remote kill switches
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: marion,
IL
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
remote kill switches
i'm new to gas airplanes i'm use to nitros and i'd like to know about remote kill switches are they needed how do they work and whats the best but affordable switches
#3
My Feedback: (5)
RE: remote kill switches
It's a real good safety device. Hopefully, you'll never have to use it. Here's the best one. It gives you the isolation you will need.
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm
Read this.
http://www.rcaer.com/userfiles/file/...20Aircraft.pdf
And this.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#8673009
Dan.
http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Ignition/ignition.htm
Read this.
http://www.rcaer.com/userfiles/file/...20Aircraft.pdf
And this.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_86...tm.htm#8673009
Dan.
#4
RE: remote kill switches
this one is reaqlly easy to set up... i have it set to a slider switch on my transmitter.... it has a really bright LED to let you know ignition is "armed" I also have the added benefit of a switch, just incase. Even if i leave the ignition switch on, which has happened by accident the ignition will not be armed provided i didnt leave my Tx on with ignition engaged... and in the event of a fail safe moment i have it set to kill the ignition to play it safer
*edit* the green led is on a switch.. and the bright blue led is the one that comes with the 42% products ignition kill
*edit* the green led is on a switch.. and the bright blue led is the one that comes with the 42% products ignition kill
#5
My Feedback: (1)
RE: remote kill switches
I have had good luck with this one. http://valleyviewrc.com/42-Percent%2...l%20Switch.htm
One of the things I like about these is you can test to see if you are getting spark by toggling the switch on your transmitter. You can hear the plug spark. Then you know for sure you have ignition.
A switch must be used otherwise this unit will drain your battery.
One of the things I like about these is you can test to see if you are getting spark by toggling the switch on your transmitter. You can hear the plug spark. Then you know for sure you have ignition.
A switch must be used otherwise this unit will drain your battery.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (2)
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: marion,
IL
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: remote kill switches
thanks i just have a cessna nothing big i put a switch to kill the battery i just didn't if i needed the remote switch because i see it so much i wanted to see if it was needed i'm probly still going to get one just for added safety since its my first gas plane i want it to be as safe and user friendly as possible
#7
RE: remote kill switches
I've got a small Great Planes kill switch under the cowl of my Giant Super Sportster and a remote operated micro kill switch on a tx switch. The servo wheel is a cam that pushes the switch when triggered. Iset all my transmitters the same. The left switch above the throttle is low idle and the right switch is engine kill. Same for glow or gas (glow is just needle valve adjustment).
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cape Town, SOUTH AFRICA
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
#9
My Feedback: (11)
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: TimBle
Is this a good practise though. a failed throttle servo and with the throttle retur spring removed means the gasser is going to be flying for a long time.
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
Here's the ones I use
http://www.planeaddicts.com/store/ag...ics&user4=Kill Switches&xm=on
#11
My Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Pullman,
WA
Posts: 2,221
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: remote kill switches
I just ordered two of the RCXCell switches from Valleyview. I have had issues with the engine not wanting to quit even when the throttle is completely closed. I found a Walbro tuning page which stated that if the carb is properly tuned it may not shut the motor off due to the type of carburetor (air bleed). While that may or may not be completely accurate I do know that when my DLE 55 and 30 are tuned so that four-cycling is minimized and transition is smooth, the throttle will not reliably stop the motor. I am going to activate mine with the same switch on the Tx that I use for Throttle Hold for helis.
Sam
Sam
#12
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: DaddySam
I just ordered two of the RCXCell switches from Valleyview. I have had issues with the engine not wanting to quit even when the throttle is completely closed. I found a Walbro tuning page which stated that if the carb is properly tuned it may not shut the motor off due to the type of carburetor (air bleed). While that may or may not be completely accurate I do know that when my DLE 55 and 30 are tuned so that four-cycling is minimized and transition is smooth, the throttle will not reliably stop the motor. I am going to activate mine with the same switch on the Tx that I use for Throttle Hold for helis.
Sam
I just ordered two of the RCXCell switches from Valleyview. I have had issues with the engine not wanting to quit even when the throttle is completely closed. I found a Walbro tuning page which stated that if the carb is properly tuned it may not shut the motor off due to the type of carburetor (air bleed). While that may or may not be completely accurate I do know that when my DLE 55 and 30 are tuned so that four-cycling is minimized and transition is smooth, the throttle will not reliably stop the motor. I am going to activate mine with the same switch on the Tx that I use for Throttle Hold for helis.
Sam
Regards, Richard
#13
My Feedback: (11)
RE: remote kill switches
Are you sure the idle stop screw isn't installed and preventing you from fully closing the throttle?
I've never had to cover the hole to either kill with throttle or choke the engine.
I always kind of figured the boys at Walboro knew more about carbs than I do
I've never had to cover the hole to either kill with throttle or choke the engine.
I always kind of figured the boys at Walboro knew more about carbs than I do
#14
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: BarracudaHockey
Are you sure the idle stop screw isn't installed and preventing you from fully closing the throttle?
I've never had to cover the hole to either kill with throttle or choke the engine.
I always kind of figured the boys at Walboro knew more about carbs than I do
Are you sure the idle stop screw isn't installed and preventing you from fully closing the throttle?
I've never had to cover the hole to either kill with throttle or choke the engine.
I always kind of figured the boys at Walboro knew more about carbs than I do
Yes. "Walboro" does know about carbs and tailors them for the majority of users that neither know a little about them or don't care. There are many things we do that are outside Walbro's original design intent to improve their utility for our use.
Sincerely, richard
#15
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: TimBle
Is this a good practise though. a failed throttle servo and with the throttle retur spring removed means the gasser is going to be flying for a long time.
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
Some people do not use them on the small gassers. They shut the engine down just like on a glow engine.
For the record, why would someone remove the throttle return spring? Those that do so only illustrate how little they know about servo torque, electrical consumption at the servo, the tiny amount of load imposed by a return spring, and what the return spring can and will do for the user. In other words, it displays a level of gas engine operational ignorance that an ignition kill is not going to overcome.
The throttle return spring is a safety device. It also establishes the correct "set" of the throttle plate in the carb venturi, minimizing or eliminating wear at the venturi. So it does not make sense to remove something that maintains the reliability of carb function. It makes even less sense to remove a built in safety device that generates no harm. If you keep the throttle return spring, and the carb linkage disconnects, the engine WILL shut itself down.
As for idle stop screws, most all Walbro carbs have a mount for one. The screw may or may not be installed when you receive the engine, depending on the dealer that sold the carb. Every Walbro carb starts out with one. Hobby dealers might remove them since they are not necessary for our use, but never depend on that. Once a gas engine is installed on a plane the throttle servo becomes the throttle stop. If the stop screw was not removed no amount of servo or linkage adjustment will ever be able to shut the engine down, and landings may be nigh on to impossible due to a high stop position of an idle stop screw. So look at the carb and remove it if it has one. Walbro/Tillotsen/Bing/Zama carbs are not made for model airplanes, they were made for tools. Once people learn that they will be on a path to understanding.
That little hole in the throttle plate? It's for bleed air when using the choke. No hole means straight fuel. Flooding becomes real easy in that state. Better to learn how to set up your throttle linkage and make use of the tools the carb provided for easier starting. If an engine won't draw fuel the hole in the throttle plate is not the problem. With the cheap Chinese engines the ring seal may be so bad the case won't develop enough pressure to provide a decent carb pulse. Then you have the multitude of plumbing issues that users create.
I'm not going to repeat my views on kill switches. Just remember, glow engines don't have them and after 40 years in this hobby that is still yet to be an issue.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Cape Town, SOUTH AFRICA
Posts: 2,744
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
RE: remote kill switches
ah more common ground. I have not removed my throttle lever return spring because its a safety device. It takes about 60gr of force to move it so its not going to trouble the 10kg digital metal gear servo I have on throttle.I am going to state that I see a need for a kill switch on a gasser though. Have spark will run... Glow engines need that often forgotten glow driver thing to get them running.TOM please have a look at the getting stared with gasser thread. Its there where the advise to remove the throttle return spring can be found.
#17
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: vertical grimmace
I have had good luck with this one. http://valleyviewrc.com/42-Percent%2...l%20Switch.htm
One of the things I like about these is you can test to see if you are getting spark by toggling the switch on your transmitter. You can hear the plug spark. Then you know for sure you have ignition.
A switch must be used otherwise this unit will drain your battery.
I have had good luck with this one. http://valleyviewrc.com/42-Percent%2...l%20Switch.htm
One of the things I like about these is you can test to see if you are getting spark by toggling the switch on your transmitter. You can hear the plug spark. Then you know for sure you have ignition.
A switch must be used otherwise this unit will drain your battery.
#18
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
...[That little hole in the throttle plate? It's for bleed air when using the choke. No hole means straight fuel. Flooding becomes real easy in that state. Better to learn how to set up your throttle linkage and make use of the tools the carb provided for easier starting. If an engine won't draw fuel the hole in the throttle plate is not the problem. ...
...[That little hole in the throttle plate? It's for bleed air when using the choke. No hole means straight fuel. Flooding becomes real easy in that state. Better to learn how to set up your throttle linkage and make use of the tools the carb provided for easier starting. If an engine won't draw fuel the hole in the throttle plate is not the problem. ...
or leaks at the insulator plate or even worn throttle shaft holes.
Sincerely, Richard
#19
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: remote kill switches
For $7 for the RC-EXL opti-kill you can't go wrong. I'd never fly my gassers without. I've seen more than one plane at our club loose a throttle servo &/or linkage. One guy had to fly around for 25 minutes at 1/3rd throttle setting until he ran out of gas and then could land her as he had no opti-kill. Imagine if you didn't have enough RX battery power on your last flight for that?!
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan
#20
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: Eganwp
For $7 for the RC-EXL opti-kill you can't go wrong. I'd never fly my gassers without. I've seen more than one plane at our club loose a throttle servo &/or linkage. One guy had to fly around for 25 minutes at 1/3rd throttle setting until he ran out of gas and then could land her as he had no opti-kill. Imagine if you didn't have enough RX battery power on your last flight for that?!
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan
For $7 for the RC-EXL opti-kill you can't go wrong. I'd never fly my gassers without. I've seen more than one plane at our club loose a throttle servo &/or linkage. One guy had to fly around for 25 minutes at 1/3rd throttle setting until he ran out of gas and then could land her as he had no opti-kill. Imagine if you didn't have enough RX battery power on your last flight for that?!
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan
#21
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: remote kill switches
Ah well, to each his own. I use a choke servo, works for me and hasn't let me down. Yup, you could easily counter with the rx battery running out before the motor quits if I was to loose both the throttle and the choke servo at the same time but I use lipo rx batteries and have yet to come even close to draining one of them in a days flying. Like I said, to each his own.
Oh, don't remove that little spring.
Oh, don't remove that little spring.
#22
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Somewhere,
DC
Posts: 9,825
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: remote kill switches
The spring keeps the throttle plate from vibrating sideways and wearing it out on both sides..It also wears out the carb body, sometimes enough that a new plate still won't seal off the bore...
#23
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: remote kill switches
ORIGINAL: Whistling Death
Where are you finding RCEXL opti-kill switches for $7.00?
ORIGINAL: Eganwp
For $7 for the RC-EXL opti-kill you can't go wrong. I'd never fly my gassers without. I've seen more than one plane at our club loose a throttle servo &/or linkage. One guy had to fly around for 25 minutes at 1/3rd throttle setting until he ran out of gas and then could land her as he had no opti-kill. Imagine if you didn't have enough RX battery power on your last flight for that?!
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan
For $7 for the RC-EXL opti-kill you can't go wrong. I'd never fly my gassers without. I've seen more than one plane at our club loose a throttle servo &/or linkage. One guy had to fly around for 25 minutes at 1/3rd throttle setting until he ran out of gas and then could land her as he had no opti-kill. Imagine if you didn't have enough RX battery power on your last flight for that?!
For $7 you can't go wrong. If you want a higher quality unit or fly on 72, go with the Smart-Fly opti. I've used both with great success.
Egan