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  1. #451

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Mke, I am new to gas engines and really appreciate the ideas. As far as I can tell the butterfly it is seating properly. Don't know about the timing, the manual is very weak on info. Would I advance the timing or retard it. The engines starts well and runs great just would like to reduce the idle rpms.

    Again thanks

    Wayne

  2. #452

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?


    ORIGINAL: pulsar110

    I got one of these and love the power. Only issue Iv had is the welds on both pipes on the exhaust have failed. One fell off on the maiden flight. When I took the cowl off I can see the other is cracking around the weld and oil has seeped through. This is the only problem I have other than that it starts very easy and has tons of power.
    I have found the answer to the garbage stock muffler. The B&B Bennett built muffler for the Sacks/Dolmar 4.2 is a direct bolt on. These really are'nt mufflers, but manifolds. I welded one of the pipes shut to quiet it down. These are well built and will last. I have'nt run the engine yet as I'm trying to figure out how to remove the prop shaft to adapt a single bolt hub to the engine. When I accomplish this the aircraft will be ready for flight.
    KEEP UM FLYIN

  3. #453

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Hi Barry,
    To remove the hub you need to make a hub holder. It can be a piece of 10mm ply with the prop bolt pattern drilled in it and long enough one end to use as a handle. It also needs a center hole big enough for you to use a 13mm deep socket for the prop shaft/nut. Then you need a bearing puller if you intend to remove the hub. I think i have seen somewhere a single bolt prop adapter for a DLE30. The PTE36R bolt pattern is the same as the DLE30

    Bob

  4. #454
    apalsson's Avatar
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    ORIGINAL: bobbee015

    Hi Barry,
    To remove the hub you need to make a hub holder. It can be a piece of 10mm ply with the prop bolt pattern drilled in it and long enough one end to use as a handle. It also needs a center hole big enough for you to use a 13mm deep socket for the prop shaft/nut.
    Bob, a 10mm bolt replacing the spark plug will do just as well. Make sure it's long enough to reach the piston top and thus stop the engine from rotating. Stop the engine this way and undo the prop shaft with a socket. As for the puller, heat the hub with a torch and it will come off quite easily. Works on all small 2-stroke gassers

  5. #455

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    My problem is, I purchased a thin walled 13mm socket, but it does not fit inside the prop hub to reach the the propshaft. I ground down some of the diameter at the end of the socket and it still wnt fit inside. I'm wondering if there is a specialized tool specifically for this engine? I dont need to remove the hub itself, just the propshaft to machine the spinner extention off at the nut part itself to be able to install the single bolt hub.
    KEEP UM FLYIN

  6. #456

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Barry,

    Here is a primitive way to remove. You need vise gripes with at least one inch wide jaws, it might mare up the long prop shaft a little but you can easily correct that later. Heat up the shaft with a propane torch make sure to remove your hall sensor due to the obvious possibilities of melting it. DO not get super hot, use some wisdom. You want to heat up the locktite so it easily breaks loose without much effort.

    Hope this helps
    Mike Williams
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  7. #457

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    I've used nylon rope fed into the spark plug hole as a prop stop as well.

  8. #458

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Too much heat will kill the magnet be carefull

  9. #459

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Getting it out is'nt the problem, its reinstalling it once the spinner mount shaft is removed. My socket wont fit between the hub and the shaft. There must be a special tool that removes the propshaft.
    KEEP UM FLYIN

  10. #460

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?


    ORIGINAL: STUKA BARRY

    Getting it out is'nt the problem, its reinstalling it once the spinner mount shaft is removed. My socket wont fit between the hub and the shaft. There must be a special tool that removes the propshaft.
    Just me, but if I had a mind to, I'd make that tool? If that socket you were grinding on is a 6 point, I'd keep grinding until it fit. Then I'd have a tool!

  11. #461
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Doesn't the plug wrench that comes with the PTR-36R also fit the prop shaft hex?
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  12. #462
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    A question for those of you that have a PTE36R. Just received my copy....turning the engine over I could hear and feel some tight, almost grinding spots at near BDC. I also feel considerable slop in the conrod anywhere in the stroke. Did anybody else notice any slop or grinding?

    None of my other engines have any of these characteristics.

    TIA
    Regards,
    MattK
    (Rcmaster199@aol.com)

  13. #463
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Nope.
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  14. #464

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?


    ORIGINAL: MTK

    A question for those of you that have a PTE36R. Just received my copy....turning the engine over I could hear and feel some tight, almost grinding spots at near BDC. I also feel considerable slop in the conrod anywhere in the stroke. Did anybody else notice any slop or grinding?

    None of my other engines have any of these characteristics.

    TIA
    I wasn't happy with the way my latest engine (20 cc RCGF) felt when turning it over. Felt kinda like what you are describing, so I took it apart. Didn't find a thing, but after cleaning it all up and oiling it up during reassembly, it felt great afterward! So I fired it up - and there was no issue. Now, after 15 or 20 tanks of gas through it, it still feels fine. FWIW

  15. #465
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    ya sure have nothing but trouble from the first start up took for ever to get started #1Ign. box killed a 1500 ma. nimh in about 20 mins #2 then engine started cutting off for no reason looseing spark form idle or up to 3500 rpm. #3 then noticed fuel leaking between carb. and reed valve assy. #4 the only good thing i can say is at wide open throttle the motor did make good power. do yourself a favor and don't buy one get a DLE

  16. #466
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    rmoose,
    I had to send mine back to the dealer, will have to wait to seewhat happends now................
    Like yours one thing let to another.
    CAT Power

  17. #467
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?


    ORIGINAL: rmoose

    ya sure have nothing but trouble from the first start up took for ever to get started #1Ign. box killed a 1500 ma. nimh in about 20 mins #2 then engine started cutting off for no reason looseing spark form idle or up to 3500 rpm. #3 then noticed fuel leaking between carb. and reed valve assy. #4 the only good thing i can say is at wide open throttle the motor did make good power. do yourself a favor and don't buy one get a DLE
    Hi rmoose,a lot of these small gassers are hard to start for the first time unless you prime the carb, did you do that?

    The early ignitions had an issue with the resistor in the spark cap failing.
    Does your ignition box have a pte label on it or is it plain metal?

    With the leak, tighten the 2 bolts that hold the carb on, and check all the bolts as well. Also look for cracks in the insulator block.

    Just out of curiosity have you had a gasser before?
    Balsa USA brother #1
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    Mark

  18. #468
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?



    Update to all that EMailed me, PM'd me and I talked too,,,,,,, the Dealer has it since the 12 Apr12 so far no word........

    CAT Power

  19. #469
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Hey 3136 and Mighty9 ,

    Has Novayusa sent you any test results from the canister and header experiment that he promised to perform?

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  20. #470
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Hi Rocket,
    nah, not yet. He was going to test his canisters on a mt35, (which may have very different results to the 36 anyway.)

    Catpower, if you have a cracked reed cage and stuffed reeds you can just buy a part (even though you shouldn't have to)
    I got a spare for mine, it comes as a set (insulator block, reed cage with reeds fitted) I think it was $15 or $18
    I don't know where you got yours, but TBM and Ibcinyourc both sell them and have parts in the USA
    I think tbm offer warranty repairs even if you didn't buy it from them.
    Not that one dealer is better than another, just giving suggestions to solve a problem.
    If you really have a problem getting the part I'll send you my spare one, not sure what the postage from Australia would be though

    MTK, sorry I missed your post, no that sounds odd to me, mine didn't when new, and doesn't do that at all now.
    Have you pulled it apart to see what's wrong?
    Balsa USA brother #1
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  21. #471
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    3136, I replaced the reed valve and cage... it still did not run good .....fare from great....hard hard to get started, Idle up/down..... so it went back to the dealer for repair.
    You would not believe how many people contacted me with the same problems from this engine and problems withseveral dealers, just have to wait how all of this will play out.


    CAT Power

  22. #472
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Hey Cat, and any one else, I found mine likes to be choked even when warm and it starts fine.
    You may also need to clean up the reed cage so the reeds sit dead flat.
    What do you mean by idle up/down?
    Balsa USA brother #1
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    Sig brother 104
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    Mark

  23. #473

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    Is anyone using the wolf opto kill switch???
    http://www.wolfmodels.net/Wolf%20Opto%20Kill%20.html

    I have just received mine and can't get it to work, It is meant to be able to power the receiver and CDI from the one batt as it's optical isolation between the receiver and the CDI

    But plugging the receiver lead in to my rx and putting a batt on the batt plug will not power up my RX not light any of the leds

    Troy


  24. #474
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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?

    3136,
    I set the idle 1900 going to high rpm and back down 3 or 4 than its 1600 or 2200 set idle again and do it all over again...........
    never stay's the same.
    On my DLE's, CRRC's, Z'  i don't have these problems.

    CAT Power

  25. #475

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    RE: Has anyone tried the new PTE36R ?


    ORIGINAL: CAT POwer

    3136,
    I set the idle 1900 going to high rpm and back downÂ*3 or 4 than its 1600 or 2200 set idle again and do it all over again...........
    never stay's the same.
    On my DLE's, CRRC's, Z' Â*i don't have these problems.

    Sounds like you have a air leak somewhere. Check the tightness of the cylinder to case bolts...also make sure that there is a good seal there. I once ran across a problem like yours and found that the cylinder to case bolts were to long and was not letting the cylinder seal against the case...came from the factory that way. Engine was not a PTE.
    If you have to bend over more than once, it wasn't a good landing....


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