm drop when removing the glow stick. the richer it is the more your rpms will drop.

steve

STG

My Feedback: (26)

Yep, that is why I have it set so lean on the low end. Set up inverted and set lean, there is still a noticeable drop in RPM when glow is removed. As long as I don’t go full open/close/open/close/open real fast (as in fast waterfall—this FL is capable of wicked fast WF’s[8D]) then I don’t have a problem.

trpastor

Well guys, It looks like my fliton days are over. I was doing some tinkering on it trying to get things worked out when I realized the plane is pretty much trashed. I was trying to start it the other day and was having those engine problems. Well, it backfired, rolled back and chipped the prop on the stand.

Apparently when it did this it broke the engine box free of the fire wall AND the firewall is cracked at the top, clear across.

Overall I have been very disappointed with this plane. It flew great the few times I got to fly it, but it was a huge pain to build, and fell apart not even in the air. How very disappointing that I will not get to see what it can do

trpastor

Hey Jemini

Is the aeroworks almost as fun to fly? Better built? Easier build? Is the saito 100 too much for it?

I'm done with this POS, and need to move onto something else.
Tim

Jimeni

The Aeroworks edge is fine. I think if I had the money though, I would try the 60 to 90 Yak or Extra 260. You already have all the stuff. But you will not be dissapointed in the edge either. The Fliton does fly a bit better than the AW Edge, but from what I'm seeing, it will have nothing on the Extra or Yak.

On your Fliton. Its wood, epoxy will fix it. It cant be that bad. If its just cracked, but still in place, put a piece of light ply, or thin balsa strip over the crack, and epoxy away. Add some tri stock to the engine box.

trpastor

Thanks Jemini

Did you have any issues with the aeroworks (breaking parts, weird fits etc, etc etc) that the fliton has?

I'm just so sick of not even flying this thing and having to fix things every time out. Anyone want this before I bring an axe down on it?

Jimeni

Nope. The edge is a very straight forward build, with excellent parts, hardware, and instructions. The new Extra, and Yak are quick builds. You'll be flying in about 6 to 8 hours. Aeroworks, as an added bonus, has about the best customer service you can get. Not to mentiobn all the pretty ladies showing you the models

victorzamora

I have the AW Extra 60-90 and I had the Fliton Edge. I like the AW Extra more than the Fliton once it's in the air. I like the AW WAYYY more than the fliton between box and air. I think that the AW flies much better than the Fliton

trpastor

Hey Guys

Here's some shots. You can see the tabs broke on the bottom. ANd the engine box broke away on both sides on the bottom.

The top of the firewall (that the engine box is attached to) is giving, back and forth. Like it's soft.

What do you think repair would entail on this?

trpastor

In case I decide not to fix it, anyone want to buy parts?

I have wing set -
fusealage - needs work : )

Hatch
canopy
landing gear
make offers
I'll keep engine and electronics and use on something else

Jimeni

I would cut the motor box completely loose, leaving remaining tabs intact. Clean off old epoxy edges, and get everything to a nice fit. Epoxy it on with more tristock where the tabs are broken, and probably several other spots. Fix crack as stated previously. From the pictures, I would say 1 to 1/2 hours work tops, it does not look that bad. When your done, it will be stronger than ever. Your plane has alot of life left. You already have it, use it up. Then you can take your time deciding on the replacement.

trpastor

Do you mean cut the motor box free of the firewall, or just on the bottom 2 tabs?

I was thinking I'd have to cut it off and put a new piece of ply over the whole firewall for reinforcement. But how to you get the motorbox secure to the firewall again without having any tabs? Is the tri stock and epoxy enough? I'm not been overly impressed with expoxy, but maybe i"ve been using it wrong

Jimeni

Remove the whole box from the fuselage and clean up old epoxy edges so you can get a clean, flush fit. Dont remove the remaining tabs. You can re epoxy the broken ones on for alignment if you want, but you will be able to tell where to place the box. Unless you put something through the tabs once they are through the bulkhead, they dont add that much strength anyways, they are mainly for alignment. Put a coat of epoxy down before you position the tristock, once in place, coat the tristock also. Tristock with epoxy in a corner is extremely strong. A flat end blade for your exacto will make removal easier. Just work it throught the gaps to seperate things. Heating up the wood and epoxy with a heat gun or blow dryer will help get through it big time. Remember, the motor box comes from the factory with about 25% of the tristock it needs, in my opinion.

trpastor

Ok, so when I go to put it back on only the tri stock and epoxy would be holding it on? Should i put a thin piece of ply on the bulkhead before I reattach the enginebox to strenghten the whole thing?