dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

LongIslander: Are you building this kit now? If so lets see some pictures, I love pictures of builds. It gives me ideas on what to do with mine.

Alex7403

my chippy is also all twisted somehow the tray of the stab is in diagonal to the left and the whole tail looking to the right I dont know how that happened but im twisting it back with water and clamps.
I stopped bending it now because I'll have to do it more when the wing will be sitting and do it relative to the wing.
I dont really care about it I had worse mistakes than this one and the airplanes flew and flying very well....

LongIslander

Alex,

Yes, im building it now. I have completed most of the structural work and began covering the wing today. I am going you use a side mounted OS .75 AX with a Bisson pitts muffler. I moved the servro tray forward about 4 inches and will be using golden rod push rods over the stock equipment. I also have afiberglass cowl. Here are the pics.

Alex7403

It looks good longIslander,
Goldenrod is it getting longer with heat? because its happened with all nylon rods I used so I'm using sullivan composites now.
you moved the servo tray forward - did you try to balance it or is that what i should expect?
stock equipment is so poor - the T nuts couldnt be screwed into to the wood.

gmohr

Lookin good, Greg. I like the blue/white bottom!

-G

Alex7403

Houston we have a problem

I dont know how that happened but i'm looking for an easy way out of it.

I'm thinking maybe to shorten the longer stab side by 1/8"

The question is where is the worst mistake in that picture - what inaccuracy gives the worst flight behavior so I’ll focused on that one?

Saw, sand block, stressing clamps and wet rags here we go.

Thanks
Alex

gmohr

IMO... and you aren't going to like this... is the 28 1/2 to 28 3/4 discrepancy. The difference in lift will affect every flight regime, from takeoff to landing. I'd fix that one, and while you are at it (changing the wing screw down blocks) you might as well fix the 35 1/4 to 34 7/8 dimension as well. The stab looks fine to me.

Regards,
G

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Get some 1/8" sheeting.

Add a piece to the RH side of the stab and sand flush with the top/bottom/LE/TE

Add 2 pieces to the RH side of the wing and sand flush with the wing.

Now both sides are even. Remeasure the other distances and work from there

LongIslander

I solved my wing issue by scrapping the plastic wing tips and making my own from balsa. I made one bigger than the other to accountfor the length difference.

Alex7403

Thanks MinnFlyer and Gmohr,
Some times a problem looks much bigger when you are in it.
your advices Minnflyer sounds so easy and clear I'm usually doing it right away.

Alex

LongIslander

Here are the pics of the completed wing.

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

Looks pretty good! Keep up the good work.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

Hey guys
Finally got the chance to do a little work on the ol chipmunk. Got her up on wheels, canopy fitted all sheeting done and a lot of sanding with a lot more sanding to go.
I couldnt be happier with how it looks. How are your guys chipmunk coming along? Havent seen anything posted in awhile.
Here are a few pictures.

Alex7403

I finally connected the engine, the fin and he tail fairings.
Besides I got a new radio hitec A9 and i was busy studying it and use it, crashed my Ultra sport 60 (didnt come out of it yet...), fixed older airplane to fly.
Did brake in to this tower 75 motor, every possible part got loose and tried to run away...

Dragonov3 very nice airplane, I see you didnt drill the tail fairings for rudder rod or you did?
I got a 7/32 hard brass tubing to drill this but I cannot see how to do it carefully - I want to use sullivan composit rods for the tail.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

1. I originally planed on an OS 46 motor, so I built the firewall accordingly, now I want to put a 60-powered motor in it so I will need to reset the engine mount. I did put the spacer block of plywood to bring the 46 out to the required position. So my question here is, if the engine sits out to fare, can I fix this with the cowl, or do I need to remove the spacer block.
2. I also glued the bottom plywood cover at the firewall before drilling out the dowel for the wing. I think I can get around this, just more work.
3. My third mistake is minor but just wanted some feed back. I glued the plywood supports for the wing bolts to far forward, so instead of removing them, I just added another piece. The only thing I see here is that it is not a continuous piece.

Alex7403

Hi TonyBuilder,
1. IF the engine sits too far you can attach the cowl to fit or in worst case redrill the engine mount or to get a new engine mount, your issue is if the screw pattern in the fire wall matchs the engine mount for a bigger engine - that is why I'm using the GP adjustable engine mount - I didnt know what engine I'm gonna put there.

you can seal the existing screw holes in the the fire wall with a dwell and epoxy and redrill new holes, it can be done, what you need to keep in mind is the center mark on the fire wall for the engine shift-crank if you dont see it refer to the plans.
if you are redrilling the fire wall holes it makes sense to get a bigger engine mount like GP adjustable 60-120 or other.

2. no problem I moved my wing to the right 1/8" by closing that hole with dwell and epoxy and redrilling it at the same height 1/8" to the right.
What you need to pay attention to here is the wing incidence - the LE and TE are the same level as in the plans = same height from the fuse top ply wood line that you can take from the plans.
Redrilling I'm doing with hand drill bits starting with the smalles and enlarging the hole with bigger drill bit until I get to the desired diameter not with 1/4" bit right away.

3. I dont see any problem.

I'm not using the supplied hardware the T nuts couldnt penetrate the wood, the engine mount I didnt like also.
with all the mistakes I'm doing while building my kit built airplanes fly better and outlast any ARF! I'm planning to finish this airplane and to build another Ultra Sport 60.

Alex

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

Alex4703: I havent drilled the fairings for the rudder control rod yet, will probably do that tonight, or I might work on mounting the engine and cowl. Leaning toward working on the engine and cowl.
I bought that same radio about a month or so ago. I have been using it in my midget Mustang. I havent had any problem with it. It is easier to program than my other radios, I like it alot.
I am going to drill the fairings with a long drill bit, the hole probably wont be perfect but micro balloons and epoxy should fix any cosmetic problems I might have. I cant remember how I did it on my first chipmunk.
Sorry to hear about your Ultra Sport. I have that kit also, I will build it someday. I will be building a BTE Flying King after the Chipmunk as a trainer to teach my kids how to fly. That should be fun.

Tonybuilder:
My answer to question #1. Check where the engine sits against the plans first. You can adjust the cowl a little if it isnt exact, just make sure you have enough cowl to attach to the fuselage.
#2. Just make sure it is accurate.
#3 The plywood supports for the wing hold down bolts are there to keep the bolts from pulling thru the wing. These will be covered up by the pastic belly pan.
What you did should be alright, just make sure the belly pan still fits.

Alex7403

dragonov3: epoxy and micro balloons will do, I'm using canopy glue because its nylon/plastic to wood and making the pushrod sleeve rough with sandpaper.
just a drill bit will make a big hole there because of the flat angle to the fairing in the instructions manual they are suggesting using a rod, anyway show us how you did it.
Yes the A9 is great, not the radio crashed my airplane but the impatient to be done with the range check to to get it in the air, I flew it in scan mode...

The Ultra sport builds much easier than the chipmunk, I was planning on TF p-47 60 size after this but I cannot get good retracts for either of them so lets see maybe I'll just build the US wing.

Alex

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

TB

Alex7403

dragonov3: that tail wheel rod that goes into the rudder - if you installed it means you glued it and have to cover the airplane with it sticking out, my problem is that slot on the stab that the tail fairing created, I want to close it and sand it but how much to close it because I'll have to let the tail wheel rod to go through..

I glued the nylon sleeve last night and waiting for it to dry, no big drama just drilled it with hard brass tube.

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

Alex7403. I have not glued in the tail wheel bracket yet, I will glue in the tail wheel bracket after I have covered the plane. I will probably use a piece of monocote to cover the hole that the rod goes thru under the rudder. I installed the rudder control rod and servo today, wasnt to hard to do. Nice job installing the rudder control dor tube on your plane.

TonyBuilder

My Feedback: (11)

TB

Alex7403

TB,
Hinges: I'm planing to use Sig CA hinges because I got used to them and I like to hinge with glue , sand and than cover.
Dubro nylon I dont like very much and the point hinge is difficult for me to line them all and not to get the knock.

dragonov3

My Feedback: (3)

I am using the Robart medium hige points. Used to use the CA hinges, but I like the hinge points better. Nothing wrong with the CA hinges, I just like using the hinge points.
Use what you feel the most comfortable with.
Dan

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I would avoid those flat hinges with the cotter pins. I hate those things! CA, or Robarts