LONGREDDOG

I purchased the plastic engine mount for a sure start .049, from "Bay". It came with six screws , two of them are about 7/8" long , two are about 5/8" in. and two are about 3/8". I can't figure out which ones go where. The two middle size ones look like the are the right length for the engine backplate and mount, the other ones are either too short or too long.
The screws that look like they are correct are black, the other ones are chrome.
Thanks in advance for any help . I 'm trying to get back into some 1/2 A controlline stuff after about thirty years!
This fourm is great, i've been able to catch up on a lot of things that I had fogotten by reading the past postings.
Thanks again! Ed.

build light

Ed, thanks for posting!

I sure don't know all the answers but here is how I think it should go. The shortest screws go in the mount by itself as shown in this picture I have doctored for you.
The longest screws go at the far end as shown.
The black screws I would put in the middle.

Not sure why three different lengths are supplied or why they have two different platings.

If anyone else can help, I am sure they will post.

Robert

LONGREDDOG

Thanks for your picture, I'll try it out tomorow. I also don't understand why the extra two screws were in the package.
Once again thanks for the info. Ed.

build light

Actually they would be for the middle two holes in the mount. If you were to follow what I said and only used the four shiny screws in the locations marked you would wind up with only two screws holding the engine to the mount. You really need four.
That is why there are six screws.

Hope to see what you are bulding soon.

Robert

SGC

From my veiw of the picture, the black(mid length) screws hold the mount to the firewall, the longest hold both the motor and mount to the firewall , the short hold the motor to the mount , ie 4 shiney screws on the backplate 2 dark screws on the mount.
this gives the option of reveing the whole assy from the firewall or just the motor from the mount.
Stewart

gcb

It's only a guess but I think your mount is meant to be used with a RTF where the mount fits in a groove on the plane and the sides of the fuselage are screwed to the mount with the two upper screws. That leaves the other four positions to screw the engine to the mount.

It is easy to mount the engine using wood spacers, or if necessary remove the choke tube and the engine backplate can be mounted directly to the firewall. If you do this, remember that the choke tube also supplies protection tor the needle valve.

George

NEW222

As I look at this picture taken, the screws in that picture are definately not for attaching the engine block to the mount. They look like more of a coarse screw, not a machine screw. Just my observation from the picture. If they are indeed 2-56 threaded screws, please disregard what I just said.

LONGREDDOG

Thanks to everyone for the ideas! All the screws have the coarse thead, and both the engine backplate and the mount are not threaded, so it seems that the screws are suposed to go through the backplate without grabing hold. The screws do grab and hold to the engine mount. Ed.

Big Al-RCU

Ed, PM me your mail address and I'll send you some customized wooden spacer mounts.
Al

lildiesel

Could you upload pictures or a drawing of your mount? I'd like to make one to try for myself since its time to put my delrin backplate mount engines onto something besides Brodak C/L kits or the 1x2 "test stand" I clamp into my Workmate.

Big Al-RCU

It’s just a wooden spacer to allow the SS to be flush mounted to the firewall. Some use spacers, others use alum tubing stand-offs, etc. To me, the spacer seems a bit more solid.

A few years ago, I made some, both for my own use and also as a learning exercise on a CNC Sherline mill. (It’s cheaper and safer to practice on wood than metal, at least for me.)

Recently, after a period of non-use, new software and some hardware mods, I needed to get back up to speed with the mill. So I dug out the spacer dwg, tweaked it and made some practice runs. I ended up with a half-dozen configurations and a bunch more parts than I will ever use. Once set-up, the mill only takes a few minutes each and does a far better job than I could do by hand.

The offer stands, as long as they last, I will gladly send a couple to anyone on the forum that asks.

Al

ptulmer

My Feedback: (5)

Wow Big Al! That last one looks really great! You guys go to a lot of trouble just to keep the choke tube. Is it really that handy for flip-starting?

gcb

Various versions of the Sure Start were made before the choke tube was added. You can run off an exhaust prime or two to get fuel up to the engine. The choke tube just makes it easier. Though I have not tried it, there is probably a limit of how far the prime will draw.

Note that the choke tube also supplies support for the needle valve. Previous versions had shorter needle valves.

George

lildiesel

Those wooden mounts look great. I could see using the beefiest of them as the basis for a "break away" engine mount in a semi profile plane like Cox did in the PT 19 trainer. Of course, I'll be making it with a coping saw and my Dremel drill press instead a machining it.

lildiesel

What's your plug of choice for running that Charlie's RC Goodies head? I used to run a Fox plug, but haven't used it in ages.

Big Al-RCU

In all honesty, I've not run a SS with the choke tube. Gee, I didn't say that I USED these spacers, I just made them! Actually, it started as a learning exercise on my CNC Sherline mill and then they turned out too pretty to just let go to waste.
al

gcb

I got that engine along with some other goodies. Didn't know about the head. I thought it was home made. Have not run it yet.

George