brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

I want to buy this for a scratch crap foamy im building..ESKY 20 amp brushed esc.

Specifications:
-Size: 38mm x 17mm x 7.8mm

-Weight (approximately): 10g

Sustaining Voltage: 6 - 15v

-BEC Current: 3.0A

-Continuous Output Current: 20A

-Instant Max Current: 25A


IT can hold a sustaining voltage of 6-15v. Can i use a Ni/mh 2/3ap 1100mAh 8.4v battery? The battery nearly exploded 2 other esc but there original batterys were 9.6v and the mAh was smaller. Is it the 1100 mAh that burned the esc,s? Or can i use it with the ESKY one without a problem?

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

The ESC's maximum energy handling is going to be limited by the battery voltage (8.4V in your case, so a max of 15V is fine), and/or current (in your case 20A.)

So if your motor is designed to handle 8.4V and you select a prop that causes the motor to pull less than 20A, your ESC will be fine. If that were the case, you would have (say) 8V x 20A = 160 watts, which is the best case you could hope for.

However, your motor may not handle a current of 20A, in which case you must select a prop which loads it less (either smaller diameter or less pitch) to get your maximum allowable current. Similar consideration apply to making sure that your battery can provide enough current without damage. This is the only place where the mah rating gets involved. You will really need to get/borrow a wattmeter to find out what is going on for a given combination of motor, prop, ESC and battery.

Hope this helps!!...Chris

jdetray

Your ESCs most likely overheated because you tried to pull too much current through them. This is not caused by the battery but by the motor and the size of your prop.

You need to be sure that your motor/prop combination does not draw so much current that it exceeds the current rating of your ESC. This is best done with a wattmeter. That is the only way to be certain of how much current your motor/prop is drawing.

To provide an additional margin of reliability, you should not operate an ESC right at the edge of its rated capacity. For example, if your power system draws 20A, use an ESC that can handle 25 or 30A. The ESC will run cooler, which is very desireable.

- Jeff

brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

The motor wasn't even on...it was just the esc and battery.[&o]

jdetray

That is a different matter. If the ESC was damaged merely by connecting the battery, either the battery was connected backward or the ESC itself was defective. The capacity (mAh) of the battery can't damage an ESC.

- Jeff

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

...Or do you mean that you plugged the ESC into the battery without the motor leads connected to a motor? That could also be a good reason for a fried ESC.

JDETRAY is right - the capacity (mah) of the battery has nothing to do with frying your ESC.

brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

so you think just because my motor wasnt plugged in it fried my esc? How??[:-][:-]

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

I believe that if you power up an ESC without any load (i.e. motor), it will be damaged. Is that perhaps what happened?

brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

yeah..now that i think about it im pretty sure thats it.

lejongleur

My Feedback: (10)

JDetray - Those certainly are some amazing glasses you are wearing !!

jdetray

It is amazing what you can do with Photoshop, isn't it?

- Jeff

brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

I just found an esc from guanli and plugged it into a brushed motor and plugged in a battery...it smoked again!!! I dont get why?! Is my battery defective? There was no reciever plugged in in case of the burn out happening....The guanli used a 9.6v and i dont know how many mAh...But the battery that keeps burning my esc's is a 8.4v with 1100mAh..what is going on?!

jdetray

Is there any chance you have the battery connector wired backward (positive and negative reversed)? Have you double-checked this?

- Jeff

brickhead179

My Feedback: (1)

yes and there exactly the way they should be