wparsons

Now that I have the 1/8" tube in place, its really not that sloppy.  With a bit of grease its perfect!

graminizer

Here's a vid of my boat finally.....still need to see what's wrong with my water cooling system......it really doesn't pump that much water! Enjoy.

http://vimeo.com/13234753

wrangellboy

For anyone who's broken an impeller. I bought an Octura 531 and put it on the original shaft using a piece of k&s 1/8" brass as a spacer. I pressed the tubing into the prob with a vice, then pressed the prop/spacer onto the shaft (I cut the original broken impeller off with a dremel. It all fits tight and works fine with no glue. I put the shaft in my dremel and turned the prop down against a piece of sandpaper until it would fit in the pump. We'll see how long it lasts. I ran it tonight and I'd say it runs every bit as good as it ever did with the stock impeller. The prop cost me $1.99 at the LHS.

Monkeytail

Does any one knowwhereyou can get one inEurope or evenbetterTheNetherlands.
Isearchedthe whole internet but I can only find them in USA or Australia.
I hope someone can help me.

MikeHRC

I got one from here http://www.actionmodelcentre.co.uk/p...?prod=NQD-2074 in the UK and one from here one ebay (in the USA) http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Radio-Contro...item3a5c87fa1b

nickrummy

Hey guys,

Was just curious. What are you doing to remove the motor when you swap out to a brushless one? Are you pulling the complete jet drive out to get to the motor mount screws or are you drilling access holes in the transom to get to them? Anyone try using a short screw driver to get them out then maybe just replace them with socket head cap bolts? I'm "tearing into" (ha-ha get it?) my boat and figured I'd check to see what others are doing before giving myself any extra work.

sundogz

I just drilled some holes in the transom for a screwdriver (or long allen wrench) then put a piece of hatch tape (hockey tape) over the holes. Or you can run the water cooling through the holes as well.

nickrummy

That's not a bad idea bout the water cooling.

richdb77

Itook my whole jet drive out first.

But then i was planing a respray and other mods too which taking the drive out made easier.

The screws are a bit of a pain even with a small screwdriver.

Its back in now with some silicon sealant. Easy really. Cleaning up the hot melt looking glue in the hull was the worst bit.

DRAGONFIRE81M

the first time i removed and replaced with allen heads . on the send hull i removed the mounting braket from the drive and made my own out of alum . witch moved it up about 1"


i forgot i reused the oem screws then i removed the drive but reused the motor and sealed with epoxy . i had to drill two small holes in the transom to get them out and used the holes for cooling lines

MikeHRC

I take the whole thing out as it gives better access to sort out servo mounting etc.

ChuckATruck

hey nick i just pulled the whole jet drive it's alot easier to do everything else with an empty hull

wparsons

I pulled the drive as well, mostly so it didn't get painted with the hull, but also so I could clean up the hot glue and seal it better.

KamikazeParanoia

If anyone in the UK would like a Tear Into I have a surplus yellow/orange one and a white one, brand new and unopened, bought 2 spares should I need them but the conversion on the original went flawlessly so only need 1 spare if anyone would like the other

Feel free to PM me

KamikazeParanoia

Also, would anyone have a picture of where and how they applied their grease to the propshaft please?


Thanks

wparsons

Easiest way to grease it would be to disconnect the coupler, and remove the exhaust from the rear of the hull, then just slide the impeller and shaft out, put some grease on and reassemble.

gabe3366

hey does any one no where to get a nqd jet sprint from a canadian site cause i live in canada and i dont wana pay expensiev shipping and no ebay.ca

wparsons

^^ I think you're SOL on that one.  The best deal I could find to Canada was from raidentech, which cost me ~$55cdn shipped.

nickrummy

Well here's my maiden voyage with my modded NQD. I'm not to impressed with the top speed but I think I have a few things working against me. I can not for the life of me get my HK 40A ESC to calibrate to my radio correctly. It will never find the correct neutral point so I had to turn the throttle trim all the way up, calibrate and then turn it all the way down and I can actually get a neutral. Who knows if it's even getting %100 throttle. Also, my lipo pack was not peaked since I've been trying to calibrate this thing since last night and never charged the pack back up after all the times of trying to calibrate and the motor running. Here's my setup.

turnigy 2030 3,500kv motor
HK 40A ESC
Turnigy 3S 2200 lipo
3PK with FASST system

What do you guys think who are running a similar setup?

Modded NQD Test Run

Monkeytail

I don't run a similar setup but I think itshouldgomuchfaster.
I hope it is just the calibration of the ESC.
Do you use a ESC and a pistol remote?
This was a problem fore me before when i used a aircraft ESC.

wparsons

What ESC is it?  If you're running a sprung throttle, you'll have to use the mid point as the low point in the calibration, not full reverse/brake.

The ESC I have, I believe you calibrate by holding it at full throttle when you power it on, then it beeps once, release to neutral (or pull to full low on a plane TX) and wait for another beep.

It definitely doesn't sound like its revving anywhere near full rpm, so its either the calibration or some binding in the driveline.  How is the motor temp?  If it's really hot its likely binding somewhere.

nickrummy

I could hold my finger on the motor so i would imagine it is fine?

That is how the calibration is supposed to be done but it never works. If i release from throttle to nuetral it will just sit there and do nothing. It says it is supposed to beep twice to confirm endpoints but i am only getting chimes. Not beeps. I have to apply the brake/reverse in order for the esc to take a calibration then i have to fix that miscalibration with throttle trim.

sundogz

Rick, you might have too small a motor. I'm surprised it isn't heating up more than it is. IMO, a 2040 is minimal propulsion for the Tear Into, and a 24 to 28mm dia. motor will produce good results.

wparsons

^^ Oh wow, I missed that.

I don't think it is the calibration as much, because using trim to pull the throttle back would still give you full throttle.

It might be the motor doesn't have the torque, but I would think it would come in really hot if that was the case.

wparsons

Here's some progress on mine: