GSAV8R

My Feedback: (79)

Cool! Good luck.

Baldeagle

My Feedback: (7)

Anyone flying these yet? Thanks Rich

sthone

Not yet, I think everyones waiting untill winter to put them together

-Steve

sthone

Well I started to put this thing together and I was going to wait until I got a little more accomplished before posting anything but I'm only on the second step and I'm all ready running into issues so I thought I'd give others a heads up.

Basically I got the Ailerons glued on (after changing out the supplied CA hinges) and moved on to the servo installation. I don't think full size standard servos are going to fit in the wing (even though that's what they look to be cut out for), unless blocking them up is common practice? (see picture below) I planned on using standard servos in the wings and nose gear and mini/micro for everything else but now it looks like I have to buy a few more minis and run them on everything.

Anyway I'll be doing a full build thread on this plane but don't want to post to many pictures here so if anyone wants to see more check out my site. http://home.comcast.net/~thoneshanger/

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

Maybe a thin wing servo would work better for you?

http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-125mg_slim-wing.html

Carlos Murphy

My Feedback: (72)

Or mount your servos on their sides.

LEM

A smaller servo in the wing should work fine. I have gotten away with it on several. I don’t have the flying skill to push things to the max - so your call. Easy to get hung up on little details. When was the last time someone turned your plane upside down, to see if a servo stuck out? In the air, they can’t see it anyway --

I have done several of the China Models. They are all well built, but you always have to hack something. If you are going to use “Z” bends on any push rods, replace all of them. They almost always crack at the bend and will fail.

The other thing I would replace is the EZ connectors. They use a nut, instead of a push on clip, on the back side. The nut always falls off.
I tired finger nail polish on the threads and it didn’t work either.
If you use them - LOCKTIGHT the threads.

About power. Electric is the only way to go on a twin. No dreaded engine out. If you go with fuel, try taxi on the ground, with one engine, and then the other. You will find that one side works great. ( you may not have enough to take off, so don’t try! ) The other side is a nightmare! It is worse in the air.
Loose the good side, and it will roll so fast you may not correct. ( if it is even possible ) Anything over half power with a dead engine, is a guaranteed crash.
If both engines aren’t 100 % don’t fly!
If you are going to do it anyway. Put the questionable engine on the bad side.
The engines don’t have to be in perfect synch, to fly. The only important thing is that neither quits running.

Yep! I learned all of this the Hard Way --

My last twin was a China Model P-38. Did it electric, and it is a dream to fly! The C-119 shouldn’t be any different --

LEM

PS My C-119 is in the box, waiting for winter. Going to be fun.
Of course I will steal toy soldiers from the Grandson, and do parachute drops out the back ---

sthone

I thought about laying the servos over but it would require opening up the wing which I'm not interested in doing. I woke up early today and was able to fit the mini servo in there, it doesn't look perfect but like you said you can't see it in the air.

I haven't even looked at the hardware that came with the kit yet, so I'm not sure whats in the bag.

I am planning on going glow, the only reason is I need something different and I want the challenge. But I'll will take your advice on the taxi and engine testing. I too plan on doing the para drop I was thinking boxes but the toy soldiers sounds better

-Steve

Here's one servo completed.

mugenkidd

My Feedback: (94)

BS, I've seen it happen in person, you can have an electric engine out. And I've seen at least two different video's on youtube of electrics having an engine out. One had a fried esc and the other guy said that the motor went bad, yes it was a brushless (look up the thread on the nitroplanes B-25). So yes electric is an alternative, but it's not 100% fool proof. It is easier however if you don't know how to properly tune an engine. I honestly haven't had a deadstick in one of my glow planes for about 2 years, and the last one I had was my own fault, I could here the engine going lean, but I was having too much fun to land. To each his own, but telling somone electric is the "only" way to go is going to far, electric maybe some peoples sliced bread, but it's not everybodies.

mugenkidd

My Feedback: (94)

electric twin crash due to an "engine out" on take off.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W_rmkkUHpL4

LEM

Yep - you are right! Nothing is 100 % fool proof!
There must be at least 300 ways,
to screw anything up.
Gravity always wins in the end -
Just have fun before it gets you --

LEM

gator8287

Has anyone put one in the air yet

LEM

Should have mine in the air - couple weeks - If I don't get side tracked again.
Will be electric - Got to string a bunch of wire, do the landing gear.
Trying to set it up to do heavy drops out the back.

LEM

Oly

LEM,
I used to drop a lot of cargo out the back of C-119's for the Fire Service in Alaska. Fun stuff, you can really put out big bundles when you take the clam shell doors off.

Let us know how the air drops go...

Oly

gator8287

would love to see your set up especially the drop mechanics and electrics am going to do mine electric also. just ordered it 2min ago.

gromitvt10

My Feedback: (19)

Nice, i get to see Boxcars delivering stuff everyday out here in Iraq. Thinking about getting one.

Kyle

LEM

Sorry I haven’t answered. Got a break in the weather and went flying.
Winter returned and it’s back on the bench.
Not the greatest arf, I have done. Well built, but several things need changed. Of course, I hack a lot of things that could be left as is.
Directions are terrible as usual.
Motors are C3536 ( 2814 ) from United Hobbies - China
Controllers 30 or 40 amp - which ever I have at the time.
Will use a separate BEC for the receiver to handle the extra servos.
Should have motor power to spare.
Batteries will be 2200 3 cells. One for each motor.
Have tried every configuration for two motors. Doesn’t seem to make any difference. One controller will always shut a motor off, before the other one.
Just don’t push the batteries that far.

Servos will be mostly 9 gram. Maybe one standard for the front wheel, and maybe the elevator. Will do pull -pull on the elevator, but with one servo on the side, instead of the center. Need to keep the center open for the heavy drops.
Rudders will be push rods as in the directions.

Aileron servos were added to weak sheeting on the wings. Re-enforced
The sheeting, mounted the servos on doors that will screw over the holes.
( mounted on their side)

The horizontal stab is a problem, to break down the plane. Have the same problem with a P-38.
I glued a piece of flat thin metal to the bottom of each end, and then bent it to fit the contour of the tail stinger. Two screws into the stinger on each side hold the stab in the hole. ( simple right angle metal )
Still trying wondering if I should glue the wing tips in, or make them removable. No win either way. Solid wing, everything needs to be broken down. Remove the tips, and it still takes up half the house.

The cowl and tail of the center fuselage will need easy removal. Back for heavy drops, front to change batteries. Made another bulk-head for each, same shape as the ends of the fuse. Glued them into the plastic, will use magnets to hold both ends on. No screws to loose.

I gutted the center section up to the second bulk-head from the nose.
Will sheet the floor and sides ( inside ) to keep any thing from hanging up with the drops.
Still thinking of ways to hold stuff inside that will be dropped.
Think a simple pin sticking out the back ( rear clam shell removed)
Rubber band stretched over the load, and forward to a simple servo tow release. When released, the rubber band will fly free out the back, and the load should slide out ( I HOPE! )

Looks like it will balance with the batteries in the floor behind the front wheel.

No idea how to post pictures. Can email them if you want photos.

That is the plan for now. No doubt, most of it may need changing.

LEM

Oly

LEM,
On the full scale C-119, we removed the clam shells, installed roller track on the floor and the pilot would give it nose up on the kick command. The cargo would roll out the back on it's own as the pilot pushed the throttles up (and giving it some up elevator). We did use a 'cut strap' to keep the cargo from rolling out prematurely and blocks in front of the cargo load to keep it from rolling forward. Crude, but effective.

I know you can't use roller track, but a smooth, slick cargo floor might work. I don't know how you would 'cut' the load loose. You may have to think on this a while. I will too, and let you know if I come up with any ideas...

Oly

Oly

gomitvt10,
I didn't know anyone was still flying the 119's. Blackwater, on contract? Another contractor? I would appreciate any info on this.

Thanks,

Oly

LEM

Oly,
Will use a simple angle block, with either velcro or double stick tape, to prevent shifting to the front.
Can move it forward or back to balance.
Rubber band will hook on a pin at the bottom of the rear ( clam shells removed - open in the back)
Rubber band goes over the load, and hooks to a servo in the floor, front of the load.
Servo trips, rubber band fly's over the load and falls away from the hook.
Will use 2 mill corplastic to sheet the floor and walls. Very slick stuff!
Servo has a short push rod, that goes through two blocks of wood, with a space between.
Servo pulls the wire back, and releases a loop of string, or in this case the rubber band.
They use the same idea for tow release, when towing gliders.
There must be a better idea, but that is all I can think of.

LEM

PS I thought the C-119's went away many years ago -- The one's I jumped out of had been transfered to Reserve Units, and were in poor condition. That was about three life times ago ---

gromitvt10

My Feedback: (19)

OLY,
I asked about the Boxcars, its some foreign company that fly's them. But no one seems to know from what country or what company. They just stop, drop some stuff off and takeoff again, i don't think they ever stay for more than an hour or so here. Sorry.

Kyle

LEM

Update on the C-119 Arf Electric.
New discovery about brush-less motor controllers.
My plan was to use two electric motors, controllers inside the nacelles behind the fire-wall. Power, two lipo packs, in the nose of the Fuselage.
That little project required 27 inches of heavy wire from the battery packs to the controller.
Learned the hard way, that is a NO -NO!

Do Not extend the power wires between the battery and controller.
There are several posts on this website and RC Groups that explain the problem, but bottom line, you will blow controllers as fast as you can put them in.

The other problem with my great idea, was no easy access to the controllers.
One controller got very hot and died. The other one, exploded and burned.
No easy way to get at the controller, so I got to watch it smoke for quite a while. Don’t think the smell will ever go away -

New plan. Cut access doors on the bottom, behind the motors, battery and controller will go directly behind the motor. ( each side )

Should have it in the air when the new controllers arrive.
My hack jobs are beginning to get ugly ---

LEM

v22

My Feedback: (8)

Lem
Interesting build ...keep us posted ,,,no matter how bad the mod cuts are looking

philbel

Hi all,
any of you have flown the Boxcar?
I just began building it... here is my setup:
35-36 1300kv brushless (Turnigy)
40a escs
4000 3s lipo
The question is: will it fly?????????

LEM

Yes it will fly. I destroyed mine, first time out.
Too much power and controls set too hot. My fault!
I would recommend low rates at half throw and be gentle on the sticks.

I would also advise using a voltage regulator for the receiver. As not all controller BEC’s put out enough amps for the servos.

I have tried just about every combination for brushless motors
And found that one motor will shut down before the other, no matter how you wire it.

Run a test on the bench with the battery or battery packs, to see how long they will run, and land before they will shut down one of the motors.

One other thing I learned the hard way. If you need more wire to get from the motor to the battery, do it between the motor and the controller. Not between the controller and the battery.
Long wires between the battery and controller will blow the controller.


Have Fun

LEM