lindy757

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the tips. I did get some great ideas and help here. People seem very friendly and helpful.
Yesterday, I could get it to pop with the choke closed and after priming. But with choke open it would try to fire for 5-6 flips then seem to run out of fuel and no more "putt-putt-putt". So, in a bit of frustration I decided to slap the prop harder, (as I had seen in the Cermark "How-to start video on YouTube). After the third slap IT STARTED!!!! Ran it a bit to warm up, leaned the high and low needles for smoother mid range transitions and more RPM on top end. Shut it down and was successful starting it 3 more times within 3 flips/slaps. Thick glove that protect the fingers from bruises is a must though.

Jimeni

I have been an A&P mechanic for 26 years, it does help with this hobby, thats for sure. I work on jets and turbo props, I avoid the piston engines in our shop like the plague. I've worked on large aircraft most of my carreer (DC-8, DC-10, 727's, and L-1011's), but for the last 8 years I've been at a repair station. I'm use to working on the small citations, beechjets, and king airs now.

You should not have to slap your prop. Leave the low end a little rich, it makes it start much easier. After it is broke in you can worry about fine tuning for power. If you are running the fuel out after your last flight, stop, its not a glow, you dont need to do that. Just defuel the tank. It will leave your carb, and fuel feed line primed. Obviously, run it dry before you put it up for the winter. I fly all year so I never run it dry. Also, if you position your prop to hit compression with the blades at 10 and 4 oclock, its easier to flip, and your prop will stll be almost level in a dead stick. Put your fingers closer to the spinner than the tip when you flip it, it gives your flip a little more umph. If I have not ran in a few days, I usually see 4 to 6 flips with choke on to get it to pop, then 4 or 5 flips, choke off to fire. But after that, even after cool down, its 3 flips at most, no choke to fire.

leepord geko

Ok the vess props have arrived and probably the best looking prop I've ever seen no wait mejlick takes the slice for best looking prop I mean who doesn't like carbon fibre!? I got a 17x8 for the yak and 14x8, and 15x6 for the saito 100 we shall see if they live up to what is advertised! My yak is heavy too being 12lbs and it will hover but there is no pull out so if the vess pull's out we will automatically determine the winner lol.

Later

Jimeni

If you want vertical, you should get the 18x6 Vess. My 28 is in an 11.5 lb extra, and vertical is unlimited. I dont think a 17x8 will be enough. Nice thing about the Vess is the silence, and no cavitation in a hover. They spool up instantly, and turn faster than any equal size in any other brand I have tried. I have a 15x6 on my Saito 100 in a 60" extra (5.5 to 6 lb), its a rocket out of a hover. Vess 18x6 is like it was made for this engine and 3D.

leepord geko

I don't have enough ground clearance on the yak for a 18x6 especially with a 12lb plane. That landing gear which im sure you know as well as i do that they FLEX, which is actually good. The saito 100 is on a funtana x50 with a zinger 14x8 and pulls badass already so should be better with a real prop considering zingers are the worst around!

Later

jship

My Feedback: (4)

My 28 is in a 15 lb Four Star 120. 17X8 APC is all it will pull. I have run less than two gal through it. Every time I start it I make sure the plug cap is on tight. It needs a lot of choke the first couple minutes of the day.

Jimeni

Dont you have the AW 120 size Yak? I used an 18x6 on mine.

Ralph White

I put a little larger diameter wheel on my Aero-works Yak-54 to get just a little more ground clearance for the 18 x 6 Vess prop. I think they are 3 1/4" or 3 1/2", whichever just fits into the wheel pants. I had to cut the wheel opening a little larger. Works perfect and looks good. I fly out of medium cut grass without a problem.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Put a tie wrap around the plug boot, you really don't want that vibrating.

As for choking, solder or JBWeld the hole in the choke plate shut and it will pull MUCH better when dry.

lindy757

My Feedback: (1)

Jimeni,
I took it to the field today and it started ok with the "slap" method. Hopefully it will be easier to start (without the slap) when it is broken in more. Right now I'm on my 3rd (16oz) tank. Still tinkering with the mixture. Sputtering a lot today. I leaned the high needle and it helped somewhat.

leepord geko

This engine might not do so well in the future considering the release of the new dle 30cc which will swing a 19x8 at 7200rpm just saying unless we get these magical upgrades for the mld i don't think it will ever make as much power.

Later

Ralph White

Leepord geko,
I think that will depend on how the DLE 30 compares as far as physical size and weight. I'm thinking the DLE 30 may by too much or too big for my Aero-works 1.2 Yak-54. It will be interesting to see what happens.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

richard2610

Sorry Ralph, new to this.
My post is directed to Stevenchao.

Need help here.
Mounted MLD 28cc inverted on Akromaster. Fibre Propeller 16x10 (balanced), use unleaded fuel & castrol 2 stroke oil with 1:30. It has 6 tanks running so far (400 cc/ 14 oz).
On my 1 & 2 flight after 3 tanks of break in, engine went off during level flight with 1/3 throttle. Breakin in 2 more tanks. During this, I held it vertical with full throttle & idle, no problem. Take it to the field yesterday. Change fuel composition to 1:45. After 10 minutes of flying, I decided to land it, on idle, engine went off again. Ignition was OK batt fully charge before flight (NiMh 6 volt 2100mA) and uses separate batt for receiver. L needle setting was 2 3/4 turn out and H needle was 2 1/4. On my 1 & 2 flight cowl was not installed, on my last flight I installed it, adjustment made on both needle to reach 7900 RPM.
Is it the needle setting - in comparison to what you guys mention here and in the manual which is 1 3/4 (L) and 2 (H) turn out for both needle - or something else.
Btw, this is my first gasser.


best regards
richard

karolh

Jimeni,

My modelling buddy has a China Model Productions 72" span Yak 54 that he plans on putting a MLD 28 in but would like to know what size Tru Turn spinner would be most suitable for the Xoar 18x6 prop he plans on using.

Karol

Jimeni

A 3" Tru turn looks great on that size Yak. Thats what I used.

karolh

Thanks.

Karol

leepord geko

Well physically its only 2cc bigger but the weight is 38oz which isn't much more actually its only 2-3oz more so really it would be optimal the only thing I hate about the dl Is THE SIDE CARB why can't people make rear carbs like rcgf i mean the mld's is ok because it doesn't stick out that much but if you look at this dl 30cc is like a mountain mole on the side of the engine.

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

If you want a rear carb you could get the 30cc SYSSA GASSER MADE IN THE USA

tele1974

What is the price of the Syssa and the DLE 30?

Scooterpilot

My Feedback: (5)

Here's a link with pic's and there is phone number to contact Syssa Motors

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_88...12/key_/tm.htm

This motor is being flown on a Aero-works 1.2 Yak-54.

CAT POwer

My Feedback: (61)

Syssa @ $420
DLE 30 @ $320 shipped

bjboise406

My Feedback: (1)

Anybody seein any front bearing problems with the MLD 28

Ralph White

bjboise, My MLD-28 seems to have a very small amount of end play and even smaller amount of side play in the prop shaft. I don't know what is acceptable. The engine seems to run perfect turning a Vess 18x6 at about 8200 rpm. I see that bearings are fairly inexpensive, but I don't know what parts are needed besides the bearings if one plans to replace the bearings. Hope someone can give us some info on this subject.
Ralph White, Neoga, IL

rmathews

My Feedback: (1)

Made in the U.S.A. PRICELESS !!

captinjohn

Some engines have room for 2 ball bearings in front. Inner one is non sealed...outer one has seal. If there is room...add another! Capt,n