SuperCub Man

Good looking stuff Anthony! I have had trouble with some painting. I have used Krylon on top of nitrate dope. I have let it dry for a week and then sprayed it with white. Let it dry for a week than mask and spray with red. Then the trouble starts and the red paint curdles and lifts right down to the dope. Not sure if the dope itself is affected or not. Is there a chance that Krylon is using some lacquer thinners in their red? I have used a primer but get the same result. No trouble with Solartex and combining colors so I suspect the dope! Anyone else have this history? I don't want to get into the chemistry of auto paints - aby other choices?

WacoNut

Jim,
I had the same issue with Krylon on my 25% Waco. The Blue paint over the white did the same thing. I let the white paint cure for a week and had to be very careful spraying the blue paint. Spray very light coats, if you spray it heavy it will bubble the paint underneath. I found out the hard way on my cowling and had to repaint. I also tried spraing Krylon clear and it immediately bubbled the paint underneath. My 33% Waco will be painted with Latex, no mess or compatablility issues.
Later!!
Anthony

SuperCub Man

Anthony - Thanks for that. It confirms my bad feeling. The latex method is one I have thought of trying but being such a traditionalist, I haven't tried it. Just think - house paint on one of my beauties! But I've read Roy Vaillancourt's article and I now think it might be worth a "shot". I would use Moore's latex paint, but they say it is best to use a matte or semi-gloss paint. How would you get the high gloss finish? Would you use high gloss WB polyurethane top coat? What about the additives he reccomends? I don't know anyone who has used this method so I'd appreciate any tips. Is the spray equipment very critical? Sorry to be a pest but any info would be great!

Stickbuilder

Some paints are just not compatible with other paints. When I was doing Janelle's Waco, I had painted the red, and about a week later started to do the cream trim. It ruined a complete wing. This was not spray can stuff, but high quality automotive paint. Maybe we need to spray a coat of sealer between colors.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

SuperCubman, Jim. I used Moors Water based on a DV11 and ended-up w/a rather mottled finish, which I was unhappy with. I think ROYS system must work but as with most thinks there is a learning curve. I also had crasing w/a trim color.I think I didn't allow enought time. It'll be awhile before I try it again.

PacificNWSkyPilot

My Feedback: (19)

If you read back a ways last year, where I worked on mine, I used Home Depot Latex colors (flat) that matched up extremely close to the original. Followed it up with Lutrecoat clear , both flat and gloss Lustrecoat at different times, with no ill effects. Unfortunately I was covering some old discolored stuff that was as bumpy as an old county road. The paint stuck like crazy and I could not complain about the results.
We won't talk about the part where I was supposed to sand it down smooth as a baby's behind this winter and then respray it......it wouldn't do a bit of good, seeing as it's nearly summer now again......

LOL

I'd recommend you get some Latex from Home Depot and whatever your intended choice of clear will be, whatever it is. The Latex will need something fuel-proof over it anyway, and Latex Gloss really isn't all that shiny anyway. Paint a bunch of test areas on some cardboard. Then cover a couple of the test spots using each type of clear to test the results. You'll know when you have a winner.

~ Jim ~

WacoNut

Here is what I do when paiting Latex.
I use Behr Semi-Gloss exterior paint. I thin the paint approx 40% with windshield washer fluid(the blue cheap stuff). I then add a cap full of floetrol(purchased at Hope Depot) it helps the paint flow when sprayed. I use an HVLP gun set at 26psi of air pressure. Spray very thin coats. It will take about 4-5 coats to get an even opac finish. I cleared the planes that I have painted with Nelson's clear gloss with cross linker added to make it glow proof. It isn't necessary with a gas engine but Latex is not glow fuel proof. I am sure you could use gloss PolyC for a gloss finish if you are using a gas engine.

I am attaching a couple of pics of Latex paint jobs that I have done.
Later!!
Antony

yel914

Anthony, Nice looking planes! I'm currently finishing up painting my 2nd Ikon N'WST UPF-7 with latex paint as per Vallincourts info. Anthony's got it right on the money with the process. Instead of an HVLP, I use a cheap detail gun from Lowes, about $30.00 and very easy to clean. The clear coat over the latex has been my only problem. I can't seem to get a good spray of Nelson's clear coat, I think because of the very dry climate here. Sure I could brush it, but I'd prefer to squirt it. All that said, latex has some great advantages over other paints and is well worth the experiment.

WacoNut

Thanks!!

I also had problems when trying to spray the clear coat. I called and talked to Jerry Nelson and he explained that I needed to thin the clear coat approx 40% and raise the air pressure. I raised the pressure to 30 psi and thinned the clear with 40% water and it sprayed fine. The same as the latex you need to give it several light coats. If you are using a detail gun you may need even more pressure.
Later!!
Anthony

SuperCub Man

Gentlemen - Thank you for your input. I have been "meaning" to try this method for some time and now I have the motivation to do it. I have "part" of an old J-3 lying around and I'll use that frame to stretch some cloth and try some experiments. I guess the real trick is patience! Leaving things long enough to properly dry - or "gas out" is the secret to combining these different compomemts. We'll see!

SuperCub Man

Further to my last comment - have you ever put Latex paint directly on to Koverall on an open structure without any primer? Vaillancourt does this with Super Coverite, but it is already filled. Wondering if I can get around the dope if I go full Latex??

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

You guys should look at [link]http://stewartsystems.aero[/link]. It is a full scale system but they sell everything in quarts so for a big Waco would be about right. It is an all water base system and the glue is heat activated so you can coat a surface and then iron on the fabric. you won't have any problem with the color coats lifting or bleeding through with this product. I have used it on full scale and it works great. Don

gunner3

Any advice on what a good flying prop would be for a 1/5 scale pica waco with an OS 120 4 stroke?

Bob: WB #160

amscat

Oh boy - this gets confusing!! I was reading a little while back on another forum (RCC) where the poster advised against exterior latex (maybe Behr - Home Depot - is different?)

I'd really like to use latex because of the color match possibilities, but I fly glow, so that means adding a clear top coat, which is another can of worms! (PolyC? automotive two part? etc etc)

Any thoughts? I know there are as many different opinions as there are colours but it would be nice to get a majority opinion!

pittsdriver

My Feedback: (7)

Use interior flat latex and then a coat or two of clear butyrate dope. Works great and makes a nice finish. Don

FMBB

Hi Dan,

thanks for your warm welcome. Yes I try my best in manufacturing the Waco kits the quarter and the third scale. Currently we have just released the third scale Mark 3 with some improvements.

many happy landings Peter Waco Brother #170

skipb

My Feedback: (6)

Try a 16x6 or a 16x8, prefferably a wider blade prop, Expert or other composite props; an APC would work, looks funny.

Skipb
AMA 3079
WB 156

WacoNut

Jim,
I filled the weave on my 33% with MinWax Polycrylic. I would not attempt to paint without filling the weave. The PolyC is smell free and dries fast. I do suggest you thin it about 10% with water and apply thin(extra thin) coats with a foam brush. I have not tried spraying this stuff yet but plan to in the future.
Later!!
Anthony

yel914

OK, here's my take on the WBPU on the Koverall. The first of two planes was brushed with Minwax poly. I noticed that some pooling of the poly collected on the insides of the wing. Probably just my over doing the brushing, but the poly pooled which, once inside the wing, is hard to remove. The second plane was sprayed with poly right over the Koverall, which worked just fine. Several light coats fill the weave pretty well. I think I read on the Vallencourt site that he uses latex primer right on the Koverall. I haven't tried that yet, but plan to in the future.
I've used both interior and exterior latex on theses planes. The exterior definitely takes longer to lose it's tack-like a month or so and is harder to sand. The interior sands easier and dries much faster. I sanded it down to 320 with good results.
I'll agree that this all gets very confusing-quite a few variables. I suspect that there are going to be failures as we get to a good combination of color/clear coat. The clear dope over the latex sounds interesting, as well as many of the 2 part auto clears. This could be a whole other thread!

Stickbuilder

I'm off to Top Gun in the morning. See you guys in the evenings, and I'll post photos.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Stickbuilder

I was talking to RCKen yesterday at Top Gun. I asked him why we were now known as Awaiting Approval. He told me that one of our members was on Moderated Status (permanently). When he posts, the thread becomes Awaiting Approval. When someone responds to his post, the name continues to be changed to this. So when this member makes a post, rather than responding directly, just enter a post and not a response. Hopefully, this will be resolved in due time. Sorry about this issue.

Do not directly reply or quote this post, or any that have this heading, or the heading name will come back.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Stickbuilder

Which kit is it?

Bill, Waco Brother #1

reyn3545

So... fishingchickens... what's your side of the story?

Stickbuilder

Sounds like nothing to say there.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Stickbuilder

Mitch is flying this morning. Heading over to the field to watch him. I've gotten some good photos (well, Janelle has) and I'll be posting them tomorrow evening.

Bill, Waco Brother #1