MetallicaJunkie

[:'(][sm=thumbs_down.gif]

captinjohn

Better to use a JR servo in this instance. The JR servos rotate backwards relative to Hitec or Futaba servos. Works great. The other choice would be a high dollar programmable servo....

<hr />Av8tor, I have quite a few JR servos. They all rotate the same as Futaba....except the 506 I have. The 505 and the others rotates like most all other servos. I went to the Hitec web-site and they have about 4 -6 that you can oder...it says reverse on them. Too match power and speed...the "Y" with a reverser with a trim screw seems OK. I hope. Also I hope EMS is a good brand. Capt,n

edwal07

I have ignition kills on all my gassers. I like the confidence that "I" can kill the engine at any point in the flight, and if the receiver battery dies the engine dies also. And yes I have had the chance to use it on a couple occasions. I as another poster replied lined it up with the runway and killed the motor, no harm no foul. I have also witnessed the kill switch in action when a rudder servo failed on takeoff, killing the engine prevented it from returning toward the flight line and minimized damage to the aircraft. It is so nice to be able to stand back from the aircraft and kill the engine. I use it on my gear switch on my DX7, forward is on, back toward me is off, easy to get to and right near my throttle hand. Using it does not mean you are "afraid, dangerous, or not safety concious". I feel it is a good idea and a good tool for the RC hobby. If you like pushing the envelope, go ahead, I perfer knowing I have control, and a command of the situation when something does go wrong or I am not comfortable in a worsening situation. 42% Products have worked great for me,on electronic and magneto engines.

Choose whatever you are comfortable with! However safety is paramount, where injury and human life are concerned!

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Ed, I sent you a PM. Dan.

DaleD

Hi,

Just finally managed to read through the entire thread, so done with great interest. Relatively new to gas engines so all too happy to soak up the cumulative experience available. Based on my current skill level and personal interest in the hobby, I don't see myself venturing into 3D flying right now and as such have turned focus to IMAC type flying. I am therefore particularly keen to get a feel for what servo(s) would recommended for 50cc size model that will be sufficient for the type of flying I will be doing. I have seen what I consider general recommendations, however, would anyone be willing to say whether or not I should go for digital metal gear or would analogue metal gear be sufficient.

Thanks

Dale

zx32tt

My Feedback: (9)

my suggestion to DaleD, is to buy the best you can afford. Currently for me, that is the Hitec 7955's & 7950's. I would strongly reccomend using metal gear servo's on all flying surfaces on anything gas powered. Servo's are an investment, and yes, I can tell the differance between digitals and analog, fast servo's and slow ones.
zx32tt

juanes1969

Airwildhobbies.com sells the right servo output shaft socket head screw for hitec and JR servos.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Dale, if you can see yourself positioning to go into competition, or even if you demand of yourself that level of flying precision, I'd go digital. I'll never go there, that's why I say they just aren't necessary - not to go and just have some fun while trying to maintain some sort of budget anyway. Just me...

DaleD

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

After reading this thread for a few days let me comment on a recent experience I had. I have a 4*120 with a DLE 30 on it. I was flying it with Nylon gear JR servos. These were digitals. It had an aileron to fllutter form stripped gears. So after a few repairs (new fuse) I put in Hitec 645mg servos in it. I read no loc tite and to loc tite, silicone just the star washer. Well today I went out to remaiden. While on the second flite I experienced another servo failure. after a fight and some praying I managed to get it on the ground in one peice. After looking it over I saw that one of the screws holding the aileron servo arm on had come un screwed just enough for the servo arm to come loose. So I highly suggest that if you use metal gears to put something on them to keep them in place!
Alan

captinjohn

Thanks for the heads up on the screw getting loose. I will be carefull to make sure this does not happen to my airplane.

I was wondering if you may be flying at the speeds or RPM,s where the engine shows it worst viabration level? It seems like various engines have a "bad RPM levels & that RPM should be avoided. Then there is the prevention of control surface flutter that has to be aware of. Lots to learn in this good ole Hobby! Capt,n

bgfireman

My Feedback: (13)

Captain,
My DLE had 5 flights on it. So my speed fluctuates. I did notice that at idle it shakes quite a bit.
Alan

summerwind

well the Futaba 9551's are some very strong and precise servos. so my use for them will be elevator and rudder, then 9202's on the ailerons and the throttle.

seeing in another thread that ignition interference can be an issue, is there any set distance from engine that the servos need to be?

these are going into a ww1 craft so up front and close to the firewall is going to be mandatory.

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

It's always 12 inches. Dan.

summerwind

Dan,

thank you for the info.
guess i'll be putting the buggers back a bit further than planned

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Ed Waldrop are you still listening,
I don't want to clog up summerwinds' thread with our missives but keep three things in mind about RFI;
1. Conduction
2. Radiation
3. Just because you have survived an installation, it does not mean it's right. All you need is the planets to be aligned right and you'll go right in.
Thanks for all the emails. Dan.

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

No, it's not always 12". I don't belive I've set up a plane in the last 5 years with a throttle servo more than 5" away from the engine and ignition. Some throttle servos are mounted ON the engine. Typical distance from the receiver or receiver batteries has been anywhere from 14" to 0". Yep, that's a zero.

Simply set everything up right, use good equipment, and perform the requisite range checks like you're supposed to.

edwal07

Yes Dan I read your post. And Pat for once you and I are in agreement! Dan had chastized me about using 42% Products Kill Switchs on my aircraft, violated the rule of "12", and that I should use only the Optic Switch by Smart Fly. Well Dan here is an email I received from Ken Anderson of 42% Products that I requested. I wanted to be as much informed and correct about my choice of switches, so here it is.

RE: OPTOKILLSWITCH

The fact is that we use Opto isolators for the front end radio signal that isolates all of the radio signal .<o></o>

A guy could understand it like this the radio section is turned into a Light beam and is transmitted to the Ignition side once received the light <o></o>

Is converted back into a pulse stream for the Ignition side of the unit that have a Filter cap and a very fast small signal diode to Block any noise and sent to a Mos-FET to turn the Ignition on and off .<o></o>

The fact is even if the ignition was flooding noise and anything else it has no way to “JUMP” into the radio side since it is Light that is transmit source of the on/off action .<o></o>

The noise would have to turn into light get inside a sealed device and then start transmitting the noise !<o></o>

Impossible it’s just like Smart FLY they use a 2 Pc system we use 1 unit a TX and a RX all on 1 Pcb it is in fact the exact same way smart fly does his unit.<o></o>

<o></o>It’s like this he has a TX unit then it has the light TX’d to the RX side of his unit .<o></o>

Think of ours like the TOP being the TX and the bottom is the RX same way he does his only ours is a single TX /RX system.<o></o>

<o></o>The White module on the Top is the Opto isolator we use it is where the Light goes from Tx to RX .<o></o>

<o></o>Thanks for emailing me and keep me posted .<o></o>

<o></o>We have less than 50 returns on over 65000 units sold and have no issues with them in any way .<o></o>

There are a lot of hatters out there that hate to see anybody but them survive <o></o>

<o></o>Ken Anderson

So there it is. I have not violated any rule, instruction, or self-defined theory. I use ferrite coil and block noise filters and twisted servo extensions to prevent noise in other areas: ie..throttle and choke servos, and any extension over 18". It works, I have not had one problem with noise in any of my planes before or during a flight, it is my choice. Attention to detail and setup procedures pluspre-flight testing at all throttle ranges is imperitive before a plane takes flight.I personally have not seen any failures of this product but you can be assured I will continue to use them until proven otherwise. I am planning on using their Blue Board power system in my next plane along with the kill switch. Like I stated, I am very safety concious and do everything in my control to be safe. I like the feeling of being able to shut down my engine on a moments notice and not haveing to wait for it to run out of gas. My choice. End of discussion.
And Pat thanks, we agree at least on a couple things.
Ed Waldrop

Sorry guys I didn't mean to write a book!

captinjohn

Alan, try not to run it very long at all in the shake mode. It should smooth out in time somewhat. Too rich on idle can make shake worse too.

How about the airplane you have the DLE on....is it a plane designed for what you are doing with it? That may not be the correct wording!!!! Not meant to offend you...just wondering. Best Regards capt,n

All Day Dan

My Feedback: (5)

Ed, I sent you a PM. Dan.

edwal07

Got it! Sent you a reply! Still sticking to my guns!
Everyone have a nice one, I am outta here!