JAS

My Feedback: (2)

I figured this is probably the place to ask this since most motors around this section are a bit older. I've got an OS-61 RF pumper that doesn't rotate. The carb butterfly moves, but the crank doesn't. Is there an easy, safe way to get it moving again? I haven't taken the header off yet to check the piston/sleeve condition. Thanks

SByrd

My Feedback: (4)

I had a YS 61 2 stroke that was stuck I pulled the head and carb off and through it in a gallon of coolpower for about a week or two. It freed up and has been running great since.

Stephen

iflyg450

take off what you can and then submerge it in automatic transmission fluid for a few days, It works for me. It also makes great after run oil. I use in my YS 45 and have never had any problems.

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

Was it running okay and just set aside?
Castor fuel used?
Is it installed in a plane?

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

That's not cheap Stephen...lol.

My other RF is not stuck, but I can tell it needs a new bearing (got one too). Is the 'strip the motor and cook it in the oven' still the way to change bearings?

I acquired the motor from a friend and it didn't turn over then. Don't know the history of the motor either, but it hasn't been in a plane for at least 2 years (I had it the past 2 years).

Anyone have a case backplate for a YS-61 they don't need anymore...lol. I have 2 YS's but only 1 backplate.

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

That sucker could be damaged, so a full disassembly is needed.

I'd be worried about the pump, too. You need to carefully take it apart (noting how it's assembled), clean up every component by hand and put it back together. Plain old alchol works fine, here.

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

ok, Ron, you had me worried. Now I'm scared...lol. I pulled the header and this motor was run MAYBE once. It looks about brand new in the exhaust port. The piston has no run marks and the exhaust port on the case is ever so slightly bronzed in a couple areas. This thing wasn't run long.

grotto2

My Feedback: (2)

That's good news.
You need to remove the backplate and head and look in there for any debris or broken parts. If it looks okay, then I'd load it up with some penetrating oil.
Let it soak for several hours, maybe 24. If it won't break loose by hand, you can try heating it in the oven at maybe 250 degrees or so.

SByrd

My Feedback: (4)

I know but I had some extra 30% heli that I wont being needing. I dont think the electric like that stuff. lol

Stephen

hurrejola

Something that has worked for me, is to take the backplate off, spray some WD-40 an then apply some heat from a heat gun.

Happy holidays

Lnewqban

JAS,

Check this ongoing thread about a similar problem:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_93...tm.htm#9339507

You may find some additional ideas there.

ShineyObject

My Feedback: (4)

Jason - Try to avoid the oven and if you must use it, keep it at 200 degrees or less. Also, just use any good grade of 2 stroke oil since some of the other things will damage your pump diaphragm. Just be patient and it will come apart. Sounds like it is new, but needs a little "encouragement" to get loosened up.

JAS

My Feedback: (2)

I appreciate all the advise on how to loosen it up. I haven't decided which way yet, so please keep your methods coming. I'm sure after looking more at the motor it was run more than once, but like I said... it doesn't look like it was run much.

Here's a shot in the exhaust port. Don't mind all the weed's in the fins... everything I got from my friend had some of them on the stuff...lol.

alcarafa

SUBMERGE THE ENGINE IN COCA COLA FOR A COUPLE DAYS, YOU'LL BE SURPRISED !!!
DID IT ONCE AND WORKS OK .

AFTER LOOKING AT RESULTS, IM SURE YOU'LL THINK TWICE BEFORE DRINKING ONE EVER AGAIN !

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

If you feel nothings catastrophically wrong you could try putting your engine in the oven set to the lowest setting (180f or so) and let it warm up...What I've noticed is the steel cages will sometimes "stick" to the bearings if fuel or oil is allowed to "gel" in there...A little heat should help soften the varnish up enough to allow them to spin..There is allot of surface area and it doesn't take much to lock the engine down..I'd put a few drops of Mobile 1 or Ultra Oil into the cylinder before spinning too...

I would not recommend using any petroleum base products anywhere near these OS pumpers due to the pumps diaphragm and carb o-rings!! Once the pump and carb is off the engine then sealed up well away from the vapors you should be good to go...

I have eight of these engines (5 Hanno's and 3 RF-P's) which I've bought in various stages of used...No bad pumps in the lot...I always use to worry about the pumps but have decided they must not be that delicate...When I get an engine I'll flush the pump with fresh fuel and then put a couple drops of Ultra Oil before storage...I worry about the piston & liners allot more than the pumps...lol

I personally use the oven (and freezer) when changing bearings...I try and keep the temps as low as I can with the oven...I like to be able to gently push the bearings out or lightly tap on a wood block rather than get the engine so hot the bearing just fall out...

I've overhauled several of these OS and YS 61 engines in the last couple of years with pretty good success...I do have one Hanno that I wonder if I may have goofed up a little by getting it too hot?? That is when I decided to keep the temps as low as I can to get the job done...That Hanno has a little forward and aft crank movement that I just don't remember prior to my first bearing swap...I wonder if I altered the case dimensions by overheating it?? I have since changed to some different bearings and got the play down to a minimum and I think it will be alright but can't help feeling that I may have goofed it up a little..Who knows?? My plan is to fly the crap out of it till it blows up...

Just my .02

Chuck

proptop

My Feedback: (8)

Gummout "Jet Spray" (with the little red plastic tube ) automotive carb cleaner was designed to cut through varnish and stuff like this...works great, and very quickly.

Take the backplate off first, just in case (don't want to take any unnecessary chances w/ the diaphram ) and flush 'er out real good. Remove the plug, and spray into every opening possable...squirt some behind the prop driver too.
Have a prop on it so you can turn it over and work the spray into the bearings and flush 'em out.

Wear gloves and eye protection, and do it in a well ventilated area...but it will work almost immediately.

(Unless it's locked up because of a bad bearing or something mechanical )

It only takes a few minutes to evaporate...then you can load 'er up w/ oil...I like Air Tool oil.

tony0707

hi have read- that the diaphrams in the pumps get brittle and cause problems with engines that sit for a period of timenot from my own hands on experienceif a pump diaphram does go badis there a place to get a new one ? if so i would consider buying a pumped engine in the future-as they do turn out some good power-
the boys at my field put the stuck up engines in antifreeze in a crock pot on high -for hoursthe entire engine comes out looking brand new-although some of the suggestions here seem to be a good deal easier to doENJOY REGARDS TONY "the omega man " do think pink ! !

TFF

I would take the pump off; then fill the engine up with penetrant. Leave for a day; then mount a prop and see if it will move back and forth. Then take it apart and change the bearings; if there was any rust on them, the penetrant just loosened it. I would try and flush the pump with fuel or methanol.

lowfly_deano

My Feedback: (15)

I have done this several times with good success, use a heat gun and when hot slowly start turning the the crank (no pressure), and with the plug out put a good grade of oil in the engine through the plug hole and carb intake. continue to turn the crank and it will loosen up. Once it is good and free flush with glow fuel and run it on a test stand. Good luck.

pminnick

My Feedback: (6)

I hate it when that happens

Atlanta 60

My Feedback: (18)

LOL...Geeze..There is one in every crowd...OK I've edited my comment albeit a little too late...

f16man

You don't need to use an oven if you have heat shrink gun or the one you use to shrink the covering, and I usualy use a little fuel thru the back plate and the ex. port should free right up unless there is damage .......... good luck and let us know how ya do.

raynossupersonic

Boil the engine in a large pot with regular tap water. Ive fixed several old stuck engines and motorcycle carburetors using this method. As long as the engine remains in the water it cannot get hot enough to ruin plastic parts. Let it boil for 30min to 1 hour. Try to get water inside the engine so that it can work at the bearings. The water will not corrode any of the metal during this short period. Just be sure to disassemble and dry it out afterward so it doesn't sit with water inside it.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

I believe you can still buy actual carburetor cleaner in gallon cans at an automotive parts store. These things come with a metal basket in them because the solution is caustic. You do NOT want to stick your hands in the stuff. You already said the carburetor was free, so remove it and the back plate/pump assembly from the engine and set aside to clean separately. Then remove/disassemble anything else that will come loose. Dump the engine, less carburetor and pump, in the basket and immerse in the solution. Put the lid on. At this point, there is nothing in the solution except metal parts. Let it soak overnight, then pull the basket from the solution and thoroughly wash entire mess with tap water or a hose. The carburetor cleaner is water soluble so the basket with the carburetor parts in it will become squeaky clean. Turn the parts several times while flushing with water to ensure getting all the carburetor cleaner out that you possibly can. Having the head removed will help here. When the parts are as clean as they are ever going to be, use air from a compressor or shop vacuum or whatever source of air that you have to thoroughly dry the metal pieces. When they are totally clean and absolutely dry, generously lube with light oil, transmission fluid, or even RC fuel, ensuring that you get the bearings fully lubed and as much as you can on both sides of the piston. At this point you can bolt a prop on it and gently try to turn it. If there is any movement at all, it will eventually come free. If not, the engine is junk. Send it to me and I will dispose of it as necessary.

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

p.s. Be sure to include the pump and the carb.