Military Planes

A question for one and all,

I've never tried adding panel lines and was wondering the method used to transfer the panel lines onto the wing (or fuse)? Is it a simple matter of taking some measurements and scale them up to suit the aircraft? Or do you print out the line drawing to the same size and carbon paper them across? I know it sounds like (is) a stupid question, but.....

And Zero,

I’m looking for to the maiden photos/video.

Cheers,

Chilli

Bryan McLarty

The answer to your question depends on just how dead on accurate you want it to be. Some really particular scale modelers HAVE to be accurate to the millimeter. I am no where near that crazy about it so I take the, "that looks about right" approach to it.

You will need several good straight edged instruments. I like thin metal yard sticks and a couple of good thin metal or plastic rulers. They should be somewhat flexible to follow any curvatures. Also secure a nice sharp pencil. You can usually change your 'tick' marks easily in pencil.

Typically, the best method for me is to abtain a good three view drawing of the subject, similar to the one I posted not too far back. I study the diagram, determine which side is the top and the which side is the bottom, then decide which of the primary panel lines are the most important (usually just the main structure lines and panels), although one could get even more detailed and consider the secondary lines as well.

Once I have decided on the lines I want to transfer to my subject, I pick a couple of long, root to tip lines. These are often straight and easy to start with. Lets consider the main spar lines for now. If you look at the Zero three view drawing like the one I posted, they are easy to identify but aren't exactly straight. In fact, they have a widened area feature that we'll come back to later. I'll look and see that it's about 1/3rd of the distance from the leading edge of the wing to the line. Actually this is a double lined feature on the diagram. Most of the time I'll just guess (eyeball it) and place a small pencil mark on the root in that spot. Next, I'll place an opposing mark near the wingtip where the line will end. Get a straight edge and connect your marks using light pressure on your pencil. You are just trying to get an outline that you can later go over, with a thin indelible marker.

Continue this procedure for the primary lines until you are happy with the level of detail. If you accuracy is horrible and way off, then either your eyeballing skills are poor or your model isn't very scale (which is often the case). If you have some features that are repetitive, I'd recommend you create a template out of thin cardstock so you can reproduce those features quicker and with greater accuracy. It's worth the time to do so. In fact, that's just what I did with those widened features that are on the main spar lines. Once you have one wing panel done, take out your yardstick and rulers and take some measurement from the completed wing and transfer the marks to the other wing half. Be accurate on this step and check your work periodically for errors. Don't work too fast, I'm a big proponent of taking several breaks during a long boring procedure like this and stepping back to view your work and symmetry.

Once you are finished with your pencil marks, get someone else to check and review your work. Buy them a pint if they can spot any mistakes! When all is well and good, go over the lines with an indelible marker. You should seek out possibly 2 or 3 thicknesses for some variation. Most often used should be about 1.0-1.5mm wide. I like a marker called a "Sharpie" ultra-fine. I don't know if you have those where you are.

There is no real easy way to do this. You can take measurements with great accuracy and do a better than "eyeball" job, however, your success relies on the accuracy and similarity of your model and your three view diagram. Often, both aren't usually perfect. Using some kind of carbon paper and transfer sounds horrible and wrought full of potential error to me. Good luck with that idea if you try it.

Even though this is a painfully boring chore, it can enhace your model a great deal and really bring it to life. Good Luck!

Having a HOT summer down there? It's was 22 degrees F in my hometown yesterday! COLD for Texas.

ZERO-322

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misha034

grate work all of you warbird fanatics. werry soon i will join you with my zero 1.20. hope to be with g-26, can somebody
tell me dimensions of the retracts, and tire wheels so i can tray to find some retract's for my zero.

best regards and maybe some of you can post some flight video

Bryan McLarty

I went with 4" wheels on mine. The ones supplied with the kit are too small in my opinion.

Johnny_Zero

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Hey Zero.....I would have replied to this post earlier but I just got done moving. Man do I hate having to move. But on the plus side I moved to a house from an Apt. Now I have a building room again. I haven't been flying for about 3 years and now am ready to get back into it. I don't have a Zero in the fleet at this time but plan to purchase one soon. I have all aerobatic birds left from 3 years ago (I sould all my warbirds while I had a grilfriend...big mistake). I did build a TF Red box Zero years ago though. No pics as this was before digital cameras. Yeah I am a bit old. LOL. The Johnny_Zero name came from a song. Some of my friends had a Band named Angellic Rage back in the early 90's and had a song named "Johnny Zero", great song and it sounded like a great screen name because I just love Warbirds. More photos please!

ZERO-322

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I used a 3 1/2" wheel on mine I didn't want to cut into the wing rib what comes with the kit is a 3" wheel and is undersized especially if you fly off a grass field, I used robart offset 3/16" struts cut to the max it allowed and it was a good fit, for the actual retract I used lado electric 60-1 narrow units all in all an easy set up

ZERO-322

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Misha it would be great if you post your progress here, I may buy myself another one and bash it right along with you ! I have a few new ideas I would love to try out , I had never done a cockpit or a sliding cockpit before this build nor had I ever weathered a plane, thanks to the great bunch of guys here this build was allot of first for me,and allot of fun ..... I think it would be cool to feed off of each other and share ideas as we go along

Johnny why don't you get yourself one and join in !

This is the scheme I'm contemplating for my next zero

misha034

thank you for fast response. i am going to build zero bird, because i already have thunderbolt hangar 9 p-47, so wwii must go on.
my problem is that i do not have in my country any rc store (serbia, europe), and the prices in europe are much bigger than in usa.
for that zero i have to pay some 280 eur (400$) plus postage, plus custom tax and all around it goes abut 550$.
that is without motor, servos... only arf. so i will try to make some buying on my way out of country and buy all accessories at once
because i can not (like all of you) make buying step by step. because of that list of stuff needed will be appreciated very much.
my plan is:
1. Zero 1.2 ARF kit
2. Zenoah G26 magnetic ignition
3. wheels ??? bigger are better (bumpy runway)
4. futaba 3004 servos
5. retracts???????? (can somebody please list all necessary things for retracts)
6. hinges, clevis, control horns etc (are they ok in the kit and if not which to buy)

than you
misha

misha034

I have found this two tips of retracts. which do you think is better to fit in this zero.
i hope it is not problem for somebody to measure. thank you

http://shop.lindinger.at/product_inf...ducts_id=51028

http://shop.lindinger.at/product_inf...ducts_id=32257

Johnny_Zero

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Hey Zero,

I am thinking about a CMP Zero, but am also considering an ESM P-47 or FW190. I just can't make up my mind. I haven't been flying in about 3 years and am going to put together an old Goldberg Ultimate with a 26cc gasser to retrain the thumbs and brain before doing a warbird. Also I have a 27% Hanger9 Extra 260 that is getting a new engine. I have a 40cc in now and it isn't enough power for the unlimited stuff. I need to get some stick time and then it is back to warbirds. The Zero at $199.99 is a good price though, and a 26cc gasser should be a great combo. A tax return is comming up soon though so you never know, also I just moved and should get the deposit on my apt. back too. I may order a Zero and a P-47 both.

ZERO-322

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The ESM planes are really cool if they came out with a zero I would be beside myself ! LOL I have had my eye on the ESM hurricane for some time now so that more then likely is going to be my next one , along side building my yellow zero which I am just about done collecting all the components I will need engine retracts etc funny thing is I hadn't flown all last season so i would probably need to refresh myself , LOL

Military Planes

Thanks for the Bryan. I'm in the process of converting a 50 size CMPro Zero to elec at the moment, so I'm thinking that this may be the first guniea pig for the panel lines as well as some weathering.

Cheers,

Chilli

ZERO-322

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I made some additions to the zero, after I thought i was done with the weathering I discovered a tip were you use fine grit sandpaper and steel wool to distress the paint it blended everything in nicely and added to that beat up worn look I was after. I also went in and added the fuse guns and notched the cowl were need be , the wing guns have also been installed, however I think I need to increase the diameter of the tubing I used, maybe not ? I don't know just can't put my finger on it something about it just doesn't look right, but hey its a work in progress LOL .

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

I really like the weathering that you have done , even the exaust cylenders have a light heat burnt look to them , just right !!!
I have not looked into the cowl area itself , perhaps a slight very slight ouline of the rivits or panel lines and then dulling them down is what you may be looking for to match the fuse (ever so lightly ) again I dont have documentation , I will try to dig some up to see how the cowl weathers vs the fuse ect but I am sure you have an arsenal of documentation .
The plane simply looks excellant , when will you maiden ?

Bryan McLarty

I looks GREAT, Zero. Quit messing with it and FLY it!!!

Take a bunch of picture outside from lots of angles. Some of my favorite angles are on my belly shooting the pic.

Congratulations, you have arrived!

Bryan

ZERO-322

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Part of the problem with the cowl and for most of the plane is after spraying the lustercoat clear flat on it it seems to give it a slight satin look and erases most of the finer work, this was solved on the fuse and wings by dulling the paint with the sandpaper and steel wool, So what I did was add the detail darker then i normally would have clear it two coats and then scuff it up, but on the cowling the clear coat sticks out like a sore thumb and yet without it the fine detail I want to add will rub off as soon as glow fuel hits it, so i'm still experimenting with that

what do you all think of the guns ? to long ? to short ? to skinny ?

ZERO-322

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weather here in Chicago is still pretty ugly so as far as flying goes probably not for a few weeks still , hows your luftwafe bird coming along ?

ZERO-322

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LOL ! thanks bryan ! as long as the weather is ugly outside and money is tight I have to continue putting together and taking apart the birds I do have, you don't even want to know how many times I have taken apart my Hurricane, swaped out engines and retracts at least a half dozen times each , what can I say as long as I'm bored I'm my worst critic , LOL

Johnny_Zero

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Zero, the guns look great!!!! Thanks so much.

misha034

@ZERO 322
phenomenal job. not little and not too much. exactly how it should be (just what i would like to have)

mirce

@ Misha034

In Serbia you can find two grate modelers who can help you... One is Coka, and other is Mirce... They will help you 100%...

If you don't know, Mirce have CMP Zero, but biggest, 2,1 m wingspan.

On his Zero wing is covered with epoxy resin, glass and paint, he add all panel lines and rivets, Robart retracts, smoke system, engine is Zenoah 45... He done weathering also...

More about that Zero on: www.nsmodelers.rs

ZERO-322

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Mirce , thanks for the post and the compliment, I always enjoy what others do to there zeros always a good source for enjoyment and insperation , as far as panel lines and a complete rivet detail I think I will leave that for the yellow zero I'm going to be taking my sweet time doing that one , although much of what i have learned on this one will probably be useful

this project was allot of firsts for me , first time I did a full detailed cockpit from scratch , first full figure pilot , first sliding canopy , first time I weathered a plane , need less to say this plane had been quite the learning experience and a real Joy ! now to move on until flying weather gets here , and then I'll be posting more pic and video of the maiden

thank you again to all that have helped and encouraged me all the way to completion

tod0001

Lol! But a scale model is never done........

ZERO-322

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Ah ! very true my friend, funny thing is I started to wonder if I had gone overboard but I weighed the plane today and its a little on the heavy side but no were near I thought it was going to be , final weight came in at 13.7 Lbs, its starting to snow again here so who knows maybe we still have to put in that tail wheel assembly we talked about ! LOL