gunner3

I'm almost finished with the landing lights on the waco and I got some good ideas from previous posts, but I'm not quite sure what to do with the housing. Should I cover it with some reflective tape or paint it gray or black? Any ideas? Also, what do I make the clear plastic lens out of? Do I need to make a plug and shape the plastic over it using heat, or can I just use a thin piece of clear plastic and bend it around the leading edge of the wing and hold it in place with screws?

Bob: Waco Br #160

aminiet

Gentlemen.

There is an easier way to do the nav lights, take a look at post 3440 pg 138.

Angel

amscat

To Skylarkmk1...

John - question regarding YMF-5 N954JD:
(http://www.nationalwacoclub.com/memb...b%20Howie.html

I was under the impression that serial #'s 0-9 were 1935 'copies' and 10-36 were 'Classics'. N954JD looks like a 1935 copy (non-balanced rudder, and the dates look right), yet from digging around I find that theC/N # is F5-010. Does that mean it was the 10th one built (so serial #9)?or isthe construction numberthe same as the serial #?

Another question - I was looking through your CD and I couldn't find any pics of the YMF cowl "in parts". What I mean is I'd like to know whether the top part of the cowl is hinged somewhere, or whether the whole top (and bottom for that matter) unbolt and come off in one piece.

WacoNut

Bob,
For my 25% Waco I used Mini-Maglite reflectors, the ones that use AA batteries. I made the lens coverout of .025 clear plastic held down with screws. I masked and painted the edges of the plastic.
Later!!
Anthony

fishinchickens

I am not really shure. I have yet to do much testing but will let you know when I find out.

fishinchickens

The number on the transistors is 2N3904. Sorry about the hand writing it was late and I had just gotten home from playing several tennis matches.

skylarkmk1

Andy,

N954JD, S/N F5-010, is the10th new YMF built by Waco Classic Aircraft and received its original Air Worthiness Certificate in February 1988 and is owned by Robert Howie in Illinois.

It was preceded by NC 14081, S/N F5-009 owned by Robin Williams of Michigan and the subject of the CD. NC 14081 was I believe the last YMF built from the original 1935 plans and has the longer landing gear.

You are correct about the Classics being S/N 10 thru 36 (37-40 are being held in reserve). Classics are distinguished from the rest with the Landing Gear. The original Wacos and the first 9 have the longer landing gear. The newer Wacos, starting with s/n 10, have gear that is about 3� shorter than the originals and the tail was also raised (on the new YMFs) giving the aircraft a more level position when parked (and to improve visibility when taxiing). Classics also have the straight rudder with out the air balance.

YMF Supers (S/N F5-041 and up) have the shorter gear, air balanced rudder, have a 6� longer and 4� wider fuselage and a number of other improvements.

Look at IMG 3767 on the CD, the front view. At 3:30 and 8:30 on the inside of the cowl you can see the latches that allow the top and bottom to separate. This is the same point as the reinforcing strip seen in the side view in IMG 4660 and 4661. I think those fasteners in the diamond shaped plates also need to be removed for the cowl to separate. A different view of the latch can also bee seen in the Don Olsen photo 100_0991.

amscat

Thanks John - my confusion arose from the fact that I thought the air balanced rudder started with the 'Classics', whereas you're saying it started on the 'Supers'. Oh well, what's 3" at 1/5 scale!

skylarkmk1

0.6"

amscat

HaHaHa

So tell me - did they increase the angle of the gear or shorten the LG strut ?

skylarkmk1

From what I understand the struts were shortened. You would need to contact Waco Classic to see if the angle at the axel was also changed.

davidgeorge212

thanks.




on a side note
I just noticed a new waco 1/5 scale kit up for sale again in RCU market place

fishinchickens

You can only do this through a electronic switch. The receiver would not put enough pover through the circuit.

fishinchickens

Here is a larger diagram of the flasher circuit.

gunner3

Thanks, Anthony. Is there a particular type of plastic you used and where did you get it.

WacoNut

This was plastic we had where I work, it is actually protective sleeves that you put on a presentation board for holding charts. I believe they were purchased at Office Depot. I had to cut the center out of the sleeve's so we could write on the sheets posted on the board so I brought the cutouts home and put them to use. Most Hobby Shops will have .025/.030 plastic sheets you could use for this.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

I will task this to one of the electrical engineers we have at work and see if he can draw me up a flasher that will work with the voltage form the receiver. I am betting it is just a matter of using different capacitors etc: I will let you know what I find out.
Later!!
Anthony

nine o nine

My Feedback: (1)

One thing gentlemen....nav lites don't flash. The red or white beacon lites located usually on the belly or top of the fin and sometimes the wingtips blink/rotate/flash. Mitch

skylarkmk1

Anthony,

What are you worring about; the weight of a 9v battery, micro servo to activate a micro switch to turn on the board doesn't weight but a couple of ounces and I don't think it will matter much on a 1/3rd size bird. Put a switch in the cockpit and eliminate the servo and it will weight even less. And then there is the point Mitch makes, the red and green tip lights don't flash.

fishinchickens

I have drawn up a curcuit for an eletronic switch that converts the the radio signal toan on/off switch.

RCplanman

My Feedback: (16)

GUYSand he's only 15!!!-I love it. Bill

WacoNut

Mitch makes a good point
I want my lights to operate off of an empty channel. I don't want to have to worry about turning them on and off after a flight I will be able to turn them on and off from the radio. With 9 channels available it would be nice. You can also just power the lights thru the radio to come on whenever the receiver is turned on.

fishinchickens

16 now.

fishinchickens

Here is a switch that is operated by an extra channel. I drew this up and tested it this afternoon. It works well.

georgewaldrop

My Feedback: (28)

Neil,

I'm impressed! I have always been interested in the electronic side of some of our scale endeavors, and how to [more or less] scratch build some of these features...just never took the time to learn or experiment much beyond electronic kits available from Heathkit and others back in the 60's. I have a question, you may have already answered, but I didn't see it...are all these components available at somewhere like Radio Shack? Could the flasher be modified to handle more than one LED on the same "flash" (for instance if I wanted to have white wingtip "strobes" flash together, and a Red "beacon" on top of the rudder or underside of the plane that could flash out of sequence with the strobes)? Again, you may have already answered this or it may be obvious to more accomplished electronics guys, but "I know NUTHINK" as a great [and rotund] Sergeant used to quip!

Keep it up...you are making a great start into the better side of modeling (scratch) IMO.