Lifer

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Cyberwolf,

Well stated! I sent a similar statement to another thread where some guy was flying over houses and cars and believes it was his RIGHT to do so. It seems a lot of people don't have much respect for propellors until THEY get hit by one.

Tired Old Man

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Perhaps more accurately, they have little respect for anything but feel everyone alse should permit them the latitude to do whatever they want, when and wherever they want to.

ghoffman

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Well said, both. I look at it this way, my radial arm saw, lathe, Bridgeport, all have much less power than an OS 120 and would you want to put any part of anything you cared about in their way?

Lifer

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Ditto on all counts, gentlemen. Have a safe and happy new year!

Speedy-Gonzales

My Feedback: (202)

Cyberwolf,
I do not use standard blind nuts. I guess I failed to mention that since I have sworn off much hobby supplied hardware. I use the hardened "black" blindnuts or golden colored HD 18-8 stainless steel with a thicker flange. You are right about standard natural or zinc coated soft steel blind nuts. They are soft and prone to fracture and crushing. The black colored blind nuts have been carburized and are much harder. The easy way to tell if they are hardened is to lay one of each type on your garage floor and hit them equally with a hammer. The standard ones will smash flat like a piece of soft lead. I never use the hobby shop supplied blind nuts. The hardened type are available at FASTENAL or through any indusrtial supply such as McMaster-Carr for both SAE and metric thread sizes.

Have a great life and a happy new year.

I'm outta here. SPEEDY

Edited by moderator
Thank you Mr. Moderator for stepping in here.

GOT GAS

My Feedback: (1)

NEVER EVER run ANY size air frame without wings attached, I have seen catastrophic elevator failure after engines have been run without the wings attached (you need the wings for vibration dampening). Also I break in my engines (DA, Taurus & DLE) to manufactures recommendations and switch to Amsoil 80:1 and 100:1 W/premium fuel without ANY problems, very little carbon build up and NO wear issues. JMO

Tired Old Man

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An apt name you have there.

VeeAte

Thanks everyone for the info regarding engine mountings. I will go with loknuts and washers.

Happy New Year to all. Hope you all have a great 2010.

denwag

Just got my DLE30 the other day and I have a few questions about it.

The engine mounting bolts are M5Xp.8 and the thru holes in the motor are about 5.1mm (.200"). Whats the best way to mount these to the firewall. I cannot find any 5mm blindnuts anywhere so It looks like Im going to have to use locknuts and washers but with the 60mm long bold that comes with the engine Im going to be pressed for thickness of the firewall. What am I missing.

Another thing how are people routing the spark plug wire thru the firewall. It will take a pretty big hole to get it thru it. All comments would be greatly appreciated.

regards
sbdwag

Super08

My Feedback: (2)

If you can't get M5 blind nuts buy some 10/32 bolts and blind nuts instead. Nothing saying you have to use the M5 bolts supplied to mount the engine.

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

Super8 Boy I'm wondering what the Hell happened![:-]

RTK

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OK, here is what I have found from my recent modifications. I think the tolerances on some of these engines is more than likely causing the dieing upon landing. Before I polished/sanded the SPS (shinny piston syndrome) my engine would die about 75% of the time unless I goosed it a little on touch down. Now it never dies. I also notice that the engine was very tight cold or warm and had no prop bounce. After removing the shinny spots I now have prop bounce when cold but it diminishes when warm. This leads me to believe I will probably need a little more polishing, but since it will not die any longer I will just let normal wear take place. This has to be the tightest engine I have ever seen!
What I feel is happening is that when engine becomes tighter after running (warm) and upon landing, when forward movement slows, the engine is not able to over come internal friction and then dies. Many gallons of gas or a little loosening of tolerances makes all better.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

Good call Ralph. If the clearances are too tight frictional effects will be greater from expansion after the engine warms up. As the plane slows down for landing the prop can't unload anymore and would have less of a flywheel effect.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

RTK where was these shiny places at on the piston?
Also did you happen to throw a micrometer on the piston to see if it was round or not ?

3D_Junkie

Combine that with an overly rich tune and maybe a slight tendency for the gas to pool, the engine dies during landing (or shortly thereafter).

RTK

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There were 3 shiny places, two were pretty bad on one side and one not so bad on the other side. They extended from mid piston to the bottom of the skirt where it was the worst.
I was lazy and in too big of a hurry to check the piston or cylinder with a mic.

FOOPED

My Feedback: (8)

RTK how much run time /or gals of fuel do you have through the engine. Do you think this would ware and take care of itself without tearing down the engine and hand laping the piston high spots off. I guess what you are saying is the piston is out of round. Does the clyinder show the same area signs of drag discoloration below bottom of ring seat at btdc?

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

There are polished spots in the cylinder TOO, more than one it might not be round either I only had about 4 tanks of gas through my engine before I did the mods.
I guess it is a hit or mis when it comes to this engine.

All American distributors of this engine I am sure will stand behind it. I just choose to play with mine and see what I could do, I like playing with engines

captinjohn

If you find that the engine will not chop off clean or is slow to come back from high rpm's when you lift the throttle, this is a sign that the pop-off pressure in the carb is too high. The cure for this is to lower the pop-off pressure. If you experience loading-up problems, this is a sign that the pop-off pressure may be too low. The cure for this is to raise the pop-off pressure. As a general rule of thumb, the pop-off pressure will be from 8 to 12 lbs, and is a tuning factor that you can adjust for the altitude

RTK

My Feedback: (1)

Pop off pressure can have an affect on leanness or richness, but unless it is grossly to high or low it usually only affects the needle setting a little.

captinjohn

I should have added that was cut & pasted right from the Tillotson web-site. That brand is what we have on our DLE 30,s ... unless its a clone???? Capt,n

MKnutson

Just recieved the single bolt hub adapter from BCCHI, it's a quality unit! The only issue I had installing it was I had to modify an old 1/2" socket to install the new retainer nut under the adapter. The socket needs to be a very thin wall to fit inside the hub. NO more drilling props full of holes. This works awsome!

Thanks, Bill (BCCHI).

Mark

bcchi

Mark you can cut off the prop stud that comes on the DL 30 and just use the hex part for the retainer nut. It is smaller then the nut we supply.I can not find 8MM nuts with this size hex size.
BCCHI

gen3v8

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Capt,n,
How do you go about adjusting the pop off pressure,must be a simple adjustment??

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Arm length or spring tension on the regulator diaphragm