Mouton

Top speed depends on where you drive it. If it is hard packed and smoth snow it goes really fast. So fast that turning is difficult due to lack of grip. If the snow is somewhat powderlike it still goes fast and turning is still difficult. It then goes like a knife through the snow. It you drive it in deep powder it goes very slow.

Top speed is not an "issue" with this model. Its fun factors lie in other areas. It is onfe of those models that can make pople realise that the highest possible speed is not needed in order to have really, really fun and still experience a challenging drive!

Neverdone

So I got my Blizzard last week and put it together. I was runnin it around and found out that the reverse doesnt work to well. It is really hard for it to go into gear and grinds some on its way into gear. Are there any sugestions? Also is it good to put grease or diff oil in the differential.

Mouton

I use diff oil in mine. It is sealed enough to use diff oil and grease might prove to be to soft, making it pull slightly to the left or right when driving straight.

About your problems with reverse. It sounds like the linkage does not go all the way to fully kick in reverse. There are two possibilities:
1. The linkage is not perfectly set up. Make sure the servo moves the lever all the way back before the other servo arm starts opening the throttle. Keep in mind that servo arm/horn for the pushrod that goes to the QRC-unit needs to be a bit longer than the one that operate the throttle linkage. It might also be that the right lock nut on the throttle pushrod needs to be move slightly to the right.

It can take a while to do this so be patient.

2. The plastic reverse gear is worn. I am not talking about the teeth on the gear but its metal pin seatings. This is more common with used Blizzards. If you take the QRC-unit apart you will find that there are two round metal pins that the gear lever hooks onto on both the reverse and forward gear. With time the plastic around the pins seating gets worn down. What then happens is that the pin sinks into the gear thus making it more difficult for the gear lever to really hook onto those pins. This does not call for new gears as you can fix this with CA-glue. Remove the pin, adda a few drops of CA-glue and put the pin back in place - but only press it down deep enough to be flush with the side of the gear. You do not want it to sit any deeper. Let it dry and then you are good to go.

If you have not done this, use superglue to glue some black thick tape to cover up the hole in the bottom of the QRC unit. It will otherwise let more dirt in than it will let out, thus trashing your gears.

Hope this helps!

773W

My Feedback: (1)

I'v just reciently piced up the electric DF-300 EP, and i must say out of the box its a blast. Its the answer for my winter blues. I'v got about a foot of snow with 2-3 foot high drifts, almost froze my trigger finger solid on the first run.

Neverdone

So I have been playing with my blizzard a little bit even though there is no snow yet. Wont be long though. I cant wait to get some actual snow to try it in. It is much slower than I figured but is a blast to drive. When it hits second gear it is funny because it picks up the front end about 3 inches if it is in the grass. I was wondering has anyone ever tried to make a smoke stack exhaust on a blizzard? I am attempting that right now and was looking for some advice if anyone has tried it.

Neverdone

I also have LED headlights I am going to mount on the top.

kought

Hey all!!

I have the Kyosho Blizzard DF-300 Nitro. I bought it off ebay, and they guy had basically built everything except the cab. I love it, it works great. Especially on our ice. (We have a good sized pond, and last year my dad plowed the ice with his F-350.) Only one problem: When you start it, it makes a cringing grinding noise, like one of the gears on the trans is slipping. If you rev it up slightly, so its not moving, it goes away. Also it makes the sound for a second when shifting into second or reverse. Also it slips in reverse. I was hoping one of you guys could help me with this problem, or maybe its something im doing wrong. Hopefully a simple fix? Also I'm thinking about a plow, and hope to put on some fenders and head/tail lights.

Thanks a bunch,

Andrew

zjwhitrock

can you take some pics with the body off maby??

kought

Yes, I cant right now, but I will on wednesday. If theres something specific you think I should take a picture of, I will.

Thanks much,

Andrew

rickster3057

Hi Kought, just read your grinding problem, its the forward/reverse transmission selecter.
The throttle servo also controls the selecter for forward and reverse, the grinding noise is the gear select arm either to far forward or back semi-engageing the drive gears.Lift the back cover off check the tranny and there should be a bar with a slider, turn your tranmitter on ,the carb on the motor should be on idle and the drive selecter should be central. if not just adjust the rod that moves the selecter it has two collets for adjustment, if anything set it so it is toward forward select that way when you get full revs you get a little more forward speed,hope that helps.
Rick.

rickster3057

just read through the thread, i fitted an OS 15 LDX big block to my last nitro blizzard ,took a bit of work the throttle linkage had to be altered thriugh a 45 degree servo arm, and i had to cut and mount an aluminium plate before i could mount the engine,i used silicone exhaust tubing to extend under the top plate to mount the tuned exhaust underneath, the extra distance between the motor and tuned pipe never made any difference to the engine performance,it had so much torque in first gear and in second gear it used to outrun my HPI electric truck, 40mph at least, the only problem i had was the drive chains stretching. I still have the engine and a new blizzard so who knows i may fit it again, as for it being a pullstart motor you cut a hole in the front cab and use rotostart sytem mine worked fine and started easier.
Rickster.

kersplat

I have the Blizzard DF 300. I see that people are having trouble with the drive chains and tracks stretching? I have almost 1/2 a gallon of fuel through mine and the tracks and chains are as good as when I first built the machine. I believe my secret is setting the second gear not to shift into. Also I am running the engine with 5% nitro and running it rich enough so the machine goes at a smooth walking pace. It seems more realistic this way and the engine sounds like a turbo diesel this way.

Mouton

Driving it slow will naturally help reduce wear. However, driving it in very loose powder snow will require full throttle and second gear (to maintain walking pace), so I think it is best to have it se up so that it can use second gear as well.

I believe many have problems because they actually did not build it properly. Thread lock on the collets that help tension the belt is an absolute must.

brel

I have an electric Blizzard and have posted in this thread about it from page 44 onwards.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_66...tm.htm#6690636

johnb16a2

Hi,

I've been reading up on the Blizzard and I really like it and I'm leaning towards the current Nitro version. My reasoning is as follows: I've been on hiatus from R/C for a long time so I don't have the high powered battery packs, the charger, motor, or the ESC that most folks agree make the EV Blizzard much better. So therefore compared to the EP version the buy in would be less for the nitro. OK so I'm leaning toward to nitro version and I'm aware the nitro version is riddled with faults so my question is are they really that bad? I'm mechanically inclined so I'm not put off by maintenace. I've read the engine leaks oil, is every run accompanied by an oily mess?Any experiences with the nitro version will be appreciated!

Cheers,
John

rc-junkyard

Are the Blizzards still in production or have any of them been discontinued??

Are the Nitro versions difficult to tune in the cold winter weather???

Is there any difference between the 2 nitro versions other than the body's different???

SeaWolf316

never had a problem in the winter with my nitro blizzard.... only thing that sucks about the nitro blizzard is the pull start always gets coated with spent fuel.....

rc-junkyard

If the pull starter is getting covered with fuel, it could be one of the engine bearings leaking. Especially if the engine is really rich the fuel looks for anyplace to escape. But you said "spent" fuel, usually all that junk comes out the end of the exhaust.


Anyone know if the blizzards come with bearings at all???

Lins

I can't remember what it had. I'll try to remember to look after work. I know there are ceramic bearing upgrades available.

rc-junkyard

Boca bearings has all kinds of sets for it. Just depends on how much you want to spend. $33 for econo 98 for greenseals approx. ^ for ceramics

Cross

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com/istar...x=0&submit.y=0

They say on order, if you call them they can tell you a date when they are expected to have them. When i went to order on it was less than a week before they got them and could ship mine out.

rc-junkyard

Yeah, but there still sold outta the electric ones there. The electric ones are getting harder to find.

Cross

I ordered a electric Blizzard and it was less than a week before they would have it and ship it out to me. I then canceled my order because I decided to build my own 1/10th scale snow cat from scratch.

It never hurts to actually call them and see what the status "on order" means.

theLane

My Feedback: (1)

My Nitro Blizzard is on it's way - yah! So, how many people here still have/using their's? Hard to find a real active forum for these. I guess they are not that popular.

~Lane

nomobux

My Feedback: (4)

There are a few. I'm sure they'll chime in. May take a while as it is a long week-end holiday here. Subscribe for any posts via email or check back.