Recovering a VQ Warbird
08-21-2010, 09:13 PM
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Recovering a VQ Warbird
Alas after 2 seasons and 2 bad landings my VQ Macchi is in need of some major repairs. My temporary CA fixes aren't holding up anymore. Also the plastic wing fairings and the wing tips are shot and the plastic in the cockpit area is showing signs of stress (or distress) as well.
What I would like to do is strip the covering make some mods, (one of the things I hope to mod is the ailerons, would really like to get rid of the strip ailerons and replace with something more scale and put the servos out in the wing) also replace the plastic with balsa/ply parts as needed and then either glass cloth or monokote the plane.
Was wondering if anyone had any experience with removing this sticky back covering and suggestions on how best to go about it.
Someone will probably point out it would be easier if not cheaper to just buy a new one. I would really like to save this airframe because its all setup for my radio/engine and it is after all one unique bird.
Anyway if anyone has some suggestions I would appreciate hearing them.
ByronF
What I would like to do is strip the covering make some mods, (one of the things I hope to mod is the ailerons, would really like to get rid of the strip ailerons and replace with something more scale and put the servos out in the wing) also replace the plastic with balsa/ply parts as needed and then either glass cloth or monokote the plane.
Was wondering if anyone had any experience with removing this sticky back covering and suggestions on how best to go about it.
Someone will probably point out it would be easier if not cheaper to just buy a new one. I would really like to save this airframe because its all setup for my radio/engine and it is after all one unique bird.
Anyway if anyone has some suggestions I would appreciate hearing them.
ByronF
08-22-2010, 08:08 AM
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RE: Recovering a VQ Warbird
Hi,
I have just striped a discontinued Great Planes.60 Fokker DR1 and what I did was I warmed up the covering with the heat gun while I peeled off the Mono covering at the same time. Just take your time and don't force anything, because it will be time consuming if done right.
I cut out the CA hinges first with the X-acto, and anything with nylon hinges I strip the covering around it then apply heat all around the epoxy at the same time I used a safety razor or X-acto and slide it on the sides of the nylon hinges to help break the bond of the epoxy. I don't know how far you want to go, but IMHO It's best to do it right, including removing the horizontal stabilizer if I'm re-covering the whole airplane.
If you break anything, don't panic. Everything is repairable. If you pined the hinges, I first suggest you get them out first. Any dents from using your medical clamps or pliers to get the pins out, I just use some balsa filler and sand smooth the damaged areas.
Any damage as a result of getting the hinges out, I use pieces of balsa and CA to fill any widened groves then re-grove with with the slot machine once I have recovered the control surfaces. If you have any dents, I apply water on the dented area's then I sand everything with 500-700 block grit sandpaper. If you can feel imperfections with your fingers, the chances are you will see them when you re-cover your airplane. You want all area's that you worked on to be smooth as a baby's butt before re-covering. Also, any balsa sheeted area's I use a "Woodpecker" so it lessons the chance of bubbles forming when you iron or use the heat gun.
Before you re-cover, make sure you wipe down your plane with a lint free cloth or towel.
Any plastic parts, just sand it down starting with 800 grit to get the paint off and work your way down to 1000 grit, then wet sand with 1000 up to 2000 grit. Again, if you feel any imperfections with your finger tips, it will show when you prime it.
I always have to ask myself if the plane is worth all the trouble? Well, I think of it this way, at least I'm improving my building skills. My Fokker on the other hand is discontinued, getting parts is just about impossible, so to me it's all worth it.
Hope I helped,
Pete
I have just striped a discontinued Great Planes.60 Fokker DR1 and what I did was I warmed up the covering with the heat gun while I peeled off the Mono covering at the same time. Just take your time and don't force anything, because it will be time consuming if done right.
I cut out the CA hinges first with the X-acto, and anything with nylon hinges I strip the covering around it then apply heat all around the epoxy at the same time I used a safety razor or X-acto and slide it on the sides of the nylon hinges to help break the bond of the epoxy. I don't know how far you want to go, but IMHO It's best to do it right, including removing the horizontal stabilizer if I'm re-covering the whole airplane.
If you break anything, don't panic. Everything is repairable. If you pined the hinges, I first suggest you get them out first. Any dents from using your medical clamps or pliers to get the pins out, I just use some balsa filler and sand smooth the damaged areas.
Any damage as a result of getting the hinges out, I use pieces of balsa and CA to fill any widened groves then re-grove with with the slot machine once I have recovered the control surfaces. If you have any dents, I apply water on the dented area's then I sand everything with 500-700 block grit sandpaper. If you can feel imperfections with your fingers, the chances are you will see them when you re-cover your airplane. You want all area's that you worked on to be smooth as a baby's butt before re-covering. Also, any balsa sheeted area's I use a "Woodpecker" so it lessons the chance of bubbles forming when you iron or use the heat gun.
Before you re-cover, make sure you wipe down your plane with a lint free cloth or towel.
Any plastic parts, just sand it down starting with 800 grit to get the paint off and work your way down to 1000 grit, then wet sand with 1000 up to 2000 grit. Again, if you feel any imperfections with your finger tips, it will show when you prime it.
I always have to ask myself if the plane is worth all the trouble? Well, I think of it this way, at least I'm improving my building skills. My Fokker on the other hand is discontinued, getting parts is just about impossible, so to me it's all worth it.
Hope I helped,
Pete
08-22-2010, 08:29 AM
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RE: Recovering a VQ Warbird
Oberst
Thanks for the reply, lots of good suggestions I will try to keep in mind as I start this project.
I have stripped monokote (and film covered) planes before and they haven't been too difficult.
Unfortunately, VQ uses a sticky back vinyl material which tends to leave an adhesive residue on the plane. So I was wondering if anyone had a good way of getting this stuff off - ie a mild solvent ? - that would eliminate the need for a LOT of sanding and wasted sand paper.
I will give it a few days to see if someone comes to the rescue. If not then I will have a go at it and see what happens. If there is any interest I could post photos and do a re-construction thread.
Thanks for the reply, lots of good suggestions I will try to keep in mind as I start this project.
I have stripped monokote (and film covered) planes before and they haven't been too difficult.
Unfortunately, VQ uses a sticky back vinyl material which tends to leave an adhesive residue on the plane. So I was wondering if anyone had a good way of getting this stuff off - ie a mild solvent ? - that would eliminate the need for a LOT of sanding and wasted sand paper.
I will give it a few days to see if someone comes to the rescue. If not then I will have a go at it and see what happens. If there is any interest I could post photos and do a re-construction thread.
08-23-2010, 11:47 PM
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RE: Recovering a VQ Warbird
Well after 2 days I finally got all the covering off the Macchi and I discovered a pile of issues. As someone pointed out in some areas the vinyl pulled wood off.
The plastic wing fairings were a lost cause as were the plastic wing tips. The plastic in the cockpit area would not come out cleanly and pulled balsa with it.
Looking at the construction of this plane I really had to wonder. For example on one fuse side the piece is solid to just aft of the wing and then is spliced onto another piece which runs to tail with a "V" joint splice. On the other side it is a vertical butt joint just aft of the wing but with with 2 pieces butt joined on either end - one piece about 3" by the firewall and one about 6" by the tail. Beats heck out me why unless they were just trying to use up scraps.
I tried a number of solvents to remove the glue - alcohol, varsol, acetone, goo gone and vinyl off. None of them worked very well but I did get a nice buzz out of the ordeal.
I then tried the eraser idea and that seemed to do a fairly good job but it is tedious work. A whole lot more work than I want to do right now.
So at this point I can't justify the amount of time it will take to salvage a plane that only cost me $99. and has already given 2 years of fun. Excluding fuel I figure it comes to about $1.25 per flight which ain't bad.
So my thinking has now changed. I have saved the cowl, canopy and the tail cone. What I may do is take some tracings of the fuse sides and tail, then run it thru my table saw to get the various formers and wing and tip ribs and build my own kit from there.
Either way it is a lot of work and I only have 5 other projects ahead of it.
Gotta make the weekends longer!
In any event I thank you all for your advice and suggestions.
Byron
The plastic wing fairings were a lost cause as were the plastic wing tips. The plastic in the cockpit area would not come out cleanly and pulled balsa with it.
Looking at the construction of this plane I really had to wonder. For example on one fuse side the piece is solid to just aft of the wing and then is spliced onto another piece which runs to tail with a "V" joint splice. On the other side it is a vertical butt joint just aft of the wing but with with 2 pieces butt joined on either end - one piece about 3" by the firewall and one about 6" by the tail. Beats heck out me why unless they were just trying to use up scraps.
I tried a number of solvents to remove the glue - alcohol, varsol, acetone, goo gone and vinyl off. None of them worked very well but I did get a nice buzz out of the ordeal.
I then tried the eraser idea and that seemed to do a fairly good job but it is tedious work. A whole lot more work than I want to do right now.
So at this point I can't justify the amount of time it will take to salvage a plane that only cost me $99. and has already given 2 years of fun. Excluding fuel I figure it comes to about $1.25 per flight which ain't bad.
So my thinking has now changed. I have saved the cowl, canopy and the tail cone. What I may do is take some tracings of the fuse sides and tail, then run it thru my table saw to get the various formers and wing and tip ribs and build my own kit from there.
Either way it is a lot of work and I only have 5 other projects ahead of it.
Gotta make the weekends longer!
In any event I thank you all for your advice and suggestions.
Byron
08-24-2010, 04:23 AM
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RE: Recovering a VQ Warbird
It's normal to pull some balsa off when getting the old covering off. I've used Hobbico Hobbylite Balsa Filler to fill some or all the groves that was torn off when I took off the covering. It usually happens when I don't apply enough heat.
If it's real bad I cut around the bad area, then cut a new piece of balsa to put in its place. Once I have the piece in place I use very thin CA and put a nice bead around the balsa sheeting. Sand it down smooth and your set.
Sorry that you messed up the plastic wing tips. It's hard to remove covering off them because we all know how plastic reacts to heat!
If it's butchered, you can always make the tips out of balsa. I'd use the plastic ones as a guide/templete. If the plastic is just torn, I'd CA glue the cracks and get some Testors Plastic Filler. ( It comes in a blue and white tube ) Sand it smooth and re-use them.
Most ARF aircraft are hot glued at the manufacture. I usually use my heat gun and get it nice and warm, usually the hot glue will gel up and you can pull off what you want. I really had to heat my epoxied vertical stabilizer, while my wife pulled on it so it would let go of the darn fuse. It broke some of the thin balsa sheeting, but that was expected and it's a very easy fix.
Yes, I agree my friend that rebuilding/restoring ARF or Kit aircraft is very time consuming. If you think it's worth it, go for it!
On the other hand if the kit or ARF is still in production then you can take the easy way and buy another one. Me personally, I get a overwhelming feeling of accomplishment when I restore a plane, It really does improve ones building skills as well. IMHO
Pete
If it's real bad I cut around the bad area, then cut a new piece of balsa to put in its place. Once I have the piece in place I use very thin CA and put a nice bead around the balsa sheeting. Sand it down smooth and your set.
Sorry that you messed up the plastic wing tips. It's hard to remove covering off them because we all know how plastic reacts to heat!
If it's butchered, you can always make the tips out of balsa. I'd use the plastic ones as a guide/templete. If the plastic is just torn, I'd CA glue the cracks and get some Testors Plastic Filler. ( It comes in a blue and white tube ) Sand it smooth and re-use them.
Most ARF aircraft are hot glued at the manufacture. I usually use my heat gun and get it nice and warm, usually the hot glue will gel up and you can pull off what you want. I really had to heat my epoxied vertical stabilizer, while my wife pulled on it so it would let go of the darn fuse. It broke some of the thin balsa sheeting, but that was expected and it's a very easy fix.
Yes, I agree my friend that rebuilding/restoring ARF or Kit aircraft is very time consuming. If you think it's worth it, go for it!
On the other hand if the kit or ARF is still in production then you can take the easy way and buy another one. Me personally, I get a overwhelming feeling of accomplishment when I restore a plane, It really does improve ones building skills as well. IMHO
Pete
