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Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

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Old 01-05-2006, 06:19 PM
  #51
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Too cool, I'd love to have a pond like that, sounds like a perfect fly fishing spot, I'd also like to take a look at your windmill aerator, I wanted to use something like that for my backyard when I set up another small pond, will also look into the white amurs for the local bass pond since the weeds are out of control, I released some goldfish in it a couple of years ago to help in that area, but it's a public spot, so can only make a small dent. I'm a big one on catch and release, especially since the water quality here overall is just poor mainly due to the constant stream of military aircraft dumping their fuel all over the place prior to landing at the airforce and army bases.

Just had to add this tonight. I finally got an RC importer to play ball with me, unfortunately it's all China's stuff, but the numbers are phenominal, there is plenty of profit margins, I never expected it to be this far considering I'm new fish to this end of the field... Not trying to sell anything, nor will [8D] "at least here" [8D], I just gotta ask, what is it you guys go through the most and what is it you'd like to see differently in the supply end of this chain?
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Old 01-06-2006, 12:18 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Not sure what type of merchandise you are speaking of. If it is general RC equipment I would say:

1. In expensive brushless motors. Balspr.com has a handful of BL motors in the $20 range. These perform well but could use another $2 worth of improvements to assure that the contacts do not beak etc.....

2. Speed controllers. These are routinely as expensive or more expensive then the motors they are controlling. It is all electronics so they could be coming in around the $20 mark as well. Need reliability though.

3. The final item is LiPo batteries. Dymond Model Sports sells some good entry level cells for a reasonable price. (About equal to NiMh of the same capacity.) Everyone agrees that LiPo prices are not in line with cost of production but set more for what the market will bear.

Right now it can easily cost over $100 to purchase a decent BL motor, Speed Control and 3s 2000 mh LiPo battery. Should be closer to $60.

If this is not what you were asking about then never mind. Otherwise send me a catalog.

Look at Balsapr.com. I go there a lot looking for gear.

Good Luck!
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Old 01-06-2006, 06:37 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

They have some good stuff there, pricing is cheap, looked into their dealership program, looks like I don't qualify, all I have is a cabinet/cart production shop, no showroom or hobby store, which is what they require. My vision is to have each plane line fully supported, this means if I sell a kit, you can literally build it from scratch since 100% of the parts for it will be at the site. Let me know if you have any other places that offer great deals like that one, the more the merrier.

Iv'e opted to edit this post showng a few photo's of the latest plane ready for it's maiden voyage. It's my first attempt at mylar covering with primary balsa construction, I added a couple of small 1/8" hardwood plywood and a basswood dowel reinforcing the balsa construction throughout the rest of the tail section. It's about the same as the stock J3 weight wise, but much stronger based upon entirely diferent construction principals. I just rebuilt a new fuselage and reintergrated the rest [tail, wing, and electronics] as much as possible from the parkzone original version, it was interesting to see how they did it from this perspective.







And my latest foamie disc, it's an electric free flight job I tore apart the components from a harbor freight electric plane.





It needs to be lightened up, but doing so is going to weaken the structure so I've opted to take some photo's before it's potentially destroyed during testing, it's been raining non stop and I can only test indoors, so they are indoor crash against the wall tests, so far it's held strong and flies correctly, I just need a break in the weather so I can really test it out in the park. Let me know what any of you think.
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Old 01-08-2006, 01:56 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Critterhunter,

You had asked why I had the 7x4 prop on my BP-21. Well I tried a 7x5 on it yesterday and absolutely hated it. It was noisy and did not feel good. Plane would go vertical until it was out of site but the flight performance was screwy. I went back to the 7x4 prop and man did it relax me. The plane is about as fast but runs much smoother and sounds like a full sized A-10 Warthog. I am sticking with the 7x4 prop from now on. I also got a little careless and crashed the SO What for the first time. It hit a tree branch with the leading edge of the main wing. No real damage there since it was re-enforced with packing tape. But the plane spun around and tore off a boom right at its connection with the main wing. Not a big deal until I set the glue gun on high heat and melted a huge hole in the middle of the boom repair. Cooled the glue gun down and finished the repairs. Looks good as new. I will put it back in the air today. The BP-21 seems to be running a little rough recently. How do the bearings go bad? Does it just get sloppier and vibrate more?

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Old 01-10-2006, 03:03 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Hey guys, been busy lately so haven't had a chance to reply to both of you. In fact, the other day I managed the time to write a nice long message to you both on here and ended up losing it when I tried posting. I was NOT happy! So, what I'm saying is I'll be going back to prior messages and responding to your remarks, questions, etc ASAP. I've been on the computer too long already today so I'll keep this one concerning Fisher's latest post....

Hmmm...don't know why a 7x5 would give you problems as like I've said the 7x6 APC slow flier (needs to be for electrics) is the premium choice for the Stryker guys with the BP21. Then again, I don't know enough about mass (plane weight) and how that would effect the size prop you'd want on the BP21 with various birds. I would figure that foamie is much lighter than the Stryker (at least my stryker as I mod it for strength big time). That would probably mean you'd want less torque at the prop as it has less mass to move through the air? I remember reading somewhere from Cadetman on the Stryker thread that the next best choice to the 7x6 was (I think) an 8x4.5" or something like that if you built a heavy Stryker. I REALLY do need to read up on this prop stuff so I know more about what I'm talking about.

If the BP21 sounds a bit louder than new (a "rumble" sound is what I've heared in a bad one) then you've got either a bad prop that is either flexing way too much or is unbalanced, OR....(more like) one of the bearings is going bad in the BP21. Grab the motor by the bell/shaft and pull it in and out. Some will have a bit of in/out play and some don't, but both are not a problem as I've had new BP21s with some play or none at all. Now try to wobble the bell/shaft back and four sideways. If it does this a good bit then you've for sure got a blown bearing. But, even with a bad bearing, it may not show up in this test. Next thing to do is take it apart (real easy).

Loosen the set screw that holds the BP21 to it's mounting plate. Now pull on the motor until it comes out of the plate. Next, remove the tiny C-clip on the back of the motor that is clipped on the end of the shaft. I find that two strong needles work best to spread the clip and remove it. Now the bell and shaft should pull out of the motor as one piece. It won't be easy to do as your fighting the magnetic hold and maybe a blown bearing that is grabbing things. Once the bell/shaft is out look on the shaft inside the bell and see if any bearings/material is on it. The shaft should be straight with no bumps or humps that may even look like they belong there. However, up by the C-clip, there will be one bump on the shaft that does belong. Now look inside the shaft hole on the motor at both ends. There should be two bearings (if they didn't stay on the shaft). They sort'a look like 3 circles within each other. The inner and outter circles should NOT spin against the shaft or shaft hole (you'd call these "races" on a car's wheel bearings). The only action should be the inner bearings should move between them. To test this stick something like a pencil tip into the inner race (the one that rests against the motor shaft) and try moving it back and forth. It should move easy and smooth (well, it shouldn't...the inner bearings shouldn't move in reality when it's secured to the motor shaft, BUT...it will move in this test). Test the bearing on the other side of the motor as well. You might also put a bit of bearing oil in the INNER circle while you're at it. Try not to lube the outter shell (races) of the bearing as you don't want them slipping against the shaft or shaft hole. Really, bearings are so cheap I'd just replace them both if I suspected any problem without doing these tests. If the motor is making more noise then it should then you can almost bet it's a bad bearing. When you remove the old ones make sure you get all the bits out or the new ones will NOT press in easily. I use a carbon tube roughly the same diameter as the bearings to push them in and flat. Don't use anything that may dent the bearing. A carbon tube or doll rod is OK. It will take a little force to push the bearing into the shaft hole but not a whole bunch. In other words, if you feel the need to break out the hammer then you've still got a sleeve of metal in that shaft hole that needs to come out. It may look like it's part of the shaft but it's not. The shaft hole is bigger (wider in diameter) at the front and back where the bearings go in and sit. I had to drill one out once to get the rest of the metal out, but a sharp knife will probably work to "peel" it off the shaft.

Oh, by the way, make sure you check the magnets in the bell and around the windings while it's apart. It's possible metal has attached it's self to the motor and may also cause the noise you hear. There is very little clearance between the magnets as it spins. Then again, you could have magnets rubbing when the motor is running if the shaft/bell got bent.

Hope this helps and any other questions just ask. Also, as said, will respond to previous messages when I get the chance this week.
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Old 01-17-2006, 11:45 AM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Critterhunter,

Thanks for the detailed BP-21 bearing maintenance instructions. Where do you get replacement bearings? My plane weighs 15 oz. AUW. I went back to the 7 X 4 prop and she flies so sweet. I might try an 8 X 4 prop just to see it the problems with the 7 X 5 were related to the greater pitch.
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Old 01-17-2006, 01:47 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Still haven't found the time to respond to the older messages by you guys on this thread but will soon enough...

Fisher, you may be on to something there. I still haven't taken the time to put together the hot wire cutter so I'm been busy converting the Challenger over to standard electronics, BP21, and 3 cell 2000ma 10C lipos. It just so happens that the Challenger (stock, anyway) weighs 15 ounces...about the same weight as your foamie build. So, I've been doing a bit of digging to find out if the prop size should change to keep the BP21 at the right RPMs with the reduced plane weight. The stock Stryker weighs 21 ounces and my latest BP21 Stryker build weighs 22.2 ounces. This was surprising as I added a lot of strength and ease of use mods to the build. I thought it would weight a good bit more than 1.2 ounces over stock but the BP21 and standard electronics must have saved me a good bit of weight. In fact, I broke out the scale the other day and the BP21 weighs about half the weight of the 480 in a stock Stryker.

Anyway, 7x6 on the BP21 is the sweet spot for the Stryker but we are both dealing with a much lighter bird. I've received a few responses that hint toward the proper prop size on a 15 ounce plane. For one, check out the 3D Electrics forum here under "Tempted to buy a BP21" or something similar and you'll see a discussion on prop sizes for it. Next, look on the "F27, WAY PAST THE LIMITS! Part #3" thread on page 4 or so. Somebody responded to me about this there as well. I think (haven't read it over closely yet) that the 7x4 is the suggested prop size by one guy, though there probably is an even better choice.

The BP21 bearings should be carried at most hobby stores. However, you need to know the size which I don't have with me at the moment. I can dig that up for you if you want. I'd also pick up a pack of those tiny C-clips.
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Old 01-20-2006, 04:29 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Critterhunter,

Thanks for the info. I think that the motor might be getting a little wobbly but after I put the 7 X 4 back on it smoothed right out. Might be the other prop was out of balance.

Now I am very interested in putting some lights this foam plane. It looks like it would be so easy but not sure where to get the equipment. Any ideas?
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Old 01-20-2006, 06:25 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Fisher, lights are easy. I built a light pack for a plane with a quick trip to Radio Shack. They have various leds in a wide range of DC voltage inputs. I'd wire them in series and use enough LEDs to equal the input voltage...if I'm remembering my high school electronics class right. For instance, you have a 12 volt lipo...So, say you picked up 6 leds at around 2 volts each. If I remember right, wired in series 6x2volts=12 volts. Wired in parallel, which would be a bit harder to do, you'd need to use 12 volt leds. Just remember leds have a polarity. Hook one up backwards and it'll instantly burn out. I installed mine into a glue stick tube. What's neat about it is the LEDS only need to point to the wings and they will shine like a spot light on them. I mounted the tube under the body and had two LEDS shining on each wing, then one shining at the nose and one at the tail. Looks like a UFO in the night sky. I've also used the Hobbyzone night flight module on the Extreme and Challenger and that's cool. You can push the button on the transmitter to keep changing the lights to flash, not flash, or flash in various sequences. Word of advice...If you have your lights under the plane and none on top you need to get the plane high and directly above you to keep a handle on things.
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Old 01-22-2006, 04:53 AM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

critterhunter, ever draw some juice from the main receiver board to power some led's? I'm wanting to do that, on the opposite side of the scale, leds are very forgiving, I've given them way more juice then what they were intended for "in short intervals" in the past, I'm thinking the low tech way to go is just to string a few powered by a watch battery, what are you throughts?
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Old 01-22-2006, 02:46 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

I already have the night flight module for my Slo-V and it works great. I was hoping to build something like it or modify it to work with standard electronics. Just plugging it into an empty slot on the receiver would be great.
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Old 01-23-2006, 12:33 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Fisher, you could probably use the night flight module by just simply providing power to the two power pins on the X-port plug (removing it and using the two wires on a servo plug to feed off the plane's power). I think your RX will be providing around 6 volts or so of power. Even giving or taking 2 to 5 volts shouldn't hurt those LEDs in it. You'll not be able to change the LED display modes. Perhaps you could try grounding the input pin wire for a split second and this might be enough to get it to change modes?

On using a watch battery....Why not just take advantage of the plane's battery? Yes, LEDs will take some abuse but the higher the voltage the more hot (and short lived) that may be. I'd just figure out what your input voltage is going to be, then grab enough LEDs at Radio Shack to equal that voltage roughly, then wire them in series. I'm pretty sure that is how it works, or at least I haven't had a problem. If you are using less LEDs then the required voltage input then you'd have to use a resistor to lower the input voltage. But, there are so many LED choices at Radio Shack that I'm sure you can find the right combination and number of LEDs to equal the input voltage. Doesn't have to be close, just within 2 to 4 volts or so.

Just reember that even with the night flight module if you won't have any lights on top of the plane it's VERY hard to see from a distance while turning and showing you the top. You have to get the plane high and above you to keep a good eye on whats going on. I'd put a few LEDS on the wing tips on top of the plane, as well as maybe a light on the nose and at the tail. You could easily use thin wire and some scotch tape to run LEDS all the way out to these tips of the plane.

I would also consider RC-CAMs X-port module adapter that allows you to use X-port modules (Combat, night flight, etc) with standard electronics. You could plug the night flight module into this little do-hickey and then be able to use the full functions of it through your standard RX. He used to have free plans for this but I think he took them off and is now selling this thing for around $30. I plan to buy one to use the combat module with my Brushless Stryker. Going to prey on my friend's stock Challengers, Extremes, and Strykers with my 85mph killing machine.
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Old 01-23-2006, 01:06 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

OK, here's some response to the older messages...

Windmill aerators are very cool. Most people don't realize how this improves a pond. The water below 6 or 7 feet is very low in oxygen. You sink the aeration stone at the deepest spot you can find in the pond. The bubbles do add air to the water but the act of the water and bubbles rising is what really does it. It forces the water at the bottom to rise with the airflow and puts it on the surface where wind and surface exposure add more oxygen to the water. Many ponds suffer from what is called "turn over" in the spring. What happens is the temperture change in the water will cause the pond to turn over, bringing water with no air in it to the surface. This often kills a bunch of fish as they are starved for air. With aeration the bottom water is constantly being forced to the surface to add air to it, and as a result we don't see the kind of spring fish kills we once did on his pond. Also, aeration does a few more good things. It puts air at the bottom which allows micro organisms to live down there and feed on the sludge (dead organic matter like weeds and animals) at the bottom. They break down this matter and as a result it will prevent the pond from silting in...and even will deepen a pond as it breaks down the gunk. This also removes the "fertilizer" that the plants have been thriving off of, and thus you'll get less weed growth. The water quality also improves and clears a bit. The final benefit to all this is it increases the fish carrying capacity of the pond. Now fish, big and small, can live at the very bottom at all times of the year...not just when conditions permit...as they now have the air and food down there to feed on.

As for what I'd like to see in an RC outlet...Cheap! Lipos and brushless motors are WAY overpriced and you have to dig deep to find the deals. Most lipos are made in China and then the company just slaps a name on them and maybe does some quality testing. In other words, you are paying for the name. Dymond sells good 3 cell 2000ma 10C packs at $30 and World Hobbies is selling even cheaper lipos on Ebay now which I might try next. Even $30 is a bit too high. I'd like to pay around $20 to $25 for a 2000ma 3 cell pack at 10C or higher. A brushless motor in my opinion should not cost more than $30 unless it's some big monster for a larger plane. The BP21 is only $20 from Balsa. You can expect to pay about $50 or more for a similar motor from other companies, and lipos like the above are $60 or $70 from the "brand names". Speed controls....I'd like to see 25 to 30 amp brushless speed controls in the $20 to $25 range. RXs...A good full range RX will cost you $40 to $55. Like to see those in the $25 to $30 range. I did pick up a GWS 4 channel RX with crystal for only $21, but this "Pico" is only rated at somewhere between 500 and 1000 feet. Servos...$17 for a HS81 isn't bad. Now, if I could buy those for about $10 a pop that'd be more to my liking.

Fisher, by the way...after some more input on prop sizes for the BP21 and a plane weighing around 15 ounces there appears to be two choices to try. A 7x4 or an 8x4. I just picked up a 7x4 for my BP21 Challenger build (almost done by the way). I don't know if an 8" will clear the boom on the Challenger but you may want to try it on you're foamie. From what I've been told a 7x4 (less pitch than a 7x6) will lower the speed a bit but give you good torque. An 8x4 will give an even bigger increase in torque (from what I understand). I'm now using a Deans 4 pin plug to attach the BP21 to the 3 ESC motor wires. This will allow easy electronics/motor removals and engine swapping between planes. On my Stryker build I have the motor wires soldered directly to the ESC wires. On the Challenger the ESC wires have to reach the motor on the outside of the body. I didn't want to route them out the body, solder them, and then stuff them back into the plane. Now I just have a plug in a hole on the body near the motor that the motor simply plugs into. Next time I have to rebuild the Stryker I'm going to put these plugs on the motor and ESC. That way, if I blow a motor or want to throw it on another plane real quick I only need to unplug it from the ESC.
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Old 01-23-2006, 05:12 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

I flew the So What for 26 minutes at 0 F yesterday. No real loss of air time at these low temperatures. Kind of a bummer though since it is my core temp that is of concern now. I will probably try the 8 x 4 prop at some point. Have you got the hot wire cutter built yet?
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:18 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Thanks for the input critterhunter, I've been getting people giving me feedback that they want kits, in fact, am finding most people that visit this place only build off of them, what are your views in this area? Personally, I'm having just as much, if even more so not building from kits any more, it's pushing my skills into different areas and it's cool to be able to make a revision and/or general layout that's more into the logic of the final structure. Pricing is paramount, I agree with you in that area, and it's one of the stipulations I require any new supplier to deliver to me so I can extend it to future clients.

Fisher, I hear you on the core temperature, It's very cold up here, and have found out the temperature overwhelms the battery system to a point making it impractical to RC until it gets warmer, am thinking of wiring in a heater coil around it to get more control in this area, have you tried that before?
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Old 01-23-2006, 08:10 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Fisher, I too took my Stryker out yesterday for a flight. However, here in Cleveland we've been real lucky this month of January. Many days in the 40s and low 50s. December was VERY cold. Over 4 weeks with no days above or near average (average for December is around 34). I work outside year round and prefer the winter...so long as the temp is around 25+ with no wind I'm good to go. Yesterday it was in the high 30s or so. Since this latest BP21 Stryker build was up only one other time so far in very high winds, I wanted to fly it on a calm day to see if all was well. Only had it up about five minutes to see what it was doing as the place I choose to fly was making me nervous. Lot's of potential "bad landing" areas like buildings and a highway, so I landed it quick and fine. Plane needs just a tad of trimming but I'll wait for my next outing to do that. I haven't had much trouble with battery temperture getting too cold. If you keep the battery in your pocket until ready to fly and it should stay toasty with motor amp draw.

Nope, haven't built the foam cutter yet. I've got about an hour or two of work left on this Challenger BP21 conversion installing the control rods and then all will be done with it. THEN it's time to make that foam cutter and work on the upscaled 540 foamie monster. After that I'll probably build the BP21 version of it.
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:21 AM
  #67
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Thanks for the feedback, I found out foam and balsa doesn't mix unless you combine the two completely seperately, the below is where I'm at with merging them together, the sealer/coatings destoryed the foam.



I'm setting up the RC elements for it next, I test glided it, it performed perfectely. This is my all time worst paper covering job I've ever done, hehe, live and learn, will learn from this one.

I ditched the rudder and redid it in foam, here is the final result ready to fly:

[link]http://discflight.com/x1-2.jpg[/link]
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Old 01-31-2006, 01:34 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Hey Fisher, check out Foam Flyer's home page (Very 1st page on his site). He's got a plane he just built called "Shizophrenia" (something like that) that kind'a looks like a Wart Hog. I'm LOVING the look of that one and I *WILL* build it after this first foamie. Man, I love this sport...
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Old 01-31-2006, 04:17 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Ya, looks nice. Put a ducted fan on either side and you are tearing up ground armor like no ones buisnes. The more I work with the EPS the more it makes sense to me. I recieved a GP Reflection for Christmas and have more hours building it then I put in making the hotwire bow and constructing two planse from scratch. Now I am waiting for the air temperature to rise above zero or maybe even above freezing before I attempt to fly the Reflection. Do not want the plastic parts to shatter on my first rough landing. I was flying the #$%%^ out of my SO What at -5 degrees this weekend when the servos began to freeze up. I guess with a wind chill of -30 or more when flying at 40 mph that can happen. Plane flies great though.

Now you just have to get that hotwire bow made and start cutting wings.
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:24 AM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Yep, yesterday I printed out a stack of paper about two inches high to read over. It consists of the upscaling formula message responses I received from others to build my 540 version. I also printed out the "updated" foamie plans for the plane, along with this thread and your wing airfoil information. Not to mention more info on building homemade hot wire cutter tools and working with foam. In other words, I've got a ton of reading to do. I'll be reading more of the foam cutting info first so I can get that all built. By the way, with the BP21 Stryker done, my Extreme conversion to standard electronics and control rods done, and now I'm within an hour or two of finishing off the Challenger running the BP21, lipos, and control rods...I'm running out of things to tweak or build fast here so the foamie is next. I just have to fix a stripped servo on the Challenger and adjust the control rods position on the board to lesson a binding problem. That plane is going to rock and roll. Really, I haven't flown any of these three planes after this stuff yet...except the Stryker for a few minutes. In the future I may convert the Extreme over to a brushless motor. At the very lest I'll be running lipos in her once in a while to lower the weight and thus be better able to lift a digital camcorder.

I like your idea about ducted fans for the Shizophrenia foamie. Are you thinking of building that foamie and, if so, with what kind of power plant(s). How do you think that one would look with dual 540s and upscaled. I'd tweak it's details out to perfect the Wart Hog look. Hey, next time you are in Radio Shack check out the Megatech ducted fan war plane they got in there for like $35. I was this close to buying one to gut and throw a BP21 into.

PS- I expect to see pictures of your completed Shizophrania body by the end of the week!
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Old 02-01-2006, 12:08 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

The only way you will see photos of a new Shizophrania by the end of the week is if someone else posts them. Not only am I short on time to work on another plane I am quite sure that my wife will skin me alive for building another plane before I have a chance to smash up my new GP Reflection. With 3 strykers, 2 SO Whats, 1 Slo-V and 1 GP Refection taking up the rec room I am pushing it pretty hard with the hobby. I think I need to start getting more aggressive with my flying and smash up a couple of planes for an excuse to build another. With this hotwire foam cutting and EPS being so cheap I have been considering all kinds of designs. Not limits here. I can not wait to see your 540 sized SO. What are you going to name it? The SO Big!

Do not forget to document the build so I can see what your new dimensions are and how you re-enforce the wing and tail booms. I think a carbon tube will be needed in the wing but the tail booms might be OK with just a good coating of extreme strapping tape. Have fun.
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Old 02-01-2006, 02:08 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

I'd be interested in purchasing a foam cutter from you fisher, gives you a reason to build something for actual profit, I may want several different sizes. Let me know if you, or anyone else is game.
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Old 02-01-2006, 10:14 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

You have to figure out ways to convince your wife that this is a good addiction. Use phrases like "It keeps me out of the bar", or "Look on the bright side, it's better than being hooked on porn". Yep, I'll be posting photos and the upscaling formula on the 540 build as I go for others to follow. You have to remember that 540s and Sub Cs are mainly used in RC cars and trucks. There aren't too many electric planes out there using them...at least in park flyers. That's why I'll be sure to post all the details on this build and any others I upscale to the 540(s). "SO Big"! Very funny. I'll tell you what I'll do. Since I plan to paint her up like a P38 or some other WWII war plane, she'll get the name "So Big" written on the side just like they named planes in the war. Of course the name will have a different meaning then being a big version of the "So" series. More like a "lucky with the ladies" theme, if you know what I mean. Yea, carbon rods will be the rule of thumb where ever I feel the need to use them. For sure in the wing it'll get one, regardless if the wing is a single piece or two....It'll have one or two in it. The tail boom/body area might as well. I don't like leaving anything to chance when it comes to building a plane. Strength and ease of use in the field is my first priority. What good is a light plane if it crumbles into dust the first time you crash it? Most of my builds are like flying tanks. I don't care if it costs me a few ounces more of weight.

Hey, off topic here...Was watching the discovery channel today and saw them build an RC plane that looked like an albatross (spelling is wrong...those flying reptiles). They did it to discover how these animals flew. Very cool. Gave me an idea. In the future when I'm real bored I may build a foamie and then cover it with feathers and a head, making it look like some kind of prehistoric creature. I can see the problem now...."Hey, that bald eagle just eat my RC plane!"

Expresso, depending on how well things go for me I might take you up on that if nobody else does. I'll at least post the most simple way to build and use one once I stir through the stacks of material I have to read.

Hey, was it you Fisher that was talking about wanting to build a CNC foam cutter? I'm pretty handy with electronic hack jobs (built things like deer trail cameras, electronic fish bite alarms, robo goose (remote control goose for hunting), deer feeder, etc. Most of this has been my own "hack and wack" electronics I've hacked together from other projects. I may take on a project like this. I know all the basic components and their functions and can build some basic circuits. Put it this way, I know enough to where I don't let the "magic smoke" out of the parts that makes them work...most of the time.

One more question for you....I'm really tempted to not use that EPS foam and instead go to the Owens Corning stuff which is stronger and smoother. I know it weighs more but the stuff looks so much better and most foamies are built from this stuff. Do you think the extra weight will be too much wing loading?
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Old 02-02-2006, 01:09 AM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

Hook me up with some foam cutters created by critterhunter then....... I can use this stuff, perhaps you may make a side biz out of it, I'm sure there are a myriad of readers that would love to acquire one as well.

I'm also looking into just injection molding this stuff, you gotta love the simplicity behind that one. Combining the two will be killer.
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Old 02-02-2006, 12:04 PM
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Default RE: Here's a Simple & FREE First Foam Build Plan! Cool Looking Plane Too...

There are a couple of good pages related to home built CNC machines.
This looks like the best one. Has a link to parts supplier.

http://www.8linx.com/cnc/day5.htm

For about $350 you can get the electronic guts to build one here. Apparently they are redesigning their foam cutting package so it is not available yet. If you are as handy as you imply (and I am not questioning that fact). I would say taking the time to put a CNC machine together would be the cats @#$ for this type of work. You could crank out foam parts all day long. Cutting wing cores with a bow only takes a few seconds. Making the templates and lining everything up takes 30 minutes or more and if you are not feeling too well that day then you might ruin the whole thing. With a CNC you should get great results each time.

www.hobbycnc.com

As for using the pink or blue foam instead of the very light white EPS, I think the weight will be about 2 to 3 times more for the blue and pink foam. I ran across a good weight comparison but cannot find it now. I will keep looking. Other than the weight issue they should work fine. Re-read Foamflyer's discussion on materials. He likes EPS because it is so light. With a bigger bird you will have more mass so I do not think that strength will be a big issue. I busted a boom off of my SO What when it hit a tree. 2 minutes with a hot glue gun fixed that. Plane flies great. Just like the Stryker you need to reinforce high impact areas with packing tape. When I hit the tree with the leading edge of the wing it did not hurt the plane. It was only after the plane spun around and hit the tail boom did it break. And even then it broke at an un-reinforced area.

My SO What Weights ~15 oz. AUW. If you end up doubling all dimensions you will have a 50 to 60 oz plane using EPS. If you use the pink or blue foam you might end up with a 120 to 180 oz plane. Just my two cents.



http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/Con.../FoamWing.html


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