tkopper

are they the stock blades or the extreme blades? if they are stock blades then yes, the stock blades will tear veryeasilywhen youcrash. don't buy theextremebladesbecausethey are meant for higher power motors.

pgroom_68

Hey mate,

I would beg to differ[sm=wink_smile.gif] - IMO they are great for any smaller Esky co-ax model!
Neyou86, I wouldn't buy Esky blades from anywhere if I were you - I would order one set of Xtreme blades for small co-ax. They last & last & last, and are worth the extra $ by a long shot........ Xtreme's are available in white, yellow, or blue and are sold in PAIRS (uppers & lowers) so IF you do manage to break one, you can replace only one pair.................

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

where can i order them?

pgroom_68

Hey again neyou86,

Since you are in the US, I suggest Jamie at [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Xtreme+blades]BoomTownHobbies.com[/link] - he is always cheap & fast with my parts - so I assume he will be with yours also You will need to order the second item (approx $3) & the fourth item (approx $3) within link - "Xtreme Hard Blade Upper (1 pair)" and "Xtreme Hard Blade Lower (1 pair)" or further down within link there is yellow or blue available if you prefer............

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. You will notice the diff. I assure you! They are much more hardy than the Esky blades[sm=49_49.gif] and being white (or yellow) you can see the rotor "planes" a lot clearer also!

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok well i bought my heli, training set and some stock spare blades. is there any maintenance that should be done regularly? anything that should be done? this is my first heli. i got it for 60 shipped.

tkopper

you really wont need the training gear for the heli, its as easy as heli flying can get, i'm not sure how it will perform with the training gear because of the extraweight, but i know the feeling of flying a heli for the first time and how it may lead you to think that your willprobablycrash, but Don't worry, these are very, very easy to fly. to start off, turn on your transmitter and then the helicopter, set your trims on the radio to the center (exceptthrottle). then you will want to make sure the swash plate is level, if not, adjust thenecessarylinkages from the servo to the swash plate. after the swash is lvl, youshouldbe ready to fly. some adjustments of thebladetracking, gain and proportion may be needed as well, the manual will cover that. for a regular check up, just make sure screws are tight and parts are not cracked or broke. Have Fun!!

pgroom_68

Hey again mate,

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8876563]HERE[/link] is a link to the swashplate leveling info that you may need.
And [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7350619]HERE[/link] is a link to the "prop" and "gain" pots on the side of electronics is you need to adjust those...........

Have fun & don't be afraid to ask more Qs......!

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

is it necessary to balance the blades?

tkopper

Well, for this heli it all depends if you want to. Yesbalancingthem will make anever soslightly change in performancethroughstability, unless the blades areveryunbalanced. to Balance the blades, disassemble the top and bottom blade holders form the shaft, with the blades still attached. thenbalanceit on two of the same size cups or something similar where you can get the two ball joints to rest on. if one side drops, add clear tape to the other side to balance.

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok i already knew how to. saw it on youtube and was wondering if its needed.

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

well i was flying for the first time and i managed to break the tail and the servo arm. no big deal to me. but i cant figure out how to get the servo out. need help thanks

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok well. i figure out my above problem. i noticed i had one hole left on the servo arm so i mounted it in that. the servo is double sided tape. well now i cant get it trimmed right. it spins in circles all the time. ive tried adjusting it. i ran out of adjustment on the transmitter and it still spun. how do i reset it? could blade nicks cause that?

pgroom_68

Hey again Neyou86,

The proportional (pot on the side of 4in1) adjusts which rotor plane is to slow slightly, thus making the helicopter yaw more or less. [On a coaxial this torque difference takes the place of a tail rotor] Just use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to turn the pot in small increments.
When you have maxed out the trim - land, center the trim slide again, & adjust the "prop" pot on the electronics. Unplug the flight battery, re-plug the wires together again so your changes can take affect, and try flying it then.
For the direction of turning - CW or CCW - follow [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=7350619]THIS[/link] link to GTX_slotcar's post Also remember that in order for the changes to take effect you MUST un-plug & re-plug your lipo. This is only needed for proportional adjustments though. Gain adjustments don't need this un-plugging/re-plugging.....................

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Blade nicks may have 'caused it - but it is more likely to be crashes that put it off-balance by bending the flybar or main shaft slightly.....
P.P.S. Second & third pics show the process of blade balancing IF you do want to do it - but the change is usually so minor that I can't be bothered![X(]

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok thanks. just gotta get it trimmed good now. absolutely no wind outside so im having fun.

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok well i was getting comfortable with my heli and i ended up crashing it. i flew it way up and let it down and then hit the throttle. it flew around in a circle for a bit then crashed. it broke the tail and the fly bar flew off. now what i need to buy is a servo arm, a tail, maybe a head kit and a spare landing skid. where should i order these? if anybody has some parts to sell, pm me. thanks

pgroom_68

Hey again neyou86,

[link=http://www.rc711.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=1903]SERVO HORNS[/link] or buy [link=http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2X-EK2-0508-8g-ESKY-Servo-Belt-CP-CP2-Lama-V4-V3-King-2-/140407301205?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item20b0ed6455#ht_2492wt_960]2 x replacement servos[/link] from ebay and receive 2 x free sets of horns together with it in the parcel (sometimes it ends up cheaper)
Normally I would suggest [link=http://www.helitek-rc.com/index.php?page=1&searchStr=Lama+3&act=viewCat&Submit=Go]HERE[/link] at Helitek-rc for all the products - but they appear to be OUT OF STOCK on most of the items you want![] ...so Jamie at [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/category_s/29.htm]BoomTownHobbies.com[/link] is my second suggestion
Anything else that you need can usually be found on ebay.................

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Here is another couple of US on-line helicopter stores for you to view: [link=https://www.ushobbysupply.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=Lama&sort=2a&page=2]USHobbySupply.com[/link] - IMO the best service anywhere!
[link=http://www.helidirect.com/esky-lama-v2v3-c-1_38_235_264.hdx]HeliDirect.com[/link] Esky Lama v3 parts

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

ok now i got a couple more questions. how do i stop my heli from turning sideways and going down when i use the right stick? can i just buy and extended shaft without the head and use my stock head? i plan to order aluminum soon.

pgroom_68

Hey again neyou86,

On a mode 2 transmitter (throttle on the left) the right-hand stick only moves the swashplate - so I don't know what you mean in the bolded words above

As for the extended shaft and head question: If you buy an [link=http://www.rchelicoptershop.com/catalog/lp0002-turbo-shaft-for-lama-dauphin-comanche-p-342.html?osCsid=06570c9r4dvnt3tt00c4js14f3]Turbo shaft with a head already attached[/link] you will see that it has a grub screw near its base (best seen in the pic already installed in helicopter - scroll down within link) to remove and replace a new shaft if you bend that one - and the original plastic head doesn't remove from the shaft - so I don't think it is possible. Sorry.

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

here lets see how i can explain this one. when i want to lean the heli to one side i use the right stick. but sometime if i hold it a bit too hard it will stay on its side and it will kinda go down like water does in a toilet bowl.(going around in a circle.) what should i do to stop this?

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

well i did some reading and i think it might be blade strike causing this. am i correct?

pgroom_68

Hey again neyou86,

....sounds like the dreaded TBE - Toilet-bowl Effect. This is all-to-common and is usually caused by a combination of things.
Firstly, try adjusting the "top link" (the vertical link between flybar balljoints & upper blade-grips) Pop off the lower ball-joint where it joins the grips (for this you can use balljoint pliers, long-nose pliers or even your fingernail!) and rotate the black plastic CCW a full 180ΒΊ. Pop the balljoint back on and carefully retest

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. A brief explanation: The plastic top link is in two parts with a threaded pin between - so a CCW rotation lengthens the top link and increases the distance between the balljoints. This adjusts the angle of attack of the upper blades, and is used so they run true.
P.P.S. The second pic below shows a broken top link (from straining it to much[sm=confused_smile.gif]) but at least it shows the steel pin.......[sm=wink_smile.gif]

pgroom_68

Hey again mate,

This is another possible cause - but usually nicks in the blades or broken blades are the result of blade "clacks". A crash from altitude (when the blades slow or stop moving) is the worst case senario.......[X(]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]

neyou86

My Feedback: (2)

well if i adjust the top link there, will it steady out my hover? i found a better spot to fly... in my barn. i got it trimmed pretty well because there is no wind in there. but i still cant get it to steady out. what will help steady my heli in hover?

aircrash

Yes it is a critical factor for a good hover.

But you must have as well:
a) straight outer and inner shaft. No wobble. If it wobbles then the heli will go round (back and forth with a left to right the same time).
b) good center of gravity. Any modification that has added weight to the tail (or to the front) then it needs so much swashplate trimming so to hover. But this is not the same as when the swashplate is level.
As the weight (force) makes it go back and the swashplate makes it to go forward, so to be balanced. But this is not always as easy as there is no force than the lifting power.
c) not any other vibrations or wobble.

pgroom_68

Hey again neyou86,

It should do - it's worth a try mate You can twist the top link and try hovering again, or you can hold your bird carefully at arms length and view from the side. What you are looking for is one "blade plane" (like a plate - not two blurry blades) Adjust the top link CCW in half turn increments for four full revolutions (COUNTING AS YOU GO) If there is no marked improvement, reset it where it was and twist CW a couple of half turns. I think the two halves of the link will stop up against eachother if you try to shorten the top link any more.
It doesn't cost any $ - just takes time & patience. Remember the top link only affects the upper blades via the grips........[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Peter[sm=shades_smile.gif]
P.S. Please report back with good news Else you will have to take some of Spiros' advice and check to see if the outer shaft is bent.......
P.P.S. Is there a way you can upload a short video of your bird to YouTube (from before take off to "hovering" for 2 seconds) and post a link to it here? It would help heaps with diagnosis........[sm=49_49.gif] and you can always delete it after a couple of days.