RCalltheway14

Jerry

Im builing my own T-34 Mentor.
Im planing on making my plane super scale to Julie Clark's T-34A mentor of American Aerobatics.
I wonder, how did you make the templates on the horizontal and vertical stabs as the real one.
Also I wanted to know where and how did you make the lights in the leading edge of the wings.
Did you covered the plane in fiber glass to paint it?  Im not sure either to cover it and paint it or just use monokote.


Any help will be greatly appreciated,
Richard

PT21Flyer

My Feedback: (1)

Richard,

If you mean the templates for the indentions on the stabs and control surfaces I used a combination of three views and pictures of a full scale to get them close enough since I'm not going to compete with my plane. The lights were from a three view and were cut into the leading edge. I heat formed clear butyrate sheet for the lenses over a hardwood form. My plane is covered with .56 oz. glass cloth and finishing resin (epoxy) and then primed with epoxy primer and covered with real aluminum. The control surfaces and stabs are painted with silver base coat/ clear coat automotive urethane paint. I'm hopeing to finally test fly my plane in the next few weeks. It's funny you should mention Julie Clark. We are having an airshow and fireworks July 3rd and she is supposed to be here in Tullahoma.

Jerry

RCalltheway14

Jerry

Thanks
I was thinking since is my first plane building it on my own im going to go simple and use monokote.
Im going to make the leading edge lights.
Where exactly did you locate the lights?

But anyways thanks again.
Richard

PT21Flyer

My Feedback: (1)

Richard,

The cut out for the lights is located 13" to 14" inboard of the tip rib and is 9/16" deep. Hope this helps and good luck with the build.

Jerry

RCalltheway14

Jerry

Thanks for your help
Did you already give your first flight to yours?
Let me know how it goes
Good Luck!

Richard

Mode1HeliGuy

My Feedback: (1)

Hello,
I found this photos on the web of a T-34A in Japanese markings.
They might help you.

Chuck

V35BFLYER

Hi guys,

Lots of useful T34 info. over at http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_63..._4/key_/tm.htm
starting on page 4. It's actually quite a good build thread and the guy is doing a ton of detailing as well as explaining a bunch of "how to" things. Just fyi.

djay

Well I gave up on using the YS 140DZ engine, as I could not get it to run in the air. On the ground it is fine, masses of power, but once airborne it would cut everytime, within 30 seconds of take off.
I have now installed a Saito 1.80. This started first time and no running in, just flew. Masses of power and it hauls this 17 pound bird round with authority. Cylinder heads stick out a bit, and the cowling will need replacing where it has been cut about for the 3 engines I have fitted.
It flew very well, may need a more powerful servo on the elevator, as there is a slight lag on the responce, or maybe a dual elevator servo set up, will have to look into that.
On landing, one flap linkage broke and the flap was free floating, which caused a lot of problems. But as this plane flies so well. I managed to land it on the 3rd attempt with no flaps.
I had it practiacally stopped in mid air just above the runway before aborting the landings, and it did not stall once.
Hopefully now I have fixed the flap I can fly it and enjoy it.
This has to be the best flying Top Flite kit, even better then the DC3.

Darryl

djay

Just an update on my mentor.

The saito 1.80 is the absolutly perfect match for this aeroplane.
It hauls it around with authority, and at a perfect scale speed.
I have a good 10 flights on it now, and am flying it to enjoy it, not to set it up anymore.
I use a mass of runway to take it off, with no flaps, but that is just because I am scared of tip stalling, though with half flap this will have a very short field performance.
It is a peach to land, full flap, high idle, point the nose at the runway and she floats in like a feather for a perfect ultra slow 3 point landing everytime, with hardly any roll out as she is going so slow.
If anyone does fit this engine, ensure you fit the biggest tank you can when building it as it is a thirsty engine. But I now fly at half throttle and only open it up to climb or loop.
I love this plane.
Changed the elevator servo to a digital and the elevator is nice and precise now, just have to change the aileron ones out to make the responce more crisp.

Any one else still flying theres?

Darryl

Dean rcu

My Feedback: (5)

Getting ready to install the retract valves ect. on this quarter scale T-34. I might be ready to fly in another month or so.

drifter

My Feedback: (53)

Still flying. OS 120 fs

oliveDrab

Is that glassed/painted or monokoted or ultracoted or some-other-kinda-coated?

chielles

Still building on mine.



Puting a lot of work in the gear doors. The inner main doors will open and close with a servo, but for the nosewheel doors, I have to make a mechanical construction.



The motor is going to be the Turnigy 63-64-A 280Kv 65A Brushless Outrunner. Yes an electric motor!!!! [sm=shades_smile.gif]



With a 8S lipo setup, it will give around 1800 Watts!!! (2.5 HP)

rgaynor

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chielles - note sure if you are still following this thread, but I would be very interested to learning more about your electric set up. I am building a TF Bonanza Kit and plan to convert to electric as well. Your feedback is much appreciated.
Ron

chielles

Hi Ron!

I'm still building, but should have it flying in the next few months. Here is my setup:

Motor: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2097&Product_Name=Turnigy_63-64-A_280Kv_65A_Brushless_Outrunner_(52-30)

Battery: 2 x 4s 5000mAh 30C Zippy Lipo in serie, so that's 8s.

ESC: 150A

Prop: 17x10 or 18x10

I didn't fly it yet, so I have no idea how it will perform, but on paper it will give 8kg of thrust so the weight to power ratio is 1:1. I hope it will fly for 10 minutes.

I just started painting. As soon as it flies, I will post the results.

lear31A

My Feedback: (123)

I hear they are ARFing this one in the near future, any one else heard this rumor?

chielles

Didn't hear that rumor. The kit is so much fun to build, it takes a long time, but the quality is so good, I wouldn't buy an ARF.

But is is handy when I ever crash mine, because I won't spend another 2 years of my life building a second one.

F86_SABRE

Hi,

I have just posted on another section of RCU a request to try and find the inscription details which can be found on the nose wheel of the T-34A/B as listed in the photo. Any help will be appreciated.

With thanks

Reuben

bobripley

Hello Reuben,

Here you go sir.

F86_SABRE

Hey Bob...you are a saint! Thank you!!!!!
Much obliged!!

Regards

Reuben

oliveDrab

Chielles -

I'm really impressed with your electric T34B and I applaud your decision to install an electric motor. I've got two electric Sig King Kobra's and an electric 4Star60. They are all AXI'fied (AXI 4120/14 and 4120/18). The King Kobra's are the fastest planes I've ever flown. The sound they make on a fast flyby is awesome.

I'm considering modifying my T34B to be an electric plane. But since it's currently too heavy to fly as an electric I'll have to remove lots of paint and glass cloth then Ultracote it. That's alot of work. Maybe I should just build another one but build it light this time, and suspend the old one from my living room ceiling (that's why I don't currently have a girlfriend - airplanes hanging from the ceiling and airplane pictures on the wall - some women don't like that).

How do you intend to cover your T34B? Covering or paint?

-oliveDrab

chielles

Olivedrab-

I'm doing something else with the covering, hope it works:

I'm putting on 5 layers of pore-filler and sand it between each layer, I'm almost done with that. The parts that have all 5 layers on it feel very strong and smooth.
Next I will put on a primer, and than I will spray-paint it white. The lining will be done with stickers.

It was a though choice to do it this way, but I didn't like Monokoting it and heard (also from you) about the weight glassing adds. (I'm not good at it either)
I got this idea from my local r/c-shop and it is not very strong (have to watch out with the transport) but it is a light solution.

oliveDrab

After Monokoting several planes, and not being totally satisfied with the results, I have to say I agree with you. On one of my King Kobra's I have a battery hatch I experimented with. I applied 4 coats of 20-minute finishing epoxy/resin to the wood, letting it dry and sanding smooth between coats. I filled large imperfections with a light-weight filler. I was TOTALLY satisfied with the results. Sprayed the battery hatch with some yellow Krylon Fusion that I already had on hand for spraying plastic parts like the engine cowl. I wish I had done the entire fuselage this way, although I'm unsure about the weight. But it's gotta be lighter than fiberglass cloth and epoxy/resin.

What is the name of the pore-filler you used? This may turn out to be lighter than the 20-minute finishing resin.

In the future I intend to move away from Monokote and Ultracote. The Solarfilm people in Britain are sending me some samples of Solarfilm and SolarSpan. Will experiment with those and see if I'm satisfied with them. I'm finding that the lighter Ultracote colors such as white and yellow are slightly translucent - I can see wood grain through them. When I cover a plane, I want it totally covered so I don't see any wood grain beneath, not partially covered.

Maybe it's possible to have a plane that's part covering and part like you and I are doing it. If the plane is an electric plane we don't need to worry about fuel proofing and therefore open to more paint options such as Krylon.

About strength: An electric plane does not need to be as strong as a glow or gas plane, therefore eliminating the need for glassing. As I said before about my O.S. 1.20 powered T34B.....I wish I hadn't covered it with fiberglass cloth and I really, really, really wish I hadn't sprayed it with Lustrekote. Ultrakote would have been ok.

F86_SABRE

Hi Bob,

I have been playing around with Coreldraw and I managed to come a bit close to the marking you posted. I have not done the lower part though but will give it a shot as well.

Reuben

F86_SABRE

oops...do not know what happened but it does not seem to be loading so i changed it to a lower resolution so that it may show up. Retrying.

Reuben