flyweel help
#4
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RE: flyweel help
Sorry what i am trying to ask is what taper is machined on the flywheel on the id to accept the collet the reason i am looking for this is i want to machine a new flywheel on the lathe but i wanted to run a reamer to make the taper. I tried to stop into a tool shop this morning with hte flywheel and they did not have one that match's the taper.
thanks
thanks
#5
RE: flyweel help
Being a japanese engine the taper is god knows , us standard is 7 degrees or morse taper, seeing as the crank is machined straight you could change over to a more common size and make your own locking collet.
#6
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RE: flyweel help
Now I'm confused............. maybe.
Do you have a flywheel that has a tapered cone that fits between it or are you typing about the taper of the threads?
It might be a lot less hassle just to buy a flywheel for it than trying to get one made. I'd hate to think what a machine shop would charge to make one.
Do you have a flywheel that has a tapered cone that fits between it or are you typing about the taper of the threads?
It might be a lot less hassle just to buy a flywheel for it than trying to get one made. I'd hate to think what a machine shop would charge to make one.
#7
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RE: flyweel help
When your working with locking tapers, there's a certain specs they are machined to that define the angle. They are really no fun to have to machine but it is possible. It is very hard to set the compound rest on the lathe accurately to cut it.
If your setup is off even just a smidge, the matching tapers won't lock in very accurately, stay locked or wobble. A tapered reamer takes out some of the setup work with that, meaning it helps avoid having to swing the compound over and checking several times with two indicators, one for length and one for infeed distance to check your angle using trig tables. Plus you have to set up your indicators directly inline with the centerline of your spindle. Not an easy task.
The reamer takes the guesswork out of the angle, but you are still faced with getting the depth of the taper right. I warned you it's not really that fun.[&:]
A good way to do it (without having to be confined to a blueprint spec or existing part) is machine both the flywheel and the collet with the same setup angle, meaning not touching your compound angle setting between cutting the collet and the flywheel and make a bunch of blanks to work with if there's a chance you'll want more later.
That will give you a good start to a flywheel that will lock, but it wouldn't necessarily assure a true OD on the flywheel. An arbor to mount the flywheels in the spindle to true up the OD should also be cut using the same setup and not taken out of the machine until the flywheels have all been trued up using it.
I've been through that type of setup during my machining apprenticeship and a few times while on the job and it is VERY time consuming to get there with it but if you enjoy the challenge, it's possible.
The way I tried to explain it should all be clear as mud now. Basically, you're machining the parts "from the inside out" this time, and not from the "outside in" approach to get your accuracy.
Ron is right. You don't need a shock to the ticker by asking for a machine shop quote for this kind of job, but if I had a little lathe at home to play with on my spare time I wouldn't be afraid to at least try it like you're doing. Hope this helped!
If your setup is off even just a smidge, the matching tapers won't lock in very accurately, stay locked or wobble. A tapered reamer takes out some of the setup work with that, meaning it helps avoid having to swing the compound over and checking several times with two indicators, one for length and one for infeed distance to check your angle using trig tables. Plus you have to set up your indicators directly inline with the centerline of your spindle. Not an easy task.
The reamer takes the guesswork out of the angle, but you are still faced with getting the depth of the taper right. I warned you it's not really that fun.[&:]
A good way to do it (without having to be confined to a blueprint spec or existing part) is machine both the flywheel and the collet with the same setup angle, meaning not touching your compound angle setting between cutting the collet and the flywheel and make a bunch of blanks to work with if there's a chance you'll want more later.
That will give you a good start to a flywheel that will lock, but it wouldn't necessarily assure a true OD on the flywheel. An arbor to mount the flywheels in the spindle to true up the OD should also be cut using the same setup and not taken out of the machine until the flywheels have all been trued up using it.
I've been through that type of setup during my machining apprenticeship and a few times while on the job and it is VERY time consuming to get there with it but if you enjoy the challenge, it's possible.
The way I tried to explain it should all be clear as mud now. Basically, you're machining the parts "from the inside out" this time, and not from the "outside in" approach to get your accuracy.
Ron is right. You don't need a shock to the ticker by asking for a machine shop quote for this kind of job, but if I had a little lathe at home to play with on my spare time I wouldn't be afraid to at least try it like you're doing. Hope this helped!
#8
RE: flyweel help
If you machine both the collet and flywheel yourself the compound angle will produce the same angle on the flywheel and collet. Just turn the collet first and part it at your chosen angle. Then machine
the flywheel keeping the compound set (starting from the back of the flywheel) and your flywheel will be perfectly centered. Unless you have good instrumentation this is only valid for one matched pair
the flywheel keeping the compound set (starting from the back of the flywheel) and your flywheel will be perfectly centered. Unless you have good instrumentation this is only valid for one matched pair
#12
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RE: flyweel help
ORIGINAL: glattica
Go to [link=http://rcsuperstore.ning.com/]RC Superstore[/link] to order all of your HobbyKing Parts.
Go to [link=http://rcsuperstore.ning.com/]RC Superstore[/link] to order all of your HobbyKing Parts.
#13
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RE: flyweel help
Thanks jetpack i do have my own lathe @ home and what you said is great and to the t. I just thought that the taper was a standard taper and i could have gotten a taper reamer and i would be done with it but like toyotatruckin said for the 10 bucks it's not worth screwing around with. All i know is that iam sick of the cold weather and i am ready to get out and play. Thanks for the input guys
#14
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RE: flyweel help
Just sit back and laugh as the eastern seaboard of the US is getting hit this weekend with the white stuff! [sm=lol.gif] They like to hassle us every winter and now that they got a few measely inches they're crying their eyes out! Now they know what building season is!
I go through this every winter. Get a new boat ready to hit the liquid H2O but it's still solid. This winter I'm working on three.
I go through this every winter. Get a new boat ready to hit the liquid H2O but it's still solid. This winter I'm working on three.
#15
RE: flyweel help
But Ron, you're supposed to feel sorry for them on the coast getting their butts kicked by Mother Nature. I got the same thing last winter, not to mention having to deal with it to go to Eastern Washington every year. I think Washington is the only state that is divided by a mountain range into two distinct low areas. That being said, do I feel sorry for them?
HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HELL NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#16
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RE: flyweel help
I live right near an area that gets two things, lake effect and the Yankee Clipper coming down from Canada. The county just northwest of me gets slapped the hardest by both of them.
You probably saw Don Ferrette crying on IW and the Floridians about getting cold there.
Watching Me Time's webcast today of the NAMBA Winter Nat's tickled me, 52 degrees and dressed like it was near zero! I'd be out in a T-shirt if it got that warm here this time of the year! We actually almost hit 50 last Sunday but back to 1 degree on Friday not counting the wind chill factor.
You probably saw Don Ferrette crying on IW and the Floridians about getting cold there.
Watching Me Time's webcast today of the NAMBA Winter Nat's tickled me, 52 degrees and dressed like it was near zero! I'd be out in a T-shirt if it got that warm here this time of the year! We actually almost hit 50 last Sunday but back to 1 degree on Friday not counting the wind chill factor.
#19
RE: flyweel help
I've been getting scattered rain and low 50's pretty much the last 3 weeks. We did have some cold spellsback in December, low teens to single digits for a week or two. I can just imagine them getting that in the Carolinas and into Florida. Those in Florida probably haven't seen an ice scraper in decades
#20
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RE: flyweel help
We have been so lucky this year we where running the boats till mid November and we usualy stop mid October. Come to think of it i have not even used the snow blower this year ( now watch i opened my big yap and we will get hammered ) This not normal for Canada ehhhh...