deason

My Feedback: (1)

My mistake.... I added one too many "0". It was gapped .050.

My conclusion wat it was too wide and not burning hot enought to ignite the cylinder when idling.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Smash the stock plug with a hammer, dont even keep it for a spare, proper gap or not.

qspilotcmh

I am having a slightly different issue. I have 1.5 gallons through my DLE20 and it's running great but it is a little rough in the midrange. I re-tuned it and started leaning the LS needle slightly. I tried flying it and it was a touch better but still a little 4 stroke. I got the LS needle lean enough so it would barely take a throttle (between 5/8-3/4 open) and it still ran a little rough in the midrange.

Does the 20 just run rough at a certain RPM range?

Now the problem - When I leaned the LS I noticed that when coming from full throttle to idle it had perfect range. If I bumped the throttle quickly to 1/3-1/2 throw while taxing out it would not come back to idle. It would stay around 2500-3000 RPM. Is that a by product of the super lean condition? It was working perfect before I started leaning it to fix the midrange range.

I'm running 87 octane / STihl Ultra HP 32:1 / Zoar 17x6 approx 8400 RPM at peak HS needle (where I keep it). AW ProX260 60/90

Thanks

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

No.
But don't get too enamored about having no mid-range burbling. If you have a good idle, good transistion from low -to- WOT, and that WOT is also good,
then just learn to live with a little mid-range burbling. Sometimes we just can't get all of that out.


That's the starting point of where the odd advance curve the DLE20 has begins at, around 2200 rpm.
Too many have their idle set too high (close to that point).

Get your throttle linkage setup correctly, idle set to around 1750 rpm, and you'll be doing just fine.

Same as mine, which I've been flying since Oct of last year, with zero such problems.

qspilotcmh

Thanks I'm going to put the LS back when I fly next week. My idle is set for 1750 for landing and 2000 for idle-up while flying (While the motor was new I did not want to risk a flame-out down low). I don't think I could land this plane at 2200 RPM it is a floater..... My linkage is really good. Actually my servo arm is more closed than yours at idle. As you know the throttle curve on the 20 is touchy. I have the servo setup pretty good mechnically and I still have a throttle curve of 0-8-14-65-100.

captinjohn

NOT A REPLY....A IDEA !
Has anyone tried to get rid of the midrange burble by using a variable pitch prop of some sort? Seems like the right load on the prop at say at 1/4-1/2 throttle the burble may go away. Kinda like a chainsaw then your cutting wood. Not enough load...lots of burble...just load the bar by cutting a little does away with that burble right away. Just a idea. But it may work...who knows?

Best Regards Capt,n

a1pcfixer

My Feedback: (7)

Very true!

With the unique design of Vess props, my Vess 17 x 6 has nearly ZERO mid-range burbling.
With a Zoar 17 x 6 it's about the same. But an APC or a Bambula it becomes more noticable.

Easy test of your 'load the prop' is to get your eng burbling then point the nose upward and
listen to it diminish as a load is applied to the eng.

qspilotcmh

I have not flown my AW Prox260 for a while. Like in Post #28 occasionally the engine will not throttle completely down. This happens during landing, and while bumping the throttle for taxi. Most of the time it will settle back to the 1800 I have set, but occasionally I get an odd high idle. I have over 2 gallons through the engine and the high is tuned for peak and the low for a good transition. I have a slight midrange burble but nothing bad. I have tried leaning and richening the low end with little success. The odd thing is that it does not always stop at the higher idle. I have checked the reeds and carb.

This issue makes it very hard for me to land as the Prox260 is a floater at 2500 RPM.

I am using a Hitec HS85 throttle servo with double ball links. The linkage is very solid but i'm wondering if the servo is not centering??? The ProX260 calls for a HS65mg for the throttle but I went with the better HS85MG.

Any ideas???

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

My friend just received his DLE20 v2 and it does NOT have any lag getting to its idle setting! Guess they imporved the electronic module..... Here is his DLE 20 in a Top Flite P-40.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

I would try for a little lower idle speed first, then richer on the low speed. Keep messing with it. You sound like you're on the right track. It sounds like you're really close, but not quite there yet?

Regarding floating, if you're flying a forward CG that's not helping anything. Are you running a 17x6? If you're running a 16x8, they fly fine, but the 17x6 might help you slow quicker/easier.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

The 8.4v module doesn't have that step we've been tripping over.

ish22

My Feedback: (1)

hello . i just started to have this problem in the idle too fast last weekend . i was sunday all afternoon trying to tune it but no luck at all, so what was your conclusion in this case? THANKS.

qspilotcmh

Thanks for the feedback

When I started to install my new throttle servo I noticed that the throttle arm had a lot of lateral play. After removing the carb I saw the throttle butterfly lose in the carb. The c clip also came off causing a lot of slop.

I installed the new servo and a replacement carb. I still need to fine tune the needle settings but it is running much better.

ish22

My Feedback: (1)

So the problem is in the servo linkage ?

qspilotcmh

The new servo gave me better resolution as I had a mini servo on my AW ProX260 which I was not happy with. I built a small mount for a full size Align DS620 servo.

The high idle issue was caused by the throttle butterfly being loose. It was not closing completely at times causing the higher idle.

I would check your throttle arm for excessive play. If it looks loose take the carb off and look at the throttle butterfly.

As mentioned earlier it can be caused by tuning. If you had it running good before having this issue it could be the engine is broke in and needs tuned. Or you may have a different issue.

ish22

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for your reply. I will check the servo butterfly , this issue started during fly. My trottle cut would not respond and my trim was useless. So I hat to land the plane fast until I run of of field and that broke the landing gear and the prop o well I fixed that. I got to the field Sunday hopping everything was going to be alright. But no luck at all. While I was there I took the carb out and I cleaned put back on and this video is th result my H end works good. And the L end doesnot repond at all. Sell this is the video on su day!!http://youtu.be/IXRSmEMxC_g

ish22

My Feedback: (1)

(Trottle Buterfly) ups!!

ameyam

OP, try this- install the onboard tach. Then on the ground, run the engine for a minute or so at 50% or above, then come back to idle. Check the tacho. It may be 2000 odd rpm. Let it idle for 7-10 seconds. Then it wil suddenly drop rpm down to 1700 or so now. You dont have to see the tach, this can be heard to drop off after a few seconds od idle running. If this is what you are experiencing, you have the #4 ignition problem- thats the step ignition curve.

DLE #4 ignitions (look for that number on the ignition module) came with this weird step in the ignition that, when going to idle from some running of engine, first settled at 2000 rpm and then stepped down to 1700 after a bit. Typically, at idle in the landing approach, you will make the approach only to have your airplane lose height suddenly at this point. If you add throttle now, the engine will go to 3000 rpm or so and you will either go around or bounce your landing. Racked my brains a lot with this till I changed to a RCexcl ignition module that doesnt have the problem

Ameyam

ish22

My Feedback: (1)

thanks i will do that .. im using 5.1 V will that be an issue too ?