robonave

The more I use the 2.4 GHz radio (but I have only Turborix system) the more I am convinced of its advantages, so I have decided to buy more Rx for my many models and leave the FM systems in particular after a few disastrous interference I have had recently; the only problem with Turborix receiver is for its dimension, 2 receiver and rather big compared to the smaller FM one is a installation problem on smaller models (weight too).
Does anybody knows what alternative RX, possibly smaller and lighter, are compatible with Turborix system?

congoharrison

You can use only the main receiver, just unplug the satellite Rx but be aware that the redundancy and reception will be compromised. The case from the Rx could be removed to save weight, maybe heatshrink it instead or just leave it exposed, they are cheap enough to take a risk with.

happy-dingo

Hi Congoharrison, was just wondering if you have had any thing to do with setting up the T6 for Helli's ???

congoharrison

I did set up a couple of small helis with the T6 radio, Twister CP Gold and a Walkera 60. The radio is suitable.

I haven't flown the helis for quite some time, so I'm a little vague on remembering the setups I used, however,
I do remember that I had difficulty getting the Gyro sensitivity tweaked on a rotary knob or switch. I believe now
that the cheap gyros I used were the problem. I eventually overcame this problem by fitting better tail servos,
giving much better control over the tail in the first place.

Both of my T6 fitted choppers are not flying now due to minor repairs being required, and a lack of enthusiasm
on my part because I'm having a lot of fun with my fixed wing aircraft lately. I seemed to be spending more time
maintaining helis than flying them.... so having a bit of a break from them for now.

Also, what successes I did have with my small choppers came from upgrading all the electronics in them, motors,
esc's, servos, radio etc. The stock electronics and customer support for them (faulty units/warranty support) are terrible.

I just never had the spare cash to fork out for a decent gyro :P

You need to use a pitch gauge to set up the swash etc, don't worry about other peoples numbers.
Pitch- You want -10, 0, +10 for 3D mode..... maybe -3, +5, +10 for normal flight.
The +5 normal mode setting at mid throttle should be whatever value it takes to achieve hover at recommended Rotor RPM.
You don't have to use these numbers, they are only a guide. The goal is to maintain a reasonably constant headspeed
through most of the throttle stick movement range.
You don't want to load the rotors so much that RPM drops off when you gas it, nor do you want the headspeed to drop away
too much when you reduce rotor pitch for descent, if you do, you lose control and get tailswings or other unexpected results
that could crash you.

Care needs to be taken to get the throttle and pitch curves right, it's trial and error.
Normal and 3D modes are quite different of course, everything has to be set twice and don't make mistakes
by setting up things in the wrong mode (ie. make sure you are altering settings for the correct flight mode).

The travel on the linkages and servos is critical, you can't set everything perfectly on the radio settings alone.
I found that I had to set things on the heli so that I could get the pitch travel ranges I needed.

It is quite possible to set a heli up with 3D/Normal flight mode switches, dual rate and gyro control with a T6 Tx.
Swash type must be correct of course.

To be honest, I can't even remember how to get the tail centred properly right now, I need a refresher course!
But that little exercise is both simple and critical to the chopper's operation.
Suffice to say, that it partly involved loosening the tail servo mount screws, and moving the servo SLIGHTLY along the tail boom
until I had center trim. On my choppers, this was a very fine adjustment.

I found setting up a chopper correctly is challenging, but it's also a satisfying exercise and it gives you a pretty good understanding
of your machine and how it works. Make sure you keep backups of your config files!

robonave

Do you have an idea of the range without the satellite Rx? The problem with the receivers is weight but sometimes dimension for internal mountings too; if the satellite could be removed this can be possibly sufficient.

happy-dingo

Heya congoharrison
MM its a great value for money TX/rx system I like it even betterthan the 2.4 one i have is on my 4G1b walkera as its not programable and all the other radio system's that I have are fm,

I got the turborix for a plane that im building originally (still building) but the fm Tx on the #36 shat its self so i put it in that so that i could keep attemping to fly it ( like you most my time and money is spent fixing the helli's ) .... Im gonna buy more of the T6 rx's and fit them to all my planes and helli's (although im gonna slowly sell the helli's and just keep one at this point my fav is the #60 as it flys the nicest, and ive just ordered cnc mettal upgrade for it).

I think that ive solved the puzzle about the tail spin .... like you said up grade the gryo and also bigger tail blades so it pushes more air ... the one that are on there atm are very small.

I run my pitch at o, +5, +11. As for 3D i dont think i'll ever get to that point at least not on purpose any way...
Im learning slowly by playing around how to adjust the setting via the T6 but i think the gryo and tail are gonna be the hardest to sort out... nothing like jumping in the deep end

Have fun

Dingo

congoharrison

The theoretical range "should" be the same with one receiver, but one antenna can be "blocked" by object interference as the signal is more or less line of sight. The antenna would need to be oriented so that it is exposed to the signal effectively.
I would like to point out that a very expensive RTF 3D helicopter, the Pixie Zap, only comes with one Rx (no satellite Rx) and this radio. I have never seen this heli lose reception or crash due to signal loss, but that heli is usually flown close in due to it's small size.

congoharrison

The standard tail rotor should be sufficient, I suspect your headspeed is too low to give the tail rotor enough rpm to be effective,
I am assuming the heli in question is belt driven. This means you need a larger drive pinion, if your motor will handle it, or a new
motor/esc/pinion setup with a battery good enough to power it all.

As I stated before, stock setups on cheaper rtf helis are usually poor, requiring heavy modification to get the best from them.
This is why the T-rex's of the heli world are popular, because they work well out of the box.
There are cheap base kits available, but you still need half decent electronics or you'll still be crashing a lot or struggling to fly.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idCategory=320

There is nothing wrong with a properly set up Walkera #60 ...... but a T-rex or compatible clone probably makes better sense.
I chose the Walkera #60 simply because it was cheaper at the time, but that has changed.

I've found that helis are hard on lipos as well. Lipo cost needs to be considered as larger or heavier helis require better/more expensive batteries.
Otherwise, I would simply recommend any new electric heli pilot choose a 500 size electric like the one in the link above.
The most fun per dollar I've had is with my small, modified Twister CP Gold, it's lightweight and has a small powerful motor and uses small batteries that
give long flight times.

This cheap little motor is an awesome upgrade for a Walkera #60 ..... the high KV probably suits an 11 or 12 tooth pinion. I have been using 13 and 14 teeth
and they produce too much headspeed and ridiculous power. I thought that I've seen that motor in a lower KV, 3600-3800kv would be better for a non 3D pilot perhaps.

robonave

I will try without th satellite on a "quiet" model, if that is right will try on the hottiest mini...I will let you know.

sama

So is this radio good for someone that just wants to fly two simple planes? I have a glider and a tigermoth. I also have a laptop so no problem there.

congoharrison

There is another inexpensive radio made by the same company, it's only 4 channels and it is not programmable.
That 4ch radio is only a few dollars less money, so hardly worth the saving when this radio gives you a lot more options to play with.
The same Rx is used for either radio, so no savings there either. (the Rx's are cheap anyway)

happy-dingo

fpshell

Greetings...

Programming question removed. Problem Solved!!!

Sincerely,
Fred

rgphoenix

Hello again from Phoenix,
Family matters have kept me involved for the past several months and I haven’t been able to pilot my Wing Dragon for some time. Being a grandfather has its
responsibilities. Now it seems that once again the Wing Dragon is up a tree. I’m having
problems programming the transmitter from the PC. The Turborix transmitter operates
the Wing Dragon control surfaces and engine speed flawlessly, but I can’t get the t6config
program to communicate with the transmitter When I open the program, the com number is set to com 2. After changing it to com 3, the program and transmitter still won’t communicate. Opening the Setting window again reveals that it’s still set to com 2.
I’ve tried connecting the USB cable directly to the com port on the PC using a
Com/USB adapter without loading the serial adapter program. I’ve tried changing the
com numbers in the PC bios setup program and also in the Device Manager under
Windows XP Pro using both service packs 1 and 3. I’ve also tried changing the IRQ
number in Device Manager. Before any changes were made, both the t6config and serial
driver programs were removed from the PC and reloaded after making the change to be
sure the programs were setup with the new settings. No matter what I try, the results are the same. The t6config program will not accept a com number change from the Setting window. The USB connector cable looks OK and the pins measure continuity from end to end. This leads me to believe that the malfunction may be in my Turborix transmitter.
Before I open up the transmitter and really mess things up, can anyone tell me if the transmitter needs to connected to the PC and switched on before the t6config program will accept a change to the com setting? This information will be helpful in locating the fault in my system.
Thanks from rgphoenix

congoharrison

The Tx needs to be connected and turned on to choose a com port.

I read somewhere that the PC doesn't even need a true com port for the T6config program to work.

I was under the impression that I needed different versions of the PL2303 driver for different OS's. But I cannot remember those details.

I "think" that the latest version works on Vista/Win7/XP.

I've failed to get T6config to work on several PC's or laptops, I'm just lucky it works on my main PC.

Perhaps the cable is suspect despite a continuity check or maybe its simply the wrong cable. HobbyKing sold them for a while.
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...for_Win2000/XP

rgphoenix

Thanks for your reply congoharrison. I ordered the USB cable you
pointed me to at Hobby King. I’ll try the new cable before digging around
inside the transmitter. I fear I would do more harm than good in there.
Judging from your response, I suspect that, for whatever reason, the
transmitter’s signal is not reaching the PC. If I had access to basic radio
testing equipment, it would be a relatively simple task to trace the signal path.
Things being as they are, I can only attempt to solve this problem by replacing
components. Next item on the list is the transmitter itself. Luckily, its not in
the Futaba price range.

rgphoenix

Hello from Phoenix,
My faith in humanity has been restored. T6config is up and
operating successfully. Thanks to congoharrison its running again.
The new USB cable you pointed me to at Hobby King worked out just
fine. Now I can think about setting up flaperons on a new model.
While I’m at it, I’d like to thank everyone who responded to my
first post when the Wing Dragon was up a tree. I was away and unable
to answer. Thanks for your response abbydawn, congoharrison, and robonave.

rgphoenix

fpshell

Greetings...

Does anyone know if the Turborix 2.4 can be programmed on Windows 7???

Thanks...

Fred

patrickleze

Hi,
I have this turborix radio 2.54 Ghz, with 8 receiver (for 8 models)
I'm 100% satisfied with this cheap radio.
It have some inconvenients, as need a computer to program it, means you need to bring your computer to the field if you want to change program, the receiver is in 2 parts.
I've tried, prior to use, the distance from the modl it's stop receiving, it is around 400m wit the model on the ground, and transmitter in my hands.

but for the price, you cannot ask the same performance than another that will cost 400$. Just care to use it in it's limits.

and the seller is 100% ok .. fast shipping, fast answer to the questions, and doing it's best to furnish me all what I need.

have good time

Patrick

congoharrison

So far I haven't been able to do it, so if anyone knows how to get it working, please post.


__________________________________________________ ________________________


I've had some range anomalies with the model on the ground, but rest assured the radio is capable of
transmitting long distances. I've used it on large gliders out to around an estimated 600-800m with no
problems, and I think others have tested out over 1km with success.

I only buy the receivers that have the long whisker antennas now. This allows for more versatile
antenna placement.

Congo

congoharrison

If anyone is interested.........

T6config program update:

I was able to run the T6config utility successfully on Windows 7 x64bit.

It seems there are two different cables being shipped. One works in Vista/Win 7, the other works on Win XP.
I didn't realise there were two different cable types before now.

The last two transmitters I bought were for friends and their cables "didn't work" on my Windows XP system.

I tried the new cables on Windows 7 and the T6config program now works on that OS.

I also found newer versions of T6config and the driver for Vista/Win7.

Five of our RC club members now own a total of six FS-T6A radios, all working without issues so far.

Images are some of the planes I'm flying with this cheap radio.

VolgClawtooth

Newb query. I run little RC robotics competitions and am looking for a n RC setup I can put together to allow 6 teams to each control a different bot. Could I do so with 6 sets of the HK-T6A/HK-TR6A units?

abbydawn

Yes you can and more if you wish. You might want to consider the HK-7X which has programmable features that may be needed for your application.

VolgClawtooth

Iwould be inclined to agree with you.. but the 'robots' in question are very simple. Icould easily get by with 3 channels each (contestant teams use my Lego collection to build 2lb 'robots' during a 4 hour session). Also the LEGOmedium enforces it's own limitations somewhat as well as the time and weight restrictions.. if you like, here's some footage:

http://www.youtube.com/VolgClawtooth/
I'll be posting additional RCnewbie questions once Ifinish formulating them properly. Just 2 -3 though.

roders47

Hello I have a Turborix 2.4 ghz 3rd generation system that has only the RX (not the add on unit) with a 26cm aerial wire.
The TX works fine with the computer program and I can change the settings no problem and the TX appears to BOND to the RX no problems.

My problem is :-
on the computer the channel listing is:-
1.Ailerons
2. Elevator
3.Throttle
4. Rudder
5. VrA- disabled (my choice)
6. VrB- disabled (my Choice)

However on the RX these are the channels:-

1. nothing but servo BUZZ
2. nothing
3. nothing
4. Rudder - LH stick
5. Throttle - LH Stick
6. Elevator - RH Stick

I am only using this radio for a3 channel glider ( Elevator/Rudder with electric motor control on throttle)but would like to use Aileron (in this case Rudder)& Elevator on the 1 stick with throttle on the other stick. At the moment I have Elevator on the RH stick, no Aileron & throttle and rudderon LH stick. This works OK but not to my likening. HOW do I get the RX to respond to the TX as it does on the computer program??

I have just fitted a 3s 2200mah 11.1v LiPo pack to the TX as the dry cells depleted very quick. Was an easy mod requiring the cut out of the plastic tray that the normal batteries sit on and just glueing some plastic strips on the side of the batery pack so that it wont fall down onto the PC board and of course change the original leads on the battery to normal JR type plugs. TX in the green after 2 hours of testing.

Thanks Rod