Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
11-29-2009, 07:26 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hi guys...
A good amount of progress again this week, finally reaching a point this weekend where I have to wait for my glass cloth to come in.
Pic 1: H9 do a great job of the glass and paint on the cowl, those of you who leave it as it is have nothing to worry about.
Pic 2: But 2.5 hours later and with an aching arm, you get this.
Pic 3: The plywood cowl ring is cut and dry fitted. There will be no external screws showing to hold it on.
Pic 4: A compromise here with the cowl flaps. They are the wrong size and distribution, but too difficult to fix so I cut the flaps where they were.
Pic 5: Wings are marked out for removal of the balsa to simulate the fabric covered sections.
I also did a little more on the tailwheel (95% complete), elevator actuator (lots of balsa violence) and rudder actuation.
Cheers
Goose
A good amount of progress again this week, finally reaching a point this weekend where I have to wait for my glass cloth to come in.
Pic 1: H9 do a great job of the glass and paint on the cowl, those of you who leave it as it is have nothing to worry about.
Pic 2: But 2.5 hours later and with an aching arm, you get this.
Pic 3: The plywood cowl ring is cut and dry fitted. There will be no external screws showing to hold it on.
Pic 4: A compromise here with the cowl flaps. They are the wrong size and distribution, but too difficult to fix so I cut the flaps where they were.
Pic 5: Wings are marked out for removal of the balsa to simulate the fabric covered sections.
I also did a little more on the tailwheel (95% complete), elevator actuator (lots of balsa violence) and rudder actuation.
Cheers
Goose
12-06-2009, 10:19 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Foolishly, I didn't keep track of the hours on this project and now wonder just how many there has been.
I have convinced myself that a little time (1 to 4 hours a day) each day is better than trying to do it all in one.
Working well so far.
Pic 1: Yep, I've gone electric. I know, I know but its the best of all worlds, no slime, sound, affordable batteries etc...
Pic 2: The Robart VR valve mount that will go in the wing. There will be a single quick connect between fuse and wing (to the tank).
Pic 3: Lots of work went into the fabric covered wing areas and to be honest, I wasn't too happy with it but with more work it came out ok.
Pic 4: Plenty of time spent on mounting the tailwheel and figuring the doors.
Pic 5: Replacement servo tray and dummy battery for size and position (6s)
In pic one, you can see my ideas on mounting the speakers, ESC and SFX6.3 where there is some cooling. This will also be a sealed box to help amplify the sound.
The unit I have decided on is the SFX6.3 from Model Solutions of Canada and will be bought next year.
I haven't figured it all out yet as this electric stuff is new and some weird science, but plenty of reading and asking questions is helping.
Cheers!
Goose
I have convinced myself that a little time (1 to 4 hours a day) each day is better than trying to do it all in one.
Working well so far.
Pic 1: Yep, I've gone electric. I know, I know but its the best of all worlds, no slime, sound, affordable batteries etc...
Pic 2: The Robart VR valve mount that will go in the wing. There will be a single quick connect between fuse and wing (to the tank).
Pic 3: Lots of work went into the fabric covered wing areas and to be honest, I wasn't too happy with it but with more work it came out ok.
Pic 4: Plenty of time spent on mounting the tailwheel and figuring the doors.
Pic 5: Replacement servo tray and dummy battery for size and position (6s)
In pic one, you can see my ideas on mounting the speakers, ESC and SFX6.3 where there is some cooling. This will also be a sealed box to help amplify the sound.
The unit I have decided on is the SFX6.3 from Model Solutions of Canada and will be bought next year.
I haven't figured it all out yet as this electric stuff is new and some weird science, but plenty of reading and asking questions is helping.
Cheers!
Goose
12-07-2009, 05:07 AM
#180
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Goose, looks awesome!
I agree with you on the working on it a little bit each day! Yesterday after several days of cleaning my basement (Dry Wall Project) I start working on a project. I 'm going to commit one hour a day. I'm waiting on retracts for my Sia Marchetti SF 260. So I pulled out a another ARF that I started Six years ago! H9 Skylane! Got it about 85% done and just stopped!
Reason - Emma and Noah = Tired to work sometimes in the evening!
I agree with you on the working on it a little bit each day! Yesterday after several days of cleaning my basement (Dry Wall Project) I start working on a project. I 'm going to commit one hour a day. I'm waiting on retracts for my Sia Marchetti SF 260. So I pulled out a another ARF that I started Six years ago! H9 Skylane! Got it about 85% done and just stopped!
Reason - Emma and Noah = Tired to work sometimes in the evening!
12-07-2009, 08:05 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Thanks mate...
I guess the trick is to always be working on something. Some days I go down to the workshop walk in and walk out... remember this is supposed to be fun, not a job.
Good news on your Skylane... make sure you post some pics somewhere I can see it.
Cheers!
Goose
I guess the trick is to always be working on something. Some days I go down to the workshop walk in and walk out... remember this is supposed to be fun, not a job.
Good news on your Skylane... make sure you post some pics somewhere I can see it.
Cheers!
Goose
12-07-2009, 09:01 AM
#182
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hey, Goose!
The paint on the wing time looks bad in the picture, but that's all the dust, from sitting and my dry wall project, in the next room!
Here's a link! [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_800816/anchors_9310166/mpage_34/anchor/tm.htm#9310166]Link to The Skylane Project![/link]
The paint on the wing time looks bad in the picture, but that's all the dust, from sitting and my dry wall project, in the next room!
Here's a link! [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_800816/anchors_9310166/mpage_34/anchor/tm.htm#9310166]Link to The Skylane Project![/link]
12-09-2009, 08:26 AM
#183
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
I just came across this great thread - neat stuff! Can anyone point me towards Luke's Corsair thread? I've searched and can't seem to find it. I'm hoping that Santa leaves one of these under the tree this year, and I want to mod it. Can't leave well enough alone! TIA!
FB
FB
12-09-2009, 09:31 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hi Freebird...
Luke's F2G thread is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1671250/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]here...[/link]
Enjoy!
Goose
Luke's F2G thread is [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1671250/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm]here...[/link]
Enjoy!
Goose
12-09-2009, 09:39 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hi Avaiojet...
Thanks for your comments.
Quite simply:
[ul][*] Draw the edges and ribs from the factory drawings on the wing. I originally was going to apply balsa strips on the rib positions and sand the ends flush with the wing, but it didn't work out. The edges would have required too much fairing.[*] Cut the entire area out of the top skin and replace with 1/32 sheet.[*] Redraw the rib position and sizes on the new wing skin.[*] Apply 1/32 strips in two widths to simulate ribs.[*] Carefully remove material from the block wing tip with a variety of hand tools to the correct depth.
[/ul]
Luke did a similar thing, but used some kind of router to reduce the top skin down to half thickness. His was a much cleaner idea and maintained the integrity of the top skin, mine was the next best way I could figure to do it.
Either way, we will see how it turns out when I glass the wing.
Cheers
Goose
Thanks for your comments.
Quite simply:
[ul][*] Draw the edges and ribs from the factory drawings on the wing. I originally was going to apply balsa strips on the rib positions and sand the ends flush with the wing, but it didn't work out. The edges would have required too much fairing.[*] Cut the entire area out of the top skin and replace with 1/32 sheet.[*] Redraw the rib position and sizes on the new wing skin.[*] Apply 1/32 strips in two widths to simulate ribs.[*] Carefully remove material from the block wing tip with a variety of hand tools to the correct depth.
[/ul]
Luke did a similar thing, but used some kind of router to reduce the top skin down to half thickness. His was a much cleaner idea and maintained the integrity of the top skin, mine was the next best way I could figure to do it.
Either way, we will see how it turns out when I glass the wing.
Cheers
Goose
12-09-2009, 01:14 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Cheers FB!
There is many threads on F4U builds, Luke's original Royal kit build escapes me right now, but is well worth hunting down.
Goose
There is many threads on F4U builds, Luke's original Royal kit build escapes me right now, but is well worth hunting down.
Goose
12-09-2009, 06:33 PM
#189
My Feedback: (32)
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hi Goose ,hope you don't mind . I found some of Luke's builds.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62.../tm.htm#627415
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_16..._1/key_/tm.htm
Nice redo to a arf ,Goose.
Joe
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_62.../tm.htm#627415
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_16..._1/key_/tm.htm
Nice redo to a arf ,Goose.
Joe
12-09-2009, 07:57 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
No way Joe, thanks for that...
Just one Charles... its intended to simulate the full scale and needs to be subtle...
Cheers
Goose
Just one Charles... its intended to simulate the full scale and needs to be subtle...
Cheers
Goose
12-13-2009, 11:33 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
This week has seen some raw materials come in, but has mostly been consumed with Christmas parties, drinking, my birthday and generally not building, but from the small amount I have done, here are the pics:
Pic 1: A 1/8th scale Frank Tiano resin dummy P&W R2800 out of the box is a heavy beast but well detailed and has plenty of potential for bashing.
Pic 2: A carbide grinding tip is put into the dremel to begin getting rid of some weight.
Pic 3: I put the F4U up in the balance sling to see where things sit.
Grinding the resin from the back of the dummy resulted in fine dust everywhere, not such a great plan so I put a mill bit in my drill press which did a much better job.
Damn I want/need a CAD/CAM mill setup and will look seriously at that next year.
Half way through I decided to see where it all balances and stopped removing resin because I needed the weight.
I added ziplocks of lead shot to simulate the motor, batteries, sound system, speakers etc etc and it balances where recommended.
Interestingly, it weighs around 10lbs as you see it in pic 3.
Will see what gets done this week, but the following three weeks will be nil as I am off home (NZ) for xmas
Cheers lads...
Goose
Pic 1: A 1/8th scale Frank Tiano resin dummy P&W R2800 out of the box is a heavy beast but well detailed and has plenty of potential for bashing.
Pic 2: A carbide grinding tip is put into the dremel to begin getting rid of some weight.
Pic 3: I put the F4U up in the balance sling to see where things sit.
Grinding the resin from the back of the dummy resulted in fine dust everywhere, not such a great plan so I put a mill bit in my drill press which did a much better job.
Damn I want/need a CAD/CAM mill setup and will look seriously at that next year.
Half way through I decided to see where it all balances and stopped removing resin because I needed the weight.
I added ziplocks of lead shot to simulate the motor, batteries, sound system, speakers etc etc and it balances where recommended.
Interestingly, it weighs around 10lbs as you see it in pic 3.
Will see what gets done this week, but the following three weeks will be nil as I am off home (NZ) for xmas
Cheers lads...
Goose
02-04-2010, 12:16 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
So... here we are one week into February and where the hell are the updates?
A good question!
I'm back from home, had a fantastic xmas with family and friends in NZ and there ends the good news.
During my stay and since I have been back the list is more like 3 back surgeries, total loss of my laptop, Xbox died, car has needed $2k spent on it and all within 6 weeks!
Unbelievable.
As far as the Corsair is concerned, I haven't done much due to my back, but have been tinkering with my pilot for short bursts.
(excuse the picture, had to use online editors to adjust it)
On the left is a 1/8th scale full body latex Vailly Aviation WWII US pilot and the right is a 1/8th scale Aces of Iron bust which is some kind of cast plastic.
The idea is to mix the two into an acceptable full body pilot.
Evan Quiros has done this successfully somewhere on RCU and thats where I got the inspiration (Thanks Evo).
Thats it for now... I know, I expected more too but it just isnt happening.
Cheers!
Goose
A good question!
I'm back from home, had a fantastic xmas with family and friends in NZ and there ends the good news.
During my stay and since I have been back the list is more like 3 back surgeries, total loss of my laptop, Xbox died, car has needed $2k spent on it and all within 6 weeks!
Unbelievable.
As far as the Corsair is concerned, I haven't done much due to my back, but have been tinkering with my pilot for short bursts.
(excuse the picture, had to use online editors to adjust it)
On the left is a 1/8th scale full body latex Vailly Aviation WWII US pilot and the right is a 1/8th scale Aces of Iron bust which is some kind of cast plastic.
The idea is to mix the two into an acceptable full body pilot.
Evan Quiros has done this successfully somewhere on RCU and thats where I got the inspiration (Thanks Evo).
Thats it for now... I know, I expected more too but it just isnt happening.
Cheers!
Goose
02-08-2010, 08:38 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hi guys...
You know there is a reason why re-engineering things is a lot of work and this weeks mental gymnastics came in the form of gear doors.
Sure the concept is easy, a little fiddly due to the ever decreasing size of this model but doable. I had to wonder, whilst laying in the bath last night using the wall as a canvas to mentally figure out how to make this work, if the H9 designers simply avoided the headaches by going around the obstacles rather than, like me, plow right into them
So as my back heals once again I am able to spend a little more time in the shop. This weeks (mis)adventures went something like this:
Pic 1: Oil coolers. I dremeled the openings out 'just to see' how I can make them better and decided I didn't want to use them. I have another plan for these...
Pic 2: So look at these gaping holes, I want to start with a blank canvas here so...
Pic 3: I closed them up. The LE end is simply white foam and the rest is sheeted in. I drew the gear door on to figure out how it was all going to go together.
Pic 4: 4 layers of glass make up the doors that after reskinning the wings, fits perfectly... thats not the hard part...
Pic 5: Here is my last Corsair & retract. Quite a bit was done to get these in and they worked flawlessly. Can you guess what the new problem is...?
Pic 6: Yep, it was never designed for doors and I need to lose 10mm in a wing where the wheel is already touching to the top skin when retracted.
Pic 7: Same.
Pic 8: A good chunk of the day was spent figuring this one out and I have a solution but I will need to add bracing back into the main spar.
Pic 9: This is an experiment to see if I can use the supplied oil coolers as molds for glass ones. Its ok, but I'm not 100% convinced yet...
Ok, this is where I'm calling on you for help finding replacement wheels...
In order to get the wheels in and the door closed, I need to reduce the thickness of my wheels by 10mm.
Two options:
1. You guys know when to get 80mm x 18mm wheels and I simply buy them, or
2. I cut mine in half, remove some material and glue them back together.
Option 3 of a custom machine is way too expensive.
I will keep looking too, thanks a lot!
Goose
You know there is a reason why re-engineering things is a lot of work and this weeks mental gymnastics came in the form of gear doors.
Sure the concept is easy, a little fiddly due to the ever decreasing size of this model but doable. I had to wonder, whilst laying in the bath last night using the wall as a canvas to mentally figure out how to make this work, if the H9 designers simply avoided the headaches by going around the obstacles rather than, like me, plow right into them
So as my back heals once again I am able to spend a little more time in the shop. This weeks (mis)adventures went something like this:
Pic 1: Oil coolers. I dremeled the openings out 'just to see' how I can make them better and decided I didn't want to use them. I have another plan for these...
Pic 2: So look at these gaping holes, I want to start with a blank canvas here so...
Pic 3: I closed them up. The LE end is simply white foam and the rest is sheeted in. I drew the gear door on to figure out how it was all going to go together.
Pic 4: 4 layers of glass make up the doors that after reskinning the wings, fits perfectly... thats not the hard part...
Pic 5: Here is my last Corsair & retract. Quite a bit was done to get these in and they worked flawlessly. Can you guess what the new problem is...?
Pic 6: Yep, it was never designed for doors and I need to lose 10mm in a wing where the wheel is already touching to the top skin when retracted.
Pic 7: Same.
Pic 8: A good chunk of the day was spent figuring this one out and I have a solution but I will need to add bracing back into the main spar.
Pic 9: This is an experiment to see if I can use the supplied oil coolers as molds for glass ones. Its ok, but I'm not 100% convinced yet...
Ok, this is where I'm calling on you for help finding replacement wheels...
In order to get the wheels in and the door closed, I need to reduce the thickness of my wheels by 10mm.
Two options:
1. You guys know when to get 80mm x 18mm wheels and I simply buy them, or
2. I cut mine in half, remove some material and glue them back together.
Option 3 of a custom machine is way too expensive.
I will keep looking too, thanks a lot!
Goose
02-08-2010, 09:36 AM
#195
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
V6goose: Not quite what you are looking for, but Airborne Models has hard foam wheels in 76 mm diameter. I have similar wheels on a 11.5lb plane and they hold up for a couple of seasons. Mine are 20 mm wide, so I guess the 76mm are also about 20mm wide. $4.50/ pair. Here's a link
http://www.airborne-models.com/html/ShoppingOnLine.asp
In the middle of the page, under "Airplane Accessories", click on "Wheels & Related" in the drop down box.
Brian
http://www.airborne-models.com/html/ShoppingOnLine.asp
In the middle of the page, under "Airplane Accessories", click on "Wheels & Related" in the drop down box.
Brian
02-08-2010, 12:14 PM
#197
RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hey Goose,
I did exactly what you are planning to do for a pilot.
Mine not perfect but came out pretty darn good... It's going in my 60 sized P-47. I also wanted the practice in the smaller one as I plan on doing the same for a gaint scale P-51
here's mine
I did exactly what you are planning to do for a pilot.
Mine not perfect but came out pretty darn good... It's going in my 60 sized P-47. I also wanted the practice in the smaller one as I plan on doing the same for a gaint scale P-51
here's mine
02-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hey Ron...
It is a bit of a mish-mash to get them together, but yours came out great!
Should have mine done in a day or two...
Cheers!
Goose
It is a bit of a mish-mash to get them together, but yours came out great!
Should have mine done in a day or two...
Cheers!
Goose
02-10-2010, 02:23 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Hey Goose,
Three operations? I knew of two......soon you will have more operations on you than the corsair
Good to see your back into it, will watch with interest. Will have a look to see what wheels we have in this part of the world that will suit.
Cheers,
Si.
Three operations? I knew of two......soon you will have more operations on you than the corsair
Good to see your back into it, will watch with interest. Will have a look to see what wheels we have in this part of the world that will suit.
Cheers,
Si.
02-10-2010, 07:56 AM
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RE: Goose's H9 F4U Corsair ARF bash
Sim...
How is it young man, that you and I have been building and flying planes for over 30 years, you manage a hobby shop and this is your first post in RCU? [X(]
I am honoured.
Good to see ya mate.
Yeah, same again for the surgery game but 'back into it' (haw haw) as you say...
As for the F4U... getting the gear in is a bit tricky, but can be done. I have to push them as high as possible up into the wing and angle them backwards to get the scissor links inside the doors.
Unfortunately this gives the gear a slight backward lean when extended... thats why Corsair gear is 100 degree not 90.
Short of replacing the gear for lower profile 100 deg units which cost more than the ARF (these ones did) there arent too many options.
Once again the LADO units would be perfect but with the company in limbo I don't think you can get them.
So out with the trusty dremel to make them fit and will backfill with additional bracing (somehow
As for wheels the reduction in space is because of the angle, and is why I need skinnier wheels. I have found a couple of options including a nice set of jet wheels that have the wrong spoke pattern but are only 20mm thick.
[link=http://www.bvmjets.com/Pages/Catalog/Leadpages/wheels.htm]The 3" V-lites here or...[/link]
[link=http://s43500.storefront-solutions.com/detail.aspx?ID=877]The 'B' style ones here.[/link]
Cheers!
Goose
How is it young man, that you and I have been building and flying planes for over 30 years, you manage a hobby shop and this is your first post in RCU? [X(]
I am honoured.
Good to see ya mate.
Yeah, same again for the surgery game but 'back into it' (haw haw) as you say...
As for the F4U... getting the gear in is a bit tricky, but can be done. I have to push them as high as possible up into the wing and angle them backwards to get the scissor links inside the doors.
Unfortunately this gives the gear a slight backward lean when extended... thats why Corsair gear is 100 degree not 90.
Short of replacing the gear for lower profile 100 deg units which cost more than the ARF (these ones did) there arent too many options.
Once again the LADO units would be perfect but with the company in limbo I don't think you can get them.
So out with the trusty dremel to make them fit and will backfill with additional bracing (somehow
As for wheels the reduction in space is because of the angle, and is why I need skinnier wheels. I have found a couple of options including a nice set of jet wheels that have the wrong spoke pattern but are only 20mm thick.
[link=http://www.bvmjets.com/Pages/Catalog/Leadpages/wheels.htm]The 3" V-lites here or...[/link]
[link=http://s43500.storefront-solutions.com/detail.aspx?ID=877]The 'B' style ones here.[/link]
Cheers!
Goose