Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Here is a link for the CM-6 at a good price.

http://www.quickieparts.com/spark-pl...w-engines.html


Thanks for the gap info. Here are some photo's of the 28 on the UltraStick. Made a Box out of 1/16 ply for the carb clearance. Cut the top of the fuse off and made a hatch with added ply support to the firewall and the first former. Pinned the firewall. Ignition module mounted with foam on top and bottom. SmartFly fiber optic kill switch.


Pete

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

[email protected] Bob, that site for plugs is GREAT, their price is $1.97 for NGK CM6 and I paid $6 @ a Advance Auto!!

Tseres

My local flying buddies came through in a pinch. Thanks Eugene and Vanguard. My other buddy Bob Parker Who don't have a handle also e-mailed me.

Bob Petrozello. I knew you would know where to get them from. That is a great price. How many comes in a box. At that price that is the only way to order them.

Thanks to all. You are all great help.

I got a fortune cookie the other day. It said: Better days are ahead. My struggles are over. I taped this on the spar tube in my plane. I hope fortune cookies don't lie.[sm=lol.gif]

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

At boats.net it's "ea". A "box" has 10. Even running twins, that is enough for a VERY long time...particularly if one is tuning the engine properly.
I'm glad you got a plug and the fortune cookie. Let's hope both work for you!

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Tseres, Old TOM, WOW, I'll have to get myself a fortune cookie-I need something like that to help me.-Ha

AJsToyz

Let me know what your plane weighs in at when your done.

Andy

Tseres

Right now with the 62 and the Pitts muffler on my digital fish scale, its 18lb even. I don't trust this figure cause I'm not really sure about zeroing it. It measured zero with and without the rope to hang the plane with. But I can measure the difference of the engine change to the 56 and I'm also going to a C/F Spinner with the 56. That all should reduce the weight close to 1lb.

AJsToyz

Tom,

Shouldn't you be flying ?? I screwed up and missed my window, and now have to go to Norwalk to pick up a different kind of bird. My wife bought a couple of white Peafowl and they need a lift home.

Andy

Tseres

Yup. Getting ready to leave in a half hour.

Tseres

Fortune cookie is working so far. 3 flights nothing bad to report. I must not have hurt anything when I burned up the plug. Got 7,300+ rpm with the same set up.
I still don't like the idle. It shakes too much. Tried leaning the low end but it's still shakes to much for my liking at 1900rpm. Maybe it needs more break in to smooth out.

diceco

This post reports my recent experience with rc aero product's Aerovate 28, the product, and rc aero products llc, the company. Unfortunately my experience has been poor on both subjects.

I ordered my A28 because of the advertised performance on a spec sheet found on their web site http://www.zrcgf.com/ for that motor; and the perception that the company, rc aero products llc, was reputable, and responsive to it's customers. The A28 is a new motor that is touted by the company to be designed by them and manufactured in China to their specifications and under their control. I received the motor promptly.

Before I ran the motor I checked the timing. It was way off, 18 deg static advance. I know from experience that most of these motors with RCEXL ignitions get set at 28-30 deg static advance. There was no information about this on the rcap web site and there was no printed information included with the motor. An email to Henry Zwolak at rcap confirmed that it should be set at 29 deg (and he included a comment that it could have been "bumped" in shipment. I don't think so).

I mounted the motor; it started and ran, VERY POORLY. All it could manage was 6200 rpm with an APC 18x6W prop. I contacted Henry and he informed me that they had found a few motors with the piston installed 180 deg off, ie. backwards. He told me how to check this and sent detailed instructions on how to fix it. The A28 that I got sure enough had the piston installed backwards, but when I took it apart to fix the problem I noted that the piston was perfectly symmetrical with the exception of the ring locating pins. I had no hope, therefor, that there would be any change in the performance of the motor, and there wasn't. What now?

From simple observation the Aerovate 28 is not a fully integrated design. It is made up of a machined aluminum crankcase, a nice looking pyramid style reed valve, a cantilevered style crankshaft, a beefy looking connecting rod, a cast aluminum piston, and an off the shelf cylinder with a side intake port! The side intake port has been blanked off with a simple plate, gasket, and screws to hold it in place. (I've read that the Aerovate 26, in it's first release, had this cylinder configuration and was a distinct under performer. It later came with a cylinder that was made for a rear carb intake ie. no blanked off side intake port, and performed much better).

Even more alarming is that the piston top falls below the top edge of the blanked off intake port at BDC (bottom dead center, the bottom of the piston stroke)! This compromises the whole combustion cycle because the trapped exhaust product is introduced into the crankcase, via the side intake port volume, as the piston travels up and uncovers the side intake port on the intake stroke. Now not only do you have the extra volume of the blanked off side intake port to dilute the fresh intake charge but now it's tainted by exhaust product as well! It's no wonder to me that the motor hardly runs.

In one last attempt to understand the problem Henry claims that they found a problem with a few of the spark plugs that are shipped with the motors. I've never seen a spark plug cause this much performance deficit without a distinct misfire. The motor I had ran very smoothly, no hint of a misfire. It just didn't give any power no matter what I did in the way of carburetor adjustments.

Now the most disappointing part. I sent the motor back to rcap and asked Henry for a refund, to which he agreed, but in spite of repeated reminders via email, phone calls and PM's, some of which went unanswered, I've not gotten my refund. It's been one month (30 days) and still no refund. I've come to the conclusion at this point that Henry and rc aero products don't make refunds and customer satisfaction a priority. Henry keeps telling me he will send me a refund but I haven't gotten one. Thirty days is certainly long enough to wait for a refund for a defective product!

Anyone considering a gas motor in the 25-30cc size should stay clear of the Aerovate 28. It's design is a cobbled up amalgam of some nice components and a terribly mismatched off-the-shelf cylinder.

I would advise also to not conduct any business with rc aero products llc. In spite of an appearance of a mature company with good technical knowledge and good customer support my experience has been completely opposite.

diceco

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Tom - have you set the idle to the point where it hesitates on rapid throttle up, then backed off just a bit rich from there....the 62 is kind of a thumper. Be sure to adjust when fully warmed up.

Glad you had good flights. No muffler loosening or any issues???

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

-

Tseres

No I didn't go that far on idle. I forgot you told me about that. Puny brain.
I was having to flip it two more times to start it than usual. I was thinking that it was far enough. Now that I think of it again, I did see some smoke when transitioning. I just taught it was to cold out.

karolh

Diceco also posted in the current RCGF engines thread and you can see Henry's response there.

Karol

iliveonlytocrash

My Feedback: (1)

Where did you get the carbon fibre landing gear. I would like to get one like that for my ultrastick.

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

The Carbon fiber gear is from Graphtech

http://www.graphtechrc.com/

They make a set for the H9 Ultrastick but I had them "customize" mine by making it 2 in wide at the fuse and 1/2 in taller to get prop clearance. The quality is super. I have had Graphtech gear on my GP 1/4 Patty Extra 300 and they have held up well.




Hope my A28 runs better than Diceco's will post when I get it running. Having some trouble getting the throttle pushrod and it's geometry working well.

Pete

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

Rockedman612, Would you post some photos of your carb when its set up.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Pete - did you replace the stock throttle arm with a 3/16" steering arm after removing it? Or use the Hitec servo blue alum. arm, drilled and tapped for set screw to hold it? In your pics further up, you still have the stock arm on there, and that will never work PROPERLY, providing you level of sensitivity to throttle movement that you need to effectively control a gas airplane engine. That super-short "arm" is useless for trying to manage very small incremental movements. Remember gas carbs have horrible non-linearity, are basically designed to Idle and go full power, and anywhere in between to perceive changes in power, we need very fine resolution.

Resolution comes with "distance from shaft center", similar to a servo. On servos, best resolution (smallest steps of movement) occur closer to the shaft...on the "control end", (throttle shaft), you need distance away from the shaft to permit finer control.

Not saying you HAVEto do this way, it's just the BEST way to assure control of a gasser carb.

See my sticky post at the top of the gas engines sub-forum there's a part in there about modifying arms and linkages.

AJsToyz

Bob,

Never say never !! I did leave the return spring on mine because of the play in the arm, I just took it back a couple of holes to lighten it up. It works fine no problems have full range on the throttle. I do have a computer type radio so with the adjustments in the transmitter it does work properly.

Andy

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

I edited my post to provide the explanation needed to justify modifying the arm to improve the carb performance. It is fact.

AJsToyz

Bob,

I don't fly 3D or IMAC and my plane is heavy , works fine for this one. If I had more arms I would get a video to show you but its usually just me flying !!

Andy

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

No explanation needed, Andy. If what you've got works for you, that's all that counts.

AJsToyz

Rocketman612

My Feedback: (85)

Bob and Andy,


I agree with Bob about the short arm on this carb. An additional issue with the A28 is how the choke plate works. The choke is on a spring and the throttle arm moves back to hold it closed. The choke is released by advancing the throttle. If you change the position of the throttle arm for better geometry with the pushrod it messes up the choke hold. My other walbro carbs have a ball in the shaft the choke plate is attached to that locks it in the closed and open position.

Here are pictures of the setup with the choke closed and open. I released the spring on the throttle arm and it's moving much better. as Bob posted I was getting an ALL or NONE response. Another issue is the level of the ball link with the choke closed and when at idle it's below the axis of rotation of the throttle arm and needs some up and forward motion to move it. Again if it wasn't for the choke /carb arm interaction none of this would be a problem.

Have a few more tricks to try and will post the winning option.

Pete