allensull

My Feedback: (19)

Iwould like to more about this myself - GPS where you can buy the units and the company that provides the service.

allensull

My Feedback: (19)

Just found this one -

Edit: This link was deleted because someone reported that
it contained a virus. Better safe than sorry.

Flyboy Dave-Forum Moderator

DaveJohansen

My Feedback: (8)

I was going to say most cell companies might be able to hook you up with something. We had a company trying to talk us into truck gps monitoring with little cell phones mounted in the vehicles. Had a monthly cost just like that brick house security. However Brick house is about half the monthly cost.

AlphaOrion

Here in Guatemala I have a friend who developed a service based on our excellent 3g phone networks. All you do is switch the SIM card to your desired phone network. He was showing me the workings the other day and basically the device gets installed in under 2 hours, has enough self-reliance for 24 hours, and transmits location via sms messaging. A software server picks it up, and the web based application shows locations, and adds an additional functionality: You can set geo-boundaries with rules for each vehicle, and the system will alert you via e-mail if a vehicle approached a certain area, or left a certain area. He also offers ignition panic button, ignition switch cut-off, speed limitation (beeps when exceeding a certain speed), and a feature I personally found a bit excessive, but nonetheless interesting: live voice recording. I liked the self-reliance in case a thief manages to cut off power from the battery and say, loads it onto a low-boy or similar.


With the size of these, I wouldn´t be surprised to see in some months now, a GPS tracker on board for models in case they get lost A sort of Mini ELT for model airplanes that activates with a parameter such as the receiver battery going dead. (So it does not interfere with the RC signals)

csatellite, it is funny how quickly we all skimmed through your intended purpose, which was not to start out on the merit of things being stolen or not.!

I will leave mine plain white, I had the aluminum sidings installed with the pre-coated paint scheme, the reason being that I fly in locations near a saline environment, so the most corrosion I can prevent, the better. At this point, some of the bolts holding the door swings together, have already slightly corroded because of galvanic action.

I forgot to include the other images of the (almost) complete project.
Smoke detector - a small insurance policy (pending the addition of the fire extinguisher)
Wing and fuse securing devices using velcro.
The front end (I am still debating adding a work bench in front, thinking about a 4 legged sturdy wood bench, screwed in place from the bottom of the trailer floor.)
How useful are these workbenches in trailers? do you use them a lot?
Plastic trinket boxes with my "string locking mechanism" and a case logic pocket organizer system.
Side door with ladder and extension cord. (Still need to get a 110V power strip installed somewhere, so that when parked, I can charge all the 110V electrical devices.
Close up of the velcro and string based plane securing system.

Pending:
Workbench
Extinguisher
Electric fuel pumps (gas and glow)
Power strip for 110V devices

And last but not least: AIRPLANES!

Whoever posted previously that a trailer is a hobby in itself was quite right.

testfly

As you can see I have added a few more to the flight line.

The 310 is the largest model I store with the wing in place making it ready for the flight line when it is pulled from the trailer.

Rafael23cc

My Feedback: (6)

testfly:

I'm curious, what is the purpose ot the tilting aircraft cradle? Why make it capable of tilting the aircraft all the way to the ground?

Rafael

testfly

Hi Rafael,

The TF 310 is a great looking airplane and mine is electric. (I fly all electric)
The stand is used for two things.

1) For transport in the trailer so I can leave the wing on the model.
2) So I can get to the bottom side of the model to install the flight batteries. (1 6 cell 5000 mah for each wing)


More info on the model and a video of the stand in action can be found at http://www.seabreezeparachutes.com/c-310/view.html

johneckert

My Feedback: (15)

I'm currently in progress of building out the inside of a 6x12 trailer for my RC planes and equipment. I've made the wing racks and I'm in the process of painting the inside. I'm using the interlocking soft rubber 2x2 squares for the flooring. This thread has presented so many good ideas... so thanks to all the contributors.

I do have a question... do you use the trailer for semi-permanent storage of you planes... i.e., at least during the flying season? If so, have you noticed any problems storing in this way (i.e., heat, covering wrinkles, etc.)

Thanks,
John

testfly

My planes live in the trailer year round. Insulating the roof is a must. I used R5 foil backed and foiled taped all seams and this dropped the temp inside by 19 drgrees.

AlphaOrion

You get this at Home depot?

johneckert

My Feedback: (15)

I hadn't even though of insulating the roof. Thank you for the advice. I'll check my local Home Depot and Lowes for the R5 foil-backed insulation.

jbarnes

I'm in the process of insulating my trailer right now. If you get the 1" thick stryofoam board from HD/Lowes it fits perfect. I simply cut mine 1/2" wider than the space being filled and used the foam safe glue on the back. Cutting it 1/2" wider allows you force the foam between the roof bows causing it to stay in place while the glue dries. I insulated my walls and ceiling with the same material. Round vents in the floor with thermostatically controlled vent fan that comes on when it gets to 100 and I never have a issue with heat.

AlphaOrion

Good thing I am in the USA right now, will hit Home Depot later today and check it out!

Mastertech

My Feedback: (31)

I did the silver backed foam board in the roof of mine and it dropped the inside temps to the point I leave everything it it year round now. No vents of any kind either. We see many 100+ days every year. I park it next to my shop and run a cord to it for lighting. I'm in the process of buying a newer trailer with a ramp door (My knees kill me getting in/out of the one I have now). I will again use the same thing in the ceiling in the new one.

This time I'll go with LED lights and thicker wall material. Having learned on this trailer the next one should be much better. I'm working on the plans for storage racks and such made from aluminum instead of wood. I prefer to be able to walk from one end to the other inside so E track is out of the question.

I also intend to use the locking foam mats for flooring rather than carpet or tiles.

I still prefer Velcro for tying down over anything else I've seen or tried. A single screw into the current wood racks with a 12"x2" piece of Velcro holds anything I've hauled before, even a 35%. Wrap it around the gear leg and away we go.

I'm still wrestling with making charging stations and such in the trailer. My flying field has power so I'm not all that keen about adding 12v system with inverters and such. I think it's overkill at this point. The odd times I do go to a field without power I can drag my generator with me, or just charge off the truck.

I do plan on adding a stereo and PC system to it, gotta have music and a way to surf the web!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

OK how bout this? I have a lot (according to the wife) of 60 scale and larger planes. As of yet I haven't made the investment in a trailer. (Haven't figured out a good excuse yet)
So anyhow when I go to a meet, I usually rent a truck or trailer. Most of my planes are not wing removable which means they take up a lot of room, and in turn means renting a really large truck or trailer. Last time was a 27' box truck. Ok so maybe I do have a lot of planes.

Anyhow in pondering the problem for a meet I have to go to I came up with this. A removable rack. Not a vertical version, a horizontal one.

I'm going to take a sheet of 2" thick pink insulation foam and split it in half length wise . Space the two parts just far enough apart that the cowls/landing gear will fit through from the top. Glue the bottoms to a small sheet of plywood. Then cut slots in the foam, matched to each birds wing(s) so they can be cradled. The slots would be cut only deep enough so that the spinners would not touch the plywood on the bottom, but cradle the whole chord of the wing, and slightly undersized to squeeze the wings for a snug fit.

This way the planes would ride in a vertical position and take up less room in the truck/trailer then having each one tied down on the floor.

And since it's a rental, I doubt there would be any problem with running a few screws through the ply and into the floor to secure the whole thing. When I'm done just unzip the screws and slide the whole thing out.

Thoughts?

AlphaOrion

If you have power at your field, don't even bother with the 12V system, run a cable from your car's 12V and you'll be fine. I did it because I have no ready access to power at the field, and because I wanted to make it a "luxury" thing. It has been a hands-on learning project regarding electrical setups.

Speaking of LEDs, they are quite the bargain when it comes to consumption. Mine barely draw .4 amps (2 8 LED, 2 16 LED, 4 TOTAL) per hour!
I just came from Bering's in Houston and they sell these 12V xenon kitchen lights, powered by an AC converter. I was seriously tempted to buy them, but they consume 5 Amps (all three) and I don't plan to be working on the trailer that much.

Being in this 100F summer heat, I did realize the insulation and fan are important items, specially if I willl store planes inside the thing for long periods. The fan is only to keep things cool while loading and unloading. I got this one and will cut the wires to make it compatible with the electrical system installed.
http://www.o2-cool.com/battery_overview.php

Will check up on the R5 insulation at Home Depot tomorrow, I have to figure out how to get it home to Guatemala: Either ship it, or travel with it pre-cut.

TomCrump

I find Mastertech's comments interesting. I live in northern Michigan. Even with our "cooler" temps, my trailer has venting. It's useful in keeping the unit's internal temps in check, as is the insulation in the ceiling.

AlphaOrion

I finally came back to Guate, but chickened out on getting the insulation. Too complicated to travel with it.  I will check a local air-conditioning company, which had similar boards of lower R value and set these up.

dschroeder

My Feedback: (40)

here's a few of my trailer project. its a 5x10 H&H Trailer. bottom shelf is 5ft wide, 69" in length on the part closest to the door and 84" on the other side. top shelf is 5ft wide and 66" front to back.

please excuse the mess, its still a work in progress

got slightly carried away with the wiring, it has 12V and 110V outlets, all lights are 12V. 1300w Inverter. 12V has 2 power sources, a 12V power supply and a deep cycle battery

bolar

My Feedback: (5)

I like your electrical panel, very professional looking. Are you going to paint at all?

dschroeder

My Feedback: (40)

haven't decided if i'm going to paint it, may just do carpet on the shelves. My dad is an electrician, so i guess some of working part time with him rubbed off on my trailer project lol

I Buy Houses

[img]file:///Users/damondarnall/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2010/Jul%2030,%202010/IMG_1098.JPG[/img]Here is my 7X12 V nose

I Buy Houses

Here is the the before and after

iwannaknow

i'm just rigging a trailer for my planes now, a smallish 4x8 enclosed and love it. i want to be able to plug it into 120vac without having to open the doors (there will be chargers inside already plugged into power bars). I've seen male receptacles which are weatherproof but cannot find anyone who sells them.

i am also looking at changing the suspension from leafs to torsion. the trailer is rated at 2000lbs but if it ever got over 800lbs i would be very surprised. as it stands it bounces over every bump in the road as i watch in horror through the rearview mirror. do i need to get torsion axles that can handle the 2000 its rated for or am i ok to put underrated torflex axles on it to try for a softer ride. if i ever got rid of it i could put the original leafs back into it.

RiverLarry

just take 1 leafe out of boath springs !!!! work for me on a 6x12