BOB275

Got the DLE30 out of storage and hook up a 8 oz tank and got it running and tuned up fine.
Ready to fly, so I grab the 12 oz tank and I could not get fuel to the DLE30! No leaks in tank/pressurize it. NEW!
Going from an 8 oz tank to 12 oz, what happen? I thought the Walbro carb wasn't sucking/pumping the fuel up.
Change out the blue screen to a beige one and the fuel pump diaphragm.
Any one had a problem like this and a solution????? Bob

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

Are you sure it's fuel and not spark causing your issue? What happens when you prime it?

BOB275

NO PROBLEM WITH spark. We installed a spinner and used the electric starter and it started right up. Hand priming it is not pumping the fuel fast enough.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Getting fuel to the engine is more a function of how well the choke works than the pump. After the engine starts the pump will provide the necessary fuel volume and pressure to keep the engine running. I'd make sure the choke plate is fully closed and if it is even a tiny bit open, its not a choke. If both fuel tanks are in good condition, there should be zero difference between your two fuel tank sizes so that should be a non issue. Reeds can also cause starting problems and you can check them simply by removing the spark plug and confirming the engine has normal port bypass operation when the engine is cranked. Certainly a visual inspection can't hurt anything if you suspect there is a problem. People make way too much out of whether reeds seal completely when they are at rest. It is normal for an in service reed to hang open slightly yet they can work properly with normal airflow / crankcase differential pressure.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

And speaking of chokes, there's an outside chance that the choke plate isn't centered in the barrel properly. Can happen right from new, or it's not unheard of for the single screw that hold it in place to loosen slightly, causing the plate to rattle itself off center.

Too, some will poo poo the idea of soldering the hole in the choke plate shut. It does help.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

I've soldered the hole in the choke plate shut on some of my smaller engines and in a few cases it worked too well resulting in over choking. My best solution has been to solder the hole shut then redrill a much smaller hole through the solder until a compromise size is found. 1/16" usually works pretty well.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

Remove the inlet needle diaghragm cover and check the playability of the diaphragm and check the inlet needle . It may be stuck closed. If the needle won't open all the choking in the world won't help

BOB275

We have taken the carb off the plane and again inspect it, the choke, diaphrams, etc and had a flying buddy with a gas plane double check it.
Had to put a hold on this as the holiday and wx took up time. Later i'll get back to it.
I do thank you for your tips.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Have you checked the screen inside the carb? Sometimes they can get a sort of clear coating on them that won't easily pass fuel. Almost impossible to clean, replacement is the normal fix and a new screen comes with every carb kit.

ZENGSM62

Had a zenoah g26 that was sitting for about 7 years, did the same thing.
Diaphram had got hard and was no longer working, took one out of a different carb, works very well now.
As a note, if it is possible always use gasoline with out alcohol, i use what is called rec premium in my area, i use it in all my small engines, rc, chainsaws, snowblower, outboard, snowmobile when possible.
Gsm

BOB275

WHAT I finally did is get an electric starter and that got the gas up to the carb and since then it always start. Thanks to every one for your help. Bob

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

The hole in the choke plate serves no useful purpose in RC. For easier priming, getting that initial shot of fuel up to the carb, many have soldered that hole shut. End of problem - assuming everything else is in order.