cydog510

the "racing slicks" that come with the kit are garbage, get some HPI x-patterns. ball bearingings are a must, the stock sillver can is 27t so i would get a 23t RZ or TZ super sport motor, real good torque and RPM, the kit in question has the 'long" wheel base (or standard TT-01 wheel base), basically for the BMW Z3 kit it has the rear A arms flipped to make the wheel base smaller. ebay or tower or RCmart are your friends when it comes to hop-ups, i would suggest propeller shaft and upgrade the steering assembly ball bearings, new tyres. that's really all is needed for this kit, anything more is strictly for looks, it is a seriously base kit, i love it though, and there is definately a limit to noticeable upgrades. i know this from experience, i hopped- up my TT-01 with almost everything and didn't really find a difference. i would also buy some aluminum steering knuckles and TGS parts bag with the shock mounts. good luck and have fun!

xzam_12

hi everyone. just need to ask one question, have any of you guys installed a ball diff at the front / rear? does it have any improvement in term of the performance compare to the stock one?

Cannon Fodder

Has anyone tried running the long axle stubs front/rear to make the car 190mm wide?

Thanks.

cydog510

yes, i have done it, they are the axles from the ferrari kit. you have to use wide hexes, or epoxy 2 toghether, works well.
ball diff on the rear seams to help with power transfer, but this chassis i would say, save your money.

Timbulb

Does anyone know the part number for these long axles? and who sells them?

Cannon Fodder

Some one tell me if I'm wrong, but I believe this is the kit that comes with one set of short axles and one set of long axles.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...5&I=LXETJ1&P=K

I just hate you have to order 2 parts trees to get the wide hexes.

moflow

Hey guys,

A couple of months ago i bought an XB TT01-D. I love it, and drift it probably 4 times a week. However one thing that's always bothered me is that it seems to get weaker until my Nimh batteries run out. I realize this can be fixed by switching to Lipo batteries, (which seem to be getting pretty cheap). My question is this: will my stock ESC be able to handle Lipo? Its the TEU 104 or whatever. I know you need some sort of voltage cutout, but my esc alredy shuts down if it detects low voltage from my Nimh, will that work for lipo or will i need one of these: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPGM8&P=7

Thanks!

Felix

Bok

The TEU104 can handle 2S lipo, but you will need a cutoff. I use a Novak smart Stop, it works great. Wired mine to a deans-to-deans cable, that way I can easily transfer them to my other cars.

avenali

hey all,

i was hoping to get some input from you all about gearing on my TT-01R. i recently got a LRP GT3 Turbo 14x2 motor and i dont really know where to start with gearing. i will be running it with a 2 cell lipo and mostly just drive around in a parking lot and am looking for something that won't overheat the motor. i dont really have a lot of gears to test with so thats why i'm asking here, but i can order whatever is recommended. i have the 55, 58, and 61 tooth spur gears that came with the kit and a 22 tooth pinion that i got for the stock gt tuned motor. let me know what you think.

thanks,
adam

moflow

Thanks Bok. appreciate the response!

Felix

Ttam Says Blarg

Im kind of lost. I dont know why. My motor is HOT after a 20 min run. So hot that I cant touch it for more than about 4 secs. Im using stock gearing with a 27 turn motor by fantom.

Ttam Says Blarg

Ok well after a little bit of searching I realized that I was using a 19 turn pinion from my durga and had left the stock on the silver can. Would a 23 turn pinion make my temps hotter or cooler?

sanshu

i don't know what the experts would say ... but i think it's normal for your motor to get hot after a 20 min run
i think you should buy a heat sink... maybe it would help a little

schaubro1

is there a way to convert the TT-01 to standard pitch spur and pinion gears?

thanks,
tim

Vietnam RC

Test run with 3 batteries



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YsHJ_wHxnu0

NatX

hey guys! I got a TT01E Drift Spec for a while and upgraded some parts with (Yeah Racing Conversion kit, 3racing front one way and aluminium solid shaft for the rear) .

I use this car for drifting and solely for that purpose.

However, recently, after the upgrades, I have felt that the power has seemed to drop and I am wondering if there is anything else I can do to modify my TT01E, looking for input in 2 areas in particular:

1 - Gears: What are my options? What is the best ratio for drifting(highest torque, what numbers?)? If anyone has heard of countersteer drifting what do I have to do to get my car to do that?
2 - Brushless Setup: Again, what are my options? ESC and motor as well as lipos (i have been using NiMh)
3 - Any other hop ups that are useful or important for drifters?


Thanks in advance guys! (=

Haddi Taha

hi i have a tamiya tt01e and i have
alloy motor heatsink
alloy prop shaft
ballbearings
alloy swing shafts, alloy dog bones
alloy spood diff
alloy front knuckle arms
and a 9T EZRUNSensorless Brushless Motor, though it 's to over powered and i am only using a nimh 7.2V instead of its max capicity of 11.1V Lipo. My Spur gears keep gring every time i go full power. Any Help, i screw them in the right place so is ther like an alloy spur gear or some something else ican do to stop the wear? others with thye same motor dont have this probs on there tt01's and tt01'e so wat do u guys think i am doing wrong.
thanks

Haddi Taha

well if your car is wide tread it doe i dont know wat that means but see the hop up manual with your tt01 or tt01 e manual

Haddi Taha

hi guys iuse a 9t EzRUN brushlessand my spur gear makes a grindinding noise when i go full speed. wat can i do to stop it from happening, my spur gears only last a week or 2 before being unuseasble. I screw the screws in the right place on the motor mount. Any Hop ups needed other than
alloy motor heatsink
alloy prop shaft
ballbearings
alloy swing shafts, alloy dog bones
alloy spood diff
alloy front knuckle arms
And is there such a thing as metel spurs and would they help? thanks

Haddi Taha

hi bok my gear comb is 25/55 and my spur is crunchingif i go full pedel. I am using same motor as yours except its the 9T version and a tt01e platform.Any help, thanks

Bok

Haddi Taha,

I think the problem is that your pinion gear is worn out, causing it to strip your spur gear. I recently had the same problem. The stock Tamiya pinion is too soft and wears out too quickly, especially with brushless power. I'm using the stock 19/61 gearing, so I upgraded to Tamiya's 49232 (Hard Coated 0.6 Aluminum Pinion Gear 19T/TL-01). You can also use ones from Robinson Racing, they should last longer than the standard Tamiya "AV" pinions.

Stripped spur gear


Worn out pinion


Hopup pinion on the left, stock pinion on the right


Here's the pinion gear I upgraded to (pic from rcmarket.com.hk)

Haddi Taha

thanks bok yr right, i will go to the hobby shop to get some better pinions and spurs.

eyezon

Hi all.. am new to this and thought i should become a member to find out things people do to there rc car..


anyway back to the reason why i am here.. i have a TT-01 tamiya...and i just wna try putin a 12T brushless motor in it.. but the thing is .. i wanted to use a hoobywing ezrun 12T one.. so i bought the motor and the problem is.. that the motor obvisly doesnt have the flat piece for the pinion to lock on ..like the tamiya onces have a flat surface on the motor where the pinion goes..so any other idea how i can make this EZRUN 12t motor run ?

cydog510

it should have a flat section of the shaft.....you may not be able to see it or it may be a defect.....

eyezon

i have looked at it carefully and it doesnt have the flat area.. even if you look up the motor online.. it doesnt show it . a standard o any tamiya motor has it.. thanks for the reply tho..il have a loook at it again