Mr. Mugen

I have replaced my diff gear about 4 times now and haven't hardl;y run the dang thing. Is there a better steel gear out there? The big diff gear, not the inner gears. I have fully upgraded the rear of this truck to keep things put but to no avail I keep losing teeth on these gears. Sure would be nice to have some sort of slipper on this thing.

Kevin

csp1971

Try these maybe?

http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/lsh...g_monster,.htm

Here is a coarse pitch which is considerably cheaper. Maybe someone knows of someone here in the U.S. that has them in stock:

http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/lsh...er.2wd_or,.htm

Coarse pitch pinion to go with it:

http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/lsh...zahn_0001,.htm

Do you have the alloy large and small motor mounts? Is the motor coming a bit loose? Must be a reason it keeps losing teeth.

Mr. Mugen

The whole rear end is alloy. Mostly CNR stuff. It is not coming loose...maybe a rock or something getting in there and binding up? It took one tooth out completely and the others are untouched. The gear was on there for one run. Looking at another thread I see a gear set with worm style gears. This would help greatly with the torque and wanting to seperate. Who makes those?...better look at your link.....might be them.

Kevin

Foxy

Elcon makes them... [link=http://www.rc-car-online-shop.de/cgi-bin/cosmoshop/lshop.cgi?action=showdetail&wkid=1834&ls=e&nc=1237922938-1949&rubnum=&artnum=elc-18660&file=&gesamt_zeilen=0Tsuchefg%20spur]Elcon spiral cut full steel gear set for FG monster models.[/link]

csp1971

Maybe this to keep rocks out?

http://www.davesmotors.com/s.nl/c.88...t.A/id.2868/.f

Lars from Norway

One thing is for sure,it keeps the rocks and dirt inside if it gets there.

csp1971

Kind of like a clothes dryer! LOL

Lars from Norway

Excactly

hitman1985

Mr Mugen,

then with all due respect you must be driving wrong.
with the upgraded rear diff blocks to aluminum the elevated version for monster, then ball drives and the diff circle with reinforced steel that is described up there (HT-Differential ring gear, extreme duty, 41T, y0202 - 1pce.)

i never had the problem with the big sprocket or gear or tooth wheel again, the only thing that i had to keep replacing with extreme off road usage on my truck was uprights front and in the rear the upper a arms, if you would be able to post some pics of your rear {upper and lower} in detail it would be great.

hope that helped a little bit

oh ps.

that cover there, is worthless... it keeps mud dirt and heat in, i prefer to have it open and get my diff cover a bit scratched rather then the thing heating up my gears internal and external to differential... everything that comes in has to come out with a cover, that is just prohibited,

also i left the lower cover off my monster after upgrading to the reinforced steel wheel i threw that little plastic cover away. never had issues with stones in or out there

SAVAGEJIM

I like that cover! I will have to get one of those for my 2WD FG. My comp one already came with a black plastic one and it does a great job keeping out rocks and stuff (even fine dirt) from getting at the drive belt!

I am curious, what engine is MrMugen running to rip teeth off the outer diff gear? That engine must be producing super-fly torque!

hitman1985

not really, if that was the case then the 16 tooth or the outer 46 t would break if im not mistaken, that has happend a couple of times to me, the one thing else i could think of is faulty quality on the parts, or the gear is hitting the chassis plate because of some untightened screws on the engine and diff blocks ( assumptions) easy to rule out untightened screew and movement down there, just check the chassis plate if it has any damage front or backside of the diff gear. other then that, there must be something wrong, i had one diff gear within 6month of driving (hitman style ) maybe as said he can provide some footage would be helpfull :P

Mr. Mugen

Hey...been driving for 25 years...no issue with driving. I went through 2 gears with stock motor mounts and the rest of the rear plastic. Now it is full alloy. I believe it is a rock that got in there both times since. It just ripped the tooth out...none of the other teeth are even looking used. It is a gear material thing IMO. I want a gear that is made of higher quality steel is all. These stock ones are too soft IMO. If it was a sealed drivetrain I believe it would be fine. I do not just drive on grass....this is an off road truck...rocks are off road. No amount of driving experience will stop rocks from getting in the drivetrain... I don't care who you are....

Kevin

hitman1985

no one said that i think, that driving experience prevents rocks from getting in there...

well grab that reinforced one for a try, that one seemed to be working fine, and as i mentioned i never used those fancy protections, i drove in sand pits as well as grass as well as rock pits.

i might not have 25yrs experience but i can tell you from my time in xtreme offroad with a fg monster, i would never go full alloy parts, i would always leave one weak link (a "must break" part) within the outer fast fix parts, so in case u make a driving mistake or something unexpected happens, one of these fast fixers breaks

usually i leave uprights front and rear i leave a arm plastic

in the end its all personal preference. i loved the reinforced steel gear and had no issues.

Mr. Mugen

All good man. Have a love/hate relationship with this beast. I have had this one for about 4 years now and have spent foolishly on it. Sort of like the 1:1 truck...should of sold after first repair...haha. Looking at getting it back together and using it more lightly from now on. Funny I can bash the crap out of my stock marder and have for years now with no issues like the big wheel monster.

Kevin

hitman1985

trust me its the weight

ive experienced exactly the same, marder runs all day, and every time we would leave the bashing grounds, the only car that would still run as in the morning ; the marder

kinda emberassing, but if your looking around i bash the crap out of my monster

see :
about the nicest video i made of hardcore driving
hope you like it, feel free to comment.
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UScI2cAlg6g&feature=channel_page[/youtube]

Foxy

Engine torque wil usually destroy the pinion and spur first, yes (16/48 btw), and I also agree that this problem of the OP is not a normal thing. There is no reason you should be destroying the diff ring gear in regular use, even with a 6hp engine. You really need to disassemble the rear end and inspect carefully, there must be a reason for this. Don't waste money on the elcon gears until you know that they won't be similarly eaten. Have you checked the gear shafts are still straight? It's very weird that you break those gears, very very weird. What kind of diff are you running? What engine?

I disagree it's the weight though. I have 5 large scales, the FG MT is the lightest. Mr Mugen's simply got some kind of issue. Finally, since we're posting our 'bash the crap out of our FGs' videos...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Il2VMtpdCuE[/youtube]

Mr. Mugen

Well I tore this down to bare bones and went through it all. I think it was a freak thing. It is as it should be in all ways. There is no worn or cracked parts. Nothing is out of whack, alignment or bent. I replaced the shaft with the spur/brakes/pinion on it. It had lost the clip off the spur end and made a mess out of my spur a while back. It was not bent but needed replacing due to the end being chewed up a bit. I used loctite on every bolt as I always do. All threads are cleaned out each time it is tore down so the loctite is effective. There are no signs of anything slipping or moving in the slotted holes. Engine has not moved since putting the alloy mounts on. Not sure what can be wrong. Chassis is not bent or tweaked at all. Check this with a flat stone and straight edge....no variations at all. I will take a pic and show you the beast as it sits now.

Kevin

Mr. Mugen

Here they are. See is there is anyhting obvious from these. If you want another angle I will be happy to take more pics.

Kevin

hitman1985

hmm looks like the parts are perfectly fitting not to much room not squeezed onto each other, as mentioned, could just have been bad luck with the gears, i would try the heavy duty one form hobbythek, p.s. where did you get the outer 48t in original style if im allowed to ask, i need one of those again

thanks and best luck

Mr. Mugen

Got it at Largescalerc.com I believe they advertise here...hope so anyway. Not sure how the policy is on that. Anyway I have discussed this with Troy in length and came to the conclusion that rocks suck! Come summer I will order the elcon set. Back in school we made gears just like them on the hor. mill. No more access to that mill... [] I bought a lathe and vert. mill 2 years back but would not be able to make these type gears for the life of me.

I found another gear attached to the old diff I put in for now....it is new. I bought the upgraded diff and bought new gear for it....sort of forgot about the new one on the old diff.

Looking inside my motor, I found lots of porosity on the conn rod. Is this normal for these motors? When I worked in a machine shop we machined our conn rods..these are merely cast and machined at the ends only. Here is a pic of the conn rod porosity.


Kevin

Mr. Mugen

WOW...forgot how much fun this thing is! Just took it out for a rip for about 20 minutes. Took it real easy for it's first time. Only jumped small jumps (snow banks), and did some speed runs. I anded up taking the carb apart and found some dirt in it.....what a difference a clean carb makes. Had to put some expo in throttle to keep it from spinning out too fast. Didn't have this problem before. There was even a small bit of gasket material in the carb. Not sure how but it is also out now. Next time I buy one of these engines I am going to tear it down first....then run it. WOnder how long that gasket material was in there....I never used any on this one. Might have been an assembly thing. I seen this in other carbs before (not gasket material but gunk none the less). Hoping to get more than a tank or 2 out of this gear. Thanks for the links guys.

Kevin

SAVAGEJIM

I peronally have not seen that before either. I know I have driven one of my 26cc engines really hard, when it comes time for a rebuilt, or I get the bug to upgrade it with some neat goodies, I will make a note to look at the conrod for such a symptom. (I do not know how many gallons I have put through it, these engines take a LONG time to go through one gallon of fuel).
What you posted in the pic looks pretty big for simple pores.

As for the gears, I believe I also saw them on DDM. I think FG supply will have that gear too...that is if you know the the FG PN.