Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
#76
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
Sorry, all but one. I limited this to production engines since I doubt everyone will be lining up to buy one of the new, custom built, race engines. You have to remember that 80% of the people are using Chinese engines these days, and I guarantee none of them have a sleeve. It would cost more. Heaven forbid they elect to shave a few pennies and run a straight, unlined cylinder.
#77
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
These will not be for sale..Just trying to illustrate the fact that sleeved two stroke gassers are common...Surprised Pe Reivers hasn't said something..
#80
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
ORIGINAL: flyinjrc74
Use pennzoil 2 cycle 32:1 mix with 87 octane and you will be fine. I don't care to run anything with a 50:1 mix, too little oil!!!
The DLE 30 does not have a hardened sleeve.... Great engine with loads of power for the little that it weighs. I run a 20'' APC competition prop and it swings it with ease! Enjoy it and don't seize it up with a 50:1 mix, manual recommends a 30:1 mix so i really do not know why these guys would run 50:1 mix or even suggest it???
Use pennzoil 2 cycle 32:1 mix with 87 octane and you will be fine. I don't care to run anything with a 50:1 mix, too little oil!!!
The DLE 30 does not have a hardened sleeve.... Great engine with loads of power for the little that it weighs. I run a 20'' APC competition prop and it swings it with ease! Enjoy it and don't seize it up with a 50:1 mix, manual recommends a 30:1 mix so i really do not know why these guys would run 50:1 mix or even suggest it???
BCCHI
#81
RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
BCCHI, ....I scrolled back up and that Bunny licking a cone....winked! Now how did that happen???? Must be he/she liked me! Capt,n
#82
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
I have searched and searched to come up with which oil is the best, I have decided to use Stihl HP Ultra, but I think the best way to settle this debate once and for all and in an effort to make it easier for a newbie, someone should start a poll and see what percentage of people are using what oil.
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
Now I guess it is time for me to get my 2 cents in....Why do you have to break-in a 2 cycle engine that is ringed ???? At the present time I am running a DLE-20 on 100-1 Redline Racing Synthetic from
the get go...no problems...ran a tank of gas on the ground...setting it up...then up in the air...
Codimasta
AMA 11269
the get go...no problems...ran a tank of gas on the ground...setting it up...then up in the air...
Codimasta
AMA 11269
#85
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
ORIGINAL: Razor Hobbies
To add on to this thread on deciding oils and oil ratio.
At Razor Hobbies when running all of our DLE engines even other brands its best to run a synthetic oil. The synthetic oil helps to preserve engine life and prevent engine wear. On our DLE-55 and DLE-111 we run 40:1 full synthetic even during break in. We literally have one of the first DL-50 engines that is over 2 years old and still screaming power.
The oil we use is Castrol Power RS TTS 2T Full Synthetic. You can buy this at any Oreilly's Auto Parts or at Auto Zone. We even sell it on our website at [link=http://www.razorhobbies.com]www.RazorHobbies.com[/link].
Don't settle for regular non synthetic motor oils. Save your self the trouble and investment by going with a full synthetic oil.
To add on to this thread on deciding oils and oil ratio.
At Razor Hobbies when running all of our DLE engines even other brands its best to run a synthetic oil. The synthetic oil helps to preserve engine life and prevent engine wear. On our DLE-55 and DLE-111 we run 40:1 full synthetic even during break in. We literally have one of the first DL-50 engines that is over 2 years old and still screaming power.
The oil we use is Castrol Power RS TTS 2T Full Synthetic. You can buy this at any Oreilly's Auto Parts or at Auto Zone. We even sell it on our website at [link=http://www.razorhobbies.com]www.RazorHobbies.com[/link].
Don't settle for regular non synthetic motor oils. Save your self the trouble and investment by going with a full synthetic oil.
#86
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
ORIGINAL: Razor Hobbies
In reference to a previous post i made. After being told for so long that it was ok to break in an engine on synthetic. I am finally getting valuable information. It is important break in your engine with an oil such as lawnboy or so on. If you use a full synthetic during break in it does not alow the engine to fully break in. My bad im glad at least i know now.
In reference to a previous post i made. After being told for so long that it was ok to break in an engine on synthetic. I am finally getting valuable information. It is important break in your engine with an oil such as lawnboy or so on. If you use a full synthetic during break in it does not alow the engine to fully break in. My bad im glad at least i know now.
Totally not true, nothing wrong with breaking an engine in on synthetic oil and it WILLbreak-in completely, might take another hour or two but no problem. Do you think companies like Stihl, Echo, Husky, Poulan,and Homelite, don't know what they are doing? They include fully synthetic oil with their equipment when purchased new in the box with instructions to use fully synthetic oil from day one and forever. I've been doing it for many years, you telling ME my engine have never broken in?
#87
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
I brought my DA50 in on 40.1 Stihl Ultra. It has been 1 year now and this thing runs and starts like a champ. I will be buying a 120 in the next few weeks, and will break in the same way.
Tony
Tony
#88
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
After a few thousand engines broken in with synthetic I think I can say with conviction they most certainly do break in. Those stating they do not clearly don't have all that much engine time under their belts, and are limited in the number engines they have run and the length of time they have run them.
For the person that wondered why you break an engine in. This has been answered many times before but a short version is to seat the rings and heat cycle the cast components. Use more oil for break in to handle heat and carry away wear particles generated by the initial wear process. Pull a cylinder off afer a couple hours of running time someday and peek inside and you'll understand....maybe.
For those that want to use Lawnboy, don't come crying to the RC forums about all the carbon in your engines after using the crap. You might get all of it out of the mufflers, perhaps not.
For the person that wondered why you break an engine in. This has been answered many times before but a short version is to seat the rings and heat cycle the cast components. Use more oil for break in to handle heat and carry away wear particles generated by the initial wear process. Pull a cylinder off afer a couple hours of running time someday and peek inside and you'll understand....maybe.
For those that want to use Lawnboy, don't come crying to the RC forums about all the carbon in your engines after using the crap. You might get all of it out of the mufflers, perhaps not.
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Totally not true, nothing wrong with breaking an engine in on synthetic oil and it WILL break-in completely, might take another hour or two but no problem. Do you think companies like Stihl, Echo, Husky, Poulan,and Homelite, don't know what they are doing? They include fully synthetic oil with their equipment when purchased new in the box with instructions to use fully synthetic oil from day one and forever. I've been doing it for many years, you telling ME my engine have never broken in?
ORIGINAL: Razor Hobbies
In reference to a previous post i made. After being told for so long that it was ok to break in an engine on synthetic. I am finally getting valuable information. It is important break in your engine with an oil such as lawnboy or so on. If you use a full synthetic during break in it does not alow the engine to fully break in. My bad im glad at least i know now.
In reference to a previous post i made. After being told for so long that it was ok to break in an engine on synthetic. I am finally getting valuable information. It is important break in your engine with an oil such as lawnboy or so on. If you use a full synthetic during break in it does not alow the engine to fully break in. My bad im glad at least i know now.
Totally not true, nothing wrong with breaking an engine in on synthetic oil and it WILL break-in completely, might take another hour or two but no problem. Do you think companies like Stihl, Echo, Husky, Poulan,and Homelite, don't know what they are doing? They include fully synthetic oil with their equipment when purchased new in the box with instructions to use fully synthetic oil from day one and forever. I've been doing it for many years, you telling ME my engine have never broken in?
Thanks for clearing that up for me. See also based my finding from tearing apart engines too. They looked broke in when i took them apart but i started to doubt my self after having a few people start telling me the same exact same thing.
But im sticking with it Synthetic for Break-In.
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
HI TOM ... i would like to ask a question ..
from your experience ... what is the gold line of oil mix ratio / for synthetic ?? 40:1 45:1 or 50 :1
also about bellray .. hr1 that is not good 50:1 /... so it can work better in 45:1 or 40 :1 ??
also /// MY NEW ENGINE MLD 35 in the manual says / only for 45: 1 oil ratio... and i am thinking to stay in 40 :1 oil synthetic after braking/// i have 2 choice for oil ///
stihl ultra bellray hr1 and maybe motul //( i know motul is top ..oil ..)
what is your opinion???
thank you
from your experience ... what is the gold line of oil mix ratio / for synthetic ?? 40:1 45:1 or 50 :1
also about bellray .. hr1 that is not good 50:1 /... so it can work better in 45:1 or 40 :1 ??
also /// MY NEW ENGINE MLD 35 in the manual says / only for 45: 1 oil ratio... and i am thinking to stay in 40 :1 oil synthetic after braking/// i have 2 choice for oil ///
stihl ultra bellray hr1 and maybe motul //( i know motul is top ..oil ..)
what is your opinion???
thank you
#91
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RE: Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
One can always use more oil, just adjust the carb accordingly. People can also use less oil but they have to accept the consequences of their actions. Those consequences generally will not become evident over night, but they will become evident. One consequence of too little oil will show up almost immediately, and that's making less power. Poor ring seal combined with too much heat and an engine sags.
The Bel Ray oils do ok if you use enough of it, but hey become "dirty" oils when an engine runs hot. Avoid MC-1 if possible since other oils are much cleaner. Ratio itself depends a lot on the quality of the engine. The metalurgy and machine work in some engines require that large amounts of oil be used to overcome manufacturing deficiencies. You have one of them so stay with the 45-1 suggestion. You can use more, but I would not use less.
Oil quality also plays into things. The best oil I've run through engines to date is Stihl HP Ultra. Redline two stroke racing oil comes in second, with Motul 800 neck and neck with Redline. Echo is another great synthetic. That covers the synthetics. For minerals you have oils like Pennzoil and Stihl. You don't use low oil ratios with minerals since they do not work as well when engines start running hotter. Either of your two available products is a good choice.
To loosely answer the ratio question, it depends. Somewhere between 20 and 50-1, depending on the oil and the engine. If you're running engines like DA, BME, ZDZ, MVVS, 3W, Mintor, Taurus, Brillelli, Brison, Zenoah, DLE, and a few other well made engines, do 50-1 with a good synthetic. With a mineral go 32-1. If you are running a small bore engine like a 20cc, then 32-1 is the leanest you should go, even with a synthetic. They are high revving and require more oil. For the rest of the alphabet soup engines consider 32-1 for the best longevity.
The Bel Ray oils do ok if you use enough of it, but hey become "dirty" oils when an engine runs hot. Avoid MC-1 if possible since other oils are much cleaner. Ratio itself depends a lot on the quality of the engine. The metalurgy and machine work in some engines require that large amounts of oil be used to overcome manufacturing deficiencies. You have one of them so stay with the 45-1 suggestion. You can use more, but I would not use less.
Oil quality also plays into things. The best oil I've run through engines to date is Stihl HP Ultra. Redline two stroke racing oil comes in second, with Motul 800 neck and neck with Redline. Echo is another great synthetic. That covers the synthetics. For minerals you have oils like Pennzoil and Stihl. You don't use low oil ratios with minerals since they do not work as well when engines start running hotter. Either of your two available products is a good choice.
To loosely answer the ratio question, it depends. Somewhere between 20 and 50-1, depending on the oil and the engine. If you're running engines like DA, BME, ZDZ, MVVS, 3W, Mintor, Taurus, Brillelli, Brison, Zenoah, DLE, and a few other well made engines, do 50-1 with a good synthetic. With a mineral go 32-1. If you are running a small bore engine like a 20cc, then 32-1 is the leanest you should go, even with a synthetic. They are high revving and require more oil. For the rest of the alphabet soup engines consider 32-1 for the best longevity.
#92
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I use amsoil sabre, as do most of the guys I know..80:1..we have never had an engine failure due to oil. However I have seen engine failures with 32:1 synthetics..just saying use what works for you. I go by the advice of my motor man who is probably more experience than 10 guys put together. AMSOIL an AMSOIL only for me
#93
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I'm with Captin on this one,run the recommended and use any good oil /flavor you can get that's easy and local. Motor oil is motor oil.
#97
Here in the middle of rice and soy bean farming country in Thailand, there are thousands of 2 stroke weed-eater type cutters in use within a few miles of me, all with solid blades. The farmers are as poor as dirt so they can not afford a damaged engine. In talking with them, they ALL use a ratio between 30 and 40 to 1. Most are in the 32-to-1 camp and not a single farmer uses 50-to-one. I am sticking with 32-to-1 because, as an other poster said, oil makes or breaks an engine!
#99
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Why worry about a 4 year old thread being posted on, instead worry about why our leaders ( or should I suggest "so called leaders") allowed the undocumented illegals into the country bringing measles back. Some people have way too much time on their keyboards!