nitrostaff1

I already pmed you with solution.


John
Nitro Planes

rc2007

BAD BAD BAD QUALITY CONTROL. MAKE EM AS FAST AND AS CHEAP AS YOU CAN= BAD PLANES

Arceenut

Customer support seems rather hit or miss. I see some problems dealt with in a timely and satisfactory manner and yet there are others that seems to get no response unless the customer becomes irate. I made a complaint om the Nitro Planes "Support", both the "damage" forum and the "missing" several weeks ago but got no reply whatsoever. I guess they "support" if and when they feel like it.

opjose

I don't think so!!!

How many of their planes do you ACTUALLY have?

outdoorhunting

Hey, Opjose. Do you really think that most of these complainers are for real? Don't get me wrong, I'm sure some of them have problems. It just seems like a lot seem to really flower up the problem. If you know what I mean. Some people just like to start something & then sit back & watch. From what I've seen, John seems to do pretty good as far as taking care of customers. I've got a couple of Nitro Planes I bought from guys in the club & have never had anything major go wrong unless it was due to "dumb thumbs". I guess it sounds better to say " it's the plane's fault" instead of" boy, did I screw up.

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

outdoorhunting,

Did you even read this thread before chiming in with your 2 cents? The problems brought up had nothing to do with "dumb thumbs", and "boy, did I screw up". It had to do with advertising one airplane, and then shipping another. Kit quality was also brought into question by those that decided to keep the airplane. As several of us had missing parts, loose parts from lack of glue, and parts that couldn't even be assembled.

It took awhile for some of us, but from what I can see, John has taken care of all of us with complaints to our satisfaction. I also agree that NitroModels does put out some decent models for the price, and wouldn't mind ordering again in the future (assuming I get what is being advertised).

outdoorhunting

I wasn't talking about your particular deal !!! I was refering NOT to you, but to Opjose, & the fact that SOME of the guys on this thread might, kind of flower up their problem to get more out of NP. If you read my thread, you would've noticed that I DID mention that some have legitimate problems. If I hit a sore spot, Please accept my apoligy ! I was merely stating MY opinion. I have dealt with many customer complaints myself over the years & have found out that when they start getting personal, it's because they usually DON'T have a legitimate complaint !!!

opjose

There are those who have problems. I always feel bad for these people, and you know how it goes, any manufacturer produces lemons at times.
The forums are great for weeding out problem spots on planes... e.g. the original Polecat's weak elevator which BTW has now been fixed thanks to feedback here.

Then there are a few who have had a single problem, and found that because it was not quickly taken care of, they've soured on purchasing more.
These people may post a bad experience here, then they disappear, because they are effectively "done" with the vendor.

Were I mistreated, I'd be in the same boat.

Then there are those with a bit more patience dealing with vendors and willing to give it several goes, who tend to have their problems resolved. In this NP is certainly not as fast as some of the big boys, but John ( at least ) certainly tries.

Then there are those who somehow feel that they have to engage in a vendetta. You can easily tell who these people are because they love to jump on other threads and restate how bad one vendor is, or how their planes are crap, when they've purchased say only ONE item (and usually a cheaper one).

I've received crappy stuff from Horizon, Tower, and all of the big boys, and I've also received great items from all of them too.... but I've never have felt the need to go screaming about, say the poor landing gear mounts on the H9 PTS P-51D. Rather we know enough to expect to fix such things.

If you check these threads, the number of "complainers" is actually quite low, especially since NP seems to be directing everyone here via their web page.

I'd imagine that they are moving at least 40-80 ARF's a day out of their site, to keep their people employed.... and that at a bare minimum. Remember they have at least 7 ( probably underpaid ) employees there.

Yet the number of people with unresolved problems is miniscule compared to the volume.

Finally it's always the same handful ( actually ONE hand full ) of people that are the most voiciferous, often you find ( such as with the poster "YoungGun" ) that these complainers have never purchased ANYTHING, and are operating off hearsay....

A couple of those "digits" of that one hand, also have purchased the cheapest things sold, those China specials ( which you often also see on e-bay ) and they expect a Composite-Arf quality plane ready to fly, for their $22.00. These people need to get real.

But I believe that you are correct. I've seen a person here rant, raved, and threaten NP to get his equipment paid for, when it was pretty obvious that he did not know what he was doing at all....

Things like this quickly devolve into the personal attacks.... especially when someone points this out to the person making the claim.

A person who has truely found a problem ( such as with the Polecat ) tends to be more analytical about it. When they are, the problems seem to be taken care off.

3D Romeo:

This stuff was not directed at you.

If anything you fall into the analytical, "real problem" camp. As far as I can see you also dealt with it very well yourself.

kaitlin97

My Feedback: (1)

I need some information at the YAK 54 50 cc. I cannot get in touch with the nitro people. They never seem to have anyone at the store that knows anything about the machine.
Can you direct me to a site where I can get build information. I too received an airplane that had a lot to be desired, but I can make it work if I can get the build manual. The one that came with the airplane is a picture book only. I need to know what length standoff for a DA50 so prop clears cowl. Size of spinner. I have the big opening in the bottom of the plane for a muffler or something. Not sure what I can put in the hole to fill it. My mufflers on the DA50 go straight down behind the engine.

Can you help me?

Jacksoncole

[email protected]

kaitlin97

My Feedback: (1)

I cannot get a response from anyone at nitro. Can anyone out there give me a location where I can get a build manual for a YAK 54 50cc.
I need length standoff
size of spinner
What goes in the hole at the bottom of the plane. Not advertised.
Just need a build manual?

Help!

3D Romeo

My Feedback: (111)

As far as I know there isn't any manual available for the newest version Yak. So you are on your own there.

Most Yaks of this size use 4" spinners

The hole in the bottom is for a tuned pipe, or can style muffler. You won't need it if you are using a pitts, or stock muffler with your DA-50. My Extreme Flight comes with this opening covered. So if you don't plan on using it, it doesn't show. But then again, I paid twice the price of one of these Yaks for mine.

I hope that helps you out some. Sorry I can't help you out more, but I returned my Yak, and I'm not following this thread much anymore.

Mark

opjose

It sounds like this is a bit new to you....

The Yak comes with what you received. There is no other manual for it.

You should see the "sheet" my older version came with... it's a big sheet, showing the plane broken apart...

The only info it provides that is of use is the C.G... that's it... typical for many larger asian ARFs as it is assumed you know what you are doing by the time you get to this size...



Re: Standoffs

Temporarily mount the engine & muffler using standoffs you may have around, so that you get ample clearance for the carb, etc.

Put the prop on it and check that the C.G. is about where recommended. ( you'll want it a bit forward of the recommended anyway ).

With everything else in place see how far off the C.G. is. If the plane requires seemingly a LOT of nose weight, move the engine forward by increasing the standoff length.

It is NOT unusual to have to go beyond 3" for the standoffs, but if you do have to go that far, it is better to build a "U" shaped block that goes on the mounting box between SHORTER standoffs and the box. That way there is less of a lateral torsional force applied to the standoffs.

Once you have things "good enough" ( it does NOT have to be exact at this point ), remove the muffler and if possible install the cowl to measure the distance required and the centering, then mark where you'll be placing the cowl mounting holes.

If because of clearance issues you cannot put the cowl over the engine, mark the centerpoint of the driveshaft, where the prop driver ends. Make the marks on the mounting box. You'll be sighting down the cowl to the "X" you make to line things up...

This will be where the cowl will need to align once mounted.

Also measure the distance from both the firewall to the prop driver, ( and add about 1/4" or so ) and again from the engine box to the prop driver, so you know where to place the cowl...

You may also want to use the cardboard/paper trick to delimit where you'll need to make the first cuts in the cowl to position it with the engine in place.

Remove the engine, and put the cowl back aligning it to the marks you made and at the distance you've measured. Also mark where the cuts will be by transferring them from the cardboard/paper...

Remember it does NOT have to be exact yet. Do not put the cowl mounting holes in at this time.

Start cutting the cutouts in the cowl, but do not make them to their final size. You can always remove more material later... adding material back is obviously VERY difficult....


Put the engine back on at the proper distance, and check to see if any additional material needs to be remove from the cutouts... don't worry about the muffler cutouts yet.


Once you can get the cowl over the engine, put the cowl loosely in place, put the spinner basplate on and prop, prop nut etc.

Center the cowl under the spinner baseplate ( leaving enough clearance ) and then TAPE the cowl to the fuselage in this position.

NOW drill the mounting hole locations, right through the cowl to the wood below.

You can take it from there.


Re: Spinner

Spinner selection is completely up to you. (Hint: True Turn does a NICE job custom cutting spinners for your engine and prop for you ).

Check out pictures of other RC Yaks to see what the relative proportion is of spinner versus cowl front.

You'll not that space is left on the Yak for airflow around the spinner. Things don't have to be exact though you want it to look OK.

I always play this by ear and choose a spinner that seems to fit appropriately...

When in doubt, make a cardboard circle to see how things will look, and position it in front of the cowl...

Once you have a size that looks OK to you, measure the circle and find a spinner that is close.



Re: Hole

I don't know if you are referring to the canister exit hole or the engine cooling exhause vent hole.

kaitlin97

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the input, but the reason for the questions come from a friend who has been building from scratch for over 30 years. He flys almost every day and owns both a 35% 260 extra and a 35% YAK. We are aware that we can do the work with a lot of misteps, but we wanted to do it right without the hassle of trial and error.

I do appreciate the help and my last machine I purchased from TBM had a great manual so there was not a lot of mistakes made in the building process.

When I purchased this machine, it is sold as an ARF and it is not at the caliber of TBM or Aeroworks.

That is the reason for the questions.

Mike

PAPE

Has any one bought any more nitroplanes 50cc yaks, I was hopping mabye the new shippment was better, I was really intrested in one of theses planes. It would be great if nitroplanes put up some picks inside the fuse of the v2, can they all really be this bad as gallileos pics?

voyager_663rd

Oldish thread but I couldn't pass up the price. I just got this (it should be the new version as the dealer just got it indoes not normally stock them) and weighed it straight out of the box:

This is their pic (not mine):


in grams
Rudder 125
Elev 262
Wing L 715
Wing R 775
Cowl 360
Canopy 254
Wheels, spats,
HW & Tank 591
Wing/Stab Tubes 324
2 Piece Gear 356
Fuse 1692

5454 gms
12 lb

So they lost about 1/2 lb. compared to yours. There is NO tunnel in this one and from a quick look see, none of the issues you described (no glue, etc) are present. I would hazard a guess they went back to version 1 of this plane. They use those purple posts instead of wire horns for control surfaces and include h.d. arms for rudder. Also, the inside-the-fuse wing tube is the standard (hard) phenolic? tube that is supposed to be there, not your "paper with Elmers" tube.

Adding in a da50 + muff adds about 3.8lb (what's the ign weigh?) so 15.8 lb. Fuel at 1lb and batts at 1/2 lb and servos at 1/2 lb gives us AUW of about 17.8 lb. Their web sites shows AUW at 17.6 lb (they include fuel?? who knows).

I've got a Kangke 27% extra all up weight at 17 lb (no fuel) which flies like a dream.

I expect this to be in the same category.