Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

I ready to get into a 80 inch 3D plane. I really like the looks of the GP Cap. I was wondering if the OS 160 would not only fly the plane , but how would it do in the 3D mode? As in hovering and pull out. Yes, I did consider going gas. But for the added price plus the added weight of the gas engine is it really needed ? It seems that going to gas on this Cap would make it atleast 2 or more lbs heavier. I know from what I've read that if the wingloading is increased too much, it will affect the flying ability of the plane. I would like everybodys opinion on whether the Cap would fly better with a OS 160 or a 46-50 cc gas engine. Thanks

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I have this plane on a DA50 and it's nicely overpowered at 13.75lbs. Sorry no video of it

Here is a video of a friend of mine flying his on an OS160 at just under 12lbs. He cut out the floor of the canopy, did not use a spinner or wheel pants and went with a Pro Zinger 18x6. I know the Zinger is not the best prop but as you'll see it flew it well. The usual APC18x6W worked well but he was trying to save as much weight as possible

http://www.hafsonline.org/video/vincentcap.wmv

This Cap232 is probably the most stable I have ever flown and I'm a huge Cap fan so I've flown several brands. Mine lives in the back of my truck and is great for those lunch hour flights as it takes 5 minutes to assemble, fuel and start it. I'm upwards of 300 flights on mine and love it

There is a growing thread on this plane at the following link, come on over there are all kinds of engines being used in this thread

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_44..._1/key_/tm.htm

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks for the link Bubba. It would be great to get one around 12 lbs. In the video it looks like the 160 flys it fine. Wish there was more video of a pullout from hover. If the Pro Zinger isnt the best prop , what would be ? I'm open for suggestions. Theres alot of 80 inch planes out there thats fro sure. But this one really caught my eye. I guess keeping it light with a 160 is the key. Thanks

rmh

Here is a scratch built -80" span Cap - 13lbs with ZDZ40 - (27%)
unlimited vertical from dead stop hover.
GP models are typically quite sturdy and a gasser should be a good match

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

The 18X6W APC is considered to be the best prop for the OS160FX and he was using that at at first, but the APC spools up a little slow for his tastes so he went with the Zinger. I'm not sure as I do not have a lot of experience with other props on the 160 but I would think a MSC18X6 would work since it has about the same load as an APC but tons lighter.

I know the video had not much hovering but I can tell you with the APC in came out nicely. With the Zinger it was slower coming out but once it started biting it started gaining speed where the APC bit immediately.

One thing to remember that when you start getting into planes this size and weight there is going to be a bit of a trade off and you will have to adjust your flying style a bit. Unless you go with a huge Glow like a 2.1 Moki or like I did with a very light gas engine then pullout from a hover will suffer.

If you really want "foamy" power then do the DA50 and use a PT Model 22x* CF prop.

Mine with the DA50 comes out of a hover like a foamy does and I can do as roughly 5 snaps right out of the hover until it starts to lose it's energy. If I just power out it's like the Energizer bunny and just keeps going and going and going

Here's mine

Sewerdude

My Feedback: (20)

Thanks for the info Bubba. Helps alot. Guess I could get both props and see what works best . Have you had any problems with the landing gear? It doesnt look to stout. Was wondering if anybody makes a cf gear for it yet.

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I have had no problems with the main gear at all, it gives just enough flew to make most landings look like greasers. If you plan to do a lot of harrier landings and use a 22 inch prop you will need to get a taller gear. Most people build up some very light ply under the gear mounts about 1 inch thick to get a bit more clearance but you really do not need it on an 18 inch prop

Graphtec makes a CF gear for the GP Ultimate which is exactly the same gear (I have that plane as well).

http://www.graphtechrc.com/Secure/mall/maingear.asp

It's part number 230 and it's one piece

Consider replacing the tail wheel with a Sullivan if you fly from grass. Mine lasted about 100 flights until it fell apart

3Dkunalud

bubbagates,

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

I would redo the joiner out of the ply. The earlier versions, like when I built mine in 2007, had good joiners, I just talked to someone today that also used ply for the joiner. Weight increase is not going to be all that bad considering a DA50 is gonna pull it around like nothing you have ever seen before.

As far as the engine box, once again mine was fine but no matter what, you should pin it. Get some 1/8th inch dowel rod, drill 1/8th holes, 3 per side and glue in the dowel rod pieces. You only need to drill no more than 1/2 inch. You can also glue in tri-stock on the inside of the engine box for added strength, I did both, pin and tri-stock

3Dkunalud

Bubbagates, 

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

NO Problem on the questions 3D

Yes, one inch piece of ply would work well for the landing gear

Honestly, I would do a 22x8 PT models for break-in and then a PT models 23x8 after break-in. I think you will find the Vess works well but the 22A would be a better choice, even after breakin, the 22B would work as well but you will suffer on pullout. I think the 23A would be about the same as the 23A, even after breakin as they do load the engine a bit more

3Dkunalud

Hey Bubbagates, 

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

You do not want you linkages to line up when the surfaces are neutral, you want them to line up at full deflection for max torque, just screw the control horn onto the block, temporarily screw on the linkage to both sides (horn and servo arm) and adjust the linkage to the hole on the servo arm until you are as straight as possible in both directions, remove the linkage, measure it and make the other one for the other aileron the exact same length and then your throws will be equal.

OH yea, make sure the servo is connected, turned on and deflected using the TX, that is very important

I had to put the arm down on the rudder servo to make it work

3Dkunalud

Down in the sense that the servo arm is facing down?

bubbagates

My Feedback: (32)

Yes, pointing towards the ground. I also went with a 1.25 inch arm on the rudder, A Cap's rudder is extremely powerful. You can use a 1.5 inch arm as well but you'll find you will not need it

3Dkunalud

bubbagates,

3Dkunalud

Bubbagates,

By looking at the picture you posted in an earlier post, it looks like the servo arm isn't pointing towards the ground, and the linkage seems to work out fine?

Bedbug

My Feedback: (1)

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