daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Guys, please keep this thread about the Coupe and not about politics. You can PM each other and discuss the other stuff privately. Why clutter up a great thread?


David

Obee

Hmm,
I'm mixing fuel today 32;1 Pennzoil air cooled break in ratio for the Still new G26 ei. The plane balances well with 2 1100 A123 batteries snuggled up to the fuel tank and the elevator servos in the tail. Starting duties are performed with My Bosch 36 V drill and a starter cone and the TSA transport starting Assembly. For a safe and easy start. I know these things are easily flip started but I have a right hand ring finger that had a near death experience with a wood 23 x8 prop so he doesn't like being assigned chicken stick duty. Besides it gave me an excuse to buy a Bosch tool. Probably just a shake down run today, looking for leaks or loose parts. I don't have a pilot figure carved yet but I think TSP may send me one of his or at least give me permission to reproduce his likeness for a co pilot. I would also like to have or assist in getting some Mono coupe Brotherhood shirts made up. I have some logo art saved that may work well (three birds with Mono coupe font). When I flew my first coupe I was surprised how well it flew. The one thing was to be aware that it is a tail dragger and to be smooth with the take off run. I had a scary lift off as a result of too much throttle and elevator. It doesn't like to be horsed up. When the rain gives me a chance I'll maiden the Coupe and post a video here for the entertainment of the brothers. So brothers keep the posts (Non Political) coming in TSPs absence and we will come through this. What doesn't kill you will make you stronger.

Obee#11

Lifer

My Feedback: (1)

Obee,


My Coupe flies great as well. My old radio didn't have dual rates for the rudder so I had to compromise with enough rudder for ground steer resulting in too much for smooth takeoff. I have since upgraded to the new Airtronics SD-10 and when it warms up here in the Midwest, I'll try it with a triple-rate radio.

Engine: SPE 40cc

Propeller: Master Airscrew Scimitar 20X8 wood.

Airplane: Stock with servos in the back/balanced right on the money. Have about 40 flights on it. Favorite manuever; high speed, low pass.

The only thing I changed was to deviate from the instructions and used 4-40 nylon bolts from Sig to attach the wheelpants. No more breakage after a mild oops.

(Do you think the moderator will react to the fact that I used the word "deviate.")

Lifer

OldFart1

Mine's on hold - still having idle issues with the G26. From a lot of replies on a thread I started elsewhere, starting to suspect the front seal.

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I ask nicely to please keep the thread on topic. 2 out of 3 had to get a jab in. Yet the mods are the bad guys?

PLEASE keep this thread on topic.

David

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I ask nicely to please keep the thread on topic. 2 out of 3 had to get a jab in. Yet the mods are the bad guys?

PLEASE keep this thread on topic.

David

dsquire

This post says that it is in Reply to OldFart1s post which said

"Mine's on hold - still having idle issues with the G26. From a lot of replies on a thread I started elsewhere, starting to suspect the front seal".

Could you please explain to me what is off topic about this post? Also, why the double post 1 minute apart?

Cheers

Don

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Don, I simply used the fast reply box, as did you, which replys to the last post. The double post was a computer issue on my end.

David

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Yikes!

Ummm, I see you guys redecorated while I was away today......


Okay, here's the story.....

Don't pick on daveopam, he is here AT MY REQUEST to try and help keep us here and on the air. He is trying to be here to monitor for when I post so mine don't sit there unapproved for days, so things can be as normal as possible while I try to go through channels to get myself taken off Moderated status if possible.

AND he is VERY good people.

The wheels turn slowly, so it may take a little time to find out whether I'll even be heard on this. Dave cannot change that, he does not have the power.

If they won't hear me, we can always move elsewhere.

I thank all of you guys for the TREMENDOUS show of support, I can say without a doubt that I've never had such a great bunch of friends in my whole life. I am humbled.

So let's all be civil to daveopam (That's rule # 1 for now), and let's try to keep things as normal as possible for the time being. I think we said what needed saying. Now we'll wait. But let's be the Coupe Brotherhood while we wait, we want to be proud of our actions no matter what the outcome of this.

My glasses must be dirty, the screen is all blurry....

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Jeff, what are the symptoms? Does it start and then die right away? I've used GE Silicone and packed it around a seal, and smeared it over the seal as well. and then tried it. It doesn't fix it, but if the engine starts and runs for 15 or 30 seconds instead of 3, then I know the seal is bad.

dsquire

David

Understood. Thanks


Don

OldFart1

Starts, runs only at higher throttle settings - dies below 3500 or so. Swapped to the bigger carb, still no idle - but now bogs on top end (classic overcarburation symptom). Carb gaskets/passages are good.

RHarding

My Feedback: (3)

Try a carb from a G-23.

Richard

AJsToyz

Jeff,

If it wasn't mounted in your plane I'd say use the old spray can of oil trick. Fire it up, get it where you can keep it running but just barely and start giving little spritz's around the suspect area's.

Andy

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

Sounds like the seal could be the culprit, since it is working only when it floods with enough that it can't be leaned out by the air leak. A seal is a good next item to try, it sounds very likely. Cheap enough too. If you have a Kavan Bearing near you they can match the seal(s)...usually.

OldFart1

Don't think it's the carb, Richard - it ran fine on my 100" Cub with that carb (before Mother Earth jumped up and bit my innocent Cub!) - but out of curiosity, which Walbro is the 23 carb using?

Andy, we went through a lot of WD-40 trying to pick out an intake leak - no joy. Once this rain goes away, I'll light her off again and try some more. Unless I get bored tonight and start taking it apart out of spite and general meaness

AJsToyz

Since they are easy to take apart, I'm with you ,show it what happens when it won't run!

OldFart1

I already showed it my 1911 - I don't think Zenoah's scare easy

I think I just need to bring a better cigar to build night....

AJsToyz

Is yours a flywheel version or electronic ?

When the fool that put my Ultra Stick together [sm=75_75.gif] reversed the ailerons, I drove the right wing in very hard and crushed the muffler. I thought it was all fine, crank was straight, muffler looked silly but it would not low idle. I had another EI and swapped it out, and that was it! 37.00 plus a few hours to put it back together and it flew great!

and thats why I have never let anyone set my planes up !! LOL [sm=lol.gif]

OldFart1

It's the magneto (flywheel) version. Except for the fact that the mag versions are damn near inpossible to start by flipping - they've always worked for me (and between my buddy and me we have starters all the way up to 150cc)

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I may be preacing to the choir here. But I help a friend a lot with his mag G-62. The prop location seams to be key. On his if the prop it to far to the left against compression (when facing it) then the magnet does not get a good pass by the pick up bofore your follow through. If that makes sense. In other words the magnet need a good strong pass by the coil as you kick it over. Like I said this may be old hat for you guys, but is easy to start by hand when set right.

David

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

So Dave, you're saying that the sensor placement / closeness to the magnet is critical to getting a good strong reading? Or that you need to start the "throw" from a point further back to make sure it passes completely over the whole magnet area when following through?

(Or both?)

Maybe throw in one of OldFart's better cigars for good measure...

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

I let a friend set up a plane for me years ago. On the second flight a poorly-soldered lnkage on an elevator came undone.[:@]

That's why I never let anybody else set up my planes for me either! And any work I have done, like adding floats, etc, I check out VERY thoroughly before even thinking about taking it to the field. I'm slow but I'm careful. It only takes one linkage and down ya go.[&o]

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

This may get a double post as my computer is still acting up a bit.

What I meant to say in the garble from above. If the engine is against compression and then flipped the magnet is past or partially past the coil. If the prop is against compression at 11:00. Then it needs to go forward to 2:00 and then flipped from there. This will insure the magnet gets a good push past the coil and through compression all in one flip. This should get a good strong spark on the first flip.

David

AJsToyz

There is a guy at our field that has a little starting assist gizmo. Its an electronic set up just for starting the engine. He plugs in a 4.8v pack to start it and it keeps the timing down , then after its running he removes the pack. Its pretty cool, the G62 goes from a mild mannered puppy to a beast when he unplugs the battery.

Andy