N495RD

Well, bad news,
I put my new DX7 into the Revolver, and I was out taxiing it around at the parking lot near my house to get the feel for how it handled on the ground (mine is very touchy), and it ripped the landing gear out of it when it hit a bump. So I have to fix that now, any suggestions on how I should go about doing this? I need to reinforce it when i repair it, i don't just want to put it back on.

russm

welcome to the club. lots of imfo here but ya got to search for it.

N495RD

i've been in for a while now, having the plane for a few months, thanks for the formal entry, i never got one. But i am just getting it done after being pressed hard by my girlfriend about paying attention to her and not the plane, but i do need some help on the LG. it is a pain, i cracked the wood on the inside, and i ripped all the covering off of the bottom in about a one foot patch. It isn't pretty at all, but I want to repair and reinforce the gear, not just put it back in. I am grateful that this happened when I was taxiing, not landing or taking off. Some help on this matter would be great.

russm

most of us have been there and done just that, exactly, as far as lg damage goes. thats the club part. your right, ya mise well start from scratch on that part of the plane. forget about the stock gear. and that is just for starters. look around this site. like i said ,lots of imfo.

mike boxtall

The same happened with mine. There are two schools of thought on this. 1) You reinstall everything and epoxy the snot out of it and it holds well enough to not rip out on landings or take off but if you bounce it in hard it will come off again...maybe. 2) You brace it, tie it back, and bolt it with 1/4" alluminum plate and it adds weight alters your cg which means more fussing with your batteries and if it comes off next time, the entire underside of the fuse will get ripped out and make for a nice winter project. When my gear got torn out I opted for option 1 and even after banging it in pretty hard a couple of times after the ten minute repair, the epoxy held good.

Wing-Ding

Anyone using spoilerons to help prevent the skipping problem? If so, about how much are you using? Thanks.

mike boxtall

I tried them. I had them set at 40%. Didn't like them at all. The plane does slow down. It just takes time and LOTS of practice to land without the skipping. I spent an entire day just doing touch and goes to figure out the best way to land this plane without bouncing. Now I can stick the landings 85% of the time.

Wing-Ding

What's your method for landing without skipping? Also, I did a search of this thread and found one place where someone estimated their spoileron programmed at 10-15mm which figures out to be between 11.35 and 17.17 degrees. Also saw a recommendation of 35 degrees (seems like too much). What didn't you like about the spoilerons? Thanks.

rcfan450

Spoilerons work great, I use probably 20%, more would be fine too. I use them about half the time, when I don't use them I'm letting the plane glide for what seems like a mile before I bring it in to land. I usually end up giving it a little gas towards the end cause it has slowed down so much.

mike boxtall

Didn't like them because during the 'get to know the plane' phase they slammed the plane to the ground on more than one occasion. The trick is to get to know where the stall speed of your plane and on final approach right before you flare, that's what your speed should be. Just barely above stall speed. Yes it comes in quick. Yes it takes awhile to bleed off speed, and yes it takes awhile to learn how to land this bird. Just practice. There are quite a few of them at our field and nobody uses spoilerons or flaperons. Its just good ol practice. Take your time and enjoy the plane.

rcfan450

Agreed. Just practice and find the stall point, then you can use whatever you want if you wish. But knowing the stall point is key.

beaver180

My Feedback: (10)

Yo Wind-Ding.... I found the spoilers worked extremely well for me! I had maybe 20mm up deflection. What I did was flew it up high and activated them ( with throttle at slightly above landing speed ) and mixed my elevator so as the Rev would fly level still.

Now here's the big difference... I DIDN'T use them until I just about touched down! and I mean JUST ABOUT, like just as the main wheels touched. My Rev just stuck down no skipping or bounces on landing that way. Awesome.

I fly mode one and used the 'Trainer' ( or 'snap-roll' ) switch, Futaba 9CAP, to activate my spoilers. This I found to be the easiest to reach no fuss switch to use.

Many guys will tell you to harden up and learn to "fly" this plane onto the ground, which is fine if you have the time and nice long runway and approach to it. That can/ will come later with heaps of practise.

Hope that help ya,
Paul

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Here is another video of my great planes revolver. I just got a new video camera.

[link]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzaY8vLwFrk[/link]

fanoffive0

Nice flying. I flew mine yesterday for the first time in 7 months. What happened to the orange plane the background?

Wing-Ding

Thanks for the tips, everyone. I finally found the combination that works great for my Revolver! First, I moved the CG back another 5mm from where it was last week (was 124mm now 129mm) by relocating the battery pack to underneath the servo tray. Second, I programmed 12 degrees of spoileron which I have on a switch on my Spektrum DX-7. Flew her three times today and landings were pretty close to pure grease each time! Also, adding a touch of aileron differential seems to help in coming out of a turn. I'm really falling in love with this plane!

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

The Orange plane was up for it maiden flight. IT WAS FLYING GREAT. Then we heard something. He said he lost all elevator input. When it crashed the took a look and the elevator with the linkage came off. If it had only been the side of the elevator without the linkage he probably would of landed it just fine.

The plane was a the Hangar 9 Pulse 125. I still love hangar 9 planes. More than likely he did not fully look over the plane or it was just bad luck it came off.

lippucci

Rowdog..what is the engine? Prop?

Thanks

Norm

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

That is a saito 100 with a 14x8 prop

lippucci

With all that weight up front, what did you do for CG? Battery location? Add weight? Great flyer!

Norm

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

Nothing kept the C.G right where it was at. I did not change a thing on the plane. The only thing that I change was my trim in my radio I gave it 4 clicks of down. I did not move anything around. As you see it still flies great and lands even better and does not have a tendency to noise over on landings. The saito is only .8 oz heavier than the evolution I had in it.

With this engine prop combo I have a unlimited vertical!!

lippucci

Amazing about the CG. Do you have any pics of the engine mount? I tried to install a .91fs & it seems the stock mount is not adaptable. Going to local hs for another mount. Hate to change those blind nuts.

Norm

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

I did not even change the mount. I did have a evolution .45 on it side mounted. The only thing I did was drill extra holes, one on each side. I use the same front two holes on the engine mount from the evolution. So that being said I have three holes in the engine mount rails. The farthest back hole is for the saito 100 and the very front hole is for the saito100/evolution 45. The middle hole is for the evolution 45. I hope this is clear. I then mounted my engine mount upside down and removed a little of the plastic behind the carb with a drimal because the carb touched the plastic. So I cut of a small piece of the mount. Warning, I only have three screws holding it on but it is very secure. Here are some pictures. If you look at the top rail in the green picture right in front of the back screw near the firewall you will see a engine mount whole right in front of it. This allows me to go back to the .45 evolution if I want to and then side mount it.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

here are some more pictures

cavandish

So you have 3 bolts holding an engine which is nearly double the recomended capacity to the firewall ? love your style, but hope you have replaced the crappy cad plated stock items with 3 high tensile caps. i think that the saito is a real good peice of quality, I purchased one new, which has now done probably 20 hours, it just seems to get better and better. considering all the extra bits a 4 strokers has, it is impressive that saito build them so light (shame that OS don't follow suit) you certainly cannot buy a 100 2 stroke in that weight bracket. Keep your airspeed up, and you will enjoy that revolver for a long time.

rowdog_14

My Feedback: (5)

1 last picture, sorry for the multiple post. Oh, and if you do it this way you will not have to move the blind nuts.