trickydevil

There is a ready available micro processor unit available for this very type of problem, from S.M. Services.
It's called "screw jack controller", believe it or not! It's about half way down the page if you paste in the link below.

http://www.smservices.net/acatalog/L...del_Units.html

Hope this is some help,

Richard

Larry3215

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks Richard!

Boeing314

Here's a link to the video of my retracts installed in my Cessna 310:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2oViHbOuDY

Larry3215

My Feedback: (2)

Very nicely done!!!

mark_d

I'm not sure Larry. You could use a programmable controller to interpret the pwm in and a stepper driverat each actuator to drive them with out the need for feedback.

Boeing314

We tried using the stepper motors but found them very low in torque and consumed a LOT of power...they got quite hot.

Larry3215

My Feedback: (2)

I was looking at those and the total cost of a stepper and controllers puts it out of the price range too.

I havent seen anything that can compete with what Tom came up with originally as far as cost.

If it wasnt for the programing of the controllers, anyone could do it

monocoupe

My Feedback: (40)

Boeing 314,

The Cessna landing gear is impressive! Thanks for the video.

Richard,

Thanks for the link to SM. I contacted them and unfortunately (for me anyway) the unit is for end points only. Great for this thread's topic of landing gears!

Cheers, Nigel

Boeing314

Thanks, Monocoupe.

Just an update on our progress.

Boards: I just got two of the dual layer boards from China 2 hrs ago. Here's a pic of one of them, and I must say I'm very impressed with the quality we got. We're going to fab up this board for the second prototype (I ordered 3 more motors to make a set of stronger retract units). My programmer has made more changes to the board design, however. The second generation board we'll be making is half the size of this one (and therefore half the cost). I'll be meeting with him in Norman, OK on Tuesday. I'm going there myself for and electronics course, and won't be back til May 25th.

Software: We've updated the electronics code to get rid of some troublesome software bugs we were having. I'm hoping to try the new program in my Cessna on June 12th, where we'll be flying it in Denver for a few days for testing. I hope to work on the project later this spring after my class lets out.

stagger123

My Feedback: (19)

looking for help with my e flite bonanza .iam snapping my front wheel in the grass on landings 8 flights snapped two front gear .anyone have a fix or suggestion thanks
Staggerr

vampire67

Hope I'm not the killjoy.
Just found this chinese electrical gears: http://easytigermodels.com/index.php...roducts_id=171

Assuming from the look and the cables running to each gear it seems to have no limit switches and is likely based on the same idea as being discussed here.
Could of cause also being simpler and just timer related.

Anything usable from the controller front yet ?
I'm about to modify a pair of mechanical retracts with the geared motors.
But I can use it only with a matching controller.

Those china PCB seems strange to me.
They seems not to contain the controller or the motor driver.
Or is this a deception?

I would rather suggest doing a simple 1/2 channel controller with controller and driver on board.

Peter

vampire67

Upppps, double post ...

Boeing314

I am currently in school, so cannot work on the project atm. I'm waiting for version 3 of the retract board to come back from the printer which will allow the user to define the limits of the gear doors and their timing without the use of a computer. The newest version of the code requires us to assemble the new board. Here's a pic of the version 1 board assembled:

vampire67

Do I get this right that the board is just a breadboard to wire the connections to the motor drivers and is somehow attached to the Arduino board ?

Peter

Boeing314

Yes. Its a circuit board designed with standoffs to attach to the top of the Arduino board, providing a fast and convenient way to tie the two motor controllers, switches and servo outputs to one board. You can power it several ways, including from the Arduino itself, or a separate battery supply just for the servos. The newer version of this will be much smaller, about half this size. It also makes use of the newer programming (which includes gear door control) after all the gear are successfully retracted.

cjbotox

My Feedback: (11)

Alright, I've gotta do this. I have a pair of Robart 630's and I'm totally sold on this electric DIY concept. Need help on  basic key components.I understand the motor and where to get it. But could someone please submit a detailed list of all those other parts? Tom mentions 'clamshells" and limit switches, 4-40 all thread, what about drilling and tapping the drive sleeve (existing) in the unit that connects to the pneumatic arm?

And I like the idea of 'pressure' bearings installed but at what two points?

When I'm done with these babies, I'll be back for the electronics, which won't be difficult for me, my friend's an electronic engineer.

Thanx

cjbotox

My Feedback: (11)

Hold the phone - found answer to my question by looking back over the thread on POST95.

And should anyone else have missed the DIY spot like I did, check out Tom's forum at: http://www.laureanno.com/RC/E-Retracts.htm

John

TOMAPOWA

My Feedback: (1)

I finally got my DIY retracts in the wing of my Zero... tested sat.... probably fly her in the next week or so... weather permitting.
(video taken with iphone so quality is hokey... but it gets the point across).

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4Gvh_WvmFw[/youtube]

Down and Locked

Guys if you are in need of electric retracts at Down And Locked we offer conversions for most all brand's of retracts on the market old, new, air or mechanical, If interested take a look at www.downandlocked.com and visit the FAQ or feature's page for a full description of what these offer and how they work. Then give us a call or email we would love to hear from you. Thanks Mitch Stott

4DFlyer

Wow that is one shamless plug Mitch!
I thought this was a DIY Retract thread. Looks likeyou "took" the fellas idea and exploited it man! Shame Shame...

secatur

What GearMotor did you use ?

secatur

Does anyone know if the controller unit for the smaller electric tri gear sets (Easy tiger F100) available would support larger motors ? If yes, this could solve the controller problem.

cjbotox

My Feedback: (11)

Thanks Mitch for letting us know you're out there, and I see you have a honorable track record. I am too busy/lazy for a DIY project like this and even though I have already started on the basic mods, I'd rather do business with you. This thread has been very interesting and informative, but the underlying sum (especially near the beginning) was the lack of commercial interest to answer the present need. My only question is WHEREHAVEYOUBEEN? I've been looking/googling electric retract systems for almost a year now, and this was where I finally landed.

NOTE: this guy's web site shows at least 2 years of manufacturing retro fits for ANY brand retract, and an up-front post to backlog wait with a gaurantee not to charge/bill until ready for shipment.

John

kenh3497

I see it's been almost one year since anybody has posted about the DIY E-Tracts. I, like many here, have no problem with the mechanical side of the hobby, but electrical stuff quickly overwhelms me. I’m good with an iron as long as I’m told “pin A in hole B then solder”.

Down and locked looks to have a nice product, but it’s frustrating not to be able to get an idea on pricing without making contact. Gosh, how hard would it be to give half a dozen examples and the cost???

edit; E-mailed D&L. $350 average cost to mod my exsisting retracts! To rich for my blood

So, What has been the progress on the electronics to control the screw jacks? It sounded like good thing coming and we are left hanging.

Thanks!

Ken

Jag Fan

you can always go to www.wingspanretracts.com and check those guys out. they sell linear actuators to replace the air cylinders on your air retracts and is a cheaper option than down and locked. worth looking into at least.

Rich