advanced builder

Yes the boat fuel tank is way different than a airplane tank setup . 3 tubes coming out ,one for your pipe pressure( lower right side of tank .one for fuel (up top on the pressure),one for another tank . omit one tube, solder it up
one of the guys has a boat tank pic setup , were are you Jetpack
sorry other way around on the lines

amax

Most tanks have an Optional 3rd hole, the Sullivan tanks generally only have 2 of them pre drilled through the rubber stopper, You only need 2, Pressure In and Fuel Out.

Get a "Fuel Pump" Kit they generally have the necessary fittings to hook it to a Fuel Supply(Gallon Jug) , it will have a Line In and a line Out. Put a piece of 1\8 brass, Alum, or Plastic tubing, In the "Line Out" of the pump. Unhook the fuel line from the Fuel Filter in the boat(or carb if no filter is installed) Hook the line from the pump to the line you just unhooked from the carb by inserting the other end of the tube from the pump into it. Turn On or Crank the pump, Make Sure the fuel is going From the Supply to the Fuel Tank, pumps will run Both Ways for Filling and Draining fuel tanks.
ONLY Fill Tank about 3\4 full, Never Try to Fill the Tank completely full, it will pump fuel into your exhaust.
NEVER Pump fuel From the Boat to the Supply, if the fuel tank has ANY Moisture in it,, It's Contaminated, and will ruin a jug of fuel.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

Well got back to the building progress. Thought I took a step forward but realized I made a big mistake. I glued the right sponson together but when I went to tape the tape off after it dried I realized something. I put it together backwards as if it was the left one!! Crap! So I emailed zippkits about getting the right foam side pieces brass and dowels. I tried to take it apart but wasn't very successful without breaking stuff. I don't wanna have to spend $30 on a new set of sponsons when I only need a few parts out of that kit.

amax

Get the extra kit you will want Spares.

advanced builder

If you go out and buy a sheet of 3/32 ply that's a good chunk of money ,you can download the prints & go to Staples and print out a set of instructions $8.00
Why not give Joe a email and tell him your situation .Well we hope them engine blocks are the right way. Ya we heard that one a few months ago
I almost did it my self LOL 2 right sponsons Go back and CK this feed about pulling them tubes out. Just like pullin a tooth grab twist pull

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

Props to Joe at zippkits, he is sending me the parts of the right sponson that I messed up. Wanted to give a shout out for great customer service, he didn't have to be that generous!

joseywales

yes they have great customer service...

advanced builder

JW is right , Joe stands behind all his products. I had a bag of parts missing, they showed up the day before Christmas. One day ,but I live just down the thruway 100 miles . I did get to drop off a proposal to the owner of the ( Official Zippkit test site) about bouies . He wasn't there, he will call me. 1/3 mile oval IMPBA setup 330' & 35 ' radius I need them, as I am a newbi when it comes to bouies . YOU SEEN IT HERE FIRST

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

replacement parts are in! ill get to building again.. the correct way this time lol

amax

Well after the rush I got from runnin Miss A Yesterday with the Mod Crank, I finally picked it back up and got ta fixin her. I didn't get pics before I started but I did take some as I went. The holes were all less than 1\4" each but they were holes.

1st I took the Dremal and grooved the holes out just a little to give a little better area for the epoxy to grab.

CLOSE UP


It's hard to see the bad spots here but the dowels pulled loose from the outer skin


So I grooved them also


Hit all the grooved spots with 80 grit and knocked the edges off the grooves.

Then featherd em out with 180 grit


I masked off the areas I was fixing and went to it


This is the new crank mod I did with the Upgraded cranks I got from Mike (ToyotaTruckin)
I opened the front end up to just over 8mm


Then made a Ramp in the Intake area to Push More fuel through the crank



and did a little work on the face of the crank


47.6mph is my new speed to beat in Miss A. and still running a Pull Start. I think I'm gonna remove the pull start and go Non Pull Start Next.

This set up is gonna be Off The Hook in this Rigger.[8D]

advanced builder

Any date for testing, Adam lookin good on that shaft ,elbow grease. We will test run Sunday , got my cam ready . I'll send a pic of my mods on my .12 looks very close. but not like yours, no boring out. I like the buffing out.

joseywales

AMAX , did you ever get that rigger painted yet?

amax

No,, I just picked it back up and did the repairs Saturday.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

got a little work done today on the sponsons

siberianhusky

Hmm I used pink foam in the sponsons! Which is faster? It was all they had in the dumpster behind Home Depot! Half my building supplies seem to come from dumpsters behind building supply places! Pick up amazing amounts of steel and aluminum from the free scrap metal drop off bins. I make a deposit and don't feel bad about taking something I can use!
Amax is that one of the GO engines in the pictures? I read someplace you were using them. I have looked at them a couple of times and wondered about them, how do they perform stock?

amax

Yes it's a Go Engine and yea I've been running them for some time now. The stock .18 engine has a couple things that are holding it back from being a Screamer, the Head and the Carb, which is all I change for My Stage 1 Mod. The rest of the go engine is basically designed like the TZ .18 except the bearings are better in the Go Engine.

amax

Here's My Latest Test Vid of the Go Engine .18 in Miss Attitude, Granted Shes not a Rigger but this is the Same Engine Set Up that Will be going in This Rigger, which is about 1\3 the weight of the boat in the vid. It should be Off The Hook..
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5e4O8Kg3F8s[/youtube]

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

so the instructions say to leave the sheeting overhang for low powered engines and to sand them smooth with "performance engines"... for sport driving but do you think would be better.. it's being powered by a picco .12

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The Picco .12 I'd consider a low-powered engine although not a bad one at all for what's normally thrown into a 4-wheeler. What kills the engine is the ROAR legal carb. A few years ago somebody made me up some Nova Rossi .21 carbs with the bases turned down to fit the .12 cases. Boy, did those carbs make a difference! The mono that I have it in went from running wet to barely touching the water with no other changes! The bore on the Nova Rossi .12's that Glenn Quarles is selling appears ot have the same barrel bore as my .21 carbs so adapting one of those to your Picco would really wake it up.

OK, you did it and got my curiosity piqued! I just went downstairs and dug up an old Picco .12 block that I use for drilling motor mounts with, yanked a carb off of one of my Nova Rossi .12's and the carb slid right in! If you're looking for at least another 5 MPH out of that engine then order one of these carbs from Glenn.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

i plan to get it running and see what it'll do before i do any upgrades but thanks for the tips! so should i leave the sides of the sponsons with overhang then? what does the overhang help with?

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

The overhangs help to break the surface tension to help it get on plane faster. This also allow the drag to be reduced from hitting the sides of the sponsons and sides of the tub. Rod's got some other words for what else it'll do, just a little fancier.

joseywales

Leave the over hang on. It does help getting on plane faster. We left them on her .12 rigger.

fishy2k8

My Feedback: (4)

okay will do, less sanding anyways haha.

joseywales

Oh I forgot,You do need to sand the over hang off where the turnfin is set at, or other wise fin will sit cockeyed.

siberianhusky

Just a couple pics of it before the clear coat. Was going to be purple and green. The guy at the paint shop had miss-tints of GM bahama blue met. and Toyota met. garnet for way cheaper! The garnet is a bit darker than I would prefer oh well.
Not painting the bottom, block sanded the running surfaces flat then two coats of thinned epoxy block sanded between coats, just going to clear coat it all.
Strut should be here in a couple of days, then the ski will go on.
The outside arm on the rudder will be cut off, just what I had on hand, will look cool once I polish it.
Going the decide if the hpi will be staying in it or a .12 marine may go in. Then I will build a light glass cowl for the engine bay. Might have to rig up a temporary water deflector for the carb.
Spektrum DX2s radio, JR sport mini servos,a mg one for rudder, 48oz/in torque should be ok for this thing. 4aaa alkaline cells for a battery pack. Aquacraft header, macs pipe, Solinger sg flywheel. Z-12 strut and turnfin, First run will be a 1438 prop, also have a 1440 and x440. Hughey .150 cable. Du-bro 4 oz rectangular tank.
Hmmm can't seem to upload pics today!
sorry!
Ok the beta mulit-image loader works the other one doesn't!
cheers