bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

I read where you had cut out a good portion of the firewall? or nose of the Big Stik? you installed the DLE20 on. I know your post is over a year old but I would like to see how you mounted your DLE20 engine. Also, how did you mount the fuel tank over the CG?

If you don't wish to post pictures on here perhaps you could send them to [email protected]

I would appreciate any help you can give me. Tom Harper

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Here is what I did...

Ernie Misner

Wow, what a clean and nice looking instalation! Anyone have a clue why the directions from VV with my 20cc say not to use a soft mount with a gas engine?

<Edit> .... just saw some soft mount info in earlier posts..... thanks. (post 1411)

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Not going into good or bad one way or the other. As I'm pretty sure they're heavier than a standard beam mount, they loose my interest at that point. Beyond that, from what I've read to date regarding them, there's been mixed results using the Dubro mount - to the point some have broken them (without hitting anything).

tande

My Feedback: (48)

.......usually the "Argument" has to do with muffler integrity issues.......FWIW....

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay ahicks,
Your right, I did have one Du-Bro 1.20 size Vibra Mount crack and Du-Bro replaced the cracked mount with out question. Now I've also heard that using anti vibration mounts on 2 cycle gas engines is not recommended. This .60~.90 size Big Stick, was my first gas engine model. I've flown nitro for over 50 years, so on a learning curve here, with gas engines. If I ever build another Big Stick...and I know I will...I will not use a Du-Bro anti vibration mount, but engine supplied plastic solid engine mount.

The .60~.90 Big Stick needs a few mods for gas engine use. You will need to beef up the tail section, before you epoxy on your tail feathers. I used 1/64" quality plywood...and on my next Big Stick, I'll use 3/32 aircraft plywood (not light ply) on my tail section, from the tail end forward, to 4 inches forward of the leading edge of the stabilizer. If you don't beef this area up...on all four sides...you will lose your tail feathers in flight and crash.

I also mounted my rudder and elevator servo's as far aft as I could, and built a solid light ply platform to screw servos into. I also mounted two 2300ma batteries as far aft as I could in the fuselage (one for the receiver and one for the ignition module), made a plywood hatch cover for the batteries and mounted the batteries to the hatch cover with Ty-Raps. I also made a nose area hatch cover for my model and this made stuffing the ignition box, engine throttle servo, on/off miracle switch and RPM gauge an easy affair.

The .60~.90 Big Stick builds nose heavy, with a 20cc class gas engine-stuff as much as you can in the tail.

I also made mine a tail dragger and I used the larger Big Stick (Gas Engine Version) main landing gear too (cost less then $20.00 at Tower Hobbies). The stock landing gear for the .60~.90 size Big Stick, will not give you enough prop clearance, or is strong enough to handle the weight of the gas engine.

I ended up using 16x8 two bladed Master Air Screw Scimitar and Oxar 17x6 two bladed wood props on my .60~.90 size Big Stick. I used the RCG 20cc gas engine in my Big Stick and I've great things to say about this little jewel of an engine. It out performs the DLE 20 hands down and I had unlimited vertical with my Big Stick. My Big Stick cam out to just over 9 lbs. Gross Weight.

The .60~.90 Big Stick with a 20cc gas engine is a real floater...it will glide for ever and with 1000 sq. inches of main wing...a gliding fool. Since this was my first gas engine model, I learned about tuning my gas engine carbs on this model. I must have had 20 dead stick landings on my Big Stick, until I found out how to tune my gas engine carburetor. I also side mounted my gas engine and made a small exhaust exit out of 1/2" copper pipe.

I did not beef up my fire wall...but I did coat every thing from the nose to the center of the fuselage with thinned Epoxy/Alcohol mix. Fuel proof every thing forward of the fuselage's wing saddle and inside the wing saddle too, I did.

I hope this helps some...

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

Ernie Misner

What did you learn about tuning the gasser carb?

ffdez

Tom,

Here are 4 pictures of my Value Hobby Easy Stick .60 with a 20cc gasser. I did reinforce tail/elevator sections, main gear, wing attachment and firewall. Used GP Giant Big Stick Main Landing Gear for good prop clearance. Tank mounted on a balsa tray on CG.

Francis

stevegauth30

that stick looks like a blast to fly.nice.

Ernie Misner

Nice job on the stick Francis. Very clean. Looks like you've added some tri-stock for the stab and fin. My old sticks used to crack on the fuse sides right in front of the stab. What about adding some real thin ply in that area on the fuse sides and bottom?

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your photos and time and patience to upload the photos and everything!! You are amazing to me; you don't know me from Adam. Thank you so very much!! Can I ask how you reinforce balsa sides near the tail to place the servos there? Glue spruce or light ply trays inside the fuse? Thanks again for your advice and great photos!!

ffdez

Tom,

Light ply with 30min epoxy for top wing and 1/2" balsa for rubber/elevator.

Francis

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

I don't understand your last line about 1/2 in. balsa for rudder and elevator? I am thinking to use light ply for rudder and elevator servos since I will be putting them in the back on the fuse sides plus I figure to be able to use the weight and then some.

Thanks, Tom

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Great and timely info! Thanks!

Tom Harper

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Great and timely info! Thanks!

Tom Harper

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

What is light ply for top wing? I don't understand. not a big deal but curious? You have much humidity in Hawaii?

ffdez

Tom,

Light ply for the area of nut's thread that attach the wing bolts. For the ele/rudder servos, light ply also. 1/2" Balsa is for reinforce the rudder fin and horizontal stab.

Francis

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Great photos! Do you have to add weight to the left side to offset the weight of the head to the right side? Maybe I should say, does it balance laterally without extra weights? this is the exact same ARF I am bashing but thinking to leave the head down. Do you use larger wheels than the stock ones? Someone suggested using landing gear from the next larger Ultra Stik and the wheels that come with that larger plane?

Tom Harper

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

How did you reinforce the firewall? Double the firewall thickness or ply reinforcement on the sides of balsa holding the firewall? Also, how to reinforce main wing saddle area? - ply on sides under wing or to the plate where the nylon bolts screw in?

Thanks very much!

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks! How funny it was to click on wing bolts and be taken to RTL fasteners; I buy stuff from them all the time! They are only about 50 miles south of here.

Tom

ffdez

Ply reinforcement behind firewall. The plate that nylon bolts screw in.

Bob Paris

My Feedback: (13)

Hay Bigtj10,
No I didn't add any wing tip weight to the model and I set my RCG 20cc engine on its side, so if I ever had a hard landing...I would not destroy the top of my engine. With my engine on its side...its hard to flood the engine and my muffler extension was made out of 1/2" copper tubing and 90 deg. elbow.

Yes...I ordered the landing gear from the largest Big Stick and used in on my .60~.90 Big Stick. I also used larger wheels and didn't use the kit supplied wheels. I used Robart Wheels...larger then that came in the kit, with the foam inserts. I love Robart wheels, for they grip well on hard surfaced runways and that's what I fly off of.

I didn't reinforce my fire wall...just coated everything aft of the fire wall with thinned epoxy for fuel proofing and strength.

NOTE: My Big Stick ARF fuselage was made out of balsa that was, in my opinion, not hard enough-to soft. The tail of my ARF cracked almost all around fuselage and would have lost the model if I didn't find the issue-hence, my adding 1/64th ply onto my tail section. It cracked on my first runs of the engine, prior to my first flight.

This Ugly Stick with a 20cc engine will come out at under 9 lbs. and the model will have unlimited vertical performance. Its also a gliding fool and easy to land, dead stick.

Soft Landings Always,
Bobby of Maui

bigtj10

My Feedback: (1)

Well, we only fly off grass strips so not as concerned about bashing the top of the engine; the larger concern is finding it in the tall corn now present; two years corn, two years beans which we all love; and when in wheat, soft landings even when you crash, almost, if you can flare it before landing! Same with the wheels, not a concern since I would be afraid of hard surfaced landings; I am very respectful of your AMA number; You have been at this sport awhile! Hats off to you sir!

Have you had any experience with the Twist from JR? It has fat wings like an Uproar from Tower only it has a G26 Zenoah, 1.55 cu. in. size engine; once again larger than the Uproar.
The Uproar is kind of short coupled and a bit twitchy for an old fellow like me with a .46 size glow engine;

I like the part where you say this Stik is a gliding fool; have you ever programmed flaps for it on your radio? Would they slow it faster? Bring it down a little more where you wanted it to land?

I need to check out those Robart wheels; I could use some tundra tires!

Tom

thatairplaneguy

My Feedback: (50)

Paul Swany Mojo65"

No mods. Bolts right on.

Ernie Misner

For extra strength on your firewalls you can also "pin" them in place using a couple of servo screws on all four sides.