Elnino

yeah, it still is stamped as such but it's an I beam style vs sort of an oval type like earlier models.

spaceworm

One failure cited earlier had the bottom end spread out and the lower bearing was gone. It would seem better to extend the I beam around the lower part of the rod, but I am guessing that would have created case clearance problems??? Does someone have a oicture of the "twin slotted case" Thanks, I haver a Ryan enginer that I would like to convert, but I am not sure what I really have. TIA

Richard

cutarug

My ryobi ,bowman ring, 140 timing, thinner gasket, ignition module and wt540 carby, slots in cylinder turned a 18 x 8 @7400 but the 12 dia carby gave problems with the idle and the high speed needle dropped out as it was wound out that far to make it run.
I went back to the wt526 carby and the 18 x 8 gave me 6800 rpm but hunted between 6400 and 6800 and I could not get it to run at top speed without hunting. Idle was 1400 rpm and smooth.
I was not happy with the level of vibration either, in a plane it would shake the servos to pieces. Can a ryobi conversion be expected to run with vibration levels compariable to glow engines or am I "dreaming" .
Do you have to use rubber mounts on the stand-offs or is it better to bolt to a solid ply firewall?
Has anyone got a video of a ryobi at full power to demonstrate the level of vibration you can expect.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most of the Phelon flywheels on Ryobi's are out of balance. ( some early Ryobi's rely on the flywheel for total balance so use caution here)

On my Ryobi, the flywheel was more out of balance than my McColluch, Homelite, or Weed Eater flywheels.

I balance the flywheels on a Dubro Prop balancer and use a die grinder with a carbide A11 burr.

spaceworm

If you convert to Electronic CDI on the early Ryobis with the flywheel used for balance, how do you then balance the engine when you get rid of the flywheel. TIA

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

Ummm.... you don't. I ran into that problem, and had to change the crankshaft and crankcase to a newer model. You could possibly help the problem with a purposely out of balance prop, but it would take a lot of guess work and experimentation.

See here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8313441/tm.htm

AV8TOR

combatpilot

Damn i cant belive this thread is still going. I cant remeber the last time i posted. anyhow i finally ordered my new electronic ignition. i am getting it from southearst rc engines and they got this cool tach add on. man thats gona be sweet and take all the guess work out of using them crappy hand held units. I should have my ultra spad stick ready to go again in a week or two. sorry i wont be doing any more R&D but im glad to see you all continuing on

Twin Star

Welcome Back!

captinjohn

Combatpilot....it is good to see you back. Looks like by the photos, you have lots of fun flying! Capt,n

balsa brain

Darn sure nice for you to check back in Mr. Combat.

combatpilot

Its darn good to be back. I have been so busy i just havent had the time to do anything fun. It has slowed down just enough to be able to dust off some planes and get back to the field. Still not going to do any R&D at this time. Just dont have the time still. I really want to get back to doing some combat flying also. I got a new combat plane to build up. HMMMMM ryobi combat anyone????

Flathead

My Feedback: (11)

Hey Combat, good to have you back, things are windy in Goodland, so have been building on several engines. Have a RYOBI all ported and running good to put back on the ULTRA 120. Will keep the results here. Flathead

balsa brain

I kinda got into this conversion thing a few months back but soon realized I was over my head several ways. So I put the motor back in the junk box and designed and built a plane to put it on. That is framed up now and i am back to the engine again.

I just want to ask for some advice here. If I put the flywheel on my Delta stationary belt sander and take the fins down with that am I gonna be doing something wrong? I don't have machine work abilities or the tools. I realize it has to be even and balanced in the end and I think I can take care of that. I took it down a little tonight and measured everything and it was all even and looked good.

The plane I built has a 77 inch wingspan with a 15 inch cord. In the bones with the motor mount installed and all control surfaces hinged it weighs 5 lbs. and 3 ounces. It kinda reminds me of a stick with a more modern look. The airfoil is a NACA 2415. It is 56 inches from the back of the prop to the hinge line on the rudder. The control surfaces are generous.

I appreciate in advance any input you folks may have to offer on this adventure.

Thanks,

Bill

Twin Star

You can send you flywheel out to be cut and ballanced. It will cost around $25. Try these guys http://www.indianatinygasengines.com/page1.aspx

Post some pics of your plane project.

balsa brain

I have took pics of my plane and sent them to Tinypic but that is as far as i have made it for posting pics. I tried doing the upload like Combat said but its not working for me. I will keep trying maybe with another picture host.

rangerfredbob

My Feedback: (13)

just turning the flywheels down in a lathe doesn't remove that much weight (a handful of grams I would guess), a better bet is to take some pliers and bust off the full fins that oppose each other, I leave the base of them (1/32") as to not weaken the support they give. I try to do it as even as possible, they end up coming out close to balanced. I recently got a Dubro balancer to even them out, works pretty good with some work to get the hub to center.

zoom in on the attached image (if it worked, haven't used the new upload thing yet) and you can kinda see what I do on the poulans, would be easier to see if they didn't use backwards flywheels...

balsa brain

I took it down today using my sander and it is 1 1/16 all the way around and it looks pretty good so I will see what I have soon maybe. Are you guys just using a prop balancer to balance these flywheels? My stepson and his girlfriend will be around here sometime this weekend and will show me what I am not doing right on posting the pics. I have them up on my facebook account.
Thanks for the replies.

Bill

av8tor1977

My Feedback: (6)

A friend of mine carefully broke the fins off just above the surface of the flywheel, then ground them down flush, and polished the flywheel. Then I balanced it on my Dubro prop balancer. It is on a Homelite 25cc that I souped up for him. He likes how it runs/flies with a 15 x 8 prop, and it turns over 9400 rpms. He has been flying it for a couple of years now with no problems...

AV8TOR

combatpilot

I got my new ignition from southeast rc engines and got it in the plane today. night and day difference from ordering the xyz ignition. you get so much more from southeast rc engines. not only do you get the ignition box and the sensor but you also get a nice little assortment of extras you dont get with the xyz ignition. It may just be me but I swear it runs better also. it starts so easy, just one flip and whammo its running and idles great. I was getting a little cutting out at high rpms and then i realized the plug socket was not on all the way. a small adjustment there and this thing sings.

THANKS SO MUCH Southeat RC Engines

I also like knowing it has a warranty and tech support I can talk to.

The recipt was even hand signed. nice to see that level of customer appreciation.

balsa brain

Here's a few pictures of the plane:

Twin Star

Nice looking plane!

balsa brain

Thank you Twin Star. This is the first time I have ever drawn one up and cut it out and built it and it has been most enjoyable. If I had it to do again I believe I could save almost a pound. I used to much lite ply thinking that the Ryobi would shake the crap out of it. I have some more shots to put up later with the engine hung on it and some shots of the flywheel I cut down on my sander.

balsa brain

Heres a couple of shots of the flywheel after I surfaced it down on my sander and a shot of the engine with the motor mount hanging off the firewall. I have to order a prop balancer to balance the flywheel. I hope the muffler being that close to the firewall does not start a fire. I used a piece of 2 1/2 inch aluminum fence post to make the mount.

Twin Star

The only thing I see with your flywheel, that may be a concern. It appears that you buffed the center of the flywheel. Thats the area that your prop adapter will ride. If that area is not true it may cause your prop adapter to not run true and vibration may result.

Scota4570

I am fairly new to the conversion bug. Some of these guys have orders of magnitude more experience than I. Maybe I am off base here. After doing some research my first step in the conversion hobby was to buy a quality ignition module. I have never done an engine that uses a flywheel. Weight, vibration, RFI, needing a starter, rough idle and performance compramises are things I have never had an issue with because I simply never use the stock ignition. I have an ignition for my test stand and I buy a new one for each plane. I bought a bunch of hall sensors and hundred pack of magnents. I make what I need for each project. Oh, my Ryobi runs real smooth and idles great. The top end figures are respectable. I did no internal mods other than bending the reed valve stop open a bit and chucking the jug gasket. I did make an open exhaust. I also buy new old stock carbs off of EBAY. Get some 11.1 and 13.49mm walbros with the accelerator pumps, about $10 each. Why fuss with questionalbe old carbs? These two sizes will cover most of the conversion needs. Even little engines (20cc) will run well with a 13.49 if you adust it properly. My little 20cc Stihl spins a 14x8 APC at 9500. The small carbs will be more foregiving though. I put a 13.49 on my Ryobi. I would loost the stock muffler on tht Ryobi and make something like what I attached. Make a can out of the bottom of an old fire extenguisher. Make the lid out of a piece of 1/8" flat stock with a shoulder turned to fit the inside of the can. The pipe can be a weed wacker handle or shaft and aluminum soldered in place. Use a draw bolt in the center to hold it togeher.