Lunchboxer

The spring that I posted are for those DF-03 shocks you see above... soft, medium, and hard... 3 sets...

mjderstine

i have been to the track a couple time already, and it doesnt dig in at all, i even lawn darted the thing a couple times, and the bumper is so elastic that is made the car bounce back on all 4 tires. i would say this bumper is great for racing and bashing. once i get the hang of this thing in the air, i think i will cut the bumpers off, and just retain the skids for the bottom of the chassis.

i have the spring kit for this thing, cant remember which ones i have on there now, but they seems to work well for me.

ScsFactor

Hi guys, nice DF-03´s you got there, keep them pictures coming!

My latest is the DF-03 MS, otherwise stock but I wanted CF shock towers. After installing those, I saw that  the front end of the body had to be modified a lot to get it fit. I wanted to be able to revert it back to the stock "MS-look", with the original shock towers if I wanted to make a shelf queen out of it.  So I saved the MS-sticker set and made a basher body with leftover paint and stickers. This way I have a decent basher and I can go back to the box art by just buying a new DI-chassis.

What do you think?




(yellow wheels are from a DF-03 Avante Mk.II set which is waiting an assembly)

ScsFactor

Funny - when I try to edit my previous post, I only get an blank "text box". Is there something a miss with my browers settings perhaps?

Lunchboxer

The DF-03 MS looks great!! The only suggestion I have is to change the servo saver to stiffer one if you got a metal geared servo.. but otherwise it is perfect as is!!

ScsFactor

Thanks LB! It´s just a Futaba S3010 so nylon gears Now I need those portable jumps from Tower Hobbies..

Lunchboxer

I had a S3010 in mine as well..  I ran this one..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXS443&P=ML

But yeah, if you feel there's not much flex there, then maybe the stock one is just fine..  no worry!!

Anyway, it is a great paint job..  LOL @ the comment about bash shell..  too pretty to bash, man!! 

DriftingDragon

hey guys im back now that i have money again, lol

so i just rebuilt my DI and and i have a slight problem at the steering block it will not go to the left lock it gets stuck on somthing but i cant find whats stopping it

EDIT: i just got back in and its my servo it was stripped

but now i have to transplant my stuff on to a new chassis cuz i totaled the frontend

mousecritter

My Feedback: (3)

That sucks.

Post some pics of the wreckage. It's always amusing.

Lunchboxer

Let's see some pics on damage!  What did you do?!

DriftingDragon

ok i can post pics later today

EDIT: sry guys i cant find the busted parts

but it was a front end collision into a curb so until i can find them you can kind of figure it out

jammystar

Where's all you DI basher's lately?

I'm having a few problems with the rear diff
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4117733/mpage_67/tm.htm]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4117733/mpage_67/tm.htm[/link]

Any advise would be great.

Lunchboxer

Wow, nasty.. diff not tight enough.. as usual.. !!

I had a pretty strong BL in my DI before and it held up okay.. make sure that the diff is tight...

Do you have slipper clutch?! Slipper is meant to slip.. not diff!!

jammystar

I do have a slipper clutch but there still seems to be loads of power at the front and hardly any at the back? I would of thought the slipper would make all wheels slip?

Do you reakon that it wasn't tight enough?

Sorry about all the Q's just want to get it right first time. [sm=thumbup.gif]

Lunchboxer

Yes.. your rear diff is obviously slipping, hence the lost of power.. !

Time to re-build it... and tighten it down the first time..

Make sure that you compress the diff spring a few times before you install it...

jammystar

Gona wait till i get the hardened rear diff joints with the diff plate housing built in. Those plastic housing's are terrible!

Ive got some annsman high speed diff grease so that my first starting point just got to wait for those joints to arrive.

Is it worth getting different diff balls?

Lunchboxer

Since you are re-building anyway, I'd definitely get some new balls in there... incremental cost = small...

jammystar

Thanks for the info lunchboxer. Just ordered some [link=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190318628111&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&salenotsupported] SILICONE NITRIDE PRO SERIES 3MM CERAMIC DIFF BALLS 10pc[/link] for the rebuild so hope this will make a difference

Lunchboxer

Should help.. but wouldn't matter if the lock nut keeps on getting loose!

I'd tighten the diff and then use some thredlock on the outside of the locknut just to make sure!! (once you know it is tight enough.. !)

And maybe loosen the slipper a little bit, ha!

jammystar

I was reading the DI book and it says to tighten the diff so you cant move the spur by hand when holding both joints, is this true?

Lunchboxer

Yes, as otherwise it is slipping....

Many people do not tighten the ball diff enough and end up w/ a melted diff...

jammystar

Right! i'll make sure i do it up nice and tight. Think that might of been my problem before, didn't tighten it enough .

Lunchboxer

Good luck!! Keep us posted!!

Post some pics when you are done or during the build!

jammystar

Right just finished rebuilding the diff and used the HPI screw that most people recommend as well. Car seems fine but my ezrun ESC fan has packed in so dont want to run it till i get a replacement. Was thinking of the yeah racing high powered fan?

Here's a couple of pics of the rebuild.

Lunchboxer

What kind of grease is that?!