joey951

My Feedback: (1)

I brought a >HOTBODIES POWER FACTORY .26 ENGINE WITHOUT PULLSTART off E-bay that was brand new. I finally got it into my truck for break in and had nothing but problems with it. The engine began to Rev really high after it was running for a while and wanted to take off before it got really hot and just shut off. I had everything dialed in on the radio and adjustments still set to factory on the engine. I took the next step someone told me to do, Seal the engine. Well did just that so after having a hard time getting it started it did the samething as before. I noticed the carb. was still turning even though I tightened it as much as I could. I hear everyone HPI this HPI that so I figured this was a good engine to use. There is a metal sleve around the bottom of the composite (Plastic) carb. body that will not gip onto the carb thats why i was getting rotation even though it was tighten down. I'm assuming this is why im getting the high revs and over heating. Does anyone have any idea if this can be fixed or just get another carb. body?


Here is a small video showing the problem areas - [link=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knAulss1VeQ]#hb28514 - SLIDE CARBURETTOR MAIN BODY [/link]

bigdogkanicsar

first, i want to be sure exactly whether you are talking bout hot bodies or HPI ,being you mentioned both.
maybe there is a carb from HPI that will fit the hot bodies engine.
as for fixing what you have , there is a hole in the metal sleeve at the base of the carb, maybe try a small amount of epoxy in the hole and let cure and sand to contour of sleeve. it might hold it from turning.
also ,how many o-rings did you find on the base of the carb, there should be one in the groove at the bottom of the metal sleeve and one at the top of metal sleeve where there is no groove.
as for the end of the carb and fuel inlet turning, to my knowledge it's not supossed to. i've never had one do that. i guess if you wanted to seal it up, you could use some clear silicon RTV so when it dries it won't look like total crap. i would wash well with soap and water to remove any oils from fuel that might prevent the rtv from stickin'.

joey951

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks alot for the info it will be very useful to me. As for mentioning HPI and Hotbodies I figure they were the same but Hotbodies is a company of HPI im assuming. It is a Hotbodies engine out of the lighting GT. I think I know what happened after assesing the situaton. When I sealed the engine and I tightened the Carb. Setting pin (Pictured) I tightened it to tight. So it pulled the pin causing the metal sleve to bend and come loose. I put some red loctite on the sleve but sense heat loosens red loctite I think im going to try the epoxy instead.

Thanks!

bigdogkanicsar

yeah as far as i know hot bodies is its own company but i am not certain.
also hotbodies to my knowledge only has the .26 big block so finding parts shouldn't be too bad.

i just went surfin' and hot bodies is by HPI, i had no idea.
i'd be willin' to bet that the s25 carb would fit on your engine.

joey951

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks, I seen the s25 and thought it may fit. I may just switch over to that to get rid of the air leaks all together.

On another note, I was looking at your profile and seen one of your pics of the custom Air horn. What did you make it from, out of? How is it working for you? Like the look of it.

bigdogkanicsar

well i took an aluminum tube and put it in my drill press, turned it on . i used wd40 for cooling and a pair of needle nose pliers and slowly pushed them in the tube while it was turning. then polished the crap out of it.

the one draw back is i couldn't figure out a filter for it. so, i 86'd it.

Argess

I don't like plastic carbs for that reason....the metal band around the lower neck. It usually distorts from over-tightening I(or an accident) and once that happens, it won't really ever tighten. On my NitroStar 25, the metal band actually sheared off the two little plastic nubs that keep the band form rotating. I drilled very small holes in the carb and installed very small screws. The screw heads were the same diameter as the holes in the band. Once instlalled, I used my Dremel to smooth the screw heads down to be flush with the band. I also used RTV around the top o-ring on the carb to help prevent air-leaks. Overall, if matching up an alternate all-metal carb would be easier, I'd switch in a second.

bigdogkanicsar

i agree with all aluminum switch, truely more reliable.