Oil mix ratio for DLE engines
02-15-2015, 11:24 AM
#103
Oh man. For whatever reason I resist and resist these oil threads, and then finally have to make a comment. Ok, here goes. This is just what I do and it works fantastic for me.
Pennzoil for Air Cooled Engines or Shell Aerosport 2
15 to 25cc engines 20:1
25cc and up 32:1
I do prefer to break in engines with dino oil, just because they seem to break in faster.
Redline Racing Oil
32:1 under 50cc
40:1 over 50cc
I've seen Amsoil work well at 50:1 in large (400cc plus) engines, and indeed I have many hours flying (instructing) using it in Ultralight Airplanes. But it has a horrible reputation in our small engines. Many tests show less than desirable wear characteristics and hard carbon build up in model airplane engines using AMSOIL.
Numerous tests I've read show MORE power with more oil, not less. Carbon build up sometimes works in reverse, with more oil often actually causing less carbon due I believe to lowered operating temps. In any case, an engine with some carbon can be cleaned, an engine that has seized can be junked..... Just remember, if you are seeing carbon build up on your spark plug, pull the muffler off and have a look at the rings to see if they are getting carboned up. If so, they must be cleaned as a carbon frozen ring can cause a seizure and of course, a loss in power. Periodically pulling the muffler off and inspecting the rings is a standard inspection item on Ultralight Planes, and a good idea on any two stroke from time to time.
I'm done,
AV8TOR
P.S. Love the Koala Bear and the "Wabbit" eating ice cream!
Pennzoil for Air Cooled Engines or Shell Aerosport 2
15 to 25cc engines 20:1
25cc and up 32:1
I do prefer to break in engines with dino oil, just because they seem to break in faster.
Redline Racing Oil
32:1 under 50cc
40:1 over 50cc
I've seen Amsoil work well at 50:1 in large (400cc plus) engines, and indeed I have many hours flying (instructing) using it in Ultralight Airplanes. But it has a horrible reputation in our small engines. Many tests show less than desirable wear characteristics and hard carbon build up in model airplane engines using AMSOIL.
Numerous tests I've read show MORE power with more oil, not less. Carbon build up sometimes works in reverse, with more oil often actually causing less carbon due I believe to lowered operating temps. In any case, an engine with some carbon can be cleaned, an engine that has seized can be junked..... Just remember, if you are seeing carbon build up on your spark plug, pull the muffler off and have a look at the rings to see if they are getting carboned up. If so, they must be cleaned as a carbon frozen ring can cause a seizure and of course, a loss in power. Periodically pulling the muffler off and inspecting the rings is a standard inspection item on Ultralight Planes, and a good idea on any two stroke from time to time.
I'm done,
AV8TOR
P.S. Love the Koala Bear and the "Wabbit" eating ice cream!
Last edited by av8tor1977; 02-15-2015 at 11:45 AM.
02-15-2015, 11:35 AM
#104
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Richard
02-15-2015, 11:52 AM
#105
My Feedback: (19)
av8tor, thanks for the good common sense info.
Regarding more oil compared to less, I've seen additional oil in the mix completely remove the carbon from the top of a piston. Seems to have a scouring effect from the incoming fuel / air charge.
It seems that so many people think that less oil in the mix is a substitute for poor tuning. Others think more oil is a substitute for proper cooling airflow. One line of thought is as bad as the other. Oh well .....
Regarding more oil compared to less, I've seen additional oil in the mix completely remove the carbon from the top of a piston. Seems to have a scouring effect from the incoming fuel / air charge.
It seems that so many people think that less oil in the mix is a substitute for poor tuning. Others think more oil is a substitute for proper cooling airflow. One line of thought is as bad as the other. Oh well .....
02-16-2015, 01:55 AM
#106
I use Pennzoil air cooled 2T oil at 32:1 in all my 30CC and greater two strokes model airplanes, chainsaws, & weed whackers. Never had any trouble using it.
In the smaller engines I use Pennzoil at 20:1. No trouble with the DLE 20 or Saito FG engines.
Outboard Johnson & Evinrude two strokes, I've run 24:1 for 60 years mostly Pennzoil Outboard after they started making it.
In the smaller engines I use Pennzoil at 20:1. No trouble with the DLE 20 or Saito FG engines.
Outboard Johnson & Evinrude two strokes, I've run 24:1 for 60 years mostly Pennzoil Outboard after they started making it.
02-16-2015, 12:08 PM
#107
av8tor, thanks for the good common sense info.
Regarding more oil compared to less, I've seen additional oil in the mix completely remove the carbon from the top of a piston. Seems to have a scouring effect from the incoming fuel / air charge.
It seems that so many people think that less oil in the mix is a substitute for poor tuning. Others think more oil is a substitute for proper cooling airflow. One line of thought is as bad as the other. Oh well .....
Regarding more oil compared to less, I've seen additional oil in the mix completely remove the carbon from the top of a piston. Seems to have a scouring effect from the incoming fuel / air charge.
It seems that so many people think that less oil in the mix is a substitute for poor tuning. Others think more oil is a substitute for proper cooling airflow. One line of thought is as bad as the other. Oh well .....
1. Good high quality oil at a reasonable ratio
2. Good cooling
3. Proper tuning - No Lean Runs!
If you respect those three items, you will have great success with the simplest and highest power to weight ratio engines there are; the modern two stroke.
Note that proper ignition timing is a necessary given, and would be included with "Proper Tuning".
AV8TOR
03-15-2015, 06:15 PM
#108
Does anyone know of the thread on this site or any other site that showed the guts of a gas engine after a LOT of hours of running? I saw it, so I know it is out there....it was their 'proof' their oil was the best as it also showed the same size engine using different oils.
Thanks in advance....
Jerry
Thanks in advance....
Jerry
03-15-2015, 08:25 PM
#112
Recently I pulled the jugs off my twin BME to see the condition of the internal parts, this engine is about 8 years old, it was flown a lot in Spitfire before the GeeBee Y according to the previous owner ( my friend ) the piston and everything in there were clean like the piston on the video, he was mixing the gas 50:1, I'm running it now @ 30:1 and getting higher rpms because of the added oil.
03-16-2015, 05:32 AM
#113
- Does anyone know of the thread on this site or any other site that showed the guts of a gas engine after a LOT of hours of running? I saw it, so I know it is out there....it was their 'proof' their oil was the best as it also showed the same size engine using different oils.
Thanks in advance....
Jerry
Take a look at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oiltest.htm
They compare 4 types of 2 stroke oil using 4 brand new Rotax 503 engines. A very meaningful test for most ultralight owners - Also look at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oilworks.htm
Sorry, I forgot where I got the info, obviously an Ultralight site.
Sincerely, Richard
03-17-2015, 06:26 AM
#114
Take a look at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oiltest.htm
They compare 4 types of 2 stroke oil using 4 brand new Rotax 503 engines. A very meaningful test for most ultralight owners- Also look at
http://www.ultralightnews.com/features/oilworks.htm
Sorry, I forgot where I got the info, obviously an Ultralight site.
Sincerely, Richard
I hate it when that happens.... 
Anyway, I am an "ultralight guy" and as such have known about those tests for years. It was a very exhaustive and apparently well run test. But for years I've wondered what brands the "Conventional Petroleum 2 Cycle Oil" and what the "2 Cycle Synthetic Oil" were. They didn't want to have a "brand war" I guess, and didn't state what they were, but I sure would like to know.
AV8TOR
07-29-2021, 07:15 PM
#115
When I was a kid, my family had a Jacobson 2 cycle lawn mower. My dad would say, "put about 2 glugs of regular motor oil in with the gallon of gas" we had. No accurate measurement, no special oil, just some leftover motor oil we had. Man did that thing carbon up. The darn thing ran poorly, was a bear to keep running, I just about hated it. The beginning of my small engine knowledge base. Now I have a DLE 35 ra. I want to treat it right. Thanks guys, I get it. I've read the manufacturers suggestion and I see what's being used. Got it.
07-29-2021, 08:57 PM
#116
My Feedback: (19)
RedLine racing oil mixed at 32:1 to 40:1 with 93 octane non-ethanol pump gas is hard to beat. It cleans rather than carbons up an engine, is available at many local or online sources at acceptable prices, etc. it just works.
Several other very good oils such as Stihl Ultra and Motul depending where you are located. But after using several different oils over the years, I see no reason to switch away from RedLine. I buy by the case of 16oz (I think) bottles on Amazon and the per oz. cost is cheaper than buying the gallon jugs.
Several other very good oils such as Stihl Ultra and Motul depending where you are located. But after using several different oils over the years, I see no reason to switch away from RedLine. I buy by the case of 16oz (I think) bottles on Amazon and the per oz. cost is cheaper than buying the gallon jugs.
Last edited by Truckracer; 07-29-2021 at 09:01 PM.
