Kraft Radio Conversion
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Man... this thread moves. I forget that we're talking about TB's and not Kraft radio's!
Gino,
How much would the damages be to get it across the border? Destination: Montreal, Quebec H4A 2S9
Right... electric. So what's it going to be? 600W, 3s?
David.
Gino,
How much would the damages be to get it across the border? Destination: Montreal, Quebec H4A 2S9
Right... electric. So what's it going to be? 600W, 3s?
David.
#79
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
I'll take the hit for the TB OT! Don't know the watts yet, but 3S is likely do to battery size. I'll decide on watts and prop size when I get an idea of weight.
Mail me at: [email protected] and we'll talk about shipping.
You got me started on this with those damn plans!!!!
Gino
Mail me at: [email protected] and we'll talk about shipping.
You got me started on this with those damn plans!!!!
Gino
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Andy hasn't complained, but definitely post any info on the Kraft conversion;any more infoon itAndy? I did order the MS2K kits for either the Pro-Line or the Kraft.
I should hear from the brother tomorrow Gino, hopefully get another one.
Hook
I should hear from the brother tomorrow Gino, hopefully get another one.
Hook
#81
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Mark,
I have the photos for the conversion sitting in my camera. I just need to remember to pull them out.
David & Gino,
I estimated the weight at 48 oz, 375 sq in, 4S 4200's, E-Flite 25Heli motor (EFLM4025H). With an APC 9x9 it was mid-80's, 520W, 172W/lb. With a 10x10 it was high 90's, 650W, 217W/lb. See images for details.
Andy
I have the photos for the conversion sitting in my camera. I just need to remember to pull them out.
David & Gino,
I estimated the weight at 48 oz, 375 sq in, 4S 4200's, E-Flite 25Heli motor (EFLM4025H). With an APC 9x9 it was mid-80's, 520W, 172W/lb. With a 10x10 it was high 90's, 650W, 217W/lb. See images for details.
Andy
#84
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
ORIGINAL: trmcrft
Do you like SPEEED Andy?? Been so long since I've seen a TB, didn't think a lipo that big would fit. Do you have a battery hatch somewhere?
Do you like SPEEED Andy?? Been so long since I've seen a TB, didn't think a lipo that big would fit. Do you have a battery hatch somewhere?
Andy
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
ORIGINAL: AndyKunz
Mark,
I have the photos for the conversion sitting in my camera. I just need to remember to pull them out.
David & Gino,
I estimated the weight at 48 oz, 375 sq in, 4S 4200's, E-Flite 25Heli motor (EFLM4025H). With an APC 9x9 it was mid-80's, 520W, 172W/lb. With a 10x10 it was high 90's, 650W, 217W/lb. See images for details.
Andy
Mark,
I have the photos for the conversion sitting in my camera. I just need to remember to pull them out.
David & Gino,
I estimated the weight at 48 oz, 375 sq in, 4S 4200's, E-Flite 25Heli motor (EFLM4025H). With an APC 9x9 it was mid-80's, 520W, 172W/lb. With a 10x10 it was high 90's, 650W, 217W/lb. See images for details.
Andy
Thanks. I'll drop you a line by email. I hope my supplying plans hasn't drained your holiday budget too much . It may be about to drain mine!
Andy,
thanks for the compute. I guess, like the Nanorare, the TB at 48" is using pretty much the same setup. The wing according to BHE is actually an even 400 squares (see plans) rather than 375. According to my measurement that is the case assuming a wing of 48" span. But as measured on the plans, it appears to actually be 49" (whether this is effective lift or not). As measured, I obtained a wing of ~409 squares (see below). In any event, that will drop the loading a touch - nice. Interestingly, the Dirty Birdy 20 at ~49" has almost the same area but it has a more tapered planform:
Tweedy Bird (49.00" span)
Root Chord: 9.72"
Tip Chord: 6.97"
Half Span: 24.50" (measured as the chords above)
Wing Area: (9.72+6.97)*24.50 = 408.91 sq in (2.84 sq ft)
Wing Loading: 16.9 oz/sq ft (AUW = 48 oz)
Dirty Birdy 20 (48.90" span)
Root Chord: 9.94"
Tip Chord: 6.65"
Half Span: 24.45"
Wing Area: (9.94+6.65)*24.45 = 405.63 sq in (2.82 sq ft)
Wing Loading: 17.0 oz/sq ft (AUW = 48 oz)
I like that 10x10 prop! Andy, is that E-Flite 25H now in production? Does it sounds like a little turbine with that fan in the back? [8D]
David.
#86
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
I have one of those motors. It doesn't sound much different, and the fan unbolts in 10 seconds if you want, which you'll need to do if you do a firewall mount (it comes for nosering mount, typical heli setup) and yes, we have them in stock.
The 10x10 is an APC prop, stock number APC10010E.
My 375 sq in came from the 48" Tipo plans I had sitting on my plotter. It was an estimate, since it doesn't affect the top-end results (mostly landing speed).
Andy
The 10x10 is an APC prop, stock number APC10010E.
My 375 sq in came from the 48" Tipo plans I had sitting on my plotter. It was an estimate, since it doesn't affect the top-end results (mostly landing speed).
Andy
#87
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Spektrum-izing a Kraft radio pix. This should be pretty similar for just about any conversion like this.
I started with by completely dissecting a DX5E. I did a little poking around with my voltmeter to identify purpose and operation of various portions. I just marked things on the PCB with a marker. I cut the ends off the PCB, taking care to retain the mounting holes, then added the connections back that I had deleted. Because of the size of the PCB, I removed the charge and trainer jacks but did not replace them.
I had to add a few holes to take care of the switches for retracts, D/R and trainer/Bind. The previous owner had an analog 5th channel which I didn't use, but left in place (this was a mod he had done).
The rear view shows what it should look like when you're done. I need to dress the wires before putting the rear cover on (which I still need to obtain).
The antenna was the hardest part of the whole deal. I used parts from a 5E (actual antenna, for length), DX6I, and SPM FUT module (for mounting). Even then, I had to cut, drill, and tap the plastic mount. It's glued together with CA.
Andy
I started with by completely dissecting a DX5E. I did a little poking around with my voltmeter to identify purpose and operation of various portions. I just marked things on the PCB with a marker. I cut the ends off the PCB, taking care to retain the mounting holes, then added the connections back that I had deleted. Because of the size of the PCB, I removed the charge and trainer jacks but did not replace them.
I had to add a few holes to take care of the switches for retracts, D/R and trainer/Bind. The previous owner had an analog 5th channel which I didn't use, but left in place (this was a mod he had done).
The rear view shows what it should look like when you're done. I need to dress the wires before putting the rear cover on (which I still need to obtain).
The antenna was the hardest part of the whole deal. I used parts from a 5E (actual antenna, for length), DX6I, and SPM FUT module (for mounting). Even then, I had to cut, drill, and tap the plastic mount. It's glued together with CA.
Andy
#89
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Gino,
I'll likely pick one up from you. I'll fire you a PM with my email address and we can take it from there. I believe one can also email directly from RCU via one's personal page.
Since there's been much talk about Bridi 25 size birds, I figured I'd post the plans I've been working on. I thought I'd build a UFO for my ST X25 with pipe on the side. At first I thought of building a Dirty Birdy but then, for various good reasons, decided on the UFO. I've been putting together a hybrid plan consisting of Rainedave's UFO 66% plan (UFO CAD) and the BHE plan (UFO BHE) scaled down to match the CAD plan scaling of 77% I decided on.
Attached is a 2 page PDF plan (fuse and wing) with the work in progress of the model I'd like to build. There are some issues still with dimensioning (wood sizes) as well as tuning the first two formers (FW and F1). I want to use a 6 oz tank but that's going to require a 2" opening in F1 to pass the tank. I may end up widening the fuse (as usual) by adding something like 1/2" to F1 and correspondingly to the other formers. With a width of ~2.75", I can make a 2.25" opening leaving 1/4" of meat on each side of the 1/8" ply former.
The other issue I'm having is fuse height in the tank bay. I'm considering trike retracts with a 1-1/2" nose wheel but the fuse is barely tall enough to accommodate a low profile (1-7/8 in) GP 6 oz tank and the retracted wheel. Part of the problem with the design is the use of two 1/4" balsa fuse tops in the front part of the aircraft. Of course, the lower sheet can be hollowed out to provide more height clearance but this essentially voids the intended use of this sheet - to provide material for rounding the fuse top.
I'm wondering if I can get away with using 1/4" sheet from the fuse front to one third of the way into the tank bay and then continue back from there using 1/4 x 3/8" stock to provide a surface for the top sheet but clear the tank area of unneeded wood. One could probably also just use 1/4" triangle stock in the radio bay area rearward instead of the 1/4" lower sheet - I don't really see any need for it here and it makes the radio compartment shallower and the plane heavier.
Other than these somewhat minor fuse logistics issues, the stab ribs need to be traced in CAD (I'll only use 1, 2, 4 and 6) and wing ribs 2 & 3 to be generated. These ribs would be spaced so that ribs 1 to 4 would be separated by ~2.6" providing 4 ribs in the span from the wing C/L and where rib 4 is currently located. This would allow me to locate a retract landing gear plate between ribs 3 & 4 and retract the 1-3/4" wheel between ribs 2 & 3. A 4" main LG extension should provide for a nice 5.5" of prop clearance which is perfect for a 9x6 prop.
If anyone is interested in this bird, I'm thinking of having it laser cut but before I do so, it needs a little more work. If anyone has the CAD skills to generate ribs 2 & 3 and trace the stab ribs and complete the flying surface sheet of the plans, that would be wonderful as I don't have such software and talents. Note that this PDF is fully vectorized and can be edited in Illustrator (or CAD) at will (except for the raster portions from the BHE plan - stab ribs and stab top view). I did manage to produce the vectorized stab (CAD) by superimposing the BHE stab and doing a little line work. It would probably also be a good idea to replace the single center wing dowel for a pair of dowels on either side of C/L which should help to provide a little more clearance for the retracted nose wheel (it would tuck in between the two dowels). Two dowels and a single bolt make for a secure but fast assembly at the field.
If anyone would like to help expedite the completion of these plans, or otherwise offer comments and suggestions, it would be most welcome. A laser cut kit of this bird will make it a fast build.
The TB will be reserved for electric use...
David.
I'll likely pick one up from you. I'll fire you a PM with my email address and we can take it from there. I believe one can also email directly from RCU via one's personal page.
Since there's been much talk about Bridi 25 size birds, I figured I'd post the plans I've been working on. I thought I'd build a UFO for my ST X25 with pipe on the side. At first I thought of building a Dirty Birdy but then, for various good reasons, decided on the UFO. I've been putting together a hybrid plan consisting of Rainedave's UFO 66% plan (UFO CAD) and the BHE plan (UFO BHE) scaled down to match the CAD plan scaling of 77% I decided on.
Attached is a 2 page PDF plan (fuse and wing) with the work in progress of the model I'd like to build. There are some issues still with dimensioning (wood sizes) as well as tuning the first two formers (FW and F1). I want to use a 6 oz tank but that's going to require a 2" opening in F1 to pass the tank. I may end up widening the fuse (as usual) by adding something like 1/2" to F1 and correspondingly to the other formers. With a width of ~2.75", I can make a 2.25" opening leaving 1/4" of meat on each side of the 1/8" ply former.
The other issue I'm having is fuse height in the tank bay. I'm considering trike retracts with a 1-1/2" nose wheel but the fuse is barely tall enough to accommodate a low profile (1-7/8 in) GP 6 oz tank and the retracted wheel. Part of the problem with the design is the use of two 1/4" balsa fuse tops in the front part of the aircraft. Of course, the lower sheet can be hollowed out to provide more height clearance but this essentially voids the intended use of this sheet - to provide material for rounding the fuse top.
I'm wondering if I can get away with using 1/4" sheet from the fuse front to one third of the way into the tank bay and then continue back from there using 1/4 x 3/8" stock to provide a surface for the top sheet but clear the tank area of unneeded wood. One could probably also just use 1/4" triangle stock in the radio bay area rearward instead of the 1/4" lower sheet - I don't really see any need for it here and it makes the radio compartment shallower and the plane heavier.
Other than these somewhat minor fuse logistics issues, the stab ribs need to be traced in CAD (I'll only use 1, 2, 4 and 6) and wing ribs 2 & 3 to be generated. These ribs would be spaced so that ribs 1 to 4 would be separated by ~2.6" providing 4 ribs in the span from the wing C/L and where rib 4 is currently located. This would allow me to locate a retract landing gear plate between ribs 3 & 4 and retract the 1-3/4" wheel between ribs 2 & 3. A 4" main LG extension should provide for a nice 5.5" of prop clearance which is perfect for a 9x6 prop.
If anyone is interested in this bird, I'm thinking of having it laser cut but before I do so, it needs a little more work. If anyone has the CAD skills to generate ribs 2 & 3 and trace the stab ribs and complete the flying surface sheet of the plans, that would be wonderful as I don't have such software and talents. Note that this PDF is fully vectorized and can be edited in Illustrator (or CAD) at will (except for the raster portions from the BHE plan - stab ribs and stab top view). I did manage to produce the vectorized stab (CAD) by superimposing the BHE stab and doing a little line work. It would probably also be a good idea to replace the single center wing dowel for a pair of dowels on either side of C/L which should help to provide a little more clearance for the retracted nose wheel (it would tuck in between the two dowels). Two dowels and a single bolt make for a secure but fast assembly at the field.
If anyone would like to help expedite the completion of these plans, or otherwise offer comments and suggestions, it would be most welcome. A laser cut kit of this bird will make it a fast build.
The TB will be reserved for electric use...
David.
#90
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Had 6 sets of TB plans printed today. Ordered 6 full wood kits for the TB as well. Hope I move them!
FB
#91
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Plans say .15-.30 engine. Plans printed from the pdf supplied by David. Cost is $85 shipped ConUS
Guys, Just understand, this is laser cut parts and sheet/strip wood. No canopy, LG, cowl, etc.
Don't need anybody mad at me, I have a wife (lovely) for that!
Gino
Guys, Just understand, this is laser cut parts and sheet/strip wood. No canopy, LG, cowl, etc.
Don't need anybody mad at me, I have a wife (lovely) for that!
Gino
#92
RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
ORIGINAL: doxilia
Attached is a 2 page PDF plan (fuse and wing) with the work in progress of the model I'd like to build. There are some issues still ...
Attached is a 2 page PDF plan (fuse and wing) with the work in progress of the model I'd like to build. There are some issues still ...
The latest version of Profili Pro will allow you to specify the locations of the ribs manually. This will allow you to get ribs 2 & 3 just as easily as all the others. It's worth the few bucks!
Andy
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
Andy,
Looking good. You will have more pics though right! As for trimming the board, are you going to grind, cut, or saw, etc? I probably have a bit more room inside since mine are single sticks. I just picked up a MS2K kit also, I'll have a computerized Pro-Line Comp 6 one of these days soon I hope. I've been using my Futaba 8SSAP but it's not easy to reach the throttle and there is no room to move anything around in there. If this works out on the Kraft SS I have three more that may go on the surgeon's table too! Thanks Andy, keep it coming (as time permits of course).
Mark
Looking good. You will have more pics though right! As for trimming the board, are you going to grind, cut, or saw, etc? I probably have a bit more room inside since mine are single sticks. I just picked up a MS2K kit also, I'll have a computerized Pro-Line Comp 6 one of these days soon I hope. I've been using my Futaba 8SSAP but it's not easy to reach the throttle and there is no room to move anything around in there. If this works out on the Kraft SS I have three more that may go on the surgeon's table too! Thanks Andy, keep it coming (as time permits of course).
Mark
#95
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
ORIGINAL: Free Bird
trmcrft, I missed the TB! Is that also a .20 size like the TW? If so, I'm in! I just luv these little birds! Cost for the TB?
FB
Had 6 sets of TB plans printed today. Ordered 6 full wood kits for the TB as well. Hope I move them!
FB
maybe I'm confusing things. The plans and laser kit that Gino is cutting is for the BHE Tweedy Bird (TB). It should make a great electric bird. I'm not sure what you are referring to by the TW - perhaps the same thing? Of course, the TB is merely a simplified 20 size Dirty Birdy (DB) - flat solid stab, slightly different wing planform (not much), no engine beam mounts, somewhat simpler fuse construction, plastic bubble canopy (not as nice as that on the DB in my opinion) and so on.
The latest plans I just posted before your post are for the UFO which in my view is simply the evolution and finessing of the Dirty Birdy - anhedral stab, swept wing and stab (double taper), thicker airfoils (particularly on the stab), longer tail moment, larger rudder, etc.
Most of that plan is in large part the excellent work of Rainedave (missing in action as of late) which I scaled back up from 66% to 77% (of full scale). I'm modifying it to re-incorporate the airfoiled stab, putting a rib back in (but not all 11 of them) to support the retract mains and some other subtle changes to the fuse width and formers primarily. Once it's in working shape, I hope to have it laser cut and build one for a SuperTigre X25 that I have waiting for a home.
If you're interested, I'll let you know how to get one from the laser cutter (hoping I get there sooner than later). It should be a little more than a short kit but it will also be missing the canopy and probably some sheet balsa primarily for the wing. A little 1/16" contest balsa for this purpose is a nice way to go.
Or maybe I missed the boat entirely with respect to your post...
David.
P.S. CAD Work on the Cosmos 20 is under way... [8D] Curare's next!
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
ORIGINAL: AndyKunz
David,
The latest version of Profili Pro will allow you to specify the locations of the ribs manually. This will allow you to get ribs 2 & 3 just as easily as all the others. It's worth the few bucks!
Andy
David,
The latest version of Profili Pro will allow you to specify the locations of the ribs manually. This will allow you to get ribs 2 & 3 just as easily as all the others. It's worth the few bucks!
Andy
I downloaded PP2 and I'll give it a shot. Question though: How can I figure out what airfoil is being used by the UFO? If I understand correctly, one has to choose the airfoil in PP rather than have it interpret what's being used based on tracing provided. Do I have to match the CAD ribs with an airfoil from PP?
TIA, David.
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RE: Kraft Radio Conversion
That is mighty nice looking Gino. I have two Pro-Lines like yours. Flew the the one with the XPS 2.4 mod today andit went very well. I have the MS2K kit too, I'mjust not sure what I'm going to stuff it in, the PL or one my Kraft SS's. Let us know how the radio performs Gino.
Mark
Mark