Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

3136,
I test run engines when asked to do so. Some guys don't want me too, they prefer to do that themselves. This is most certainly an option offered to my customers for all the various engines that www.ibcinyourc.com sells, PTE36R is no exception. If a customer wants me to pre-run/test an engine for them I most certainly will!

Your Quote “I would put a rcexel cap on it before you even try to start it.�

The spark plug cap is not the issue here, never was the issue, the issue was the resistor not the actual spark plug cap. It was the resistor that “was� the problem on the first version PTE ignition modules, this has been resolved on all the new engines that I get from PTE has the new design. This as I mention many times earlier has been resolved several months ago with a totally new module. There is NO need to change or put a rcexl spark plug cap. Please state actual facts before you mislead any more potential customers making a statement like this.

Sincerely

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Mike if they didnt start putting the crimp clamp on the shielding id suggest that all caps be checked at least.Heat shrink is not a good way to ensure the braid is making contact with the cap.Other wise im happy with mine.

Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

That's a good point, the heat shrink is around the base of the spark plug cap from the braided wire going into the cap. the shielding cap should have a crimp clamp or O-type ring that secures the cap tightly onto the actual spark plug.

3136

Mike, don't accuse me of trying to mislead customers.
I said to change the cap to a rcexel for a good reason.
If the factory clamped the lead properly it would not need to be done.
So Mike please get your facts right before strutting around like a rooster and trying to boss me around!!

Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

Whatever dude! When you make a ridiculous comment saying quote “don’t even start the engine�
I will tell you your misleading. Period
What are you some kinda watch dog? Give me a break!

There was no bossing around or strutting around like a rooster involved here!
Just stating the facts and nothing but the facts!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

aussiesteve

time for a

CAT POwer

My Feedback: (61)

Engine going in a ESM Stuka and a Sbach, Yak54 .... the DLE30 would have enough power  for all of them.
But I don't want to buy an engine that I have to be the beta tester.
 

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

I agree Cat but i think that the pte is worth it .Just clamp the shielding and your all set.

3136

Poor Mike, you got yourself all worked up again!
Gunny has had an issue with the new module, his had a loose sheild wire. Others have raised concerns about there being no clamp.
Catpower was asking for advice, so as a PTE owner I told him what I thought, yes I advised him and anyone else to put a rcexel cap kit on it.

If you have an early module you will replace the resistor and if you have a later PTE module you will still benefit as the rcexel has the dyke clamp.
They cost around $10 and take about 10 min to fit.

Your post no 353 actually admits the clamp would be better.
So why are you throwing a tanty telling everyone I am misleading them?
Perhaps if you work with PTE owners insted of fighting with them you may sell more engines.

Rocketman_

Maybe they get run at the factory and then shrink wrapped because when you unpack them it smells like they shipped you a box of gasoline. Also, the exhaust port is stained.

3136

Good choice, Stuka's are one of the coolest planes ever, I love mine

Ibcinyou!

My Feedback: (850)

You seem to be the only person getting your panties all bunched up! This is not the first run in with you that I have needed to respond. Sadly its probably not last, but it will be for me. You have turned this thread into a soap opera, and now taking cheap shots! Knock it off please! No one wants to read this crap.

aussiesteve

Anyone tried this?

[link=http://www.wikihow.com/Avoid-Panty-Lines]Ways to keep ones cool[/link]

3136

Mike you are really starting to annoy me.
All I have done is made someone aware of a potential problem and a $10 solution to it.
You agreed that a clamp would be better so what the hell is your problem.
OK PTE owners, have I been unreasonable or out of line?
Show of hands please?

3136

OK guys I have spoken to w8ye and he has decided to unlocked the thread.
I withdraw my call for a show of hands, that wouldn't have really been helpful anyway.
Since I started this thread back in August last year we have learned a lot about the engine.
The manufacturer has made welcome changes, hopefully they will start to clamp the spark lead.
I still think it's a great engine, but there are always things that can be tweaked.

Last night I made a small progress on the mounts, I'll try them as suggested first, then maybe with the double firewall.
I'll do a db test to measure any effect it has, this of course will depend on the resonance of the model, I wouldn't expect any difference in a heavy fibreglass warbird, but my light balsa frame may yeild a wothwhile result.
I then plan to test the result of the 3 blade biela 17x10 and then the mld 35 canister.

Regards Mark

3136

Hey Mighty9, it was a bit late to give the engine a good test, but it appears to be quite good.
I even used the same throttle setup and it responded just the same, I can't do a db test here as I have a paved courtyard and bloody brick walls.
I'll put the 2 blade back on, do a db reading, then another with the 3 blade.
Previous reding was 90db, hopefully this can be cut down.
Sadly the dog wasn't interested.
Regards Mark

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Looks good . I like that prop. Did those mounts help the slow speed vibrations?

3136

Hey Mighty9, no they didn't reduce the vibrations much at all.
I was very dissapointed with the result, same prop 94db, up by 4.
So the bloody mounts actually made it 4 db louder!! I wasn't expecting that, poo!!
Then I tried the biela 3 blade 17x10, the db reading was then 88db, so a drop of 6db.
That's great I thought, then in the air it was pretty good, a little less punch than the 19x8 falcon, but I wasn't happy with the tuning.
I think I can get it tuned better, but it was 35 c or 95 f and I had enough for one day.

My next project is a scratch built Se5a, I may need a bigger donk than a 36 though.

Regards Mark

3136

I forgot to say, I didn't do anyrpm readings as my tach went missing, but the rpm was considerably down with the 3 blade.

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Well thats rotten. Oh well you tried., Can you fit twin in that new bird?.I just bought a crrc55 a couple weeks ago and man i love it.

Rocketman_

3136,
Which muffler are you using for your prop & sound tests?

mighty9

My Feedback: (10)

Looks like he has the wolf muffler on it Rocket.

gunny11

My Feedback: (6)

Guys in our club are using Zenoah G 38's in their 1/4 scale Balsa USA SE5A's. So I think this PTE 36 engine would work very nice considering also that it can swing bigger diameter props too. Did I mention it is more powerful. And the scale sound too of a old "string bag" WWI fighter.

My friend is using a G38 in his 1/5 scale 23 lb PT-19. I will be using the PTE 36 in mine.

3136

Hi Mighty9, no the Se5a wouldn't fit a twin.

Rocketman, yes it is the muffler Wolf models supply with the engines he sells.
I have no idea what the stock muffler produces as I haven't even seen one.

Gunny11,  I can get a lightly used dle 55 for $100 so I'll go with that I think, that plane has a lot of ply, flying weight would be 11kg I think, the short ww1 birds always need the weight in the front.
I'll probably put a 36 in the BUSA 1/4 pup though, that will come in under 7 kg flying weight.
When I started putting the kit pup together, I was amazed at how flimsy the design was, but lots of guys fly them without a problem.
It's certainly a lot lighter than the Se5a but would not stand even a very light crash well.


Regards Mark